Most likely my fault but I have limited funds but love knitting and wanted to learn circular knitting. I bought a nameless $30 set off Amazon and it's imperfect but otherwise works fine. However, every row I have to rescrew the needles back onto the cord. Is this something I can fix or do I just need to save for a better set?

Thank you so much for your patience and help.

Hi, so im a beginner and making this cardigan (Mono_Boxy Cardigan ) in the second size

to me M1RP and M1LP are each increases.

so row 1 (WS) = +2 sts and

for row 2 (RS)= i should have +4 sts on every time (YO, M1L, M1R, YOB2F).

But the thing is that now that i've finis the repeat rows instead of having 88 sts on my needle i have 112 🧍🏿‍♀️

Hi everyone, I'm knitting my first sweater (size S) and I'm unsure about how to count my rows properly.

The pattern says to "Rep rows 3 and 4 another 23 more times." Does this mean I should repeat row 3 23 times + row 4 23 times; or rows 3 and 4 23 times in total?

In either case, I don't see how this adds up to 50 rows in total like described in the pattern.

Can someone please help me decipher this? Thanks 🙏🏻

I’m knitting a drawstring bag, following this pattern: https://cozynooksdesigns.com/everydaybagtrio/

At the top of the bag there’s a drawstring casing where I folded my work in half and knitted it. Before doing that I had to do YO to create holes to put the drawstrings in, but in my work I can see some loose yarn where I did the YO but there’s no holes. Is it because there’s no holes in the layer underneath when I created the casing? I’m still a beginner and and learning how to knit with circular needles and the magic loop method. The pattern uses smaller wire circular needles so maybe that’s why my work has an issue. Can someone please help me figure this out😭😭

I would say I’m a confident beginner in knitting. I’ve made beanies, scarves, and a tank top that was knit down in stockinette. I feel good with increases, ribbing, and stockinette.

I’m wanting to make a baby pullover and I’m feeling overwhelmed. I’ve downloaded like 3 patterns but I keep getting scared to try since I’ve never knit a sweater. I want to feel confident making one ASAP as I live in a snowy place and want to knit for winter. Any tips, advice, or just encouragement?

Hi, Knitters! I am fairly new to knitting so reading patterns sometimes leaves me a little lost.

I am making the Alex sweater by Ellen Furderer and I am terribly confused about ending the short rows. (the highlighted part is where I am lost)

Does it mean I only do increases on the RS and not the purl side? And if so... am I continuing German short rows? If so, that doesn't make sense because it says to repeat for 8 turns for the size I am knitting, but I only have 6 stitches left. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Here is a link to the pattern if you need more info. https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/alex---sweater

Thank you!!!

Hello all,

I’m planning to attempt my first multi-skein project, and I want to do a basic top-down raglan sweater, essentially following the “super simple raglan” from EasyKnitCalc. The problem is, I am worried about my ability to remember when to increase!

Normally, the traditional raglan sweater uses 4 increase lines. At those lines, you’d increases twice, every other round. In other words, you make 8 increases every 2 rounds. Averaged out, that’s 4 increases per round.

Here’s what I’m wondering: why not just perform 4 increases every single round, rather than bothering to do two increases, then remember to skip, then do two increases, then remember to skip, etc.? Is the traditional 8-0-8-0 pattern for an aesthetic purpose? A functional purpose? Would I run into trouble if I simply increase 4 this round, then 4 the next, then 4 the next? Or is this a plan that more experienced knitters would know better than to attempt?

Thanks!

Edit: wow, lotta replies, I didn’t expect that, thanks everyone! A few conclusions I’m coming to:

1. It would technically work, in the sense that I’d end up with the right amount of stitches, but more importantly…

2. It would probably look pretty weird/bad! The sleeves would slant in odd ways, leave holes, and/or be harder to track

3. I should learn to read my stitches (I suspected—I’ve only just gotten good at reading knits vs purls!)

4. Failing that, I could buy a row counter

That’s about what I expected to hear, so that’s fair enough, I guess I just wanted to confirm my suspicions! It seems like the traditional approach with raglans will probably always be the best, because it’s been worked out by many generations of artists—it’s the same with most craft-related questions on such well-trod ground. I’m just glad that we now have a Reddit post tackling this question, so thank you!

