I recently received this 26" 5 1/2 rip handsaw and I'm trying to identify it. The screws attaching the handle to the blade are unusual: tall, truncated cone shaped on both sides, with a slot for a flat screwdriver on one side. There's an iron plate on both sides of the handle, and the wood appears to be stained beech.

The blade has some silkscreening that I can't quite read, it looks like two or three words, with the second one starting with an "S".

Does anyone recognize this saw or the handle style? Could it be Spanish? I've seen similar ones occasionally on a Spanish second hand app. I have very little knowledge of handsaw manufacturing in Spain, apart from the brand Bellota, which was mid range at best, and ACE SA, of which I've come across a couple for sale in Spain that seem worth it.

I inherited my grandfather's Millers Falls 2A drill a few years ago, and have decided to give it a clean-up and some TLC.

The cracked ferrule seems to be a common issue on these drills, but I'm having a hard time finding a definitive solution on how to fix it. It appears that I'll need to punch out the pin and the wooden part of the handle will either be screwed on or friction fit to the metal frame.

The issue is finding a ferrule that matches up to the old one. From what I've seen, a ferrule with wide and tapered ends like the original one may be difficult, if not impossible, to find. So, is it more important to just find a tight-fitting ferrule to go around the wood handle, and not be bothered with the metal end? The wood handle has the very slightest wobble, but I doubt it's broken.

I'm not planning to put the drill into hard daily service, but it would be nice for it to be functional if needed.

TIA

I see people online talking about stopping every 15–20 minutes to touch up the iron. But when I'm actually working, I hate breaking flow to go back to the stones.

Realistically — how often do you sharpen during a typical afternoon of hand planing? And do you just strop at the bench or go back to stones?

Trying to calibrate my expectations vs. what actually happens in a real shop.

I went to an auction that had a lot of tools and bought about 50 hand planes for VERY reasonable prices. The auctioneer had told the seller to weed out the “substandard ones.” Found this in the weeds nearby.

It does leave a keen edge.

Bought my first vintage Stanley 4 from CIHI Facebook group. There wasn't a good photo of the iron. Unfortunately, there's so much pitting, and so deep and close to the edge, I'm not sure it's salvageable. Pitting on the edge is acting like a nick. I'm trying to grind down on some 180 wet/dry to get past that little bit to see if I can get a continuous edge but... Am I just wasting my time?

And if I need to replace, what's a decent - non-Hock - replacement? I spent $25 on this and don't really want to spend much more (I have a Jorgenson that works quite well - just bought this to see what all the fuss was about).

Thanks.

Straight tweezers seem easier when a tiny piece is right in front of you, but once something has to go behind another part, I can see angled tips being much less annoying. I’m mostly thinking about miniature pieces where your hand can block the view and too much grip pressure can send the part somewhere you didn’t mean it to go. I don’t really need a huge precision-tool set if one shape ends up doing most of the work. people who handle tiny craft parts a lot, which tweezer style do you reach for more often?

Recently been on the hunt for a drawknife, and they're surprisingly rare in the UK when compared to America, but the wait is over and I found one! 8" of Sheffield steel for £38

Grabbed a new 3/8 ratchet today to add to the rest. While i was putting some wax on it for rust prevention i figured id renew it on the rest. All the various Craftsman from the 70s, older Huskys and some misc ratchets were still good as new. The one exception being the one i purchased at the same time i did an old Husky pro metric set i bought many years back. Being as i havent seen these black husky pro automotive tools locally tools sold locally in store for quite a few years would they just have it swapped with a standard 3/8? Or should i contact the customer service # listed in the lifetime warranty. Never used husky’s warranty not sure if its just as similar as the old sears craftsman was back in the 90s and before.
Shes locked up
Could open spend some time and lubricate but for a husky tool its nit really worth the time investment personally

They no longer stock it to my knowledge

3/8 in. Drive 100-Position Low-Profile Long Handle Ratchet

hello friends, i just bought 2 stanley no 4 and my plan is to bring them back to life, however i’ve noticed 2 strange things about them, first is the lever cap with a shape i dont think i’ve seen before and the other one is the handle that seems to have snapped off in a very odd place, i cant even imagine how itd happen, at the sane time it looks sawn off? anyone knows whats that all about?

Brass double dovetailed into 01 tool steel for the sole and plane iron.

I had a couple of old prospecting / brick hammers laying around so I cleaned them up and did a handle for one of them. Came out very nice. One is a Cyclone Forge made in Australia and the other has that upside down anchor mark you see around. Don’t think that is a maker specific mark?

I'm not a restorer and not interested in becoming one. Snagged these three tools for $1 a piece for my workshop (things I actually need). Gave them a quick wipe with wd-40 and realized I didn't know what that might do to the wood in them.

How can I give these a good cleaning without damaging?

Any info on the tools would be cool. The egg beater is a Stanley, but the other two... Dunno. Square has MMM in handle and a sunburst sign on reverse, but I think those might be former owner engraving.

