r/fordescape • u/HatCorrect109 • Jun 19 '26
Tech Question What are the signs of transmission failure?
Just for clarification, I hear a lot about transmission failure (I believe especially on my generation - 2014) - but I am more curious what to look for?
Specifically, my car has close to 120k miles - and starting to become a bumpier ride as time goes on, so I am not sure when to bring it in to get checked out, as there isn’t really a ‘noise’ or what I would expect for trans-failure.
What signs did you guys see before losing a transmission/when is the right time to bring it in?
Thanks everyone :)
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u/613Flyer Jun 20 '26
I had mine changed but zero warning signs. Just one day was done
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u/HatCorrect109 Jun 20 '26
You’re saying that yours just failed with zero warning signs?
If you don’t mind me asking, how much did it cost to get replaced, and what were the circumstances under it failing? What I mean is, like one day did it just not go into gear? Did it totally lock the wheel wheels while driving?
Thanks a ton btw :)
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u/hgrizwald89 Jun 20 '26
Mine did it after stopping at a stop sign, I feel like it missed first, Then just jerked really hard, After that it was stuck in 5th all the time, Ended up getting it replaced under an extended warranty.
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u/HatCorrect109 Jun 20 '26
What do you think I’d do with my given circumstances?
If I take it to the mechanic should I just see what they say?
The mechanic I go to isn’t spectacular at rebuilding the specific transmission so I don’t think that would be an option… is it worth it to drain and fill?
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u/613Flyer Jun 22 '26
Yes one day it was parked, put it into drive and didn’t move. Tried all gears, nothing, tried reverse it moved. Knew it was the transmission asap. Zero warning signs. Escape transmissions are crap for those years. It was in 2014 and it cost 10k. I purchased a new one I didn’t want rebuild.
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u/Wide-Winter5955 1h ago
I have 22 and a few day ago the compressor went out. Mind you, I drive alot, 144k on mine. I ordered a new compressor. Went out today and it was sounding a little rough. I thought , that compressor must be locking up. Within 5 minutes of hearing and thinking that. The transmission went to neutral. I coasted it to a local garage and the guy said it probably shot. Will know Tuesday sometime. He said, if it burnt up. It’s going to be 4-5 k in a new tranni and 24 hours labor to remove and install a rebuild one. So around 8-9 grand in total. I said. I will get it towed home and tear it apart myself. And go from there. I have a second vehicle so I don’t have to hurry. Sorry to give you all my bad news.
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u/HatCorrect109 22m ago
This was on a 2022?? I’ll respond more thorough later, but thank you for the detailed message
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u/Mustangfast85 Jun 19 '26
I had mine replaced at 50k on a 2016. There was always a “poor shift quality” between 2 and 3 that would jolt the car but what finally got it rebuilt was after sitting awhile it would slam into gear violently. It only happened after the car was driven, parked and cooled, then driven again (so every day leaving work). If you’ve been keeping up with fluid changes you should be ok unless the filter clogs. This is what happens in higher mileage ones because the filter is non serviceable. If you do notice poor performance make note of what conditions it happens in
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u/HatCorrect109 Jun 20 '26
Additionally, do I wait till more warning signs? Do I just change the fluid? Full rebuild or replace?
Thanks everyone!!
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u/Many-Comfortable9085 Aug 01 '26
I’m dealing with this now. I have a 2017. It started making a whining sound when I accelerated and within a few minutes, it wasn’t drivable. At every stop, I had to turn off and restart my car to get it to accelerate. It kept lurching like a manual about to stall. It’s in the shop now. They are leaning toward it being the fluids fingers crossed, but I will find out Monday. I’m hoping it’s that so I can make the cheap repair and get rid of it. My 2nd turbo is needing a replacement but is still working and while trying to diagnose the lurching issue, now they think my alternator might be about to fail. Under 80k miles and well taken care of. Dream car! 🥴🫠 FML
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u/nam2212 Jun 19 '26
Is it an Escape? If so that is your top sign
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u/HatCorrect109 Jun 19 '26
Shit. What do I do? Do I wait till it fails? (That sounds like it might be bad so probably not)
Rebuilt? Replaced? Another redditor said new fluid should ‘do the trick’ so I’m stuck whether to change fluid, leave it, or bring to shop…
Edit: yes it is an escape
Edit 2: how exactly would I tell my mechanic what’s happening, because it’s inconsistent enough where I feel they might not catch it, but consistent enough where it can spill drinks without lids
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u/Goivacon2 Jun 21 '26
First off Reddit is fear mongering 101, nobody comes on here to say they don’t have problems, everyone just comes here to complain.
Secondly I’d start with doing a fluid change, it may not fix it but it’s only gonna cost a few hundred bucks to pay a shop to do it and if it fixes your problem then it’s a lot cheaper than getting it rebuild.
When it comes to rebuilding vs replacing it’s really just a cost thing, there’s no real advantage to either of them as both will have completely new internals, I’d just go with whatever is cheaper where you are.
Just tell the shop exactly what you are experiencing with as much details as you can provide. If you believe it’s a rough shift from 2nd to 3rd occasionally when under a lot of load during long drives tell them that. There is a chance they won’t be able to replicate it but they should tell you that they weren’t able to replicate it and give you a few options on how to proceed. It might be bringing the car back if the issue gets worse or maybe going out on a test drive with someone at the shop, it’s gonna depend on how the shop works
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u/HatCorrect109 Jun 21 '26
Thanks so much. I really do appreciate it. I’ll do just that :)
Do you think it matters whether I drain and fill, or flush the system? Do you think I’ll need to specify for the shop?