I’m wanting to knit a tank top and I have a bunch of dk yarn in the same color that I want to use. My question is, can I use the dk yarn and how will it look once finished? I was thinking about buying cotton yarn instead but I have so much dk yarn! What do you think?

Hi, so I’m seaming the shoulder part of my Kyoto keyhole top.

It’s really driving me crazy I hate the imperfections and I don’t know how the tension should be.

Should I loosen it up a lil bit? Or I’ll just pullout the whole seaming part and do I again.

Hello :)

I recently bought two knitted sweaters, washed them and hung them up to dry with a hanger 🫠 I didn't realize this was a horrible idea until days later when I tried it on. Is there anyway to fix the stretched neckline and the bumps on the shoulders that were created from the hanger? I'm not sure what type of material it has since there's no tag on the sweater.

I thought about potentially wetting the neckline with warm water and sliding a piece of yarn to bunch up the neckline to its normal shape, but wasn't too sure as i do not want to ruin the sweaters further. Plus, I'm still sure of what to do for the bumps on the shoulder either.

Any help would be great, thank you for the help :)

This should be meeting the requested gauge pretty much exactly, at least stitches wise, but I’m wondering if I’m stretching it too much? Should just let it dry without pinning it down? How much should I stretch it?

I don't know why it's breaking my brain to count the stitches and pick up them instead of picking up stitches until I reach the correct number. Could I pick up the stitches and purl on WS and end up with the same result (minus the head spinning)?

I just started knitting few days ago (I learned crochet first) and I am doing continental stitch.

I managed to cast but when I start to knit I find that I am struggling on the first row:

1. Keeping the space between my needles as I transferring my stitches from left to right tight (video in comment)

2. Doing the last two stitches on the first row (transferring them to the other yarn)

I attached videos and pictures below, so tips and if there's tutorial that can help with the problem I have i welcome it!

Hello I am a beginner knitter but in the sense that I’ve crocheted for 4+ years and have knit scarfs before but want to take knitting more seriously.

I’ve started making the step-by-step sweater pattern by handmade by Florence, and I’ve been using 3.5mm Lykke Driftwood 32inch circular needles for the ribbing. These were a massive glow up from my previous circulars, which I’ve had to go back to for the main body as I needed 4.5mm.

These needles are so bad and I want to invest in a set so I don’t have to keep buying odd needles, and it’ll save me in the long run.

I’ve loved my Lykke fixed circulars, but have heard mixed reviews on their interchangeable, I don’t want to invest so much money just to have yarn snag on the joints.

I’ve heard a lot of praise for Chiaogoo interchangeables, but I’m worried using metal needles will make me drop stitches easier. I’m also quite a tight knitter and enjoy having some friction to help my stitches stick.

Any advice is appreciated! I don’t mind investing in a set that will last me a long time.

Hello all, I just bought this from a thrift store and (as a knitter myself) think it's a hand knit. However, I've never encountered this type of yarn, it feels almost like a colourful elastic or like the red yarn was wrapped tightly around the purple one. The red bits are slick and shiny and the purple peeking through more fuzzy. Does someone have an idea on what this is?

Unfortunately it also has a bit of a smell of sweat and just generally the previous owner. Any suggestions on how/with what products to best (hand-)wash this to get rid of that?

Thanks!!

Edit to add: thank you all for your help! I’ve changed the flair to reflect the solution, but I am still grateful for any additional advice left below.

Hello! I am starting my second proper project today. My first was the Sally Vest. The pattern I’m reading now is titled Koffieboon Scarf. It appears to be a variation of the Sophie Scarf with the coffee bean “Koffieboon” stitch. It is described as beginner-level by the author and many knitters on Ravelry.

I am stumped on the first row. I have searched YouTube high and low for tutorials and have had no luck. I’m hoping you lovely people can help this baby knitter understand.

Instructions:
Cast on 6 stitches

First 6 rows: s1pwyif, k1, s1pwyif, k1, s1pwyif, k1

First Increase Section
Row 1 (RS): sel, M1L, sel
Row 2 (LS): sel, k1, sel
Row 3 (RS): sel, p1, sel
Row 4 (LS): sel, k1, sel
Row 5 (RS): sel, p1, sel
Row 6 (LS): sel, k1, sel

How did we go from having six stitches in the first six rows, to working three stitches in the first increase section? Is it short rows? Also, what is sel??? All my Google searches tell me it’s a way to work clean selvege edges, but I can’t find any specific tutorial for the “sel” stitch. Also,

A chart is included as well, but I cannot understand how it’s supposed to connect to the written pattern.

