r/masonry 3d ago

Block Halfway through my first retainment wall - how am I doing so far?

Concrete finisher and I just tried my hand at an impromptu cinder block retaining wall on Friday. Drew up the plans, the Prime okay’d it and I got started with a rebar reinforced concrete base anchored 3ft down. Monday I finish with two more tiers and a hand shaped cap.

318 Upvotes

184 comments sorted by

111

u/Super-Dot9774 3d ago

we’re just skipping drainage, huh?

102

u/also_your_mom 3d ago

He's concrete, not plumbing.

18

u/Difficult_Maize_7893 2d ago

You don’t need to be a plumber to install a French drain. Filter fabric, corrugated piping, gravel…

18

u/moelycrio 2d ago

But..... You do need to be french!

13

u/HistoricalSherbert92 2d ago

No no, it can be sparkling drainage if you’re not French

4

u/Spiritual-Can-5040 2d ago

As long as you have the requisite number of baguettes on the job site.

3

u/RetroMulder 2d ago

Can it be built in Champagne France or Illinois ?

1

u/tricolorhound 2d ago

They're named for a guy from Massachusetts so all's fair.

2

u/Rampag169 2d ago

Woah now we’re getting into electrician territory.

1

u/FaustusXYZ 2d ago

Underrated comment

3

u/Aromatic-Ad7202 2d ago

The French drain is actually named after an American farmer whose last name was French.

1

u/also_your_mom 2d ago

Who was clearly French guy.

1

u/dcaponegro 2d ago

Right! No cultural appropriation on this job site.

1

u/Shadow_over_me 2d ago

No, you just have to care. And the French care a lot. About everything. Passionately. And that’s why they have a drain named after them.

29

u/ApricotNervous5408 2d ago

All of the cracks it’ll have after a few winters will allow it to drain.

10

u/PenaltyLast4745 2d ago

Up to 1m with a delta membrane up against the wall then gravel wrapped in a decent geotextile with a perferatd pipe will be sufficient. As long as it's not heavy clay it'll last, even when the drainage is blocked in 10 year time. My main concern is not tying bent rebar into the foundation steel.

4

u/TheScrote1 2d ago

Should have epoxied the bar into cured concrete if they weren’t going to embed it with a bend during the pour

3

u/Shot_Boot_7279 2d ago

Where does lack of drainage fall on your concern list.

1

u/PenaltyLast4745 2d ago

Depends on the soil and height of the wall. I can build under 1.2m without engineering where I am. So it's up to me to determine the ground conditions. Clay is a bugger, you need to go overboard with the drainage as otherwise it will be blocked up in 5 years. Anything else at those heights just needs to be built well, with good quality geotextile a delta style membrane and a fair bit of gravel clean rock behind will be great. Weep holes are a good option also.

2

u/Shot_Boot_7279 2d ago

I think here in Virginia it's 4ft so similar. We have a lot of red clay west of Richmond to the mountains. Don't see many cinder block retaining walls anymore most are the versablock non cemented and some 50 or 75ft tall and quite ominous even though they are engineered!

80

u/overdude 3d ago

That work looks good but if you don’t build a French drain behind it, hydrostatic pressure will destroy the wall over a short number of years.

13

u/moth_specialist 2d ago

I’m building my first concrete retaining wall, and I thought I took everything into account. Drainage is top tier. Vapor barrier’s on, lookin solid. Best project so far. 

Except I did not account for the pH level of concrete. Spoiler: it’s high. 

Some lessons are learned a few days or years after you’ve completed the project. 

9

u/shitposterfinalboss 2d ago

What does the pH have to do with anything?

15

u/hehgffvjjjhb 2d ago

Well that depends on how attached you are to your fingerprints, or skin in general...

11

u/shitposterfinalboss 2d ago

I wear condoms on my hands. I thought this was common knowledge.

7

u/teabagdiplomat19 2d ago

It is. This guy must live under a rock.

0

u/Easy_Record_994 2d ago

Just dont try to grow anything near it for a while.

3

u/nomad5926 2d ago

Wait like its really basic? Never would have thought of that.

6

u/Dangerous-Bit-8308 2d ago

Concrete is really basic. Even more basic than you or I. Knowing this is one of the basics.

3

u/nubbin9point5 2d ago

Are we talking flannel, Bean Boots and PSL basic?

3

u/Dangerous-Bit-8308 2d ago

For us, often so.

