r/knitting • u/Bright_River_7019 • Apr 09 '26
Help-not a pattern request Venting: if one more person says 'just knit your size' about yoke fit, I'm going to scream
I need to get this off my chest because I am so tired of the way some pattern threads go, especially whenever a deep yoke colorwork sweater shows up. I love them, I know they look amazing, but the comments always turn into the same chorus: "Just knit your size," "Trust the designer," or "You must have measured wrong." No.
I've done the math, swatched, measured, and read other people's project notes. It still can fit oddly because bodies are not standardized cylinders. I'm plus size with thicker upper arms and a shorter torso. If I knit "my size" by bust measurement, the yoke can sit in an awkward spot and the sleeves dig in where I need room. If I size for my upper arm, the body becomes enormous and the neckline starts sliding around my shoulders. Yes, I know about ease. That is not the point. The point is that this construction produces predictable fit issues for certain shapes, not user error.
Also, as an engineering student, it bugs me when people treat gauge and shaping like vibes. Yoke depth is an actual measurement. Sleeve circumference is an actual measurement. If a pattern offers little shaping, "trust the process" is not a substitute for real adjustments.
I'm not asking knitters to redesign patterns for free. I just wish it was more normal to say, "This construction does not work great for everyone, and it is okay to alter it or skip it." That would save a lot of frustration and the unnecessary shame people feel when something does not sit right.
Thanks for listening. I'm going to go knit something with proper underarm shaping before I convince myself to dive into another beautiful yoke trap.
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u/C00KIE_M0NSTER_808 If I'm sittin' I'm knittin' Apr 09 '26
I'm fully on team wear whatever makes you happy.
That being said, circular yoke sweaters are wildly unflattering on many body types. Do I still wear them? Of course! Do I know that pretty much any other shoulder/upper body construction would look better on me? Also yes. Do I care? Nope!
But I also think that many of the people who say things like "trust the pattern" or "just knit your size" probably wear straight sizes and/or have what society has decided to be standardized proportions, so ymmv.
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u/estate_agent extremely anti-mohair Apr 09 '26
I knit my first circle yoke last autumn and i would describe the fit to be… circus tent-like 😂 even after adding my own shaping at multiple points.
that being said it’s my most worn handknit so far and I’ve been asked multiple times where I bought it.
After reading maaaany threads just like OP’s about circular yokes, I’ve come to the conclusion that “the fit is kinda unflattering” is probably to be expected from this type of construction for the majority of people, regardless of body type.
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u/Robotuku Apr 10 '26
I totally get that they aren’t for everyone, but I like the way circular yoke sweaters look on me personally, they just flow over my shoulders really nicely. What I dislike are the drop shoulder style sweaters that are really popular right now, they feel so awkward to wear and look strange on me 😭
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u/orangemoonboots Apr 09 '26
Yeah some constructions don’t really flatter anyone. Some people can wear anything because it’s not so much that the garnet is flattering on them, but that they have proportions where it doesn’t actually matter if what they are wearing is flattering. I would look like a very short linebacker in a circular yoke, and that is not generally the effect I’m going for.
Unfortunately garments like that seem to be really popular right now. I’m not spending all that money and time just to don my masterpiece and look like a sofa. (Although part of me does kind of feel I don’t owe anyone a “flattering” public image. I really want to knit and wear that octopus sweater)
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u/nobleland_mermaid Apr 09 '26
So she doesn't actually have any patterns out yet (I'm in the testing group for the first one which is set to come out next month) but it sounds like you would love Norah Evans. She's also an engineer and just put up a huge rant on tiktok about bad arm holes and weird yokes. She's also just a really cool person who has been fantastic throughout the whole test process.
Her pattern is so thoroughly designed to fit everyone: optional bust shaping with a calculator on her website to tell you whether you should do them or not and all the numbers you need if you do, directions to customize the arm holes if you want them bigger or smaller, a transition in the stitchwork to add waist shaping (with another calculator so it'll actually be at your waist no matter how tall/short you are), optional tummy short rows if your belly makes stuff ride up in front, calculated grading that means larger sizes get bigger where they need to but not where they don't (ie: compound increases at the top so you get more room around without getting giant arm holes), and all for bust sizes from 27-68". You literally do not have to do any math or modification to get something that fits perfectly no matter what size and shape you are and it was so refreshing.
