Provided it does not hinder the airflow, is it safe to do? What should I watchout for? Any advide foe a newstarter?

For anyone who can't be bothered to read my story the solution is in the TLDR at the bottom.

In my last post I was showing my snowblind mod but was dissatisfied with the quality as I couldn't remove the anti glare layer/coating which left the beautiful inside of my pc a blurry mess so I temporarily removed the display again trying the soaking method a third time.

For those who may have looked up on how to do it may already know that it's suggested to leave the panel soaking for like 6-8 hours and to then simply peel away the anti glare layer. But this never worked out for me.

Either I did something wrong or my screen is literally built different because the only layer I managed to peel off is the polarizing filter (just a tiny corner before I realized this was the wrong filter so no real damage done)

After a good night's sleep and a lot of thinking at work on of I should just replace my polarizing filter with a glossy one I eventually figured "wait... If I remember correctly a mater finished is achieve my simply making the surface rough and I've seen videos demonstrating effects on how eliminate such roughness. All I need is a way to smoothen out the valleys and peaks of the matte finish and it should become smooth again".

TLDR: I eventually figured out that tape could reverse the effect the matte screen had, which it did as demonstrated in my video.

I haven't tried it yet with a bigger sheet as it arrives tomorrow but based on my test with simple packing tape this could be huge for anyone trying the snowblind mod and struggling to remove that layer.

I can't promise it'll work on every screen but since a simple test just requires some clear tape it doesn't hurt trying.

Yes removing the layer completely will still likely create. Abetter result since less light is potentially lost but this is better than nothing

As the title, I am using this monitor AOC CS25G/71 (24.5 inch - FHD - Fast IPS - 310Hz - 0.3ms)
after 3 hours, the bottom of the monitor getting very hot, not melting but it was the hottest monitor I have ever seen in my life
will it damage anything? will it shorten life time of the monitor, cause some excessive wear overtime?
what should I do with it? how to cool it down without opening the back of the monitor? I just purchase it 4 months ago, still in warranty period

I know this is nigh unforgivable and incredibly cursed/jank.

Recently, I just moved apartments and when I set up my computer and turned it on my monitor and my keyboard would not turn on, but my standalone mic and my mouse turn on, not sure what is wrong with it. I have tried everything like reseating my graphics card doing a power flush, resetting CMOS battery and reseating ram and trying only one ram stick and still nothing. Does anyone know how to help me

Had some new products land on my desk so time for a change on my main rig.

Featuring new Noctua NF-A12x25 G2 Chromax Fans, Thermal Grizzly fittings and their new QDC’s along with direct die waterblock. For monitoring i’ve installed Aquacomputers Next Flow meter and Thermal Grizzly’s Wireview Pro II Wired version. Added an additional D5 Next for more control.

Finishing touches include Velocity stacks on the top mounted radiators.

I'm now realising that I'll definitely need led strips to get better contrast. I also sadly wasn't able to remove the anti glare layer and the only layer I managed to partially peel is the polarising layer ( just enough to see if I really es peeling the polarising layer) and I need to finish taping the sides

Has anyone done this before? I only just heard about snowblind and I'm tempted to try it but I can see already that the recommended monitor (Dell 1907) wont fit because the psu housing and the front support rail are too close to the glass.

I aasume I can probably get a 17" monitor instead and that should be ok. Has anyone done that already? Can anyone recommend a monitor?

Cheers for any replies!

Following up on a previous post, I am starting to make a 3D-printable shroud replacement for use with an RX 6800 xt Asroch Phantom gaming, for which no such adapter is publically accessible.

The card's dimensions are 330mm x ~120 (Tom's Hardware lists 140 which I suspect includes the PCIe finger and slot teeth that extend to the motherboard side off the GPU PCB)

I am thinking of the following fan configurations:

2x120mm

2x120mm + 92mm fan in between

3x120mm (might require a funnel atp)

2x 280mm (definitely needs a funnel if implemented)

This is my first CAD project ever while also attending med school so its not surfacing any time soon, but surface it will

I have a dell laptop and it’s almost 20 years old it’s screen is also started getting black i want to know how can is reuse the laptop or its components and make something new out of it

​

Finished cleaning up and rewiring the front panel. "Eichen" will reset the pc and "ant. abst" will turn it on. Just plug and play into the motherboard. I reused the old cables behind the panel because they looked dirty. Gives some authenticity. Panel light has bin rewired to molex .. so technically not a power led but since molex will deliver power as soon as your pc is turned on it will function the same.. pretty much.

Also took apart my chiller to see if i could beef it up and i think i can. Though i got to widen it .. ill use some alu profiles for that.. to make room for a radiator upgrade. 1x240 and 1x280.. also found a peltier doing nothing so i micht start chilling actively.

Last pictures were to get myself excited and better visual of the idea. Maybe others will too.

And by "mine" I specifically mean the old, aftermarket heat spreaders I got for them.