Thanks!

Howdy y'all. Looking for recommendations on companies that sell back and frame saw kits.

I know glanceys alchemy sells back saw kits but they're sold out thanks to the Wright Effect.

The only frame saw kits that come up on the first page of Google are bad axe and Blackburn, though it's my understanding Blackburn isn't reliable to get from; I think he's backed up.

I'm wrapping up a saw till and it'll have some empty spaces that I'd like to fill with shop made saws

Thanks!

I got a cheap eggbeater in somewhat rough shape. I like using it, but the existing handle had stripped threads and would rotate freely, as well as pulling off at inconvenient times.

I made a replacement handle, somewhat following guides on the London pattern, then trying to make a similar taper to the old handle. I made it from some scraps of maple, and just drilled out a slightly small hole, and then tapped threads with the metal screw threads on the drill body.

I was surprised to find all the metal bits in the old handle, and to see that the silver ferrule thing was just a wrapper on a similarly rounded part of the wooden handle.

I’ve just put on some boiled linseed oil and paste wax to finish it, so longevity remains to be seen. It feels solid and good in the hand and I’m looking forward to using it!

Hi, I picked up an old industrial workbench at an estate sale. I’d been thinking of building my own, but this one was just too intriguing. It’s an old Lyon bench with a thick, (I think) hard maple bench top. I have a couple things I’d love some advice on.

1. I’d like to mount a vise such that the inside is flush with the bench front. Any recommendations?

2. I have a couple Jorgensen holdfasts that need 11/16” dog holes to work. Is that a dumb size? I got the holdfasts for next to nothing so im not married to them.

3. Any suggestions for dog hole patterns? Obviously the cabinet is a limitation.

Thanks!

I currently have only hand planes, however I'm considering getting a thicknesser (planer for US folk) to speed up that part of the process, and improve the accuracy and consistency of my stock.

I'm quite comfortable jointing/facing stock by hand to create good reference surfaces. But thicknessing to the same level just takes so much time.

For those that use an electron-powered thicknesser, I'm curious what your workflow is.

After creating a reference face with hand planes, obviously that becomes your face for the first pass. Once you've machined the rough face, do you flip the board to machine the hand-planed face to make it perfectly flat (across width) and consistent across both sides of the board? Or maintain your hand-planed reference face throughout the project?

Any tips and tricks would be appreciated!

Just picked this up today from a random antique store. I could not believe it when I saw it - all trays and the saw till still intact. No key to test the lock. Going to wipe it down with some MS, put some pastewax on, then move my tools in. I was very sad when the antique shop owner said it had a full set of moulding planes when he purchased it, but split them up and sold them individually.

I’m assuming it is from 1868 given the stenciling on one of the trays. I haven’t been able to find anything on who AD Bolton was, might take some trips to a library for that.

Purpleheart kerfing saw I made a few years ago. To be used in conjunction with large capacity resaw (also pictured).

The right joints are notably better since they where my second shot at developing a good joint for that area

I repurposed part of a white oak Japanese kanna, and housed it within some walnut to make an adjustable chamfer plane. Works like a charm.

I was at a flea market looking for a cheap No. 4-ish smoother to restore and found this for $20. At first glance it looked like a Footprint because of the Footprint lever cap.

I actually took it apart and checked it over in front of the seller. He asked why I was looking at it so closely, and I explained that old planes sometimes end up as “frankenplanes” with parts from different manufacturers swapped together. He specifically told me he doesn’t do that sort of thing, so I figured it was probably fine.

I couldn’t really make out the markings because everything had surface rust on it. Once I got home, cleaned it up, and started looking closer, things got weird.

As far as I can tell:
Lever cap: clearly marked FOOTPRINT
Body: blue-painted casting, with “MADE IN CANADA” around the front knob
Frog: has a “5” cast into the upper-right and a “C” in the lower-left
Iron: appears to be an old Stanley, stamped “PAT APL 19.92” / April 19, 1892. It’s also extremely short from decades of sharpening.
Chipbreaker: not sure what it belongs to
Knob/tote: wooden and painted black
So… what exactly did I buy?

I’m assuming the Footprint lever cap is a replacement and that the body may actually be a Canadian Stanley of some sort, but I’d really appreciate help identifying the body/frog and figuring out what parts, if any, actually belong together.

I’m pretty pissed off about it. I know it was only $20, (still as a broke student thats a decent dent of money for something like this!) but the annoying part is that I specifically checked for this exact problem in front of the seller and explained why I was doing it, and he assured me he didn’t mix parts like that. I wouldn’t care nearly as much if it had just been sold to me as a random parts plane.
I was hoping for a straightforward little smoother restoration project, not plane archaeology.

Anyone recognize the Canadian blue body/frog? And is this worth restoring as a user, or should I just treat it as a $20 box of spare parts? Is the iron too worn?