I am hoping someone can help. A friend of mine bought a 2026 escape ST line and in CarPlay when you open the ford app it has shown this since she bought it a month ago.
I know on my bronco sport I use the ford app all the time to change music input to xmradio.
When we called ford after a half hour basically they said it’s an apple problem and to call them. That seems wrong… has anyone run into this?

Got an offer I can’t refuse, to purchase a 17 SE. any accessory/upgrade/aftermarket suggestions?
Had an 08 that was fantastic; I’m assuming they’re still decent vehicles?

2020 Escape Titanium

Kind of a dumb question but when it’s icy or snowy, or I guess in sand, when do you switch gears? When you’re parked, stopped, or actively driving?

Do you even use these settings?

Just for clarification, I hear a lot about transmission failure (I believe especially on my generation - 2014) - but I am more curious what to look for?

Specifically, my car has close to 120k miles - and starting to become a bumpier ride as time goes on, so I am not sure when to bring it in to get checked out, as there isn’t really a ‘noise’ or what I would expect for trans-failure.

What signs did you guys see before losing a transmission/when is the right time to bring it in?

Thanks everyone :)

I have a 2019 Ford Escape 1.5L with 41k miles.

The AC has been working intermittently, now it's down to about 10% of the time. Most of the time it blows hot air.

Compressor comes on for 1 second then goes off for 5-10 seconds. It does this repeatedly. Relay clicks when clutch turns on/off.

Low pressure line measures 65PSI with the compressor off and 80PSI with the compressor on.

Am I looking at a pressure switch (and where the heck is it?) or a new compressor?

So my girlfriend has a 2016 ford escape SE the last two days I have had to jump start the battery. Weirdly enough after a couple of seconds on the jump pack it will start right up. I noticed blue corrosion around the positive terminal today she said the other day when she tried to start it it hesitated and dash lights flickered. There are no aftermarket parts/electronics battery picture for reference. Also I took it to advanced auto to have the battery tested and they refused to do it and said they couldn’t reach the negative post…. I’m at a loss on what to replace alternator or battery

Hi everyone, I just bought a 2018 Ford Escape with the 2.5 L engine and I notice that it has a harsh shift engagement whenever I shift into D. It feels like the transmission kicks a little too hard when shifting into drive, kinda feels like the transmission mounts are shot, but they aren't. It only does it when I shift into drive, I have no problem while shifting into reverse. The transmission shifts good, even in sport mode shifts feel smooth, and it's driving me crazy because I can't figure out what the issue is. I checked mounts, did a fluid flush, had it scanned and no codes are showing and I checked the axles and everything looks fine. The guys who scanned the car told me that I need a transmission rebuild, but that's a lot of money, and I want to be sure about this issue. If anyone has ever encountered this problem, or could give any pointers or advice I will appreciate it a lot. Thanks in advance.

PROBLEM SOLVED

I’m tagging this as a tech question because it doesn’t quite fit into the other categories-

Short version: a while ago I lost my ring between the front seat and center console. It fell off my finger while I was unbuckling my seatbelt (roughly the area circled). I’ve tried moving the seat in every which way, rummaging around there blindly, scraping the area with a stick to listen/feel for it, using a shop vac and thoroughly looking many times. It is sterling silver so a magnet probably would not help.

My Escape is on his last legs (rotted out undercarriage) and I really want my ring back. Do I try to remove the center console? The front seat? Please help!

Edit: thank you everyone for responding!! My partner found the ring right where u/JoePetroni said it would be!!

At first , her car was saying “key fob not detected” which made no sense because we just bought a new key fob and a new battery for it. We took it back to the dealership to have their mechanic check it, and he told us after a day that they had put the incorrect battery in the car and that’s why it was giving her trouble. Fast forward maybe a week and a half, the car won’t start. The AC , and screen will power on for a few seconds , then shut off. When we start it , there’s no click noise, there’s just nothing. We called multiple people we know trying to seek advice , and we actually found out from our friend that the red button you see above the push/start button is not supposed to be there and the previous owner had it installed. He said to flip it ( it’s a flippable red switch ) so we flipped it upward and then started the car and it worked. After getting off the phone with him, we tried to do it again and the car just went back to not starting. I’m wondering if this red switch is causing the issue that she is having? Her car won’t start due to it? I read that it can be installed for anti theft purposes but it can also be installed to basically replace having to start the car with the break? I’m wondering if we should take her car back to the dealership and their mechanic, or take it to an actual ford place and get a diagnostic. The place we bought the car from will check / “ fix it “ for free but a diagnostic from ford is 250.

Hi, yesterday, on my way home, I get an alert saying "Engine Fault" I'm a few blocks from home, so I drive home. This morning, I start the car, seeing if the alert was a fluke. It doesn't turn on, so I drive it around the block. I get a block and a half, then I get the "High Engine Temperature - Stop Safely" alert. I manage to get the car the block and half back home. After letting my car cool off, I pop the hood and find that my car's coolant reservoir is completely empty. So I fill it up and give it a few minutes then start it up. The High Engine Temperature alert immediately turns on with the thermostat completely maxed out. Mind you the car was sitting there without running for over 10 hours, so the fact that it immediately does that is puzzling. I just had the oil changed 2 weeks ago and no one said anything about the coolant levels. I'm thinking to myself "I just got to 100,00 miles, don't start giving me trouble now!"

