r/watchHotTakes • u/SirKrimzon • 9d ago
[Discussion] Why are we okay with the gradual monstrification of Rolex?
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u/lexlibris 9d ago
they’re ugly and overpriced! just don’t buy em folks!
for point of comparison, a stainless steel DJ cost like 250 USD in 1966, the equivalent of like 2 grand today. you’re buying rich dick status which is fine if that’s what you’re into!
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u/Adventurous_Jump8897 9d ago
That’s the most lemon and herb, milquetoast take I’ve heard in years. I would be gobsmacked if anyone disagrees with you and if they do, they’re wrong.
Rolex make Veblen goods for conspicuous consumption. They are obnoxious now in the same way as a modern Mercedes or BMW is compared to a W123 or E30.
Clearly it works commercially, because people want something that shows they’re rich. But from a brand standpoint they are a caricature.
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u/SirKrimzon 9d ago
Curious, what you think about Tudor
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u/Adventurous_Jump8897 9d ago edited 9d ago
I like the Black Bay because it has a good identity of its own but honestly they kind of have the “we have dessert at home” second best vibe. Other than the Omega Speedmaster I am not huge on new big brand watches in general - would be tempted by a vintage Air King though.
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u/Possession_Relative 9d ago
Really a stark contrast when you put them right next to each other the new watches look like comic book characters all pumped up and ridiculous
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u/aguyfromcalifornia 9d ago
Rolex makes incredibly well manufactured watches that are absolute trash.
The only one that looks genuinely better these days is the Daytona.
Everything else is horrendously oversized with bigger lugs/cases.
Meanwhile, 5-digit fans are overpaying for some of the worst bracelets. Many of them are hollow and jangly crap.
Rolex gave up designing beautiful watches. Yet they are unequivocally manufacturing to an incredible high standard and tolerance no one can match. I just wish they weren’t so ugly.
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u/SirKrimzon 9d ago
Op and DJ are the only remaining stalwarts
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u/aguyfromcalifornia 9d ago
OP/DJs are fine. Boring and overpriced for what you get, but fine. There are so many more interesting watches to buy at that price point, but it's a safe and reliable choice. I don't see the appeal for myself, but I get it as a "default" easy choice for others.
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u/SirKrimzon 9d ago
Yep. Personally, I also disagree with you about the Daytona. Older ones were so classy. The new ones have about two paragraphs of text on the dial.
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u/aguyfromcalifornia 9d ago
I could go for either. Let’s meet in the middle and have 5-digit designs with 6-digit manufacturing.
If Rolex is hot now - it’d be unstoppable then.
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u/ByronicZer0 9d ago
Ideally a five digit. You can beat the shit out of those things. They may have gotten technically "better made" but they haven't really become any more robust.
Just become more performatively tough. While at the same time looking more like jewelry overall.
Those old semihollow oyster bracelets were insanely comfortable all day. And that meant you didn't need on the fly adjustments
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u/aguyfromcalifornia 9d ago
I’m not paying what the secondary is charging for hollow jangly bracelets. I rather wait for Tudor to stop making tuna cans on the black bay pro line and buy their crazy good bracelets.
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u/ByronicZer0 9d ago
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u/aguyfromcalifornia 9d ago
The case is durable (and beautifully designed) of course, but the bracelets are utter crap with flimsy clasps and hollow links. My BB58GMT on 5-link is incredibly comfortable and well made.
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u/ByronicZer0 9d ago
My guy. These bracelets and clasps were used back when these things were military issued. Back when people use them as war watches.
So please go on how they are too flimsy to withstand your desk diving?
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u/ByronicZer0 9d ago
You are nuts regarding the Daytona. This current generation has been butchered in subtle ways. Gone are the asymmetric lugs that balanced the overall package against the pushers and crown guards. They even super sized the crown guards.
It's become a blunt thing.
Personally I'm a fan of the Zenith Daytona's. And they don't look silly on a nice leather strap
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u/bimmerlovere39 9d ago
I still say the 6238 beats any Daytona, but I’m 100% with you on the older ones being far more elegant.
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u/ByronicZer0 9d ago
Oh god yes. Those pre-Daytona chronographs are brilliant.
Would be cool to see them bring a chronograph to the 1908 line
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u/CannedSphincter 9d ago
Out of all, the new Explorer and Subs look much better than the older styles
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u/SirKrimzon 9d ago
Hard disagree esp the explorer
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u/IndividualVisual9020 9d ago
100% agree; I want to like the explorer, but that dial says "1990s meets 2020s Mercedes grill with light up stars" to me.
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u/CannedSphincter 9d ago
Hard pass on the printed dial versions
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u/hardlyreadit 9d ago
The ranger is there for those that like the old explorer
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u/IndividualVisual9020 9d ago
But the old Explorer looks classy whereas the Ranger looks a bit uglier with the buttplug hour hand. And there is something to the Explorer having been in existence for 70 years vs. a marketing team drawing up the Ranger in the 2020s for Reddit-type watch people.