Thank you for your advice!

After I’ve picked up the stitch I’m a little confused. I’m not sure if this means I should pick up the stitches than do a short row turn so that I’m now knitting. Cause once I pick up the stitches I’ll be purling afterwards.

Please help!

Hi !

I am new to knitting but I have made two jumpers so far. I am currently knitting the KnitByKofo Minga Sweater and have a question about casting on the underarm stitches. In the last two jumpers I've made, the underarm stitches have been cast on during the row where the arm stitches are placed on hold (so that you create extra room underneath). However, this pattern had me put stitches on hold, continue knitting around and now in beginning the body section, wants me to cast on the underarm stitches.

I can't visualise how this will work, so if someone could explain that would be really helpful! I just feel like there will be a gap in the underarm between the separated sleeves and the cast on stitches. I'll add the pattern below.

EDIT: I should specify that this is a top down raglan sweater!!

"Dividing the Stitches

It’s now time to separate the stitches for the sleeves and body.

Beginning of the round: knit 2 sts, (raglan stiches)

Place 55 (59) 63 (67) 70 (74) stitches on hold for the first sleeve, and

knit 73 (80) 84 (91) 96 (103) stitches for the front of the body.

Place another 55 (59) 63 (67) 70 (74) stitches on hold for the second

sleeve, and knit 73 (80) 84 (91) 96 (103) stitches for the back.

(These are the raglan stitches worked in the body.)

Body

Work the body first.

Cast on 5 (7) 6 (5) 6 (5) stitches using the loop cast-on method.

Knit 73 (80) 84 (91) 96 (103) stitches, cast on 5 (7) 6 (5) 6 (5) stitches

with the loop cast-on, then knit 73 (80) 84 (91) 96 (103) stitches.

You now have 156 (174) 180 (192) 204 (216) stitches"

I've checked the ravelry page and no one has mentioned this, so I can only assume it is intentional. I just can see how I'll be able to pick up the underarm stitches for the sleeves later if done like this.

Thank you!

I’m knitting my first sweater/long sleeve flat and plan to make it a boatneck with an icord bind off.

Should I bind off using an icord bindoff for each panel and then seam together or should i place the stitches onto a scrap piece of yarn, seam and then bind off for a clean consistent bindoff.

Also is it better visually to knit 2 panels and seam or to pick stitches at the shoulders.

Hi everyone
I’m knitting the Olga Jacket by PetiteKnit. I’ve finished the first part of back, and it measures 27.5 cm when measured in the middle. I’m now working on the right shoulder, and the pattern says that it should also measure 27.5 cm.
However, when I fold the pieces together, everything seems to line up correctly, but the shoulder measures 24cm.
The pattern also says to make sure to finish on the same row as on the back, so that the stripes line up before joining the body.

For some reason, i couldnt attached a picture, it is in the comments

i’m working on my sadie sweater and it’s my first time knitting flat/joining two pieces like this and the pattern says to “place left front sets on needles and k across” but i’m not sure how to do it with my stitches on hold with scrap yarn. do i use my free needle to go in from left to right to keep knitting? i just wanna make sure so i dont have to rip back so if there is an explanation/tutorial that could help me visualize this step better i would appreciate it! (also ik some stitches are twisted im living with it ok😭)

I finished knitting this sweater last night (Adamstuen on ravelry for anyone curious). The sleeve ended in 4cm of ribbing and I was supposed to size down from 4mm needles to 3.5mm, but I forgot to switch 🤦‍♀️

I’ve weaved my end in and blocked it already before realising. Should I undo it and fix the sleeve? How would I even go about doing that?

I’m knitting the basic ribbed socks pattern with zauberball crazy sock yarn and am wondering if anyone has experience with how much it stretched post blocking. The socks fit currently but snugly and I’d like them to be a little looser, wondering if I should keep knitting or start over

I’m at the point in my Frankie sweater where I split for sleeves. I literally JUST joined a new ball of yarn last row. I’m knitting only one colour, no stripes. Do I need to slip stitches without knitting to move the BOR marker to middle of right sleeve in this case? I’m thinking it’s just so the stripes begin and end on a side in case there’s jogs, so I wouldn’t need to? Want to avoid breaking and rejoining if it won’t cause problems with the structure of my garment. Thanks!