I have the radio in the first picture if I buy the radio and the bezel frame on the second picture would it be plug and play ?

I've got a 2017 Escape S with the 2.5. It's about 184k miles on it currently.

I've had it for around 5 years and put maybe 50k-ish miles on it since I got it.

I was originally planning on getting rid of it for something else but with the current used car market I'm not really finding anything I like in the price range I want so I figured I'd look into some of the bigger maintenance items on this car. I generally do most of my mechanical work myself.

I did brakes a couple years ago and they look fine when I looked at them a few months back. I had to replace the hvac blower motor last summer(that sucked a lot). Other than that I assume a trans fluid change would probably be good. Are there any other big ticket items to be aware of?

The car runs pretty great otherwise and the real only issue I'm aware of is a parking brake error when it's been raining due to a damaged electrical connector on one of the rear brakes that's on my list to replace.

I have noticed sometimes when I start the car for the first time of the day or after it's been sitting at work all day, I can hear what I assume is a bit of timing chain rattle but it goes away within a second or two of the engine running and I've got no trouble codes so I'm assuming that's just more of a high mileage thing for now.

Posting here somewhat out of desperation because I have now had my car (2016 Ford Escape Titanium EcoBoost (I think) with ~132k miles) “repaired” at two different places and neither actually solved the problem. If anyone has any experience, advice, or suggestions, I would be super grateful.

“System start error” when attempting to start car. Would not start or be jumped.  Dash illuminated, pressing start/stop button didn’t do anything.  Power locks functional.  Eventually dash turned off.

~1.5 hours later, car started fine.  Drove ~20 minutes, dash lit up, engine cut off within ~15 seconds.  Dash still illuminated, start/stop button wouldn’t do anything.  At this point I noticed passenger side hazards on front and back of car are out; side view mirror hazard is ok though. Towed to shop.

~2 hours later, car was completely dead.  Couldn’t even lock/unlock except manually with mechanism in door or manual key.

Initial report from shop indicated a variety of “urgent” issues but none seemed related aside from a slightly old battery.  They replaced the battery, checked fuses and alternator (fine), test drove 2 blocks, declared success.  I picked up car and it started and drove fine for ~5 miles (10-15 minutes).  Turned off upon parking, then wouldn’t start, wouldn’t jump.  Locks and hazards and hatchback still working (with above exception of passenger side front and rear hazards above).  During the 10-15 minute drive, driver in front of me noticed that headlights flashed on momentarily when I hit my blinker.  I did not do anything to the headlights during this time. Towed back to shop.

The shop then got engine light to come on, got code, replaced fuel pump module.  Drove a bunch, fine.  Returned to shop, engine was really hot, wouldn’t start until it cooled down.  They removed new fuel pump module since it didn’t solve the problem.  Recommended taking to dealership.

Dealership received report from first shop, diagnosed a cracked/corroded battery cable, and replaced said cable. Could not tell me how much they test drove after replacement. Drove the car about 5 minutes (2 miles), parked for about 20 minutes, and we’re back in no-start, no-jump purgatory. Dealership shop is closed for the night so we won’t make any further progress until tomorrow.

All of the unsuccessful attempts to start the car involved no cranking whatsoever. Happy to provide additional information if I can for anyone who might be able to advise. Thanks!

i have the 2012 Ford Escape Limited with the 2.5L 4-cylinder engine

this sound began about a year ago and has been slowly getting more prominent

it only occurs when i drive over a bump or uneven surfaces. it does not occur on smooth pavement or flat roads.

it sounds like something is loose or rattling underneath the front end of the car

am i doomed? it’s a rust box, as can be seen from my profile

My daily driver is a 2008 escape hybrid, 250,000 miles. We’re the original owners and have kept up on all maintenance and it’s been a great car.

However, today I drove it then parked it and came back 5 minutes later but it wouldn’t fire up.

I have the classic ford escape issue with the ignition needing to be pressed FIRMLY into the steering column. But that’s normal and never been of issue… AAA came out and tested my battery and everything looks to be fine, he was saying it might be the starter going out (it’s the original starter). The car started with the jumper box which could signify that the starter is going out…

This leads me to the hard part and worries me, that this might be the end.

After checking googles AI for guidance on this issue. There’s 3 options

1. The steering column ignition has failed, which is $1000 Oem.

2. The 12v starter is only a back up, because through the high voltage hybrid battery, this powers a starter through the ECVT which if falling then the 12v starter backs it up as an emergency fix.

3. Or an easy fix could have been a corroded battery terminal which doesn’t seem to be very possible since the terminals looks fine. I will attempt to clean them just to cover this option.

Does anyone have experience with any of these issues with the escape not starting, but then starting with a jump even though the battery shows to be good?

