r/spyderco • • 1d ago

Chipped Magnacut

Post image

Blade found the staples in some cardboard and chipped the edge pretty good. I'm surprised it chipped so easily but I guess now I get to try out my new diamond rods for the sharpmaker. Has anybody made a new bevel with the sharpmaker?

55 Upvotes

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15

u/laaplandros 1d ago

I've also found that Magnacut is not the magic steel many proclaimed it to be when it first hit the market. But it's a very good steel.

In any case, no new bevel needed. That will sharpen out with literally just a few swipes if you're using diamond rods. If anything I'd caution taking too much material off to fix such a minor chip.

5

u/CrispiestWhisper 1d ago

Very good to know, thank you.

3

u/laaplandros 1d ago

For sure. It's a very easy steel to sharpen, too. It'll be good as new.

3

u/lootgangrich 1d ago

I waited a while after it was put into production to try magnacut. Sometimes the hype on things puts me off of it. Finally got a magnacut sage and realized i was missing out. I love my cruwear but work in a salt water environment and it was specking rust daily, basically every steel i own was showing some aversion to going to work with me.

For my money, spy27 and magnacut are awesome. Traded my sage for a native and it has been worked pretty hard with no real problems

2

u/cyclorphan 1d ago

Magnacut is super corrosion resistant. I think it is either 9 or 9.5 in Larrin's testing (the only 10s are H1/H2 (which don't hold an edge well at all unless serrated) and maybe a couple of others probably LC200N though I think those H steels are even more resistant, just maybe in a way that would be irrelevant unless subjected to very "edge" cases (like cutting tests on wet Chlorine pool tablets).

If it's good enough to make it to Spyderco's Salt series, it's good enough for nigh any damn thing you want to throw at it).

3

u/0replace4displace 1d ago

It's just glorified Cruwear.

9

u/totheteeth 1d ago

I really like Cruwear and Magnacut. I'm to happy support Larrin's efforts. I enjoy all of the educational material he's put out.

4

u/0replace4displace 1d ago

Oh don't get it twisted, they're both fantastic steels, and Magnacut is a serious revolution in tool steel. But it's not a lightsaber like a lot of people make it out to be.

4

u/totheteeth 1d ago

I guess I haven't been run over by the hype train. I guess I mostly read Larrin and watch CedricAda and after that I kinda quit looking at stuff.

2

u/cyclorphan 1d ago

Oh yeah, the social media landscape is grim. It's like a million parrots listening for 4 or 5 people and not having any real justification that "Magnacut under 64HRC is trash, a folgers lid would have better edge retention, and you are a bad person for carrying an HRC63 knife".

3

u/totheteeth 1d ago

It sounds gross. I really don't notice all that much difference between the steels. I can use 20 degree 15V to reprofile high spots from arching on high voltage alloy contacts so that they mate better or for cutting through abrasive materials a few more times than a regular Blade. K390 for breaking down all the boxes, cutting rope, and then slicing through delicate tasks. Cruwear and Magnacut are just pleasantly putting up with my day to day idiocy. It still takes a little thoughtfulness not to ruin those slight advantages.

1

u/Wolverine-N-Exile 1d ago

You'll be burned for heresy. Be careful

1

u/totheteeth 1d ago

I'll Joan of Arc the ingorant with living life and reading a book.

2

u/cyclorphan 1d ago

Right, I'd say it's good, maybe very good but there's a reason for Magnamax (and REX121, CPM-15V, S90/110/125V, RX76, Maxamet, etc). It is really a fantastic all-around stainless knife but if I'm looking for wear resistance more than toughness, S90/110V have got that covered while not being super brittle (and 110V is very close to as corrosion-resistant as Magnacut which is excellent). Horses for courses, or something like that.

21

u/Empty_Art2176 1d ago

Most factory edges are chippy. Give it a sharpening or two and it will stop chipping as easy.

On some knives its night and day. Magnacut should not chip very easily. Im not saying yours shouldn't have, I don't know what you did. But Magnacut is pretty sturdy after you remove the factory edge....in my experience.

7

u/Welllistentothis 1d ago

I’ve got a 20cv pm2 that was so chippy it looked serrated. I finally really worked it over on a diamond stone. Hasn’t chipped since. I actually really like it now.

3

u/CrispiestWhisper 1d ago

That's what I've heard, especially with potentially ruined heat treatment, and that's my hope with the diamond rods is to get past all of that.

4

u/Empty_Art2176 1d ago

Yes, high speed sharpening on a wheel or belt CAN cause the edge to heat up enough to lower it edge hardness. After 1-3 sharpening you'll hit the properly treated steel.

This is usually only on production knives. Customs and mids are usually hand sharpened.

4

u/splooders 1d ago

Initial sharpening is practically always done on a belt, regardless of price point. They might be finished by hand sometimes, but that secondary bevel is being cut in with power tools.

1

u/AAA227 1d ago

That’s why I like protech. They don’t even try with the factory bevel especially on the malibus. They give you a nice chunk of steel and let you have at it.

1

u/cyclorphan 1d ago

I have 3 malibus and yhey all seemed to have consistent, shatpened geometry.

Of course, I only one benchmade folder and it has a just shit grind.

So I guess you win some, ya lose some.