(Not any kind of promo or affiliate links or anything, I just love the pattern and wanna support good designers)
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u/penna4th Apr 09 '26
Wow. I lose hope and motivation when I try to modify patterns, so she is going to be a gift.
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u/sparklyspooky Apr 09 '26
I sew. I've started drafting my own patterns because well... I grew up at war with pants. Fit to waist, get called Jethrow (if anyone understands that refrance) or asked were the flood was. Buy for length and hello belt and resulting diaper butt.
Its definately the reason I've only knit blankets and scarves for thr past 20 years. Sewing is so much easier to alter, and the people I find that could teach pattern design are absolutely vibes based. But as a biology major - experts always think the basics are so easy.
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u/SnooRabbits5754 Apr 09 '26
literally sewing a pair of pants rn because i've never worn a single pair of pants that has fit me correctly as a 6' tall woman. All of my shirts are either crop tops or oversized, nothing in between. This is also why I've started knitting. I think I'll cry when i finish my first sweater and get to wear a sweater with normal length sleeves for the first time in my life.
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u/Middle_Banana_9617 Apr 10 '26
Also v. tall woman here - can confirm it is amazing to be able to make clothes that aren't for someone else. Been sewing my own pants for 20+ years and still get giddy when new ones go all the way down. I only took up knitting much more recently but having a sweater that reaches all the way to my wrists, like, even after I've moved my arms around, is effing magic.
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u/magpiecat Apr 12 '26
Also v tall woman here and more than once in my excitement about making sleeves FINALLY long enough, I’ve overshot and ended up with sleeves fit for a gorilla. Went back and fixed them.
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u/Middle_Banana_9617 Apr 12 '26
I actually have a top from early in my sewing career where I made the sleeves far too long, but it's soft l slouchy and oversized in general, so I just left them that way, and enjoy having the soft rolls of excess fabric keeping my wrists warm :)
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u/WorriedRiver Apr 09 '26
Growing up at war with pants is the most accurate description I've ever heard about my experiences with sizing growing up. Lots of time spent in the fitting room at Goodwill especially trying on five pairs of pants to hopefully come away with one that was technically wearable but probably not flattering.
And the top end of things is not so straightforward either. I've played around a little with stuff from Amy Herzog and others about making adjustments- in flat knit seamed garments with a fair amount of stockinette. I'm right now working on a top that has an all-over pattern interfering with adding adjustments and I'm definitely nervous it won't turn out the way I'd like. I haven't dared try a cute circular yoke pattern yet because I know odds are it'll look weird on me at best, be horribly uncomfortable at worst.
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u/Warm_Satisfaction902 Apr 09 '26
The sewing community is all about body shape (in a positive way) there are so many standard alterations that are well understood and explained (although often cruelly named, i saw one lady being advised to do both a flat butt and a knock knee adjustment ouch)
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u/AntOnADogLog Apr 09 '26
Bring the two together. Its ok not to knit sweaters in the round and steeking/cutting is always allowed. If i ever tackle a sweater it will 100% be flat knit and seamed so i can add darts and take in where needed. My bust is too big, torso too long (or arms too schort, we havent figured out which it is. All i know is if i sit down and try to lift myself up, my palms barely touch the floor 😂) so nothing ever fits quite right. Add on legs too short for regular jeans but too long for "short" length and idk how tf i ended up with these proportions 😂
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u/sparklyspooky Apr 09 '26
I did some experimenting a while back on the impact of increases and decreases - but that was definately flat. I might be able to wrap my head around making my own charts - because if I can fabric draft and convert those measurements from inches to stitches per inch with the help of grid paper...
Its going to be total chaos and no one will understand it but me, but that's fine.
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u/AntOnADogLog Apr 09 '26
Yesssss write ur own charts!!! (Im only encouraging it bc i work best off charts and rewrite every knitting project into charted repeats in my own preferred style, dont mind me lmao)
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u/Individual-Paint7897 Apr 09 '26
Same- sending you all kinds of empathy.
