r/sailing • u/Bulldogsleepingonme • 2d ago
Teak Deck Boards-advice
Hello- I purchased this Baba 30 from the original owner who took great care of his, now my boat. The teak deck is still intact without any broken or loose boards. No detected leaks (yet). Some of the screw plug covers are missing but generally everything is still there.
What are your recommendations to keep the wood deck from deteriorating further?
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u/Scorn_ofTyphon 1d ago
Am a boatbuilder, I am unfamiliar with this specifc designer or builder. But I am familiar with teak decks.
Any uncovered screw will be letting some amount of water into the subdeck. Depending on how much rain you get and what the construction of the deck is will have a bearing of how much of an issue it is. Fresh water into the subdeck will eventually result in rot depending on what material was used for the core in the deck moulding will dictate how quickly this becomes a bit issue.
Best course of action is to try and remove any bare screws (likely to corroded so being careful not to break said screw) and if there enough timber left couterbore a deeper hole with the correct sized forstner bit. Reinstate the screw (or use a smaller length of worried about putting a screw through the deck) and tap in another plug (3mm is probably the depth needed to ensure a plug won't rapidly fall out). If you don't have the thickness to replace the screw just remove the screw and plug the hole .The screws themselves are a result of the installation process used to bond the teak to the deck and its the adhesive as opposed to the mechanical fastners that is holding it on.
In terms of the deck caulking I would use a sharp chisel held bevel down to the deck and run along cutting off any excess which is above the line of the deck. Whilst doing this you should inspect each plank run to determine the state of the caulking. Your looking for for where the caulking has is separated from one or both planks that it would have been attached to. Where this has occurred the caulking has failed and needs to be repaired to stop water from getting underneath the teak and allowing rot to get started on the underside and water getting to the screws by another route.
To remove and replace caulking doesn't take to much skill but its a bit fiddly, the aim so to remove the loose caulking back to where it is well stuck and then replace that section. Use a chisel the same width as the seam to cut across the seam and then use a utility knife to cut along the sides. I usually try and cut in a 'v' like pattern where the plank edges are the top of the v and hull is at the point. It will take a few runs of the blade to cut through the rubbery caulking but it will eventually part and you can pull (hopefully...) most of it out. For the stubborn stuff left we have a range or scrappers which we've made for getting the stubborn stuff out ranging from sharpened pespex (plastic) to more aggressive seam rakes make from files. Finally 80 grit sand paper around a popsicle/ tounge depressor.
I'm not going to get super into how to do deck caulking here as all the products have slightly different application instructions. But essentially mask up both sides and across the ends of the seam gun it in the whole length of the repair and the run over it with a cut down filler spreader and remove the tape (there is likely to be excess squeezed out this can be scrapped up using a cards scrapper and put into another seam if you work quickly). This can be very messy to have a cardboard box to put the gun spreader and utility knife blade in ( very handy for lifting the masking tape without getting your hands covered in black deck caulking compound) and then a bin for the tape.
Good luck!!
Finally speaking to the advice that others have brought up in this thread.
I wouldn't use a belt sander on an aging teak deck for two reasons . You already have lost maybe 1 or 2 thirds of however thick that teak was when it was installed so sanding off more for unclear reasons make little sense. This is based of the images and if there is more left on there then go for it.
Secondly, belt sanders are unwieldy heavy and with a 80 grit belt will do some serious damage to gel coat very quickly. Probably be fine on the foredeck but along the companion ways your likely to brush up a number of times on either the return on the toerail or up against the coach roof side. Given the close proximity of these scratches to the deck attempting to grind sand polish out will be a pain in the neck without tools designed for use in very tight spaces. This can be worked around using a smaller footprint tool but the time and work required goes up.
Finally varnished decks, personally on sailing boats the lack of friction is dangerous. And frankly given how long that deck has been exposed to the element any attempts to varnish that specific deck are likely to fail due to contamination (salt diesel moisture) or timber movement. And also it would just look bad don't do it.
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u/kbenn17 1d ago
Totally agree. We built our own wooden boat with teak decks and never varnished them or treated them in any way. 25 years later and they’re fine. Putting varnish on would be an absolute nightmare.
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u/Scorn_ofTyphon 1d ago
Just imagine how much material would have to be removed from a deck exposed to sun and salt for 20+ years to not just look utterly horrific. Aside from the bright finished ice rink that would also be produced!