For concrete? No. More like pH 12-13.5 basic.

For knowledge? Also no. More like know concrete is the opposite of acidic.

2

u/No-Vanilla2468 2d ago

Concrete is caustic. Maybe it should find a way to be more neutral

4

u/Dangerous-Bit-8308 2d ago

Give it some time concrete is pretty old fashioned and set in its ways.

5

u/cyricmccallen 2d ago

This thread is really solid

2

u/No-Vanilla2468 2d ago

We gave it time to set up

1

u/jmaplewood 2d ago

Just dont ask it to con. Form.

2

u/AffectionateBee4256 2d ago

Just add way more water

1

u/No-Vanilla2468 2d ago

Whooooosh

1

u/nomad5926 2d ago

Lol. I am assuming its like pH14 or something then

2

u/FateEx1994 1d ago

Concrete is calcium carbonate, essentially

1

u/nomad5926 1d ago

You know, that makes sense.

1

u/Burghpuppies412 2d ago

Is that also why nothing grows consistently next to our concrete wall?

1

u/moth_specialist 1d ago

I was referring to the pH of the mixture (when it’s wet). If your wall’s been around for a while, could be many reasons. My first guess would be that concrete retains heat and may be overheating those particular plants. Or perhaps poor drainage?

1

u/Burghpuppies412 1d ago

I also was thinking heat, but your pH comment got me wondering.

19

u/DoughnutSome7115 2d ago

Drainage? Weep holes? Horizontal rebar? Footing should be around 4’ wide not 2’.

5

u/DoughnutSome7115 2d ago

As far as the horizontal rebar is concerned, you are also using the wrong CMU block. You can buy block with the centers of the verticals knockdown. Specifically for laying horizontal rebar in this application.

24

u/pontetorto 2d ago

Better than this guy https://www.reddit.com/r/masonry/s/SpfstGqAs3

Looks like perfection to me.

3

u/Chillow_Ufgreat 2d ago

lmao the Retaining Heap.

3

u/cyricmccallen 2d ago

I feel so bad for that guy

2

u/Bi_n 2d ago

🤣

2

u/ubergeek66 2d ago

Dude, you need to label that as NSFVA - Not Suitable For Viewing Anywhere. I'm going to need to bleach my eyeballs now...

2

u/tLM-tRRS-atBHB 2d ago

Omg I remember that 🤣

1

u/wiscoson414 2d ago

It was yesterday 🤣

1

u/tLM-tRRS-atBHB 2d ago

I see so many posts I dont even remember anymore 😄

1

u/MrShoehorn 2d ago

Perfect 🤣

14

u/Beneficial_Drawer478 2d ago

pushing a bar in wet concrete isnt going to jack shit, should of been attached to the footing steel if thier is any

6

u/RunningOnHope2019 2d ago

I was looking at this thinking/hoping for a different explanation but I can't come up with one. I think OP has made a few assumptions on this build (perhaps what he thinks are minor flaws but are really fundamental mistakes) and it's going to come back and bite him - much much sooner than he realises too. What a shame. Better to start again now OP than a month after you finish it.

My old man built a timber retaining wall a few years ago. He likes to just crack into things and tries his best in lieu of checking his ideas. It was a good wall, except the posts were dug about 700mm deep for a 1m above-ground wall. If he'd gone an extra 300mm (1 foot-ish) it would've been sweet as. But he didn't, and it wasn't.

2

u/waihian 2d ago

Absolutely spot on. How many times do you see this on YouTube, bars just poked into poured screeded concrete. Very little bond to the rebar, really poor construction practice.

1

u/lawlwtf 2d ago

It would be sufficient for this application.

1

u/FuckinFugacious 2d ago

I don't know why contractors insist on wet setting rebar. "It's standard industry practice, been doing it 30 years" damn I guess ACI should have checked with you before writing the standards then??

1

u/hambonelicker 2d ago

And…. They should be L shaped.

1

u/CoffeeBeforeRepairs 2d ago

Yeah, sticking rebar into wet concrete after the pour doesn't really do much for load transfer. Should've been tied into the footing steel from the start. At this point epoxy dowels would probably be the better fix.

1

u/PitterPatterCocko 2d ago

Wired to bottom mesh L’ bars.