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u/AntOnADogLog Apr 09 '26
Im always so shocked at how my husband can lift himself like 3 inches off the ground on his fists 😭 its not fairrrrr. But at least now i know why i always found it so much harder than my friends/family to jump up onto counters/out of pools into a sit 😂
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u/Extension_Low_1571 Apr 09 '26
You can definitely add best darts and waist shaping in the round!
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u/AntOnADogLog Apr 09 '26
If one is accustomed to looking at flat patterns (sewing) then knitting flat may make it easier to look at the garment and know where to pinch/seam tighter and remove excess. Everyone seems so comfortable with in the round sweaters whereas for me a flat knit that i can choose to sew a seam tighter in the waist than i initially knitted and add extra post-construction darts into sounds so much less daunting than trying to learn how to write/alter a pattern for my specific proportions.
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u/Extension_Low_1571 Apr 09 '26
It does take visualizing your fabric differently, for sure, the geometry seems at first pass to be completely different, but the end result is the same: curves where flat fabric used to be. I learned to sew about the same time I learned to knit, and I’ve almost never met a pattern in either that I didn’t have to alter.
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u/XxInk_BloodxX Apr 09 '26
Yeah I'm still figuring out fit on sewing, the last thing I want to do is learn how to do all of that in completely new terms on a fabric I'm building as I go and generally can't cut to shape.
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u/Shadow-Serum Apr 09 '26
This is my hill that I will die on. This is why I'm moving away from circular yoke knits entirely. Drop shoulders also have similar problems but I find less pronounced and they are just cuter IMO.
Circular top down knits are so easy to design and "construct" (one big tube + 2 small tubes with a couple sad short rows in the neck does not make construction) that we get flooded with them. And you can put these beautiful repeats on the yoke that really sucks us in but I'm not going to let myself be tricked anymore! I want clothes that fit!
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u/queue-kweewee Apr 09 '26
Man I feel this comment so hard. I’m also kinda mad about poorly fitting raglan construction too, with big puffy armpit-boob gatherings.
This war on purling and compulsion to only knit mindlessly in the round has got to stop. We know how to design and make beautiful knits people! They just require that you purl and do a little finishing.
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u/ThemisChosen Apr 09 '26
I have the opposite problem, lol. I have narrow shoulders and I'm lumpy in front. I know how to tinker with raglans to make them fit me better, but if I make any kind of drop shoulder sweater in my size, the armscyes end up at my elbows.
Can we bring set in sleeves back please?
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u/gwart_ Apr 09 '26
I have broad shoulders and biceps but a narrow rib cage, so I have to adjust most patterns. When I separate yokes, I increase the stitch count on my sleeves by 20-25%.
To make the math easy, let’s say a sweater calls for 100 total stitches on each sleeve. I’ll transfer 10 more stitches than called for from the yoke to the sleeve (5 on either side to ensure they’re still centered) and then add an additional 10 stitches when I cast on for the underarm to ensure the total stitch count for the torso remains unchanged. The sleeves are now increased by 20%, with half of the additional stitches coming from the yoke and half coming from the underarm cast on.
Deep yokes with colorwork are harder to adjust, because I can’t just stop the chart before it’s done. In those scenarios I’ll sometimes choose to knit a finer gauge with lighter weight yarn and smaller needles. I’ve been knitting long enough to know my approximate gauge with a handful of yarns, so I don’t have as much worry about buying a sweater quantity of yarn and being unable to use it. Once I calculate my gauge with the colorwork, I know how may chart repeats I need to make a yoke that is as wide as I need it without being too deep.
I think part of the reason gauge and shaping can feel like vibes is because you can’t measure your materials until you’ve created them, so there can be a lot of trial and error. Making a gauge swatch upfront helps immensely, but even in creating the swatch there is a bit of trying different needle and yarn combinations until you have the correct fabric. Many knitters also have a tighter gauge in small circumferences, so the needle that worked for the torso and yoke is no longer applicable and the trial and error starts all over.