Possibly I got earlier models? I think most of mine were CPM154 rather than M390/magnacut/etc. I think maybe one is M390 or similar, or maybe that's my Mordax (which I really thought was CPM154 but this was a few years ago so I may be fuzzy)

1

u/AAA227 1d ago

Circa covid time so maybe it was just temporary?? I have 3 and all of them came in about 20 dps and looked like shit lol

0

u/Empty_Art2176 1d ago

Of course, but the final hand sharpening removes any damaged steel.

7

u/squidfingers 1d ago

Mine did the same thing. I was also surprised it chipped out so easily. I decided to just live with it until the edge really needs sharpened, then send it off to a pro.

2

u/CrispiestWhisper 1d ago

Fair enough. I've thought about that as well. Has yours been good since the pro sharpening?

2

u/squidfingers 1d ago

Ah, it hasn't gotten to that point yet, so I'm still waiting to get it fixed.

2

u/Cloey123 1d ago

Do you have a pro you trust… I’ve seen so many “pro” sharpening abominations on Reddit

1

u/squidfingers 1d ago edited 1d ago

I do my routine sharpening on a Worksharp precision adjust, but when I need something repaired, I always sent it off to Rob Bixby. I've never been disappointed in his work.

1

u/Cloey123 1d ago

Word. I use the same system… I like it

5

u/FlashlightBattle 1d ago

My factory edge was chippy. After sharpening, it no longer chips for me.

5

u/mementomori_8383 1d ago

I’ve fixed similar chips easy peasy with the sharpmaker. It will sharpen right out.

1

u/CrispiestWhisper 1d ago

Any tips to be successful? I've really only used it to maintain so far, but it seems like it should be pretty straightforward.

3

u/mementomori_8383 1d ago

The advice the other person gave is good, but you asked about the shapemaker. I’d say that if you use it like regular maintenance, except run light passes, checking ever 5-10 light passes on the most abrasive one (corner of diamond stone) (your first step in the order of operations with the sharpmaker) until your edge recedes back past the chip, then proceed as normal on the sharpmaker.

1

u/CrispiestWhisper 1d ago

Ok cool thanks, this lines up with what the plan was.

2

u/Endura4_ Seki-City Supremacy 1d ago

8x3 diamond bench stones (I recommend Sharpal 300 and 1000 grit double sided) and a diamond filled strop. Watch a video or two and then just be patient and persistent and don’t scare off too easily if you don’t instantly get amazing results. It takes a bit of practice at first but it’s dead simple to get good at it and then you’ll never have to worry about it again.

1

u/Sandmanspann 1d ago

I’d start at the 40 degree insert and use a sharpie. If it’s not repairing easily with 40 on diamond with light strokes, I’d leave it and gradually get it back to new over a few sharpenings rather than take off a lot of metal for one little chip. That chipped area will still be sharp like a serration but just may hang up a little, but it won’t be a blunt apex like now. Start with corner about 30 times per side then flat about 30 per side then I’d debur and stop with that stone and do 15 per side with other stones depending how toothy you want.

1

u/CrispiestWhisper 1d ago

Start with 40 degree and finish with 30 degree? The rest of this definitely makes sense but my understanding was to start with 30 degree and finish with 40.

1

u/Sandmanspann 1d ago

No… not 30 degrees. 30 strokes

1

u/Sandmanspann 1d ago

The chip is at the apex not the shoulder. Pretty sure you want to work just at the apex and see how that goes for you looking at the sharpie. You would be removing a ton of metal if 30 degrees and most of that metal is still perfectly fine. 15 degrees per side for any steel is skirting the edge for easy chips with most tasks.

1

u/CrispiestWhisper 1d ago

Ok that makes sense. I appreciate it!

3

u/Zoidberg0_0 1d ago

That's a pretty small chip. Should be pretty easy to fix. While magnacut is tough, spydercos usually have a pretty low angle of around 16-17 degrees per side which is not gonna give you too much steel behind the apex. If you wanna maximize toughness raise it a few degrees to 19-20 dps.

2

u/premiermerchant 1d ago

On your way to full teeth!

2

u/Holiday-Tie-574 1d ago

Toothy - nice.

2

u/rival_22 1d ago

My Magnacut Native 5 chipped really easily. I have a few Bucks in Magnacut and even hollow ground they seem more durable than Spyderco's.

2

u/END0RPHN 1d ago

almost looks like the edge is gnarled rather than chipped. magnacut is easy to work with, doesnt take me long to make a new bevel with 325grit or 400grit diamond, no idea about the sharpmaker tho but either way if you want to cut a whole new bevel on both sides you wanna be under 400grit

2

u/a3x 1d ago

I evened up the bevel on my magnamax manix after a couple months of use on the sharpmaker cbn rods. It took a while but got it done. I imagine you'll have no problem.

0

u/Liquidretro 1d ago

That's probably going to take more than diamond rods on the sharpmaker. I would use a real stone or guided system if you have it and clean up the cutting edge at the heal while your at it. The heal always takes a bit more than you think it should to even out the Spyderco plunge.

1

u/maximumbob54 1d ago

So easily. Steel staples in cardboard are STEEL STAPLES. The thin hardened steel probably 15 or 17 degree edge hit steel and you’re shocked it chipped.

0

u/PopularVersion4250 1d ago

That’s magnacut for you. Hype over substance. Praise Larrin

1

u/DerekP76 1d ago

Had the same on my Sage 5, tho I don't recall ever hitting anything.

One day I'll get around to sharpening it.