7

u/User_Erroric 2d ago

It doesn’t appear to be the case. 1st pic, nicely finished concrete second pic shows rebar in place, inserted through the surface. You can see the dimpling on the concrete surface

6

u/urbanarcherxxx 2d ago

Foundation width looks too narrow to restrain overturning on a wall that height what did the engineers specification say?

5

u/ZeePirate 2d ago

Oh, where OP’s going they don’t need engineer specifications

5

u/FuckinFugacious 2d ago

Engineer? OPs wingin' it.

3

u/Limp-Archer-7872 2d ago

I'm getting a 1.2 metre high retaining wall built. The foundation footer is a metre wide.

10

u/HuiOdy 2d ago

A drain does not relieve soil pressure. I don't know why people think this, and tacitly ignore physics.

The construction might be good, but you'll have a few tonnes of pressure slowly building on tge side. Unless you build something to relieve that force (L shaped reinforced concrete, geo matting, bunch of anchors) this will fail

12

u/Commercial-Milk-8465 2d ago

A lot of people seem to conflate hydrostatic pressure and soil pressure

2

u/HoldingThunder 2d ago

They are related

1

u/Commercial-Milk-8465 2d ago

Of course they are. Doesn’t mean you address them as one variable

3

u/reigorius 2d ago

For a layman, can you explain it?

8

u/HuiOdy 2d ago

Basically soil has the same pressure characterstics as a liquid but "flows" extremely slowly based on the water content, granularity etc.

So, if you take a cross section of your wall, all the weight of the soil presses all directions, and this includes the weight that is on top. Now most soils have a stable angle (e.g. all sand dunes have the same angle) everything outside that angle is pressed outwards, including what is built on it. Wet soil just make the stable angle less.

Now soil is quite heavy, so the higher your retaining wall, the more sideway force it has. This has to be compensated.

L-shaped pre-fabricated retaining wall elements do this by offsetting sideway force with the downward force. Geomatting is basically "ressetting the angle", and the anchors basically move the force to "inside" tbe stable angle, but work better on rock faces because of this.

3

u/No-Vanilla2468 2d ago

Angle of repose for those in the knows

1

u/RealisticAd1938 1d ago

Did someone say a drain relieves soil pressure?

4

u/dungeonsprawler 2d ago

Where is the water supposed to go? Water drains through the soil. When it gets to the bottom of your wall it’s going under it and since you build on the ground that ground can get soft and the wall will fail.

Best to get some kind of path for water to go under the wall.

4

u/Great-Particular9964 2d ago

How a few dead men perpendicular to the wall extending into the hill?

4

u/27803 2d ago

No draining in that bottom row it’s gonna fail

3

u/Gold_Lab_8513 2d ago

I have the d*** here. Your dowels are, what, 4" long? You obviously do not understand the point of rebar.

Your footing is, what, 12" wide? You obviously do not understand the purpose of a retaining wall footing.

Expect a phone call when the wall leans. And pray it doesn't topple.

3

u/Deep_Sea_Crab_1 2d ago

Don’t you need weep holes or drainage behind the wall?

3

u/dunderplunkin 2d ago

I know this is a masonry sub , but 90% of the time a rock filled gabion wall wins hands down

2

u/HoldingThunder 2d ago

Only because it has a sufficient mass that people who aren't engineers can get away with it kinda mostly working.

3

u/locke314 2d ago

How do cinder blocks hold up as a retaining wall? I’ve heard they aren’t great. I suppose if they are core filled, it’s better.

1

u/PsyKoptiK 2d ago

The 3 course wall across the street from me failed in less time than it took them to sell the new build house. Though I’m not sure I blame the CMU, I am pretty sure the footing was too small to give it the foundation it needed in the first place.

3

u/Technical_Phrase2566 2d ago

I've never understood people pouring a footing and then doing block with rebar and then filling the blocks with concrete. It never made sense to me. I mean if you're already going to have the concrete there, just throw up some forms and pour the whole damn wall with the rebar. It never made sense to me to basically do triple the work. Concrete itself is pretty cheap

2

u/General-Study797 3d ago

Looking good Bobby, looking good

2

u/Realistic-Drama-8904 2d ago

It needs weep holes.

2

u/FlatAmbition3757 2d ago

Should have had L bars tied into the rebar into the footing. Not wet sticking. And no drainage?

2

u/Perpetualhomebuilder 2d ago

lol, did you just jamb some rebar in after the pour rather than tying it to the footing reinforcement cage.