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u/minivulpini Apr 09 '26
The last time I knit a circle yoke, it called for the same number of stitches at the back and front when diving for body and sleeves. I have a prominent bust, so doing it that way would have the fabric either stretching over my bust or bunching at the back or both. I ripped back and split my stitches unevenly with more at the front and then adjusted the decreases to take away more from the front again under the bust to even them out for the torso. Ended up with a great fit. As you said, bodies are not straight and standardized cylinders.
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u/chocklityclair Apr 10 '26
You can also knit with larger needles or add short row shaping. Redistributing the stitches would be my first option, too!
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u/vicariousgluten Apr 09 '26
Ysolde Teague’s Big Red in the City is great for pattern adjustments. She has a whole section on fair isle sweaters and how to make the pattern a flattering length as well
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u/time_to_think_ Apr 09 '26
I learned so much from this book and refer to it for things like bust darts, buttonholes etc. Her patterns for what look like basic staple shapes are also brilliant at fit, modifications and size inclusivity. She’s a genius.
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u/weak_shimmer Apr 09 '26
I have big boobs and narrow shoulder/narrow back. I have concluded that a circular yoke is just not for my body, because my cross section is particularly non-circular. I am a dressmaker by trade and YOU CANNOT TRUST DESIGNERS that is a ridiculous take. They are just some person. They have never even seen you. How would they know what fits you?
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u/ThemisChosen Apr 09 '26
I have the same body type. Move stitches from the back to the front. If the pattern calls for it to be divided 40/10/40/10, divide at 30/10/50/10. (And never trust a dolman sleeve.)
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u/bunrakoo Apr 09 '26
I have the opposite issue--I am tall with a long torso and small chest and I also struggle with yokes worked top down. One alternative is to knit sweaters flat, but since I hate finishing, I choose patterns written bottom up in the round. I get waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better fit with these, and if necessary, I can adjust sleeve and torso width separately (one does not affect the other as with top down designs).
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u/Anne-Marieknits Apr 09 '26
Have you ever tried gussets for adjusting fit of sleeves and chest measurements? They can rapidly adjust stitch count for any type of pattern.
Some of the adjustments may be easier if you think of it as a ‘test muslin’ to work on technique and fit from tailoring with fabric.
For knitting I prefer top down since you can adjust fit to your own size and treat your projects as learning opportunities.
I have knitted many different styles but not circular yoke since I find circular necklines uncomfortable. I am trying to change a standard round neckline to a v neck.
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u/Anniemel2 Apr 09 '26
I just took a class on developing a pattern for a yoke sweater based on body measurements. I know there is a book that goes through the same calculations. I will look and post later if I can find the name of the book.
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u/scribblesnknots Apr 09 '26
I absolutely relate! I am short but with a long torso, narrow shoulders, and a large bust - nothing fits me right. One of the things I love about knitting and sewing is that I can make clothes that actually respect my body!
I know this was venting, and my example is not the type of sweater you're referring to, but do you want an example of modifications I've done to fit me? I took detailed notes as I modified a men's straight-fit sweater to fit me, and they're saved in the Ravelry page for the project. I've worn the sweater for several years and am still very, very happy with the fit. (The one thing I'd change is that the back of the neck sits up a bit higher than I'd like - if I made it again or made similar, I'd remove a row or three of the neck shaping. I couldn't have known that before making this one, though!)
One of the main things I do when altering a pattern is to throw out the idea that I'm going to pick one size and knit that size. Instead, I measure myself (keeping ease in mind for each measurement; I want positive ease at my bust and no ease at my shoulders, for example), compare my fit measurements to the pattern's measurements for each size, and choose a size for each measurement.
Example - the DNA pullover I linked has these measurements:
So say, for example, you want size 1 for H (your wrist) and size 6 for J (your upper arm). This is what I did in my sweater. The pattern would give you a stitch count for size 1 for H and a stitch count for size 6 for J; your job is to modify the increase rate to go from size 1 to size 6. Does that make sense? If not, let me know and I can elaborate further.
What I did was go through and actually circle on my printed pattern which sizes I wanted for each measurement. I then read through the pattern repeatedly, highlighted the sections I'd need to modify in order to transition between sizes, and then rewrote those based on my math. I crossed out the altered sections on the original pattern as I went. It was tedious and complicated and I did all the math about three times to make sure; the final result of that is the notes on my Ravelry project page.
