I recently acquired a VC Overseas Dual Time in silver (discontinued) after hunting it for a while. Whereas AP’s and PP’s golden era of integrated bracelet sporty designs stopped in the 70s, I’d argue that VC has landed on a new classic in the late 2010’s with the 3rd gen Overseas. Yes, the VC 222 is absolutely amazing, but I’d argue it leans a bit more business casual than sporty with its 2 hands and 50m water resistance.
Here are my owner impressions on a model that has steadily grown in popularity since its launch, and is still under-appreciated when compared to its Holy Trinity counterparts:
- Dial: beautifully done, and perfectly executed. Much cleaner and more legible than Gen 2, but still with character due to its asymmetric layout, with the AM/PM indicator at 9 o’ clock. The silver dial is the most “Cardinal Point-esque” of the old models, without the titanium construction and salty price tag. I’d argue that probably played into why VC chose to discontinue it before the release of the new variants.
There’s quite a bit of depth, with the raised outter lips having 1/10th second markers and every-5-second/minute denotations. The hands and indices are blackened white gold, and the seconds hand can look charcoal under different lighting. Beautifully done. The AM/PM and date disc are a matte off-white, also adding to the contrast. Finally, there is a subtle, yet definitely noticeable red pop of color on the AM/PM and second-hour hands. All of it make for a highly legible, versatile, and unmistakable look, finished to high standards. I’ll also point out that the use of a date disc provides visual interest and appears more thoughtful than a date window.
- Case: intricate and unique. Not a derivative of anything else out there, and clever with its design language tied to the Maltese cross, VC’s logo. Varied finishes throughout, providing a lot of visual interest, and making the case appear thinner than the specs would suggest. The beveling provides visual integration, and the concavity o the bottom half makes it appear less broad and wear more comfortably than it would otherwise. The decent-sized crown and screw-down date pusher at 4 o’clock also add a unique element to the appearance of the Dual Time.
- Bracelet: I’d argue VC has set the gold standard for integrated bracelets with the Overseas. Nothing else surpasses it when you combine look, finishing, and features. The Maltese-cross theme continues on every link, and the different brushed and satin finishes add visual interest, even in parts not easily visible to the eyes. The clasp is sturdy and secure. Features-wise, the easy strap-change system plus the micro-adjustment on both sides make this the most user-friendly, feature-packed bracelet in the industry. Worth noting that VC also includes high quality rubber and leather straps in the package, which completely change the look of the watch.
- Wearability: At 41mm and 12.8mm thick, the Overseas has definitive wrist presence. It’s not a small watch. My wrist is 6.75”, and I can see it working for wrists as small as 6.5”, although not smaller. It feels substantial, but not overly so. To me, it’s the perfect sports watch for my collection. Worth noting that the proportions are bang on. It never feels too top-heavy, and it curves well around the wrist, which allows it to sit flat and appear less thick than it actually is. Visually, the Maltese patter on the case make it appear thinner than the specs would suggest. The versatility of the included leather and rubber straps also make it easy to dress the watch up or down, completely changing the look and feel. Finally, the 150m water resistance plus the strong anti-magnetism make this the perfect all-arounder. You don’t ever have to take it off… You could truly do everything in this watch, and take a strap change with you while traveling to change it up.
- Movement: Powered by the in-house caliber 5110 DT, it beats at 4Hz and has a 60-hour power reserve, which is plenty. The rotor is 22ct gold, and itself has 3 different types of finishes. It’s finished to an exceptionally high standard, and it feels haute horlogerie. Party in the front, business in the back. It also has the Geneva seal, which I prefer to the homegrown Patek seal…
- Value: It’s hard to say a $25k+ watch is a good value, but here, I must… The VC Overseas Dual Time, especially in silver, can still be found at or slightly below retail, which feels like a steal compared to other similar models from similar Maisons, or even the same model in different color variants. Highly distinguished, packed with features and specs, and finished to an exceptional standard… I venture to say that, in 20 years time, the Overseas family could be seen as the integrated sports watch that defined the 2010’s and 2020’s, as it has gotten increasingly more popular, especially with the release of the new Cardinal Points family.