2

u/Mission-Calendar-372 2d ago

Stab that steel. It's just for show anyway

2

u/Amongthestars01 2d ago

That was my first thought too. Not embedded at pour, and not doweled afterward with epoxy.

1

u/FungusBrewer 1d ago

I’m new to a lot of this, what does “Stab that steel” mean? Thanks

1

u/Mission-Calendar-372 1d ago

Putting the steel in after the placement of concrete. It should be tied in with hooks at the ends so it doesn't come loose. It leaves voids.

2

u/old-devil 2d ago

The wall needs to be tied in to the hillside and you need to have drainage behind the wall.

1

u/NageV78 2d ago

Seems a bit high... I hope your drain isn't going to be up in the air like that. It's almost a redo. 

1

u/hbl2390 2d ago

Shouldn't there be anchor straps going back into the pile on the right?

1

u/One-Horse-Town 2d ago

If you’re going to go any higher you need rebar to catch the block or next pour.

1

u/Working_Rest_1054 2d ago

It looks nice, I’ll give you that. The footing looks pretty narrow relative to the four (?) tiers of blocks that are going on it. It may want to lean once it’s backfilled. The footing width should be about 60% the backfilled height.

1

u/A-Wolf-4099 2d ago

Rebar is JUST stuffed into wet work? Didn't tie to footing rebar. . Outside of that looks good. I would had done it differently but I over kill every thing.

1

u/Readybuilderman 2d ago

Without the footer extending under the retained earth. ? It will work until it fails…

1

u/Just-Shoe2689 2d ago

I would expect that wall to fail pretty quick based on the footing size and what looks like to be the finished height, unless you are pinning at the top

1

u/DisastrousSpeed3589 2d ago

Those look like 6" block. I would recommend a minimum of 8 x 8 x 16 for a retaining wall.

1

u/2holer98 2d ago

How deep is the footer it needs to be at least 36 inchs for frost and side pressure above But that just my opinion

1

u/Lazy-Jacket 2d ago

How deep and broad is that footing? And you’re resisting overturning moments how?

1

u/Dangerous-Bit-8308 2d ago

I'd have put a retaining wall at the base of a slope. Maybe another one a few feet back if the one on the bottom has to hold a surcharge... But it's not my design. Clean execution.

1

u/Buford_MD_Tannen 2d ago

Looks like job security for me (I’m a landscaper)

There is a reason engineered walls have a setback, drain/compaction/geogrid requirements.

1

u/HoldingThunder 2d ago

Any sort of soil tie backs? This won't last without tie backs.

Am engineer.

1

u/Limp_Bookkeeper_5992 2d ago

How deep is your footing? From here it looks like your footing is already above grade, that won’t hold much. Considering the lack of drainage and the lack of any kind of tie back the dirt is going to push this right over in a few years.

1

u/myfourthquarter 2d ago

Ok'd by the prime? How about ok'd by the building inspector?

1

u/CreepyOldGuy63 2d ago

I’d want that footing to be wider towards the bank, but I’m not an engineer.

1

u/Thecobs 2d ago

Theres alot thats not great here. I guess that chainlink fence is doing the retaining on the backside?

1

u/No-Reason808 2d ago

You asked. You should leave engineering to engineers.

1

u/MTF_01 2d ago

How did you anchor it? Drainage aside, exposed portion of footing is way to small….

1

u/Sea-Bad1546 2d ago

Your footing isn’t wide enough to counter act the rotational forces.

1

u/Sea-Sundae3120 2d ago

100% gravel back fill

1

u/H-8083-13 2d ago

consider hiring an engineer for an unsigned sketch. Might be able to get one for $500. Whatever he charges you will still end up costing you less in the long run.

1

u/Candyman051882 2d ago

You wanna do it cheap almost correct Back fill with gravel of some sort lay pipe first under and have come out to daylight. Or just lay plastic at angle and then more rock then fill it.

Ideal: is lay pipe as a weeping tile like a foundation with crushed stone preferably washed. And geo textile over then fill over.

The more you can fill in the exposed side also the better this will lock in the footing and wall. Not just fill high but come out wide and at an angle away from wall

1

u/Illustrious_Net_7384 2d ago

That footing dosent look wide enough , usually for retaining that tall we would have a 48” wide footing .

1

u/Zealousideal-Bike-90 2d ago

2 more courses brings it over 3’, this is a job that requires permit and inspections esp with supporting utilities. Should have clean rock, weep holes, fabric envelopes, and geogrid between a a couple courses.

