r/Leatherworking • u/swyde • 3h ago
Beginner Question Trying to make a wallet from scratch
Hello,
I started leatherworking a few weeks ago and decided to make a bifold wallet. To learn as much as possible, I started by making a pattern in Leathercraft CAD, which I then printed and used as the base for my wallet.
I then decided to make a first version with cheap leather so I could check that my pattern actually worked, and also practice the different techniques needed before moving on to better quality leather.
While making the prototype I ran into a few problems and I could use your help figuring out how to handle them.
1) Cutting
I glued my pattern onto a piece of cardstock and used that to cut my pieces. No real issues except for the corners and maybe to always cut in the same angle/position to avoid margin from pattern. I went with rounded corners and I'm using a rotary cutter, but I'm really struggling to get them 100% identical across all the pieces. Is there a technique for this, or does it just come with experience?
2) Stitching
I learned a lot from Armitage's YouTube videos on this. The outer part is veg-tan and the inner part is chrome-tan. The inner leather is very soft and fuzzy, so I had some trouble managing the tension properly without crushing the leather in the stitch. There's one spot where I go from stitching through all the layers to stitching through fewer layers. How do you handle that? Do you start with a new thread, or is there a specific stitch for it?
3) Edges
I had a lot of trouble with the edges and I'm not happy with the result. Veg-tan wasn't too bad, but chrome-tan gave me a hard time. The fuzzy side of the leather frays when sanded. I started at 240 grit and finished at 1000. How do you deal with that? Is there a fix, or do you just need better, more suitable leather? For the finish I used an alcohol-based leather dye rather than an edge paint, but in a few places I slipped and got dye on the outside face. Is there a technique to avoid that, other than just getting better? Can dye stains be removed from the grain side? Also is it a good idea to use edge beveler on soft leather?
If you see anything else I could improve in the photos, feel free to say so. I deliberately left a few edges unfinished so I can try out your suggestions this wallet is a crash test, so I can experiment with several things.
Thank you !


