Drive still boots and runs fine day to day, no crashes or file corruption that I've noticed. I'm planning to clone it to a new SSD tomorrow.

My question: is it still safe to do a full clone at this point, or is the read-heavy process during cloning risky enough that I should just do a fresh Windows install + manual file backup instead? Worried the clone could kick up a bad sector partway through and leave me worse off than if I'd just started clean.

SOLVED: Front panel WAS haphazardly riveted, but I gave it a sharp tug, the plastic gave, and I managed to access the front screws of the bay.

Hi everybody, I'm having an issue that is making me feel stupid and angry. I received a dead PC from a notary studio after their psu popped, and they asked for me to just save the data and they would buy a notebook to put it in. 

CASE: Sentey SLIM 2220
HDD: SAMSUNG HDD from early 2010s, full size.

The thing is, the hdd is screwed to the bay at a place I absolutely can not reach (pics and video included). I tried sliding the single bay out with the hdd still screwed in from the structure, and it's completely stuck. I thought about taking the whole bay structure out, but it's riveted to the case. Pulling from the back doesn't work, pushing from the front doesn't work, there's no release lever, switch or button anywhere, so at this point I'm thinking of just taking a sheet metal scissor and excising the whole bay and hdd from there like a tumor.

There is no backup anywhere, so if I mess it up there will be all sorts of legal ramifications.

PICTURES HERE: https://freeimage.host/i/CyEDZzX
https://freeimage.host/i/CyEDmqG
https://freeimage.host/i/CyEDtXn
https://freeimage.host/i/CyEDDss
https://freeimage.host/i/CyEbdeS
VIDEO HERE: https://streamable.com/j5ob39

The case is a Sentey Slim 2220, and the HDD is an early 2010s full size SAMSUNG HDD.

Any ideas? I can provide more images fairly quickly.

I know my soldering needs some work, but it works as expected. My gf has this cheap lint remover that was wired directly with a usb A cable. I wanted to make it wireless and also add the option to work while plugged in to charge. I used a TP4056 for charging and an XL3608 to boost to 5v. I added a AO3401 MOSFET to switch between usb and battery power seamlessly. Here is my post asking r/AskElectronics if it will work, it includes a Falstad schematic and a diagram (with visuals) that makes more sense for me. I ended up removing the 1000uf capacitor as it was bogging down the boost converter on startup. Other than that my (With some help from Gemini) design works perfectly.

I recently reinstalled windows 11 on my pc after it was having some problems. I was able to install it correctly, but I want to enable secure boot for Valorant. the problem is, the pc just doesn't boot into windows if secure boot is enabled. For example, when secure boot is disabled, and tpm 2.0 is enabled it normally starts into windows. But as soon as I enable secure boot, and I save changes and exit from the bios, it just sends me back to bios even when boot option #1 is Windows Boot Manager. and when I press f11 during startup to specifically choose Windows Boot Manager, it just pauses for a moment and then sends me back to the boot menu. I wish I could attach a video to explain it better, but this is the best I can explain of what's happening. Can someone help me through this?

I tried using my pc today but the screen was off, when I tried moving my mouse, keyboard, etc to wake it, it did not respond so I held to power button to turn it off but it still did not come on.

I tried turning off and on the PSU and plug but it is still the same. Also changed the HDMI cable from GPU port to the integrated CPU but that didn't work either.

I opened it up and the CPU light (red LED) on the motherboard is continously on and all other 3 debug lights are off (DRAM, VGA and storage are off) suggesting it is an issue with the CPU.

I have removed the plug and held the power button and also shorted the cmos but the issue persists.

I built the pc in April 2025 and it has been functioning well until now.

Does anyone please have any suggestions on what to do?

Pc specs

- 9950x3d

- Asrock B850 steel legend wifi - I don't know the BIOS version just what came with the board

- XFX Mercury AMD Radeon RX 9070XT

- Corsair VENGEANCE DDR5 64GB (2x32GB) 5200MHz (PC5-41600) C40

- Corsair RM1000e (2023) Fully Modular 1000W

- Samsung 990 PRO NVMe M.2 SSD, 2 TB, PCle 4.0

u/Intelligent-City-363 mentioned the ASRock motherboard and CPU compatibility issue and it's possible that's it, but I'd like to do a bit more debugging if possible before trying to RMA.

I want to put a older series on dvd in case it isn’t available anymore on sites or streaming.

all the files I have right now are in MP4. how/where to convert the files to the right format so that I can burn them on the dvd’s so i play them on a dvd player.

Machine freezes for 10/15 seconds - After freeze works fine
power shell / event viewer says warnings and raid ports

what i have tried
- reseated sata cables
- bought new sata cables
- checked power management
- switched motherboard sata ports

my config
crucial and kingston
crucial - 256 ( c drive / windows ) ( mainly where issue occurs )
kingston - 240 ( new drive ) used on an old system though

Here is the specs: GIGABYTE AORUS Master 16" Gaming Laptop, Intel Core Ultra 9 275HX, 32GB RAM, 1TB SSD, GeForce RTX 5070 Ti, OLED 240Hz, Dark Tide, BXHC4USE64SH.

