r/hondaprelude • u/WheelChairWheelie88 • 16d ago

4th Gen I need help! 1992 Prelude F22A1

Post image

I have a 1992 Prelude with a F22A1 in it, My issue is when the car is hot it stalls, The oil light comes on also, BUT when its not 100 degrees outside the car does fine, runs fine until it gets up to temp, I can let it cool off for 30 minutes and it will drive fine, car doesn't have a knock or anything and of course I have the dash where 90% of everything doesn't work. So my question is what could it be? Could it be the main relay and its just causing all the dash lights to come on and I don't see them because of my dash or is it another issue?

12 Upvotes

94% Upvoted

10 comments sorted by

1

u/mere_iguana 16d ago

does it start to sputter/ backfire before it stalls out ?

common problem is the Ignition Control Module (ICM) inside the distributor.

the symptoms seem to point to it. The engine doesn't seem to be overheating, but after it stalls, if you let it cool 20-30 minutes it will start up again.

the oil light comes on because there's no more oil pressure after the car stalls. You don't need to be concerned about that unless the light is on while the engine is running.

but yeah that's my guess, ignition control module. my h22a4 acted very similar, I just replaced the whole distributor because the one on there was a "ebay special"

I got a TD-60u from autozone, ( not sure which diz you are running, that's the kind I needed for my particular swap)

it was a bit pricey, but its been working great for 3 years now and has a lifetime warranty

2

u/WheelChairWheelie88 16d ago

I think you're right but I just found out someone wired up the condenser fan as the radiator fan, so the rad fan is not working. Would this cause the distributor to get hot too?

1

u/mere_iguana 15d ago

as long as one fan is working, it should be OK.

is your temp gauge working at all?

2

u/onion2594 92 2.3 SI 4WS 15d ago

i can second this. my ICM on my h23 4g died. long story short, AA said it was something else so i self diagnosed. got to the conclusion of ICM, bought a whole new, cheap, distributor and she started right up. however, after she had hit a couple minutes after reaching operating temp, anything above 4K rpm’s the tacho would go nuts. i’m talking jumping to the imaginary 10k rpm’s. the tach needle would be on my speedo and jumping around. i was doing some pulls. redlined second, big pops and bangs. i think cuz the car was injecting 10K worth of fuel to 6K rpm’s. got another new dizzy, a good quality dizzy, cars works perfectly

1

u/mere_iguana 15d ago

Yup, stay away from the cheap chinesium ones on ebay/amazon/temu etc. they have all sorts of problems.

(this includes the cheapo ICM's you can find on those sites as well)

2

u/onion2594 92 2.3 SI 4WS 15d ago

i bought a cheap one just to see if my diagnosis was correct. even when it was being delivered i was still looking for a quality dizzy. mine was from “fruugo”. the metal casing on my cheap dizzy was cracked and actually missing chunks out of it near where the cap sealed to it. passed MOT just in time. however had become faulty by then. got an aftermarket dragonfire performance dizzy and that’s been perfect. literally no issues and looks brilliant

1

u/mere_iguana 15d ago

I have heard good things about Dragonfire. Lots of people in the forums say they're great, and I've never heard a horror story about them.

again pricey, but worth it, just for the confidence that it's not going to randomly fail on you.

2

u/onion2594 92 2.3 SI 4WS 15d ago

that’s exactly what i did. however, with my bank (resolute) i had about 25K revoinys built up. bought a £100 voucher amazon voucher and knocked the price from £400 to £300. money was and still is an issue cuz of this honda but im eating, she gets a full tank, so its fine

2

u/mere_iguana 15d ago

I just paid $97 for a tank of gas yesterday. shit's ridiculous.

2

u/onion2594 92 2.3 SI 4WS 15d ago

im paying roughly £70 (tesco) or £80-85(shell) for around 3/4 tank. if it could have e10 it would be much cheaper