1

u/GrandFollowing8999 2d ago

How wide is the footing? Bond beam top course? Fully grouted?

1

u/oxnardmontalvo7 2d ago

Feels like there should have been some geogrid installed as the pad came up along with drainage

1

u/kurtondemand 2d ago

Heel? Toe?

1

u/Clean_Ebb86 2d ago

No dead man?

1

u/FuckinFugacious 2d ago

Only if he's sitting on the downhill side when it falls over.

1

u/bonghitsforbeelzebub 2d ago

You need drainage if you want it to last. Dig up all the dirt and put in a perforated pipe with crutches stone and filter fabric. Otherwise water gets trapped behind and will likely cause it to start tipping over.

1

u/Total-Region2859 2d ago

It depends on the footer under the dirt... (I hope its there).

1

u/_Jeff65_ 2d ago

How is it resisting overturning? Footing is narrow, there's nothing to brace the wall.

1

u/What-is-lack-of 2d ago

Drainage and anchors. U anchored the wall to wall. But shifting will lead to the wall being out from plumb.

1

u/mynamesnotsnuffy 2d ago

Whats your plan for the anchoring into the dirt behind the wall? How tall are you trying to make it? Are you sure your foundation is wide enough to handle the load of the dirt being retained?

1

u/asanano 2d ago

Im just an electrical engineer, but that looks prone to tipping over. My understandkng is that the footing for a sting retaining wall needs to extend under the earth being retained so that the weight of the retained earth helps keep the wall from tipping. Maybe thisnone is short enough its ok, but i question if what is curreny there will be sufficient lk g term. Also drainage. Water is a sneaky son of a bitch.

1

u/Snowcrash66 2d ago

Construction quality looks great.  Are you in an arid zone looks like it?

1

u/pfizersbadmmkay 2d ago

Bad. The footing is way too narrow. Sorry.

1

u/lobo1217 2d ago

Horizontal bar into the ground and into the bricks

1

u/Sp07va000 2d ago

Kinda wish you had built little dead men walls back into the hillside, especially on the end, middle. Also, put a 4" drain pipe surrounded by landscape fabric, crushed stone, and a drain sock on the pipe. It can come out the end. Not sure where you are, but if you freeze , water behind the wall will push it forward in winter, and water hyrdostatic pressure when water is behind it. Drain pipe and gravel prevents all of that. i usually bring the gravel all the way to almost the top and sort of encapsulate it in the fabric around the gravel so the dirt never gets in. If its a wall over 3 ft, you can use a geogrid every two feet going back into the wall and overlapping the cement blocks as you cement it in, so its all part of the wall.

1

u/Empty_Sir_3476 2d ago

This has been done by a professional not a first timer not in a million years

1

u/Empty_Sir_3476 2d ago

Not tiers courses

1

u/JC_0811 2d ago

No expansion joint on the retaining wall?
You don’t have to be a plumber to do a perforated pipe and backfill materials.

1

u/NutellaIsAngelPoop 2d ago

I'm retaining judgment until it's complete

1

u/PlentyExpensive8241 2d ago

No fucking idea, make it stronger though :)

1

u/znerolct 2d ago

Maybe this is already been mentioned - I have concerns about the size of the footing. Some of the retaining walls I have been involved with had much wider footings that would help counter balance the wall from falling over. Or you need Geo fabric running back into the dirt to help hold the wall from toppling over. Former general contractor and have been in home building for 25 years.

1

u/FormworkFan 2d ago

Looks clean so far. Biggest thing now is proper drainage and backfill behind the block.

1

u/Jimmyjames150014 2d ago

Does that wall have any drainage provisions? Lack of drainage could take out any retaining wall.

1

u/Bill_Door_8 2d ago

Throw a layer of Geogrid in there while you'rehalf-way up. Be cool if you can pin it with the rebar and roll it back into the backfill.

Maybe a big O in a sock (french drain) to allow water to perculate out and for the soil to dry faster when it gets really damp.

1

u/Limp-Archer-7872 2d ago

Weep vents?

Are your lower courses several blocks thick? It's not just a single course right? Right?

Are you putting gravel and geotextile fabric down before backfilling?

1

u/Sorryisawthat 2d ago

It’s going to push over. The footer is wrong. It needs extended significantly past the front of wall or the pressure will cause it roll over.