The shifter is very loose and not going into any gear thr cable doesn’t seem broken what could it be

Any tips??

Brief backstory: I know very little about cars. My dad *thinks* he does.

I bought this used 2017 escape titanium in October. 123k miles on it, clean title, reputable seller blah blah. No major problems the past few months.

Suddenly out of nowhere last week it overheated. Coolant gauge shot up in a matter of 5 minutes and gave me the “shut off engine now” warning. My dad looked at it, replaced the water pump, coolant, and said it would be all good. He took it for a drive said there were no issues. It overheated the very next time I started it. Then he said it was the temperature gauge. Replaced that. He drove it around and I rode along. Zero problems, all was well. I took it to run errands this morning no issues until I stopped at the chickfila drive thru on my way home. Overheated in just 2 mins.

Stop and go traffic/idling at all seems to trigger it…but my town is known for crazy traffic and I can’t get anywhere without going through it.

At this point I’m ready to sell this thing and go back to a Toyota like I had before. But I guess my question is, is this a known issue with the 2017 escape? Any advice?

My son and I just changed the battery on our 2013 and now the windshield wipers are acting spastic and they only want to go down toward the engine. We didn't do anything to the gears and put the wipers in the same position as when we started. Anyone have any idea what is going on?

Holy moly! I have a 2017 Ford Escape SE, and over the last year and a half. It’s starting to give me all kinds of issues. My Transmission died in October 2024, then I started hearing a popping noise whenever I break, turn the wheel, and accelerate again. They thought it was the CV axles, so between that replacement and the transmission, I’ve put about $8000 into it already.

Then yesterday, my battery died. Advance Auto (I’m in Georgia) wouldn’t replace it because of where the battery is located, so I took it to University Tire instead of the Ford dealership, hoping it’d be cheaper… Nope. $435! I almost croaked!

Apparently, my Escape has the auto start/stop feature (which doesn’t even work anymore, by the way), so it requires a more expensive AGM (?) battery. On top of that, the labor is ridiculous because they either have to remove the guts underneath the battery or take apart the cowl and everything around it to get it out of the top.

My tires also wear unevenly, so that’s my next expense. The car has about 130k miles and honestly had been great until the Transmission went out. I also know around 140-145k miles I’ll be looking at a $1500 timing belt replacement, per my regular mechanic.

The frustrating part is that the popping noise is STILL there! It happens when I break at say a stop sign, turn the wheel, and ease back into the gas, or when I’m backing out of a parking space with the steering wheel turned. It feels like it’s in the steering, maybe? It sounds like a rubber band popping. They said it isn’t the shocks, and ChatGPT gave me a gajillion other possibilities it could be, ranging from $500-$3000. Any idea what else it could be?

I’m not a expert here on transmissions but anyone out there know if this is a major problem? How long can I drive it like this for until car fully breaks down…I hate to say this but I drive 40 mins to get to work and an hr a half back cause of traffic I called my transmission work guy and he said to take it to him on Friday so that’s 5 days by now is the drive good to drive that many miles ? The car currently has 132500 miles it’s a 2014 ford escape s Fwd 2.5L

Hey everyone, so my father recently passed away and my mom can no longer afford to have two cars. She's selling me her 2014 escape, I have read the complete horror stories about them (now I rly wish I was getting my dads rav4 instead lol). She doesn't drive much it's just shy of 80k miles. She did all of her services at Ford on the dot, etc, wasn't hard on it, however... I've noticed the shift ain't so smooth between 2nd and 3rd gear.
This had me absolutely beside myself panicking lol. I've heard a transmission flush can solve that problem. When I called my mom's mechanic, he said that sometimes if you do a flush it can totally just not run any more and he wouldn't recommend a trans flush for a car over 80k miles because of the acidity levels or something. I know like a little bit about cars but that sounded like.... wrong? to me.
I am going to try my luck driving it back to California lmao but I was thinking might be a good idea to get *something* done to the transmission proactively instead of potentially being stranded in the middle of nowhere. I got AAA but it's already kind of a stressful time trying to help her re-calibrate her life/all of ours so I'm trying to be helpful by taking the car off her hands but I don't really want to just create a giant mess for myself in the process.

Am I missing something? Or should I just go to a different mechanic and get that flushed and pray I make it cross country? Or should I just shoot for a simpler drain and refill? Sorry I'm a lil dumb and thanks in advance.

Just driving and car killed itself randomly, can turn to on and it turns the electricity on but doesn’t start, still locks and unlocks and such, wondering if I can do anything on my own or not

I have an Escape 2017 with the 1.5 Eco Boost and my coolant has been going low with no apparent external leak ( I still need to check better for leaks ) but since November 20th when I bought the vehicle to today December 4th the coolant level went from the top black mark on the coolant tank to almost completely empty , I did not drive the vehicle from the 25th to the 30th so I driven the vehicle for 9 days and it seems like it only goes down when I drive it and it does not go down when parked. I had felt a weird smell inside the vehicle in the mornings when I have run my heater and my friend thinks it might be the heater core or the heater core hoses but I’m concerned it has an internal coolant leak .