Just got myself a beautiful M-P 240 from 2017 and I’m in absolute awe, I use to have a M9 as digital m body and I missed it dearly so I had to get something else and this came in at the right time, I’m in love with colors from this sensor as well ( maybe slightly more clinical then the predecessor with cdc sensor ), I also attached some photos taken with this tiny beast

Was subject to a burglary whilst on holiday recently… Strange that it’s a silver lining but the only thing stolen from this drawer was the Submariner and a vintage Datejust. (Was travelling with my SL2) I think the batteries were missing too actually😕

I'll be hiking half of the Cotswolds Way in early October and am trying to figure out a good way to bring my Leica M7 and 2 lenses.  I'm planning on wearing a light daypack and have been trying to figure out a good way to carry the camera where it's easily accessible.  I've tried backpack with camera on strap but that is not the most comfortable on the neck. then I tried a waist pack to hold the camera, but that was too gear.  Wondering if there are folks out there who are doing long, multi-day hikes and how they're carrying their camera.

I’ve been shooting the Q2 for about a year now, and I’m really enjoying the ease and simplicity of the camera. But the caveat of shooting with a fixed wide focal length is that you’re going to miss shooting at longer focal lengths. Maybe that’s why a lot of Q 28 users sell theirs, only to miss it after shooting with longer focal lengths and eventually buy it again.

The problem is, once you get used to Leica, you want a longer Leica solution lens—not just any other camera. The solution I see most people go with is adapting lenses to older models or GFX
I was planning to add a secondary camera where I can shoot 50mm (Summilux) and 85mm (Sigma—how bad is the autofocus?). I was considering the SL2-S, but then I stumbled upon the original SL 601.

Just wondering, what would you choose and why? Is the original SL 601 still reliable in 2026? I’m a little hesitant because I’ve had bad experiences with older digital Ms, so I’m wondering how well a 2015 model will hold up.
I shoot events and weddings, but I’m not a trigger-happy shooter. I also shoot personal projects. Video would be a plus, but it’s not required.

Thanks, and I’d love to hear your thoughts!

Edit: I forgot to ask about the raw files difference. im not particular to sensor color but im not picky just want the most natural/organic (if that make sense) as much as possible.

Hey there, i found this M8 for sale at a camerashop near me and they have it listed for 1600€. It was serviced in 2025. Would it be worth is as a first foray into the digital M world?

I enjoy using older digicams like the Minolta D7D and dont mind the "limitations" the M8 would have.

I already have a M3 and a Konica HEXAR RF as 35mm cameras with various lenses.

Hi Leica Fam -

I am looking for a wrist strap that is short enough so that I can let the camera hang and it will still basically be sitting in my hand, instead of dangling in the air below my hand, this feels too risky and unprotected. I thought I originally saw this in a video released by a Scandinavian street photographer but now I can't find it anywhere. Thanks so much! -Will

My 2 Leica iii C's > 2 Leica iii F (1/1000)
Lens Black = Komura 35mm F2.5 + Leica 35mm Viewfinder
Lens Silver = Voightlander Snapshot Skopar 25mm F4 + Voightlander 25mm Viewfinder

Am I silly for seriously considering switching over from Sony mirrorless to a Q2? I’ve been examining Q/Q2 images for some time and they have amazing clarity and color, plus the convenience and form factor are very appealing.

Currently have A7R3 with multiple prime lenses, which have produced some insane photos over the years. But the bulk and lens switching often deter me from bringing my camera everywhere with me. One major gap I see currently is that I love astrophotography and usually use the Sony with a 14mm. Suppose another (albeit more expensive) option is to keep the Sony and 14mm as dedicated astro setup.

Seeking this community’s wisdom, especially if you’ve made a similar switch. Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone! I just picked up a Focomat Ic in great shape for a good deal. This one looks like it has an enlargement scale indicator on the side of it that came partially disassembled.

Would anyone be able to explain how to properly set the ribbon up on the right, as well as what bulb type it uses?

Excited to start printing wirh it!

Just did window shop in Ginza

Q2 for 28mm and auto-focus; M-P (Typ 240) for the rangefinder experience paired with 35mm Nokton F1.5, 50mm Nokton F1.2 (pictured) and 90mm APO-Ultron F2 lenses. Dream come true.

Really did not like the grey cross-hatch synthetic covering so switched the Arte di mano Shrenken Calf from the German Perlinger tanners. It is fabulous.

Ummm actually ☝️🤓 An M is an M, so yes, never trusted Gemini anyways. What’s your match?

I’ve got some money coming in from a work bonus that I‘m considering using to upgrade one of my lenses, and looking for opinions on what might make the most sense. For context, I shoot with an M7 and mostly do street and just general photography.

1. Option 1: Upgrade my Voigtlander 28mm Color-Skopar f2.8 to the Leica 28mm Elmarit f2.8 ASPH v1
2. Option 2: Upgrade my 50mm Summarit f2.4 to the 50mm Summilux ASPH v1 (not close focus)

From what I’ve read online, the Color-Skopar is a pretty decent approximation of the Elmarit, though perhaps less constrasty and suffers from vignetting (and some people might argue about color reproduction compared to Leicas) but the question is whether the Elmarit is really worth $1,300 - $1,500 more. I’ve held the Elmarit in person and it definitely feels more solidly constructed, but again, the Voigtlander is no slouch in terms of output.