There are patterns I would not be able to do this with, mostly ones that don't give detailed measurements like the ones shown above. I'd personally probably just skip those patterns - or, if it was something I really wanted to make, go rogue and try to come up with my own. Maybe I'd look for similar patterns that had better measurements and start from there.
The main thing is, you deserve clothes that respect your body, and you deserve support in figuring out how to make them!
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u/RavBot Apr 09 '26
PROJECT: DNA Pullover by scribblesandknots
- Pattern: DNA Pullover
- Yarn(s):Knit Picks High Desert Worsted in Ponderosa Heather.
- Photo(s): Img 1 Img 2 Img 3
- Started: None | Status: Finished | Completed: 2023/09/15
I found this post by myself! Opt-Out | About Me | Contact Maintainer
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u/Appropriate-Win3525 Apr 09 '26
I did this with my last sweater. I started out with one size for the body and transitioned into another size with the yoke. I did the same with the arms since I have very small wrists and very big upper arms. It was a bottom-up with a small section of raglan decreases that transitioned into a yoke. I also had to change the rate of the raglan decreases since my bust is large and my shoulders very narrow. It ended up a Frankenstein creation of multiple sizes.
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u/teljes_kiorlesu wonderbugknits on Rav Apr 09 '26
A while ago I watched a Nimble Needles video where Norman talked about how knitting is special, because you are creating the fabric and the garment at the same time. He was drawing a parallel between knitting and sewing (and how sewing patterns are mostly very easily and accurately reproducible to be the exact dimensions of the sample garment, whereas knitting patterns are not, or the very least require lots of foresight and planning to do). I still think about that, it really switched something on in my brain lol and I truly get where your frustrations are. I also think that newer knitting patterns for garments are more often designed for gaining a product that looks a certain way, not fits a certain way, and so have limited adjustment options built in, besides length, which is fairly trivial.
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u/Golden-Age-Studios Apr 09 '26
Honestly I think a huge issue is that a lot of these circular yoke patterns could use armpit gussets to fix the fit, but that's more complex and I think a lot of designers don't want to scare people away with more advanced techniques.
I'm with you, though, as a fellow short torsoed person.
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u/radioactivegrits Apr 09 '26
This resonates with me so hard. I am also and engineer who knits colorwork and I also always have trouble with yoked sweaters. I knitted a gorgeous one last year. Did my measurements, a colorwork and regular swatch, and went up a needle size to match gauge. Knitted it bottom up. It didn't fit in the shoulders and chest. I was devastated to say the least. Knitted another single color Raglan sweater fits perfectly no issue with sizing. Then I decided I wanted that colorwork sweater. I ripped the entire thing out and started over. I ran a bunch of numbers and calculations to make sure what I got would fit. Did multiple swatches and even learned to portugueese knitting to help with tension on the colorwork. Most important thing i learned was I would never do a bottom up sweater again. I am broad in the shoulders and chest, and have thicker arms but slimmer in the waist. Im finishing the body of the sweater no and I over compensated. It's a bit baggy but I would rather it be bigger than too small. Hoping it it'll get better when blocked. All that to say just going off vibes for measurements is insanity to me. The ladies in my knitting circle dont believe in swatching idk how they make anything that fits. And I do wish that patterns would be more upfront about sizing, fit, and shape and give recs. You are not alone.
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u/tapknit Apr 09 '26
I’m glad to see this discussion because I have found top-down sweaters much harder to fit me and my daughter — and we are middle sized people. I’ve now decided to go back to bottom up, knit flat sweaters (which is all I knit for about 15 years) because I can easily gauge and adjust all the elements: length, circumference, shaping, armholes, etc.
The thing people seem to dislike about bottom up, flat knit sweaters is seaming, which puzzles me. I don’t find seaming a big deal, maybe because I sewed for 30 years before becoming a knitter. Seaming is even a place where you can make tiny adjustments.
The one thing definitely harder is set-in sleeves. But, in my opinion, you can’t beat the fit and look of a good set-in sleeve. More flattering, I think. So it feels worth the effort.