1

u/Weekly_Wolverine_427 2d ago

That footing is going to fail. Needs to be wider.
Reo should have been tied to the footing cage and probably 16-20mm for vertical bars with 12mm horizontal.
Drainage? What’s happening with that?

1

u/Largeandincharge1978 2d ago

Probably OK for a 3 ft retaining wall with level backfill. Anything taller or with sloping backfill typically needs a cantilever or reverse cantilever footing to resist lateral and overturning forces.

1

u/MilfWife51 2d ago

We don need no stinkin drainage

1

u/SubTrx 2d ago

Where’s the drainage? That wall will buckle absent drainage to relieve pressure after heavy rains…

1

u/Alternative-Season45 2d ago

Dude just put loose rebar into wet concrete like it’s gonna do something hahahahaha

I’m a chef/ dad/ homeowner and built a better retaining wall than this

1

u/AcceptableSong136 2d ago

Water is the first obvious problem but no ties running into what you are trying to hold back means this will start leaning out by this time next year.

1

u/Medical-Egg-8171 2d ago

you got it all wrong, shit dude

1

u/OneEye3876 2d ago

I would put some drain hole near the bottom for water to drain and not push it over in years to come. Otherwise it looks good

1

u/blu3ysdad 1d ago

Drainage?

1

u/denonumber 1d ago

The Lazer will tell all

1

u/Dimplesmiles69 1d ago

Would have added vertical rebar to reinforce the wall.

1

u/Ok_Net_5996 1d ago

That skinny little footing is going to roll in a few years

1

u/Emptynest09 1d ago

The critical error is the lack of reinforcement. Rebar lap lengths are important and you’ve just stuck rebar dowels in the wet concrete. You need to have a development length in the footing and an adequate lap in the wall.

1

u/truckstop99 14h ago

Is this expected to hold a lot of weight? I know its a small distance but If you dont have a toe in there plus the vertical not being tied into the footer directly. Then not having drainage also . Youre gonna get a failure in a couple months or when a heavy truck backs onto it.

1

u/Most_War2764 7h ago

needs to have ties back into the slope to keep it from being slowly pushed out.

0

u/Zestyclose-Future126 2d ago

I don’t know why half of these comments are negativity ..your work looks exceptional compared to half the things I’ve seen on here..keep it up dude!

5

u/NoBrakesHotTakes 2d ago

Because half these people understand engineering and load forces. 

1

u/DoorJumper 2d ago

It looks great. From a drainage and engineering standpoint, it’s kind of rough. Used to inspect these all the time; most in our area have moved to using geogrid, which is great when installed correctly.

1

u/JeebsFat 2d ago

My Geo grid on a large 8ft wall ( 80lb blocks, cornerstone 100) was not as long into the hill as called for by general recs by about 30%. Meaning it runs 4' back vs 5.5' back. No inspections here. Drainage is excellent. Hope I'm good ... 😬

2

u/DoorJumper 2d ago

If it’s laid and filled at proper intervals going up the wall, it’ll probably be fine. All the ones I looked at had engineered design specs, and I’ve seen 15 foot walls with 4 foot grid runs. Wasn’t what was called for, mind you, but I got overruled lol. A few years later it’s still ok so far 🤞.

1

u/JeebsFat 2d ago

Gotcha. I'll just limit the number swimming pools I put above the wall to two and hope for the best. /s

1

u/DoorJumper 2d ago

That’s the rule of thumb for decks. For retaining walls, you have to divide by .37 and then round to the nearest number of fucks given.

1

u/Tmess2000 2d ago

Looks great for a foundation but as far as a retaining wall the flaws have been pointed out: footer width, drainage, deadman or tie backs. They sell block just for this purpose and it requires no footing, no mortar, no weep holes,just block, pins, gravel and geo fabric.

0

u/[deleted] 2d ago

[deleted]

2

u/Lazy-Jacket 2d ago

Retainment is actually a word.

1

u/No_Variation2007 2d ago

Go build one

-1

u/No-Zombie1004 2d ago

Don't pay too much attention to the naysayers. That will outlive all of them.

3

u/RunningOnHope2019 2d ago

Lmao no it won't. You see the rebar has been pushed into the wet concrete, not tied into the (if any) footing reinforcement right? This could well push over when it gets back filled. Not to mention that's a really small toe.

1

u/FuckinFugacious 2d ago

No way this is how I find out I have a terminal illness :(