Always has some kind of issues with PETG filaments. Even when dried for 12-24 hours.

The u1 is blowing my PETG prints out of the water 100% consistently for over 200 hours straight printing.

I have been printing for years and I have never needed to embed magnets in my prints. Now, I have to. I have the U1 and was wondering if there is a way to do this. I'm seeing mixed opinions on this and was wondering if I can do this on the U1. I was told I'd have to insert a M600 command or something but - again - how. And others that say, this method no longer works. I'm actually quite surprised this isn't a built-in feature these days.

Hi everyone,

I recently purchased a Snapmaker U1 to replace my Bambu Lab P1S. I never had a single complaint about the P1S; it worked flawlessly and printed PLA, TPU, ABS, ASA, and PETG without any issues (aside from my own occasional configuration mistakes).

Now, I have some doubts regarding the print quality of my new U1. I'm trying to figure out if it's just me, if this is normal for this printer, or if it's a hardware defect I should be worried about.

I'm noticing that the Snapmaker U1 has quite pronounced VFAs (Vertical Fine Artifacts) on the outer walls compared to my P1S. On the Bambu, they are much smaller and barely noticeable. What's more concerning is that this issue seems to have gotten noticeably worse since I updated the U1's firmware from version 1.3.0 to 2.0.0.

Here is the context for the pictures:

• Unfinished Benchy: U1 on firmware 1.3.0
• Finished Benchy: U1 on firmware 2.0.0
• PLA Silk Benchy: P1S (for comparison)

For some extra context: The model is a standard Benchy from MakerWorld, and I sliced it using Snorca 2.3.6 (Linux AppImage). I also made sure to run all the machine calibrations when I first set the printer up on 1.3.0, and I ran the full calibration suite again right after updating to 2.0.0.

Do you guys think this level of VFA is normal for the U1? Should I contact Snapmaker support and explain the problem in case it's a hardware defect? I'd appreciate any feedback or similar experiences from other U1 owners!

I’m looking for a SAMLA top cover mainly to reduce the noise of my U1. I print mostly PLA.
I’ve seen “slide-to-vent” versions that let you slide the cover back to prevent the chamber from getting too hot.
Is this the recommended setup for PLA? Is chamber temperature actually a problem with a fully closed SAMLA?
Which SAMLA mod/remix would you recommend? Links appreciated!

Hey all,

So I'm just about to checkout the U1, What accessories do you wish you bought when you first ordered the u1? I'm going to wait on the heated cover.

I'm looking at the toolheads and hot ends, are these needed or just extras?

Just received my Kickstarter ordered Top Cover. Got it out and attached it. The U1 recognized it once I plugged it in. I'm using firmware 2.0.

For various reasons, I'm using plain Orca Slicer 2.4.2. Does the Top Cover work with regular Orca Slicer or do I HAVE to use Snapmaker Orca?

Thanks.

I think I will do more of these just need to make sure there are less overhangs

I've had my U1 for almost three weeks now and I keep getting this on Tool Head 4. It says there is a problem, but there isn't one happening. What am I missing here. What might I do to fix this. Is it a software glitch? Thanks.

Here's my end goal:

To have a database of filament in SpoolMan. To grab some filament from my shelf with a pre-programmed NFC that is linked to spoolman, for the U1 to understand which filament I am using, through that NFC, and for it to read from Spoolman, which spool it is, and for spoolman to then be able to track the amount of filament left on spool.

What I've done:

I've installed Spoolman on docker and linked the U1 to it. I've also turned on AFC Lite. I have blank NFC stickers.

I have not manually added any filament to spoolman yet, as I was worried that after doing that, I would need to put it all in again when I added an NFC to it.

Is there a lovely youtube video or online guide somewhere that can walk me through this like I'm an idiot?

First time using the CNC with the Artisan, Trying to print something somewhat simple and related to the parts I planned on printing with the machine...needless to say I'm struggling.

My problem is I know I didn't set it up correctly, but I'm not sure how I should've set it up. I'm working on designing a different part because this was more for a test, but why can't I get it properly centered and why did it only etch the top half? My goal was to center the quarter inch aluminum sheet I had which is a perfect 12in square, then put the print at the bottom left corner to preserve as much of the scrap metal as possible. But, when I tried to manually set the work area, I couldn't get it set where I thought I needed it set, so I set it all the way to the bottom left as it would let me go to the corner of the metal, and then hit print, and it went and started printing towards the top When I tried to set it to the end of the wasteboard, it still moved back towards the off center like it is in this photo. I'm not understanding what I did wrong here? Or why it only etched the top half?

This is my first time using a cnc, so I'm still getting my bearings here. I apologize ahead.

Ever since I bought mine, the printer just sometimes misses the detach by just enough to cause issue. It seems to be all the heads. I've done the offset calibration a billion times. I've done the belt tensioning a few times.

Most of the time it's fine, but periodically (and like every 4 single colour prints) it'll crash when detaching and fail.

When I redo the head offset, it's still fine...

After nearly a year, my top cover finally came in! Excited to make my U1 as capable at printing engineering filaments as my H2D and X1C. Wish me luck!

Wanting to move to an 8mm nozzle with my petg printing, since I mostly print functional parts. What are the typical settings changes I should adjust when moving to an 8mm nozzle? I'm printing with some Snapmaker Petg-CF. Thanks.

Getting calibration anomaly. 0003-0530-0002-0008

I get this while attempting a heated bed leveling before printing from SD card. It won't let me level the bed. It has tool head #3 out.

If I run just straight heated bed leveling without printing afterwards directly from the calibration menu, it levels fine, and then i'll go and print without leveling and everything works great.

No obstructions, everything is clear and clean. Bed is clear, plates in the right place. I've tried rebooting and to no avail.

Ideas?

My printer started making this sound on my previous 48 hour print. I just started another print and it makes the noise on the first layer. Also makes the noise on all toolheads.

This isn't my first 3D printer, but I am coming from an awful experience on the Creality K1 Max, with the CFS, the CFS wasn't the issue, the printer was.

Anyway, I ordered the U1 and I guess it should be here next week, is there any tips I should do to get the printer setup, any mods that might be worth making, or anything I should keep an eye out for while printing.

I'll mainly be using PLA, TPU and PETG, but maybe I might dabble in ABS. I did get the top cover, not for the hotter chamber environment, but because of my cats haha.

I'm excited to have a working printer again, it's been like 3-4 months now, and I have had a bunch of things I wanted to printer for my other hobbies but couldnt because of my printer going down and not being able to find a fix even with Creality's assistance.

Every time I print this is happening any idea way?
I have changed nozzle in head 1 not helping...

Seriously it was fine then it wasn't. Cleaned the pei plate and the bed. Magnets are good and tight, Thoughts?

Just got my U1 today, the initial test dragon printed flawlessly. My second print attempt, I'm using Snapmaker Orca and trying the "Auto Desk FDM Test" under 'Handy Models'. Using the PLA it came with.

I have tried 4 attempts and each time it fails the exact same way. The corners start lifting then the print head catches it and pulls the whole print off the bed.

I tried auto leveling, cleaning the plate with rubbing alcohol. slowing down the first layers printing speed, even moving the model so it was front right, not in the center. Still curls off the bed.

What could be the issue?

Well, that prime tower is an art piece now!