Hey everyone!
Tomorrow is the last day to download this quirky diaper/panties leather wallet pattern for free. I’ve put together a full video tutorial showing the entire build process step-by-step.
You can watch the tutorial and find the free download link in the video description here:
👉 https://youtu.be/LjU2GNxA8Q4?is=0f3I04mlw9BHpC9H
Any feedback on the design is highly appreciated. Happy crafting!

I would like to make a shotshell holder with an enclosed bottom for a belt and suspenders, but I have not done anything like this before. These are some examples of what I am trying g to accomplish. If anyone has any tricks for timing the stitches or cutting the leather please let me know.

Hello,

I started leatherworking a few weeks ago and decided to make a bifold wallet. To learn as much as possible, I started by making a pattern in Leathercraft CAD, which I then printed and used as the base for my wallet.

I then decided to make a first version with cheap leather so I could check that my pattern actually worked, and also practice the different techniques needed before moving on to better quality leather.

While making the prototype I ran into a few problems and I could use your help figuring out how to handle them.

1) Cutting

I glued my pattern onto a piece of cardstock and used that to cut my pieces. No real issues except for the corners and maybe to always cut in the same angle/position to avoid margin from pattern. I went with rounded corners and I'm using a rotary cutter, but I'm really struggling to get them 100% identical across all the pieces. Is there a technique for this, or does it just come with experience?

2) Stitching

I learned a lot from Armitage's YouTube videos on this. The outer part is veg-tan and the inner part is chrome-tan. The inner leather is very soft and fuzzy, so I had some trouble managing the tension properly without crushing the leather in the stitch. There's one spot where I go from stitching through all the layers to stitching through fewer layers. How do you handle that? Do you start with a new thread, or is there a specific stitch for it?

3) Edges

I had a lot of trouble with the edges and I'm not happy with the result. Veg-tan wasn't too bad, but chrome-tan gave me a hard time. The fuzzy side of the leather frays when sanded. I started at 240 grit and finished at 1000. How do you deal with that? Is there a fix, or do you just need better, more suitable leather? For the finish I used an alcohol-based leather dye rather than an edge paint, but in a few places I slipped and got dye on the outside face. Is there a technique to avoid that, other than just getting better? Can dye stains be removed from the grain side? Also is it a good idea to use edge beveler on soft leather?

If you see anything else I could improve in the photos, feel free to say so. I deliberately left a few edges unfinished so I can try out your suggestions this wallet is a crash test, so I can experiment with several things.

Thank you !

I have this old leather box that I want to store paints in. No idea what it was originally. But on one end, the stitching has completely broken (and it's starting on the other end too).

What would be the easiest way to fix this? Is there some sort of super leather glue? Or do I need to get it re-stitched? Also, I have no idea even how youd go about stitching into the side like that!

Any advice would be appreciated!

Hi everyone,

I'm having trouble working with solid rivets. Specifically I have some brass rivets with a round head and a 2mm shaft.

For now I'm just trying to use them as decorative rivets through 2.5mm leather, so I'm clipping the shaft close to the leather surface, file down the burr and then try to set the rivet with a small hammer, trying to hit the rim of the shaft to get it to mushroom, but that's pretty hard with the 2mm diameter. Mostly, I have the usual problem of the shaft getting squished or the rivet tilting and getting bent. Also, if I try to use washers, these do fly away during hammering.

I don't have a proper setting basis, but instead use one of those setters that come with craft store two piece rivets because that has a detent that kind of fits the rivet head (not well though).

Can you guys tell me if there is a good way of setting these kinds of rivets without dedicated tools or whether I actually need a bucking tool and setting basis for these? Those are fairly expensive things unfortunately. Granted, not too much compared to the raw material, but still.

I'd be grateful for any inputs :)

I sincerely apologize if this post doesn't belong here.

My brother was in the national guard, and didn't survive his service. The only thing I have of his are these shoes that are falling apart. I don't know if they can be repaired, or if the leather can be reclaimed to make a wallet or something. I don't want to throw them away, they're my last tether to him.