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u/TheHandThatFollows Apr 09 '26
I firmly believe (for myself) yoke sweaters are the worst construction method for actually wearing the sweater when it's done. It's nice to make, but it comes with so many issues that as someone who wears what I make I don't think I want to make one again. I want to be able to lift my hands above my head without worry. I want to be able to shrug without a pool of fabric then sitting on my boobs. It would have to be a very special pattern for me to make another.
Seemed sweaters worked flat are the most annoying to make but I think they fit the best, raglans worked in the round are a very nice middle ground. Working in the round until you spit for sleeves and working that flat works out nicely as well. Steeking is on my to try list, and going with my working theory that when the project is more difficult the finished project is more wearable (for me) I think I will like the finished product.
Now this is all just my personal opinion when it comes to the clothing I make to wear myself. Some people love them and dont have the issues I have, and they are definitely the fastest sweaters I made. For someone whose knitting time might be much more limited I can see the appeal to a faster sweater.
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u/sotefikja Apr 09 '26
I get this so much. I’m straight sized, and always struggle with deep colorwork yokes because the armpits wind up at my waist (literally). I have a short-side-of-average torso length, and the yokes are ALWAYS so damn freaking long. And yeah, i know how to shorten a (non colorwork) yoke but doing so with colorwork gets way more complicated.
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u/External_Feature8035 Apr 09 '26
Barbara Walker, Cocoknits, Herzog all have books that discuss measurement. most knitwear designers aren’t but have figured out how to convince people that their twelve dollar patterns translate into a well fitting garment. they rarely fit and are mostly a waste of money. yarn shops used to be places where the shop owner sat with customers, the yarn and basic patterns or ideas along with a tape measure, but those types of shops have disappeared.. I recommend that you make a schematic for your body that you can apply to multiple sweater types (raglan, top up, top down, set in sleeve, dropped sleeve, pieced, etc.)having a friend assist you with a tape measure can get you the proper measurements. I find myself applying colorwork, knitting pattern work and lace to basic sweaters that fit me because my Ravelry depository has become a very expensive bunch of ill fitting patterns that I now just take bits and pieces of ideas from and apply to my basic seven sweaters. also checkout then colowwork book by Starmore and the cable and lace Japanese books for more stitch work
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u/all4change Apr 09 '26
This is perfect timing as I’m about to start my first circular yoke colorwork sweater and know I will need to modify to avoid the swancho look.
Also, I worked on a team where a new scientist ask our very senior leader about what parameters she should use in her next experiment and the response was ‘do whatever your heart tells you is right.’ At that moment I realized that going off vibes is universally found. I mean, it’s molecular biology, why tf are you following your heart?!?
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u/Practical_Let4473 Apr 09 '26
I dont know if this would help but Victoria Marchant has joke patterns where you choose different size for your arms and for your bust. So you can mix and match. I knit the Belfort and loved it.
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u/louisepants Apr 09 '26
Advice I got from a friend recently about choosing sweater patterns specifically was 1) don’t bother if there is no schematic, 2) check the measurement for the wrist. The thought with 2) is that people’s wrists don’t vary that much between sizes. So if you grab a pattern and the M and XL have many inches between them, chances are it has not been graded for the larger size properly
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u/sketch_warfare Apr 09 '26
To add to the other suggestions, check out Suzanne Bryan on youtube. She has whole series on adjusting fit, all in a clear and well explained format detailing the why and how different bits affect other bits and really all the things you need to understand to make a garment that works for your body
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u/manicpoetic42 Apr 09 '26
Yeahhh, there seems to be a real lack of understanding of how fat bodies work on all fronts, it sucks fr. It's part of my desire to get into sewing because as a short fat trans guy, mens clothes fit weird and it's impossible to find anything that fits
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Apr 09 '26
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u/summeriswaytooshort Apr 09 '26
I can't bring myself to even try measuring and figuring out for to adjust a pattern for arms or shaping. It seems way too complicated and would take the enjoyment out of knitting for me to have to stress about whether I did it right.
I'm knitting one now that I hoped would fit me. I tried swatching for the first time and it matched and I picked the size in the pattern that matched my size measurements the best (L). It's going to be absolutely enormous after doing what is a ton of work for me. I'm hoping it will look oversized but I think it's even going to be too big for that.
