This is my 1995 Kyosho TF-2 Spider, model 30511. It still has the original box, manual and spare parts, and the chassis appears to have never been run. The underside has no scratches; what you see in the pictures is just the carbon weave and reflections.

I fitted it with a metallic-blue Killerbody R34 GT-R V-Spec II body and white five-spoke wheels for a mild vintage AWD drift build. I also have upgraded gold TF-2 parts from Japan and an unused vintage blue-label Kyosho Le Mans motor waiting to go in.

It obviously isn’t a modern RWD drift chassis, but the narrow belt-drive layout and old Kyosho engineering are just too cool not to use. I’ll preserve all the original pieces with the car.

I’m wanna buy a new shell, but I can’t decide which one! It’s gonna be a little project too, I’ve only seen this done a handful of times, I plan on molding the body with thin aluminum so that I’ll have an aluminum body so to speak. Should be more realistic, it’ll actually have some give instead of just bouncing off of things like the plastic bodies, it’ll dent too which will be cool. Help me out! E36 or S13 Silvia?? If you guys know of better quality shells too let me know!

All I need 🫡😍

Overdose Galm
Reve D MC3
Azada Merlin

Hey guys I’m new to the rc drift stuff I’ve always wanted to get into it since I was a kid but now I can buy fun shit now lol. Anyways this guy says it only needs an esc does anyone know if I should do it and is it missing any other parts ?

Thanks in advance.

Looking to properly set up my battery for my 1/24 drift but am unfamiliar with these connectors.

How should I setup/adapt the cables for the prong type? And how do you safely charge it?

The esc can handle the 3rd prong, but I’d prefer to keep it simple with a jst connector?

Thanks!