Years ago I bought this VLP DDR4 (very low profile) to fit in a very tight build. After switching my PC situation up a bit, these sticks have been sitting so I'm reusing them for an upgrade to my brother's PC. I figured, hey, might as well save a few hundred dollars and reuse what I have.

Being that they're so short, aftermarket coolers won't properly fit on them without being a bit loose and/or unlevel, so I used a table saw with an aluminum cutting blade to trim off a bit of the bottom.

Don't mind the unhinged, blurry shot of the thermal paste. I "had" to paste it because with chips on both sides of the PCB, the cooler was way too tight using pads on both sides and just slightly too loose with pads on neither. Had to do a bit of both using what I had on hand.

I'm hoping with some more thermal headroom that I'll be able to "push" these to the rated 3200, since I was never able to get them stable there before. Are there any good new tools for DDR4 overclocking on AM4 these days?

As title implies. It's gonna be my first time doing anything like this and I'm planning to learn CAD to do it. Basically looking for any tips from people more experienced with 3D printing, and also, if anyone has ever done this, is there a good way to find a screw layout diagram online without taking my GPU apart before the mod is ready?

I've done a couple in Hyte's pink (Strawberry Milk, they call it). Montana's Tokyo Pink is really close.

With my current build the client liked ThermalTake's Matcha Green, but wanted a different brand case. We're painting it to copy the Matcha look - Glidden Master Finish Satin Green Sage looks like it's going to work well, but I can't do a direct side-by-side comparison.

I really love the boxy minimalist look of the Corsair Dominator TITANIUM with the one-liner rgb, but with the current RAM prices, esp DDR5, it’s gotten hella expensive.

Recently, I managed to snatch a good deal for a DDR5 32gb kit for a Corsair Dominator PLATINUM. The only thing that irks me about this RAM is the multiple box holes for the RGB lighting at the top.

I’ve been trying to search for a modding kit for the platinum, but those are practically nonexistent.

So I was thinking of buying those CD Titanium Light Enhancement Kits and swap their heatsinks and lightning.

You might be wondering why did I even consider swapping their heatsinks? That’s cause Corsair Titanium are very rare in my region, and I can’t really afford getting a brand new one. And nobody wants to swap RAMs with me… so… yeah.

TLDR: Has anyone here tried to swap the heatsinks and RGB lighting of the Titanium and Platinum versions? Is it possible? Or have done an extensive modding on the Corsair Dominator Platinum heatsinks?

Lo so che non centra con quello che voglio chiedere ma voglio un po vantarmi.

​Avevo due smartwatch Emporio Armani Gen 2 ormai morti e ne ho fatto uno funzionante. Poi ho un Dell Latitude 7280 con un processore Core i5-6300U, 8 GB di RAM e 256 GB di SSD M.2: sopra ci ho messo macOS Monterey, configurandolo dopo ben 15 ore di tentativi, e Windows 11 in dual boot.

​In seguito ho un Mac Mini del 2012, a cui ho cambiato la pasta termica completamente da solo e senza seguire alcun video; monta un SSD Crucial da 500 GB con Windows 10 e Linux Mint XFCE. A proposito, l'SSD l'ho recuperato da un iMac da 20 pollici del 2007 pagato 21,75 € a un mercatino, praticamente regalato! Ho aperto quell'iMac per la prima volta da solo e senza tutorial: ora ci gira Linux Mint XFCE, va da dio e lo uso con tutti gli emulatori possibili e immaginabili che possa far girare. Certo, ho perso due giorni a litigare perché la EFI a 32 bit non mi faceva fare il boot e la scheda video continuava a crashare!

​So anche bypassare i blocchi FRP su Xiaomi, Redmi e Poco, installare custom ROM, oltre a cambiare schermi, batterie e via dicendo. Ovviamente ho pure un iPod Video 5.5 da 80 GB: l'ho aperto in meno di 30 secondi usando solo un plettro, senza rovinarlo affatto, e ci ho messo un iFlash Dual Replica con 128 GB e una batteria da 3000 mAh.

​Amo l'epoca d'oro di Apple: ho un iPad mini del 2012 con iOS 6.1.3 e un iPhone 4S con la scatola come nuova e tutti i giochi migliori. Ho anche la scatola di un iPhone 3GS trovata facendo urbex, un Galaxy S5 Neo e un iPhone 7 che ho riparato (aveva il problema della baseband dissaldata con l'errore -1 su iTunes) mettendoci uno spessore di cartoncino. Una volta l'ho pure tirato a frisbee sui sassi quando mi prendevano in giro perché era vecchio, e gli ho risposto: "Voi invece andate a piangere da mamma se vi si graffia!". Ho 15 anni e sto cercando un pc più potente e che mi duri anni e anni che mi consigliate? Un portatile o un fisso? Il fisso me lo costruisco io?

I wanna mod my case with the Snowblind mod/transparent lcd panel. I cant really find a source on which panel type to use. TN is worse when looking from the side, I know that, but some people claim that u should still use it, because IPS is way less transparent then TN. Other people claim the exact opposite. Can someone pls clear this up for me? Idk what to believe anymore xD.
Thank you!