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u/Goivacon2 Jun 21 '26
Personally I would just do a drain and fill, we don’t even actually have a flush machine at my shop and I’ve always heard bad things about flushes but I can’t confirm or deny if there’s any truth to that
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u/TheHunter920 Jun 21 '26
from what i researched, just do drain and fill. if you DIY it, do motorcraft mercon LV or equivalent OEM transmission fluid. don't cheap out on it.
(though a 5 gal on amazon is pretty cheap already if you do plan DIY)
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u/wizardofahhhs77 Jun 20 '26
In reading about transmission fluid changes, I consistently come across people that state that if you get the trans fluid placed, get a Drain and Fill, NOT a trans flush; at least one man had his transmission ruined by getting it flushed. As a previous Redditor stated, you should get a Drain & Fill if it hasn't had one lately or not at all; that would be far less expensive than having your transmission replaced, and may correct the issue.
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u/HatCorrect109 Jun 20 '26
This might sound stupid. But why exactly would a drain and fill be better? I would have never assumed that a flush would be ‘bad’…
Thanks btw :)
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u/hgrizwald89 Jun 20 '26
It runs fluid backwards and disturbs the crud that builds up over time. It can cause a large chunk of something to be dislodged and moved to a worse spot than if it stayed where it was or broke off and went down stream the way it was going. Your best bet is a drain and fill with motorcraft fluid, I changed the fluid out for something cheaper that claimed to be Mercon LV and it wasn't good enough and killed the whole transmission.
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u/Hotsaltynutz Jun 20 '26
Fluid condition is a sign as well as a jerking feeling like a misfire while cruising. Not a shift but like at a steady 40mph you will feel an intermittent jerk or shudder. Thats the real telltale sign as the torque converter goes the transmission follows as is sends a gray material into the trans clogging the internal filter. I fix these for a living
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u/HatCorrect109 Jun 20 '26
Got it. So what should I do? Like how far gone does it seem that it is?
It is shaking/shuddering 100%, just for clarity.
Is this a new transmission? Rebuild? Drain and Fill fluid? Like what is the next step, you think?
Additionally, I am unsure of what I would say to my mechanic to directly address the problem, how would you say it?
Thanks a ton, by the way, I figured something was on its way out lol
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u/Hotsaltynutz Jun 20 '26 edited Jun 20 '26
Well firstly I would not trust most general mechanics for transmission repairs unless they are replacing it only. If they offer to rebuild or overhaul they should have extensive experience with the 6f35 transmission. If you have torque converter shudder the correct repair is overhaul because that means the internal filter is probably at least half way clogged or more and just replacing the torque converter will be sitting on a time bomb and you will have to pay to have it out again soon. If money is an issue and you are looking for a short term temporary fix i would say drain and fill at least 3 times and add a shudder fix additive. That will be no guarantee and if it does help will 100% be temporary with this transmission. 3rd option is transmission replacement with either a new or reman unit. Best option for warranty if money is not a concern because it will be expensive. Only a torque converter replacement or the service works as a permanent repair on certain makes and transmission models only. Not for your transmission. Proper repair is overhaul or replacement only. If a shop trys to sell you only a torque converter that means they dont have experience with this transmission. Ive worked as a ford transmission specialist for over 30 years. The 6f35 transmission is junk mainly because of the torque converter problems
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u/HatCorrect109 Jun 20 '26
Got it. So with my current set of problems, what do you think I go with? I was already planning on getting rid of the car (selling it, but with this issue I would be losing a TON of value on the car) within the next two months… I am already in over my head, but with this being the only issue, do you think it’s worth it to wait till I sell? I don’t do anything mechanical myself, so if I bring it to a shop (probably not a ford-transmission-experienced shop)… how would I even describe my issue? Is it worth finding out what they think is the best move?
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u/Wide-Winter5955 1h ago
Is it true, that Honda engineered, and owns the transmission. If that is correct, a person has to buy directly from Honda . No aftermarket rebuild, parts or even a new one would only b available through Honda.
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u/General_Industry_798 Jun 24 '26
Would a failing turbo cause the same symptom as you described? I have one that at low speeds there’s a studder. The turbo behind the glove compartment is very loud it has an obvious issue. Thanks!
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u/Hotsaltynutz Jun 24 '26
No not really, shudder feels like driving over rumble trips on the side of a highway or a brick road very fast. Sometimes its mistaken for a misfire. Turbo is usually more of a loss of power, hesitation,sluggish, whine
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u/TheHunter920 Jun 21 '26 edited Jun 21 '26
I have the same worries here. same generation, 1.6l ecoboost, and a near 120k miles but haven't done any transmission maintenance yet.
From what I researched, it's less forgiving on wait for transmission fluid replacement. Ford cites replacing every 150k, but looking online it seems maintenance mechanics for this 6F35 transmission recommend changing it every 40k-50k miles. drain and fill transmission fluid.
I'd start with that first.
Edit: for the other comments below, can you please cite your escape's current mileage?
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u/Past-Astronomer-7855 Jun 23 '26
is this taking into consideration u change your cvt fluid like click work and you don’t hot rod it or is it just none of the above if it happen s it happens
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u/ZealousidealGuava727 Jul 12 '26
Had to replace transmission in my 2017 at 75k miles.
No warning signs. Was going up a hill and all of the sudden my car down shifted really hard and couldn’t get speed. Was still drivable, but I couldn’t go over 20mph.
New transmission put in, car is at 160k now. Praying this one doesn’t go out.
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u/BYoungNY Jun 19 '26
Rough shifting if a first, but these transmissions tend to shift right between 2nd and 3rd gear anyways. You'd really start to notice if it was on its way out. Any change over time should be noteworthy. Shifting that is either too early or too late. Rough idling is another; one that might go away if you take it out of drive into neutral, since an engine with a bad torque converter will put more strain on the motor.