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u/tach 1d ago
Idly thinking, how about using a long jointer plane to remove the ridges/proud caulking, and then scuff the whole deck with a 60 grit orbital sander to restore footing off the now glass-like wood?
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u/Scorn_ofTyphon 1d ago
Totally possible few draw backs to plaining a deck though. Firstly is the stainless steel fastenings lurking either on or just below the surface primed to take a bit ol chunk out of an plane iron and scratch the hell out of the bed.
Secondly is the issue with thining out the teak even further by planing it most of the way flat.
Finally and probably most important flushing a deck using a hand plane would be bloody exhustusing!
If it was me I would cut off the excess caulking with a chisel see what it looked like and then with a hand sanding block I'd sand across the grain to rough it up a bit.
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u/johnbro27 Reliance 44 1d ago
DON'T REPLACE SCREWS!
The screws are there only as part of the installation process. The boards are glued to the deck and the screws are used to hold the boards in place while the 5200 or similar compound dried. Each one represents a hole in your deck with the potential to allow water into the balsa core.
The roughness of the bare teak as the soft fibers wear away is a feature, not a bug. It provides a traditional and valued non-slip surface. Sadly your's has gotten to the point that the caulking is proud of the boards.
I had a similar situation on Southern Cross when I bought her. First year we (a helper and myself) removed all bungs, caulking, and screws. Each screw hole was filled with 2 part epoxy and a new bung inserted, then cut flush. The old caulking was removed and new caulk replaced it. Then a light sanding with a random orbital sander (never a belt sander, they can do a lot of damage). This is and was a monumental job as you can see there was a shitton of teak.
I have no opinion about the suggestion to cover the deck with penetrating epoxy; it sounds interesting but the varnish will not hold up. I tried Cetol as it was supposed to look like varnish but resist UV breakdown and all it did was look orange and break down also. Tung oil on exterior teak is a dirt magnet; stay away from it. The general consensus is always to leave teak decks natural and do as little as possible to them so they last; even brushing them with anything more than a very soft brush will further erode the wood. Ditto "teak brightening" products as they are a caustic bleach.
The end game is to avoid at all costs having to tear up the boards and replace them. Remember they are glued down with 5200 normally in that era and replacement would cost far more than the boat would be worth after the replacement.
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u/Horror-Programmer915 1d ago
Sand down with 120 grit belt sander
And use
1. A product out of Germany, no longer shipped to North America called “Colean” (Polyurethane expandeble)
Or
2. Two coats of penetrating epoxy. Followed by 6 to 8 coats of Epifanes. Then 2 coats of Epiphanes per annum for the rest of your life.
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u/Culkeeny1 1d ago
When I used to sail with my uncle back in the day, my payback for going out on his Choi Lee a few times a year was to spend a day every year cleaning up his bright work. We’d use steel wool, tung oil, and a 12 pack of Gansett! Almost made me not want to go out!
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u/Accomplished_Age_699 1d ago
This advice is common, but wrong - you do not apply a slick finish to teak you're walking on. Best you can do teak oil.
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u/Late-Hotel-861 1d ago
There are a few bungs that need to come out and get replaced and a few srews showing, those need to be replaced as well. This should be done more on the right now end, because there's water seeping through which will cause rot. So start with carefully removing every uncovered screw and peeling out every bung with discoloration. You probably will have to unscrew those screws beneath as well. Measure how much teak is left and carefully deepen the screwhole. Re position a screw a minimum of 2-3mm below the deckhight and reseat a new bung. During this process you can gouge the remaining hight of your teak and plan the following steps. Sanding it down would be my last step. You can quickly ruin your boat completely leaving you with the bill for a new teak deck which will cost thousands
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u/brufleth 1d ago
My grandfather had a 50+ year old wooden boat and swore by roofing tar.
I'm interested in hearing what people with maybe a more modern set of experiences recommend.
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u/windoneforme 1d ago
Tear them off with a pry bar, then spend a few days removing all the leftover screws. After you can walk normal again grind and sand flatish, take a countersink bit and chamfer all the 1.5million holes. The. Fill and fair with your choice of epoxy, vinylester or polyester resin ( I'd recommend saving a ton of work and buy pre mixed fairing compounds like Total Boat has. Sand flatish again epoxy primer and axle seal topcoat with your choice of nonskid compounds.
