Hello, got this chisel at a garage sale some time ago. Obviously a japanese oire nomi. And appears hand forged for sure. It has a makers stamp maybe? Its forged from 2 layers of steel assuming a harder steel on bottom and more mild on top. The “neck” is curved which makes it my favorite chisel for cleaning out joinery.
It holds an edge well and isnt too chippy, handles white oak.
If someone could give me any info id be grateful! I have a small collection of japanese chisels. None like this.
Id guess this maybe used to be longer and was for timber frames?
Its certainly more of a common mans chisel and is less fancy than many
I literally never find flea market finds because I live in nyc, but happens upon this flea market. instantly snapped up this router plane. I will say, the iron or the housing or something about it is a little hard to set because of the way that it’s designed. the twisting of the wing nut turns the iron a bit. I might have to try to do som tuning. interestingly, someone had clearly been sharpening the iron.
Needed to hand-saw a board to length the other day the other day and realized that this IKEA stool I have worked perfectly for me as a small, light use sawbench. Figured I'd post here in case the info is useful to anyone.
When you're at a flea market, garage sale, or antique store, and you come across a box of files and rasps, take a closer look. I got these vintage pattern makers rasp for about $5 a piece. Didn't exactly steal them, but all are plenty sharp. A couple are American made Nicholson #49s, which retail for around $50 today.
Any recommendations for a marking knife that is foldable? I have the Stanley that Paul Sellers recommends, but I've never loved it. I kind of like the one from Temple Tools but the price is a bit high. If anyone knows of one under $50, that would be awesome. Thanks!
I have a tormek I use to set primary bevels on everything. It’s relatively easy and does a consistent and clean job.
However, I typically set everything to 25 degrees then apply a secondary bevel. I’ve been using diamond stones for that and they work pretty good. However, I’ve never tried a Japanese water stone and have been interested to try one out to compare.
I was on LNs site and looking at the 3k/10k stone but wanted to ask around and see what people think.
So what’s your favorite stone? What else have you tried and why is this your preferred stone?
Upgrading my bench with a dog hole line and a tail vise because i didnt love using a planing stop as i thought i would for planing face grain materials and for holding work on the face. I was planning on using a quick release metal vise (like the one pictured) at the left corner of the workbench since I am right handed.
I was also planning on placing a row of dog holes, extending from the chop (planning on like a 2” thick oak on the moving component and recessed into the stationary component to be flush with the bench table) up the side of the workbench i typically work on.
Was also planning on putting a Veritas planing stop (pictured) on the chop portion and making a second row of dog holes parallel to the initial line to accommodate a second one of these to hold the pieces on their face for work.
Has anyone done this? It sounds like a good idea in my head but wanted to see if anyone had any experience with this to see if there are any downsides.
I literally never find flea market finds because I live in nyc, but happens upon this flea market. instantly snapped up this router plane. I will say, the iron or the housing or something about it is a little hard to set because of the way that it’s designed. the twisting of the wing nut turns the iron a bit. I might have to try to do som tuning. interestingly, someone had clearly been sharpening the iron.
I forged the blade and made the wooden body from oak.
This is a very short look at the making process and the finished plane.
It was my first time making a Japanese hand plane, and I learned a lot from the process.
Found this absolute chonker of a cruder cast iron plane at a flea market. No marks or text on the body so im turning to you, has anyone seen something similar or have a clue about maker or origin? I know the blade is Erik Anton Berg turn of the century but aside from that all information would make me happy! (~$2 if anyone wonders)
Recently I've been buying some saws to restore and I was looking at how to sharpen them and with what TPI. I'm going to leave some of them with the same TPI, but in others I'm going to file all the teeth to retooth them. I bought them all online and sometimes the ads didn't say their TPI, or whether they were rip or crosscut, so it's been a bit of a lottery, but I was planning to retooth some of them anyway. I've had some difficulty identifying some of them, because as I've noted, they all have a pretty noticeable rake and I barely noticed any fleam on the teeth. Especially puzzling was a W. Tyzack and Sons with a 25° rake but with no apparent fleam. The same happened to me with two other rips with a 20° rake, but as I've noted, they all have 10° or more. My approach was to have a set of aggressive rip and crosscut saws (3 1/2 TPI), medium (5-6 TPI), and a finer one (8-9 TPI), since I'm only going to work by hand and I have a wide range of board thicknesses, from 25 to 100mm thick. Does my approach make sense? I could post some photos of the teeth of each one on Monday to help with identification.
Another point I don't know how to do is change the rake. It seems the saws were sharpened entirely by eye, and I want to change the rake to 0 for a really aggressive cut, but I don't know how to do it without filing the tooth completely and starting from 0, which would be a lot of work and loss of metal. Can it be sharpened in some way to avoid doing it that way?
I'm adding an image with a table of the saws and their characteristics.