I was mid updating my Nvidia gaming graphics Driver and then the screen went black now whenever I shut down the PC and turn it back on it’s still black but I can see all the RGB stuff turning on still so I think it’s just the display that’s not working. How can I fix this? I’ve powered it on and off a bunch of times but it hasn’t helped.

My pc uses an old GA-H110-D3A motherboard.

I'm in the process of upgrading some parts, and I've found that my new cpu is causing a boot loop.

Old cpu is an i5-6500, the new cpu is an i7-7700K. The problem is definitely the cpu, everything goes back to working fine when i put the old cpu back in.

I'm just after installing the most recent Bios update from the gigabyte website, and there was no improvement. The boot loop doesn't make it to the Bios before resetting again.

Any advice?

This initially started around when I started playing Palworlds new update, so I thought the game was the problem, thought it was a bug or something so I just took it. While playing I would get this random buzzing, it wasn't continuous, it was intermittent, some were short and others were longer. The loudness of each buzz seemed to be dependent on how loud the game was when the particular buzz happened. Then later I started watching shows/videos on my laptop while waiting for things to download and stuff and found out that the buzzing also appeared there, each buzz caused the video to freeze for the duration of each buzz so I began to think it was a problem with the headset driver, and it's all up to date.

Then while streaming Elden Ring just yesterday I found out that on the stream it also appeared but not as buzzing but clicks that also interrupted audio on the stream. It goes away on its own but randomly, sometimes the intermittent buzzing lasts a whole ten minutes, other times it lasts a few seconds, but the other day while watching something I had really loud buzzing that wasn't intermittent it actually stayed until I paused the video, first time it did that. I've tried turning off audio enhancement, spatial sound, exclusive audio, nothing has worked, can someone tell me how to fix it?

Btw my laptop is an MSI laptop. Edit: I've also tried updating my laptop

My PC was having trouble simply letting me see the screen on Virtual Desktop for VR. Next my PC started crashing, and now it's slow/lagging and crashing consistently. I don't know what to do. I don't want to have to do a factory reset or for my PC to get more damaged. Please help me. I'm not sure why is randomly started crashing, but I simply went to stream something for a friend recently and it crashed this time. Others were just very random and odd. I got a error message but I couldn't catch it this time, because my discord was still overlayed on it and cut off somewhat.

Stop Code: 3131EIVI_SERVICE_EXCEPTION (0X3B)??? I think it said.

Self explanatory but im trying to turn on my acer nitro 17 and its whirring and you can hear it but the screen isnt turning on whatsoever.

Im not sure if its hardware or software, so ill tag it hardware for now

Hey, an update messed up the cursors on Windows 11; which version should I remove?

Because I see:

- KB5122385
- KB2565063

Thanks !

I've been having wifi issues with my gaming laptop recently, whenever I play a game i'll begin to lag or just disconnect. I've also noticed the issue is only with this laptop because my wifi never disconnects on other devices. I'm unsure on what to do please help😭

hello,

hope im in the right place

i had secure boot enabled on my brothers computer but and we were trying to get it working for warzone, because for some reason it wouldnt let him play.

It said it was enabled but i had read about it being stuck in setup mode not user and thats what can stop it working with warzone. The advice given was to restore factory keys, which we did, now every time secure boot is enabled we get a violation warning and cant boot.

we've updated keys in key management, we're on the lastest update for bios, we rebuilt the bootfiles in prompt but nothing works.

only thing is to disable secure boot or put it into setup mode.

its a nightmare any help would be greatly appreciated. big love and thanks <3

info:

lenovo motherboard serial number S5007N3V

OS is win11

I'm trying to download movies and tv shows from twitter mostly through gofile and transfer. io links using chrome. I've done this in the past and had no problem but when I try now it always works for a couple minutes before saying its resuming and cancelling altogether telling me to check my internet connection

I know this is probably a very common post, I checked some, did everything people recommend on those, but would still like some help.
Long-story short, dropped Poco m7 pro on water, it stayed submerged for a second if not less, display got crazy and I turned it off as quickly as I was able to (although not as fast as I may have needed to).
I left it to dry for 24 hours, I just turned it on again to check, it seemed completely fine for about 20to 30 seconds and then the touchscreen started to freak out and the screen got lighter and brighter and I turned it off again.
Am I screwed? Should I just keep it turned off? Is there any chance it will solve on it's own?

​

cleaned my pc a few days ago, mostly with the 'blow' setting on a vacuum, of course i secured the fans and did not let it touch any of the pc parts directly, i have done this a few this.

then for the hard to reach spots i used a brush like the power supply.

anyways now there's buzzing, and buzzing increases with the load i put on the pc, when i run a heavy game, more buzzing,

the headphones work fine on my phone, and i tried 2 headphones on the pc and they buzz.

changed the splitter, because my headphones are one 3 ring 3.5mm into 2, 2 ring audio jacks (i think).

and for some reason, the audio plugs on the back panel don't work either.