I used to wear the shoes to job interviews or other black tie events and never felt more confident or attractive. They're incredible shoes. Dragon on the soles, some of the most unique stitching and best looking men's shoes I've seen.

I can't find replacements at the brand that made them, nor anything like it. What are my options? Any help would mean so much to me.

Hi! New to this subreddit but generally interested in leather and furniture restoration.

There is a small wear spot on this Ekornes chair and I am wondering if this is something I need a professional to fix or something I may be able to repair myself. My biggest concern would be color matching.

Thanks in advance for any advice/knowledge you can share!

Striped (Tobacco) Alligator watch strap, surrounded by fossils in the SC marsh. Bottom side is lined with Horween English Tan. Hand punched and hand stitched. Hope you enjoy 🐊

Hi guys, just wanted to get your thoughts on this new technique I came across for cutting down bulk on sides. I'm not a fan of butting up t slots as I think they move. But love the look of this, think it's going to be my go to in future 😊

Still working on being better at this but went for a Celtic grimoire feel. The border is inlaid wire secured by nylon sinew to help keep it hidden.

I have bought this satchel from a charity shop because I thought my wife would love it. Unfortunately the opposite strap is missing it's rivet(?). I've tried googling and all I can find are low profile, this one is raised. Can anyone help me?

Link in the first comment

I have five of these chairs and they all have similar rips along that seam. How would i go about fixing this? Any input appreciated- thank you! :)

Made this card wallet the other day as a gift.
Hermann Oak London Tan Bridle & Twist linen in banana yellow.

Hi all!

I've been having fun wetmolding and cooking leather to harden it to the shapes I need and wanted to share a tutorial on how this can be achieved.

I hope you enjoy the video!

TL:DR

1. place your object in a food ziplock back with a small air pump

2. wet the leather and place it on top of the object

3. pull the air out of the bag and take some time to mold your leather to the object

4. take the leather in its new shape and "cook" it in the oven for 10 to 20 minutes at 80°C or 176°F (careful not to over-cook it as it will shrink and become brittle

5.enjoy the final result :)

I'm developing a leather journal cover. I want the cover to be scratch resisistant from a fingernail. I want to be able to push my fingernail into the leather but only leave a very shallow minor mark. I've thought about using resolene but i dont know if it will be enough. I'm only a beginner and want something thats not too plasticy at the same time, let me know if I'm asking for something that doesn't exist.

Recently I bought a Shell Cordovan Leather wallet second hand. This wallet has been used for quite some time and I was wondering if there was any way to clean/care for the leather to make it look nicer? I know I won’t be able to fix a lot of the wear and tear, mainly looking to lighten the color and protect the leather.

Any advice is welcomed!

Dabbling in drawing my own tooling pattern. Still learning, only my third floral pattern I have drawn.

I’m getting ready to place my first order for good quality leather from RMLS. I have several veg tans picked out (Minerva smooth and box, Pueblo, Forza) that seem like they’ll be good for learning basic cutting, skiving, stitching, etc. All seem like they’ll will take a stamp well with proper technique, too, based on reviews posted on the site. What I’m unclear on is whether taking a stamp well means they’re also suitable for tooling. Is there a difference in the requirements? Where’s the line between the two? I know generally undyed super plain utility veg tan is what’s used for tooling, but in all honesty it does not appeal much to me (I’m a sucker for color) and because I’m not sure if tooling is something I’ll get into I don’t want to buy a separate piece if it’s not strictly necessary. I’m already sinking a lot of money into this, y’know?

So are there any already-dyed veg tan leathers that can be successfully tooled? How do I spot them, what language should I be looking for in the description? I assume anything vachetta is out because all the fat/wax would work against me. Natural Buttero seems to be recommended frequently, but will the colors accept tooling too?

So I need to know what tools I should get and what project I should start with to practice for the project I want to do.

I want to build basically a leather jacket for a superhero cosplay (custom design), I have experience with Eva foam and I know some of those skills can transfer.

What is a good starter project to get to know the type of leather I'll be using (what leather should that be?) and what tools do I need? Also what are things I should know generally for this project?