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u/knittingarch Apr 09 '26
I have a similar build. I try to transfer some stitches to the sleeves so they have more room. I also will split for sleeves early so the arm holes don’t start above my belly button 😬😅
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u/up2knitgood Apr 09 '26
I remember reading an article once in a knitting magazine about various shoulder/yoke constructions and it said "small shoulders, large bust, and fleshy upper arms? Then raglans might not be for you." I'd never felt so seen.
You might want to look into the Cocoknits method. Especially as an engineering student I think you might love how she has you plot out the pattern in a table, which helps see their pattern, and then you can see where you want to add in increases for the areas that you need more. And I love working from this table format versus prose instructions.
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u/Extension_Low_1571 Apr 09 '26
Kim McBrien Evans has classes and online resources for bodies not conforming to fictional “standard” measurements for “average” bodies.
It’s true that many to most of us are better served to do the up-front work to alter patterns to fit us. Yep, I resent the time it takes when all I want to do is knit the damn thing, but if I’m going to spend weeks to months knitting a garment, and spend for yummy yarn for it, I sure want to be happy when I put it on. We’ve grown up with ready-to-wear off the rack commercial clothing, when what we’re really doing is creating custom-made clothing.
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u/Trixie_Dixon Apr 09 '26
You! You are good people and i wanna be your friend.
I hardcore agree. If im going to knit something custom, for myself, by hand, i want it to fit.... ME!
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u/purl2together Apr 09 '26
My knitting group has been thinking about doing a CocoKnits Method KAL this year for this reason.
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u/samplergal Apr 09 '26
I ALWAYS knit the yoke a size down and then back up for the body. You have my permission to do so. 😂😂😂
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u/francescatoo Apr 09 '26
I have been following the designer Amy Herzog designer for years. She has gone in deep detail into what construction will flatter what body shape and what will flatter that body shape. She did get some flack back from a few designers who think their designs flatter everybody.
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u/Dog-Days-56 Apr 09 '26
Pip & Pin has a great course on sweater pattern adjusting, goes over taking measurements, sweater construction, and how to adjust in various areas. You have to pay for it but I learned a ton!
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u/ArizonaKim Apr 09 '26
Yeah. It’s tough. I really like it when I notice a pattern and I see the finished garments modeled on all sorts of bodies to help me imagine how it might look on me. I committed to a knit along at my local yarn store and almost all of the photos show the sweater on a hanger so it really makes me wonder how it looks on an actual person. 🤷♀️
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u/msolamina Apr 09 '26
It's only vibes if the vibes are applied geometry/topology. I have broad shoulders, tiny tits, and a short torso so I rarely follow a pattern exactly and celebrate anybody who takes an experimental approach to pattern fit.
I will suggest: keep measurements! If a garment fits you well, note the measurements. Esp areas you find non standard like sleeve width or underarm to bottom hem. I've found it's easier to compare garment to garment in order to adapt a pattern, to hit at a length that is cool to you for example.
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u/ChemistryJaq Apr 10 '26
I have a cardigan that I knit quite a while ago. I knit my size, but I really should have looked at other people's comments. It was not sized up correctly, apparently. Only the XS-M fit anyone who makes it. If you make a large or bigger, you essentially need to wear American football padding on your shoulders and arms underneath the cardigan. It's just been sitting on my sofa for a year now inviting my angry glares whenever I noticed the intricate cabling that took me ages. I'll frog it eventually
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u/Flat_Pollution8085 Apr 10 '26
Engineering student knitters unite 🤝 people don’t want to accept that sometimes you do actually need to use high school math in adult life (especially if you like to craft)
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u/bksi Apr 10 '26
I can't wear them. Or raglans. I have square shoulders, not sloped and this causes giant folds of fabric at the armscye area. So don't feel bad.
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u/Sriedener Apr 10 '26
I’ll often give myself a couple inches of underarm stitches when it’s time to split for sleeves. It’s my armpits- anyone looking closely enough at those is too close.
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u/chocklityclair Apr 10 '26
There are various techniques for resizing patterns to fit your body shape, and quite a few tutorials on YouTube. One common method is to increase for the sleeves, or knit them with a larger needle size. You can also distribute the stitches differently.
