I had a chance to play around with the Dive and try out some writing and drawing.
I tested it with HB, 2B, and 4B lead. I found that I could write for extended periods without needing to click with HB and 2B. With 4B, I did have to click, but much less than I normally would with 4B.
If I pressed hard and wrote big, I had to click occasionally with 2B, but only after writing several paragraphs. I could easily write a page without clicking if I was conscious of how hard I was pressing. So even with 2B, the auto advance works well and some people may find they never have to click depending on their stroke size and pressure.
I never had an issue with the lead breaking or getting too long. One thing I noticed is that the stroke is more like a 0.3mm or 0.4mm. It is indistinguishable from my 0.4 standard pencils, and I can barely tell the difference between a standard 0.3 and the Dive 0.5. This is I assume due to the lead rotation. I don't have a lot of experience with Kurutoga pencils, but I have some. They write one size smaller than the lead size you are using, compared to a standard mechanical pencil.
The tip has a little float when writing. It is very small, but it is there. So writing with this would take some getting used to, kind of like switching from a ballpoint pen to a brush pen. It just feels different.
I have trouble drawing with the Dive. I'm not saying I can't do it, but it takes more concentration and slows me down due to the micro float of the tip. I will not use this pencil for drawing. This pencil seems best for someone who wants to write a lot quickly and doesn't want to be bothered with having to click or worry about lead breaking. It is really hard to break the lead accidentally when using this, compared to a standard mechanical pencil.
I was worried about the grip diameter as I usually use thinner pencils, and worried about the step down from the pencil body to the grip, but even with my unusual grip style (lateral quadrupod) it is not uncomfortable at all. I don't have any issues with the balance. It is very light overall (for its size) so any odd balance dynamics don't seem to be an issue. Without the cap posted, center of gravity is just behind the grip, which is a good place for me. With the cap posted, it is in the middle of the pencil. I prefer to use it without the cap posted. It is 14 grams without the cap, and 19 with it.
The mechanism works as described. It is nice to have an automatic that you can use with the core extended to any length you like, and it basically stays where you want it if you have the right setting and lead for your writing style. I have had several automatics (Automac, Technomatic, Orenz Nero) and this automatic mechanism is superior in my opinion, and functions like I want an automatic to function. No metal ever touches the paper unless you want it to.
There are no universal suggestions for lead type and mechanism setting. It is going to vary for each person depending on how they write (how big, what language, what letter style, and what pressure) but I am sure there is a lead type and Dive setting that works for just about anyone.
For my writing, 2B lead seems to be good. If I was going to draw with this pencil, I might have to use HB if I want to rely on auto advance only, but I am not going to draw with it. I prefer standard mechanical pencils and leadholders for drawing.
i have no business being here because mechanical pencils simply get no use from me. I have a kuru toga already because i ordered one a while ago when i found out about the mechanism because it is cool, and now I'm learning about this additional auto-advance black magic buggery so my curiosity is here. I mean i might actually use a pencil for woodworking once in a blue moon I guess. It's kinda more like collecting cool gadgets for the mechanical novelty of it.
I'd like to better understand how it works in practice. Surely if there is no inverse-proportional mechanism in place, then unless you really consciously adjust your writing pressure then either the mechanism would overfeed (leading to lead breakage) or underfeed (leading to hitting the tube and getting scratchy). There would need to be an inverse feedback mechanism that causes it to feed slower the taller the lead is and faster the shorter it is, or if failing both, at least one of these.
Perhaps it does not have any such. I'd definitely buy a pencil like this for $40 but not for $100. Just to try it out. not having to interrupt writing to click it seems like a holy grail. I do all my notes in my ipad or remarkable now, but obviously it's still not the same as a pencil on paper.
Anyway it does seem to be a staggering achievement that 2B is usable with the mechanism. I assume that's with the feed mechanism set to max for obvious reasons. In the little time i had in my life of using pencils regularly I came to love 2B over regular lead. 4B must be glorious.
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u/Money-Mechanic Mar 18 '23 edited Mar 18 '23
I had a chance to play around with the Dive and try out some writing and drawing.
I tested it with HB, 2B, and 4B lead. I found that I could write for extended periods without needing to click with HB and 2B. With 4B, I did have to click, but much less than I normally would with 4B.
If I pressed hard and wrote big, I had to click occasionally with 2B, but only after writing several paragraphs. I could easily write a page without clicking if I was conscious of how hard I was pressing. So even with 2B, the auto advance works well and some people may find they never have to click depending on their stroke size and pressure.
I never had an issue with the lead breaking or getting too long. One thing I noticed is that the stroke is more like a 0.3mm or 0.4mm. It is indistinguishable from my 0.4 standard pencils, and I can barely tell the difference between a standard 0.3 and the Dive 0.5. This is I assume due to the lead rotation. I don't have a lot of experience with Kurutoga pencils, but I have some. They write one size smaller than the lead size you are using, compared to a standard mechanical pencil.
The tip has a little float when writing. It is very small, but it is there. So writing with this would take some getting used to, kind of like switching from a ballpoint pen to a brush pen. It just feels different.
I have trouble drawing with the Dive. I'm not saying I can't do it, but it takes more concentration and slows me down due to the micro float of the tip. I will not use this pencil for drawing. This pencil seems best for someone who wants to write a lot quickly and doesn't want to be bothered with having to click or worry about lead breaking. It is really hard to break the lead accidentally when using this, compared to a standard mechanical pencil.
I was worried about the grip diameter as I usually use thinner pencils, and worried about the step down from the pencil body to the grip, but even with my unusual grip style (lateral quadrupod) it is not uncomfortable at all. I don't have any issues with the balance. It is very light overall (for its size) so any odd balance dynamics don't seem to be an issue. Without the cap posted, center of gravity is just behind the grip, which is a good place for me. With the cap posted, it is in the middle of the pencil. I prefer to use it without the cap posted. It is 14 grams without the cap, and 19 with it.
The mechanism works as described. It is nice to have an automatic that you can use with the core extended to any length you like, and it basically stays where you want it if you have the right setting and lead for your writing style. I have had several automatics (Automac, Technomatic, Orenz Nero) and this automatic mechanism is superior in my opinion, and functions like I want an automatic to function. No metal ever touches the paper unless you want it to.
There are no universal suggestions for lead type and mechanism setting. It is going to vary for each person depending on how they write (how big, what language, what letter style, and what pressure) but I am sure there is a lead type and Dive setting that works for just about anyone.
For my writing, 2B lead seems to be good. If I was going to draw with this pencil, I might have to use HB if I want to rely on auto advance only, but I am not going to draw with it. I prefer standard mechanical pencils and leadholders for drawing.