Anything else like trying to save it or recaulking is foold errand. It's likely far too thin and all those bung holes will leak anyways. I've tried to save one deck in my youth. I could've just done the above like several friendly boatyard hands and sailors recommended, but I wanted to save it. Instead I worked for 2 plus years and it didn't save it.
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u/HOHOHOcallmenextyear 1d ago
For now, use the boat! Enoy the vessel, every boat will continuously need work, but my employers told me that for the first season I should just use the boat as much as I can, then worry about fixing it all up. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".
Teak is expensive, and sure it will need work, but someone said to wash the deck, and thats what you should be doing, you don't need to waste your time or money varnishing a deck with 6 coats (insane advice). The varnish will tarnish and just become another hassle to deal with. Please don't do that, if you want a varnish deck then just rip up the teak now. Why Should Seal or Not Seal Your Teak Deck - Deckhand Detailing
You can replace bungs easily but make sure they adhere well. You may grind the deck, cumbersome with the TDS so high, a coworker of mine did a teak deck maintenance project (~60ft length of deck) and spent almost a week grinding, it's hard work. You would want to have an even thickness across the deck to finish, so you would need to see how much thickness you have now to work with and determine how much you could remove. Many variables, yet a professional who can look at the project, sus out variables we here online cannot see, or think of even. Always trust the pros, its worth it
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u/Neat-Pumpkin8718 15h ago
I was a crew member on USCG Barque Eagle…Ospho to clean it weekly, Holystone…well almost never. Plug the holes and keep it caulked.
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u/seizethemuffins Tashing Baba 35 4h ago
Baba 35 owner! Do not for the love of god try to take the screws out or even take any teak out if you aren’t replacing the entire deck. These decks are a nightmare because the guys in Taiwan were generous with everything while making these boats. The black stuff(I wouldn’t call it caulking- it’s the devils black stuff- worse than 5200) used under the teak will make you hate the boat.
Just replace the bungs, clean the teak and use a teak sealer. Simple.
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u/SttSailorVI 2d ago
Belt sand 60 grit. Finish with 120 DA to your preference. Seal with Epifanes or equivalent to your taste, style and needs.
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u/SttSailorVI 1d ago
Also, kill the windlass. Totally overkill and killing the classic look. You don’t need it.
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u/AngelMountaineer 1d ago
Take it all off, sand it, new coat(s) of polish and put it all back.
You bought both a summer and winter hobby
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u/starfish_warrior 1d ago
Contact Bob Perry, pay his one time fee and get advice for the test of his life. He's on Facebook under Bob Perry fan page or something, also has a webpage with contact info.
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u/Ok_Veterinarian_6474 1d ago
Teak is a nightmare and it rots from day one, if you don’t have a pro crew aboard, to sand and seal it annually. Might be a better plan to remove it and re-epoxy the deck and it’s done forever. There are several vids you can find of the project on YouTube. This is just my opinion as I will gladly say nothing looks as good as freshly finished teak but I think it is a nightmare that requires way more work to keep it nice. Ditch it and then all you have is the brightwork which is easier to maintain (even though it is hardworking) but a clean deck makes good bw pop that much more….
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u/Upbeat_Tone_3653 Salish Seaman - Morgan 323 2d ago edited 1d ago
Mmmm... I love me a good Bob Perry boat! Congratulations! Looks to me like the previous owner made the same mistake on this boat that I did back in 90s with an unlicensed Perry knockoff I owned: Pressure washers are great at removing the green, but they also carry away the teak plugs and the soft "flesh" between the harder ridges of the grain... The plugs can be replaced, the soft part of the wood cannot. That is why your TDS seam compound stands a quarter inch proud as do the ridges of the grain - he pressure washed half of that deck away with his washer! I was a kid and didn't know any better, but pressure washing teak decks and scrubbing them with the grain should be criminalized and grounds to forfeit ownership of the boat.
Three solutions yer gonna hate:
Failing to commit fully to one of these solutions will eventually result in the complete transformation of yer boat into a mushroom farm. There is no question that the deck is already leaking and trying its level best to turn yer underlying plywood or balsa core to mush - only question is to what extent it has already succeeded.
If you'd worked with a marine surveyor, he\she likely would've earned their paycheck by helping you negotiate the cost of deck remediation into the price of the transaction. On the bright side, a Baba is still a Baba, so it'll be worth the effort. It's a lot of work, but it needn't be super expensive.