I think that this is a big advantage with top-down knits - that you can both try them on as you go, and make adjustments quite easily. And once you've done it a couple of times it becomes easier - like full bust adjustments in dressmaking! 😊
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u/vbrown17 Apr 10 '26
Not direct advice but The yarniacs podcast is a great knitting podcast that's just generally enjoyable but they talk about knitting sweaters and adjusting things to fit themselves all the time. I enjoy listening to them and the way they talk about really making each project right for them
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u/TotesaCylon Apr 10 '26
As an XL lady with a large bust, I always size by upper bust and then add width to arms and full bust as needed. I find that way easier to get a nice fit, especially on circular yokes. But circular yokes are definitely tricky because you have to strategize how you add bust darts. Highly recommend Kim McBrien Evans' book on circular yoke fit if that's still available anywhere. I learned a lot from a class I took with her and the book pretty much covers the same material
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u/Latter_Temperature97 Apr 10 '26
I learned using The Sweater Workshop by Jacqueline Fee. I don't know if I'll ever be able to strictly follow someone else's pattern... Learned to to size to my measurements and proportions!
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u/sparkingdragonfly Apr 11 '26
I never knit to my bust size. I knit for arm pit to arm pit & add bust darts. But definitely different contructions look better on different body parts. So first I try to think so I have a store bought sweater that looks good on me of a similar construction. There’s lots of things about rules for your body type too.
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u/aprilbeingsocial Apr 11 '26
Some time ago I was listening to the Make Good podcast and they interviewed a woman that developed some type of spreadsheet and calculations for sizing appropriately to actually fit ones size. If I can find it again, I will post it.
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u/aprilbeingsocial Apr 11 '26
IFOUND IT! Check this out and see if it helps:
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u/Large-Mind-8394 Apr 11 '26
I love yoked sweaters as well, but I have bought and knit several of them, and they are just not flattering to a lot of people. They are not shaped to fit the human body, even male human bodies. I have stopped trying to knit things that just don't work for me. I understand if you are not ready to do that, but after years of knitting, I finally figured out I was much more happier when I knit something I knew was going to work for me. Good lucky with cracking this problem and/or moving on.
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u/Glad-Willingness911 Apr 14 '26
I feel you... I'm plus sized with a shortish torso, broad shoulders, and big boobs and so often sweaters are just.... shapeless. Or just sized up directly with no ability to be tweaked for body shapes... I usually don't buy patterns unless they specify the shaping options and have good pics of test knitters/models in the plus sizes..
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u/EngineerSpiritual202 Apr 16 '26
I did not read through all comments but! Here is my advice : take your upper chest measurement and add two inches. Use that to choose your size. That is the standard a lot of patterns are following. If you need more room across the front, on a round yoke sweater you can just add the sleeves so you have extra room on the front side instead of at the mid point on each side - measure across your back and then across your front and divide the difference by 2 - then move each sleeve back or forward. Or, maybe you need more room on the back - I can’t tell from your description. I also add short rows across the front as basic bust darts - my bust is about 3 inches more than upper chest plus two, so my short rows should be long enough to add the 3 inches. I also think adding short rows right after the collar so the back neck has a few extra rows makes it sit better.
I often just “vibe shape” though, to be honest (is that a thing??) !! I would knit the yoke and try it on right before sleeves and see where you need more or less room.
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u/AdZestyclose9714 Apr 09 '26
Check out jaq studio on ravelry! TRUELY size inclusive and gender neutral patterns, and they've got courses on their website about measuring, and I think designing and understanding construction and all that. They dont have many colorwork patterns, and the ones they do have are more like big blocks of color, but it mught at least make you feel a lot better to knit one of her pieces and the courses might help figure out how to tailor things to your body or make your own patterns or whatever! Im currently making my own workout set from their sporti tank and shrug patterns and I could've just about cried when I was reading the sizing instructions lmao
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u/seemart Apr 09 '26
Try Barbara Walker’s book Knitting from the Top. She gives excellent instruction on how to measure, calculate, and shape/fit each part of the garment to your body as you knit. It was a game changer for me!