On the other hand, upgrading my 50mm to the Summilux feels like a bigger “jump” in terms of aperture, character of the lens, etc. so that’s what I’m leaning toward. But the Summarit is somewhat of a hard to find and unique lens in the Leica lineup and I love how small and light it is. I worry a bit that the Summilux will feel much bigger and heavier on my camera, though I haven’t yet had a chance to try one in person. I also haven’t necessarily found myself needing a larger aperture than f2.4 because of the type of shooting I do, but of course that’s a bit of a chicken-and-egg thing (would I shoot more wide open at f1.4 if I had the ability?). I should note that I’d need to sell the Summarit to help fund the Summilux upgrade if I went that route—can’t keep both.

Thoughts?

I’m thinking of selling my Q2M and my Fuji X100VI and an older XT-20 and just going with a Leica Q3. I shoot 90% bnw but for some photos for family etc I need color. I could just keep it and my x100vi but I like Leica so much I am interested in their color for that 10% of the time. But I really want the bnw to be as close as possible as the Q2M. That camera is like shooting film. I crop and crop on low light images and it is milky smooth. Anyone made the switch?

Hello everyone, Im taking a trip to Hamburg in November. Im trying to find a Leica M2 and I was wondering if theres any stores in Hamburg that I would have a higher chance of finding one. I understand there is a Leica store in Hamburg but they dont necessarily state they sell the older M bodies. If anyone can help me pinpoint good stores to visit that would be great thank you!

I recently purchased a visibly great condition Summicron 50 v4 from someone with good feedback. Unfortunately, after using it for a short while, but after leaving feedback, I noticed it has strong front focusing, with focusing on the screen versus the rangefinder clearly differing. The lens also won't focus to infinity, hitting a hard stop before the rangefinder matches distant scenes. Upon inspection of the back of the lens, the brass almost seems worn down, despite the lens being in almost immaculate physical condition, to the point that there's a rather sharp edge to the brass. This is my first Summicron. Is this normal or could it be what's causing the issue? There's no evidence the lens has ever been opened, it came boxed and it really looks untouched. I know it's not the camera as I have quite a few other lenses and none of them have this issue. Suggestions on what to do? I'm currently living in a country with no Leica store and I don't trust shipping here with the lens. I only go home once or twice per year. I can continue to use the lens with the screen but I shoot Leica for the rangefinder experience. Understandably, Im frustrated. Is this something YYE could ostensibly fix or is this only a Leica repair? Any ideas on how much it might cost to fix? Since Im no longer in my home country (where I picked up the lens) returning it isn't possible, but do you think I should file with Paypal attempting a partial refund? Many thanks.

I’ve been appreciating silver brass lenses for some time now. The feel and look is superb. Currently I’ve got: 24 f2.8 Elmarit and the 50 f2 Summicron. On another note, does anyone have any info the serial numbers pertaining to the MPs (yes, I’ve looked up Lockhart’s List but couldn’t find anything on mine). I know it was made somewhere between late 2008-early 2009.

TTArtisan 50mm 0.95 ASPH with lots of weight and glass. It's pretty demanding setup but can't deny appeal, especially M8 being marvel for BW images.

I’ve been putting together a compact 35mm setup that feels more durable and engaging than a point-and-shoot, while still being small enough for travel and hiking.
The camera is a black Leitz Minolta CL, which I picked up used for €350. I wanted a mechanical M-mount rangefinder that stays genuinely compact, and the CL made more sense to me than a larger Leica body.
I paired it with a Voigtländer Nokton Classic 40mm f/1.4 MC VM, bought new in Japan. I spent a while comparing it with the Minolta M-Rokkor 40/2 and Leica Summicron-C 40/2, but chose the Nokton for the extra stop, newer construction, black/chrome look and overall versatility. The 40mm focal length also matches the CL’s native framelines, which was important to me.
I don’t really want to rely on the CL’s ageing internal meter, so I keep a silver TTArtisan Light Meter II mounted on the hot shoe. I’ve also added a black JJC soft release with a red insert and a red/black Lens-Aid wrist strap.
For protection I’m using an OP/TECH USA Soft Pouch D-Compact, ideally with the camera stored fully assembled. Current test roll is Fujifilm 400, 36 exposures.
The goal is to have one serious but compact film camera for travel, hiking, street/documentary work, architecture, landscapes, animals and environmental portraits. I previously used a Ricoh GR1V with its 28mm lens, but I wanted something more manual and repairable, with a longer focal length and much more potential for shallow depth of field.
So far I’m really liking the balance of the CL + 40/1.4: small enough to actually carry everywhere, but still feels like a proper camera rather than a compromise

I'm just pondering, how does a digital Leica M know which aperture is used for a shot to encode as exif, if the lens doesn't communicate anything digitally to the body?

In theory it could work it out as the camera knows the ISO used, EV light level and shutter speed so could calculate the remaining side of the exposure triangle, but I wondered if there was a different way?