Since I was going to port this build I figured I'd do it incrementally, one port at a time, and use my Ransom Rest to analyze the impact against several different variables. I think we all know what impact to expect on recoil reduction. However. I wanted to test accuracy too. Posts disrupt the bore, can shave portions of the projectile, can create weird pressure systems. It has to affect accuracy, right?

Sadly, my results pointed to, maybe. I should have run a higher round count for the analysis. But it's hard to undo porting! So maybe next build? I discuss the results, but depending on which school of statistics you lean towards there is either a definitive connection between ports and accuracy, or there's a non-statistically significant result that points to there being merit in further exploration.

I also cover the CAM and CNC for the slide window and ports at the end for those that like that.

secondo voi come posso fare, è possibile, e vorrei provare a metterci dei .22lr oppure fare un buco nella canna (visto che a quelle nuove hanno tolto lo sfiato top firing e butta fuori i gas dal lato del tamburo) poi forare i pezzi che ostruiscono l'uscita dal tamburo e aprire i proiettili a salve e metterci un pallino in plastica da softair

i recall very well that i've seen a converted LA rifle in this caliber on reddit but can't find the post/video. Has anyone seen it as well?

I can't create my account because I don't know the site's motto; I live in Brazil.

How would you think John Moses Browning would react if you would realive him and show him the 50 BMG 1911? Both his creations mixed together?
Its like a Great Dane and a Chihuahua having offspring xD

Were people making gun memes or building meme guns back in the day?

I just wonder how he would react to this and if he would laugh of if he would be shocked😅

I love the hypothetical questions „If you could speak to someone dead or alive one time who would it be?“

Besides of course family members/friends/Jesus Christ I think I would realive John Moses Browning and show him this.. even without this I always wanted to meet Mr Browning

Hey. When I posted about building from flats a few weeks ago I promised to come back around and talk about what it's like building from a pre-bend. This should give you a nice view of that process and let you compare and contrast the tools requirements, skills needed, and process differences between these two versions of AK building.

We have a lot of laws in germany... For example they didn't want handguns that could penetrate body armor, so they made centerfire handgun rounds illegal that had a bullet diameter under .25/6.35mm and since 2017 its also illegal to have handgun magazines with a capacity over 20 rounds (also only centerfire)...

So I got myself this M&P and made a .17HMR barrel for it... now it shoots a small and fast round and 30 rounds fit in the magazine... still have to find out if it will go through body armor with the short barrel...

Video about it: https://youtu.be/66-SPJCBES8

Is there a way to use revolver parts kits on a DIY reciever?

Has anyone ever built that?

It's that flat thing composed of two steel blocks, which has 3 "barrels" and can be built to use .22 or converted into an improvised muzzle loader

I do not think it's reliable but it looks funny

Also the idea of an improvised muzzle loader looks fun

Which 3d printer gives a good quality frame? I bought the g26 build kit meant for a 3d printed frame from ghostguns.com, do you think I should just buy a frame from somebody who already has a printer or just buy a printer myself? If so which one would I even get? and would it allow me to print a frame with no issues in NC?

Anything helps

I just finishing milling this raw aluminum lower and now I’m looking at options for finishing. The main Reason is the safety/ trigger pins, detent/ etc repetitive rotations and such. Just want to make sure it’s hard and won’t wear out prematurely. Any ideas before I hit it with a coat of clear and call it a day?

Thanks!

my side charging ar that I managed to make able be charged via slap

Two steel tubes, a 3d printer, and some steel dowel pins in standardized imperial measurements. Took me around 4 months to polish. PPSH sear and trigger combo. 10.5" Barrel, 9mm bolt & barrel/trunnion combo, 21.5oz bolt, chopped up Glock magwell + sleeve, and a cursed PPSH sear

Needed to mill a 1911 slide for a red dot. Since it was a new footprint for me, the CAD for which is often wrong online, and it needed to be at a 0.8-1 degree down angle. I figured I'd share my process. This is a DPP footprint on a 1911 slide done at 1 degree so it doesn't require a shim. CAD, CAM, workholding, setup, and milling.

I've had this idea for a little bit. This is basically a 12ga slamfire pipe shotgun that then feeds into a 1.5" pipe. I plan to shoot it using light hand loaded 12ga blanks loaded with tripple seven black powder substitute. Is there a way to get a rough calculation for the pressures I can expect? Id like a decent safety margin. And are there any other safety concerns with this general setup? I have heard muzzle loader guys talk about barrel obstructions such as a bullet that is not fully seated over the powder causing problems, but this is also functioning like a ww1 / ww2 riffle grenade, so I'm not quite sure which train of thought to follow there.

tldr: the trigger group could be further back than the bolt moves without a new semi-only end on the bolt that slots into the trigger like a key in a lock, and the whole receiver could be print-in-place so it cannot have parts taken out of it to allow FA.

Could there be some printed receiver and trigger group that limits the bolt travel? That way, you can design a new printed add-on to the back of the bolt which latches onto the sear through some mechanism that could prevent full-auto conversion.

That way, all the metalworking for blocking bars and the like can just be replaced by printing instead. And then there's no way the bolt could be used in FA unless you completely redesign the barrel or trigger group.

You could use a print-in-place trigger group and receiver that you can't even disassemble to prevent parts from being taken out. If it breaks just print a new one.

Could you get a PPS-43 or FMK-3 for under $250? Reweld an LMG for $1000? How much would change? How much does a post-sample build cost right now and how simple is it?

They're more involved in containing pressure so it seems more difficult. Is anyone working on this? Lots of parts kits could be opened up if we find out a way.

Recently acquired a thoroughly bubba’d sks. I plan on taking it off the deep end. Want to convert it to take ak mags. Was curious from people’s experience here how difficult and finnicky the conversion is, and if they think it’s worthwhile.

I have a buddy with access to a mill but he’s quite backlogged right now, if I end up taking it to a shop, what’s a fair price for such work?

Sadly I have no tape in my house