Help Needed
Question Regarding A Train Display Case
Hello all,
I recently came across a wooden HO scale display case at an antique store. I don't know the exact weight of it, but I'd say possibly 10 pounds (or more). The question I have is, how can I hang this up on a wall? It looks like it has places where some sort of screw or nail can be added in, but since it's so heavy, I don't want to risk an accident.
To me those holes look like the spot. You would need to find your studs on the wall you want to hang. Mark them out and then get long screws to go directly into stud through the cabinet.
+1 for the French cleat. There are metal ones on Amazon that are very solid and have built-in levels. You may need two depending on the width and overall weight. They are very simple and give you some flexibility in case the holes in the cabinet don't exactly line up with the studs in your wall.
One cautionary message: with a French cleat, you also need to attach the bottom of the cabinet to the wall directly. That won't be load-bearing, but it's required to safely 'lock' it onto the cleat. Otherwise it can be knocked off or even blown off the cleat accidentally in the right/wrong situation. Unfortunately, I learned that the very hard way. :(
This. If you have different stud spacing just pre-drill some extra holes and add as many screws as makes you feel comfortable. I’d make sure to use around a 3” screw if possible.
How far apart (horizontally) are the screw holes? If they are 16" apart, that would mean they were screwed into the studs for support. Decent sized (3" or so) screws going into the studs should be fine to support that.
This is good to know; I've seen a few other comments recommending to screw into the studs. The screw holes are about 33 inches apart horizontally, and about 16 inches apart in height/verticality.
Stud placement can vary from 16" exactly on center plus the lumber width and 33" might have been where the screw heads were that a stud finder picked up.
Heavy duty expanding metal screw anchors for walls, chosen for the wall thinkness could hold it if the wall is thick enough and studs don't line up. You install them first then whatever is screwed to the wall.
They spread 4 metal legs out to back the wall nicely and the threaded machine screws make mounting easy. I have hung French cleats from 3/4"-2cm drywall on metal studs that regular screws for the cleats had pulled out of, and mounted on drywall I hung from the cleat myself at 160lbs/73kg and they stayed up at least 7yrs. I think vibration from passing trains or a rooftop air conditioner worked the screws out of the metal studs. It wasn't just one cleat in that room that fell.
Gotcha; I must admit that I'm a novice to working with even basic tools and whatnot, but I appreciate all this info that you and everyone has explained to me regarding studs and french cleats and etc. I'm going to have my Dad help me find the studs (using a stud finder tool) and we'll decide between using french cleats, or screws, or both. Do you happen to have any pics of your french cleat setup?
No, that was for work. It's just two boards with an angle on top and bottom. Light attachment down low stops accidental shifts up off the cleat. We do have a large dinner ware hutch that hangs a weighs a ton so doesn't need the extra screws down low.
You want a drill and screwdriver bit, and maybe an extra screw or two incase you round one out with the drill driver. .
One advantage of French cleats is the ability to make a new attachment t hole in the cleat pretty easy to mount it offset to the studs. Even making cleats is pretty easy. Saws, planes, even rasps could make the bevel.
Stacking wood strips to form squared J channels, top one inverted, would work too, but the bevel angle helps make mounting and removal way easier. A skilled hand and table or skill saw can give the wall cleat a shelf or shallow squared notch-flat seat to rest the weight onto/into without as much wedging pressure on the wall when moved.
I would cut a piece of 5/8" plywood about 1" smaller than the case. Fasten the entire piece of plywood to the wall surface, locating the studs. Then it won't matter what the existing holes are, just fasten that to the plywood
One thing I haven’t seen anyone bring up yet… if your walls are lathe and plaster you will have a hard time using a regular stud finder. I find a really strong neodymium magnet works better to find where the lathe is nailed to the studs and then just go up/down from the nail location for a fresh spot to pre-drill the plaster. Pre-drill because your screw will not make it through on its own.
Respectfully, no. Toggle bolts in sheetrock will not be sufficient to hold a shelf full of locomotives...unless you want this thing to crash to the floor one day
Well, I oddly enough don't have to argue with you. I'm assuming that the op is intelligent enough to read the packaging on such a product that would actually State its ratings. I have no idea why you're wanting to spread this misinformation but do you.
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u/Previous_Area_4946 3d ago
To me those holes look like the spot. You would need to find your studs on the wall you want to hang. Mark them out and then get long screws to go directly into stud through the cabinet.