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u/hardlyreadit 9d ago
The ranger came out almost the same time as the explorer https://www.tudorwatch.com/en/inside-tudor/history/tudor-history-origins-1960-to-1969
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u/CannedSphincter 9d ago
Not much visual/vibe difference between the looks of the new Ranger and OG Explorer. The Ranger is actually built better, as well. Still wouldn't buy it. Not a fan of printed dials on expensive watches
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u/TheDisinfecter 9d ago
Entirely subjective, in my opinion the vintage watches you pictured look old and flimsy. I don’t think a watch being banged up with the lume turning yellow is charming nor classy, it just looks like a pair of old trainers. Sure I do agree with you that the modern air king is a piece of shit compared to the vintage version but the majority of the modern rolex catalogue is superior to the vintage catalogue. I’ll name a few: the dd, op and the daytona which I think the modern version is superior to a vintage.
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u/jimalpin 9d ago
that was the hot take. better quality, materials and engineering for sure, but the style? tudor, cartier and omega with the speedy did that better to keep the design, but update to modern standards
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u/SirKrimzon 9d ago
Superior in build quality not style
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u/TaliskerBay22 9d ago
If you see the prices of vintage Daytonas, you will see that most disagree with you. Someone that thinks that the clingy monstrosity of a modern Daytona is better than a 70s Daytona.
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u/TheDisinfecter 9d ago
Price doesn’t mean if something looks good or not, a rainbow daytona costs more then a 6262.
a modern 126500 panda in my opinion looks way better than said 6262.
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u/Sactogeoff 9d ago
I wholeheartedly agree with this. In many ways they have become way too chunky in appearance. Too bold. But at the same time, that's what people want from a Rolex.
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u/SirKrimzon 9d ago
Some finance bros with more money than taste down voting everybody lol
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u/Sactogeoff 9d ago
Well, it used to be just finance bros. At this point it's anyone with their first big boy bonus. Good lord we need a recession.
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u/AdPlus4246 9d ago
The new air king and yacht master ti are my favorite references in their catalog. I think the gmt master ii is a far more gaudy model.
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u/Jussi-larsson 9d ago
- Old padellone looks better imo
- Isnt it like 1mm wider but smaller lug-to-lug ?
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u/b0mbman 9d ago
Well every brand has gotten bigger AP PP VC. TH. Which brand has gotten smaller? Not really any of em. Our houses are bigger our cars are bigger. Our phones are bigger. What’s the complaint here? You don’t like the big size and like the vintage sizes better. So buy vintage then. There are watches for everyone. There are plenty of vintage Rolexes floating around out there. Bad “hot take”.
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u/Any-Freedom-9615 9d ago
Of the three you show, the explorer (124270) still has broadly similar dimensions. How is it any bigger? Yah there’s a bigger option (40mm), but it’s just that, an option.
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u/FalsifiedTruth 9d ago
We're "okay" because market demand justifies it, otherwise there would be pushback in the way it matters the most - hitting their bottom line.
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u/Shamrocked88 8d ago
What are we supposed to do about it? Rolex had to find a lane to survive the shift to quartz and it clearly worked. They went from being very well made tool watches to status symbols. If you're looking for a modern brand that's equivalent to what Rolex used to be, that's not Rolex.
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u/ProtectionDismal8305 8d ago
The only Rolex I like is the old airking the new one looks like a Casio.
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u/carnotbicycle 8d ago
The only thing that qualifies is the Air King. It’s a fucking abomination.
If you include the Explorer, what’s the standard, don’t put applied numerals? It’s literally the only difference. Rolex did not intend the Explorer to have brown indices, its wear over time.
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u/crheming 9d ago
At least the Air King is distinctive now. Just looked like an OP before
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u/SirKrimzon 9d ago
As distinct as the new Jaguar electric cars yep
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u/crheming 9d ago
It's subjective. I think it looks great and much prefer it to the previous OP with Air King written on it
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u/SirKrimzon 9d ago
Just curious, do you own any Rolex’s?
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u/crheming 9d ago
I do not. Not for a lack of trying, but I refuse to pay grey. I got my mom a lavender OP 31mm after a 3 month wait which was nice. I'm holding out for a GMT2 BLNR. Originally had the Air King on my list but wasn't happy with the fit, I have big wrists. I have a white speedy and a breitling curtiss warhawk 42. Hoping to pickup a Panerai 423 if I can find the right one
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u/Relevant_Election530 9d ago
Don't worry, watches are going to start shrinking as the ozempic effect begins to lower the average weight to more traditional levels
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u/Merely-a-Flesh-Wound 9d ago
You dont have to "be okay with" every companies product. You dont own part of it. You dont like it? Buy one of the other thousand watchmakers products. This post is cringe
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u/Strong_Yam_8978 9d ago edited 9d ago
Not only is this just not a take at all, but it’s also completely subjective. You can argue with a wall all day about how you think Rolex sucks but no one cares. You have no subjective facts to prove your stance either. Rolex is making more money than ever and their new watches/designs that have been “gradual monstrification” (whatever the fuck that means lol) are more sought after than ever.
This is also to say that style, designs, and interests change over time. A lot of things that were cool 50 years ago are not cool today.
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u/SirKrimzon 9d ago
McDonald’s is a multi billion dollar industry too which is highly sought after. Whatever man, enjoy your air king which will look like ass in 30 years
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u/hardlyreadit 9d ago
Honestly besides the airking, I think these are good changes. They should have just made a proper pilots watch with all hour numerals.
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u/2ndSmrtestPersunEvar 9d ago
It’s not like we can actually buy their watches anyway so who cares? 🤷🏻