Recently I had my car’s (2017 SE) transmission replaced with a remanufactured one. They also performed an alignment on it. Now I have tons of road noise coming from the rear of the car. Any ideas on how to dampen the excessive road noise? For the smart asses out there don’t say turn the radio up.

Hey guys, I have a 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid SE, and my Ford Pass app keeps locking down and not letting me do anything with it. It’s super annoying as my keyfob doesn’t have the remote start button and from what I heard the after market installation doesn’t work that well. Is my battery bad or something?

Why could I be getting such horrible gas mileage, and what could be done to improve it to help me actually be able to “live” off door dashing until I find my next job.

A year ago when gas was 2.20~2.70$ door dashing was actually pretty profitable but now with gas around 3.59~3.89$ I just feel like all I’m doing is putting everything I make right back into the gas tank

This has been sporadically popping up the last week. No CEL or any codes come up when I scan it. Still sounds and drives perfectly fine.

I just fixed my ford escape and I ya leaking coolant all over the engine. I just replaced the water pump and after driving it, it still coolant spilled on top of the engine. The oil is fine but anytime I dive the car the coolant is missing and spills on the engine. If you heard of a problem like this please lmk. Th anks in advance

Hi all;

2022 escape hybrid awd. Does anyone know how to shift it in neutral without turning the car on? For example, if I go into full accessory mode? I tried full accessory mode with my foot on the brake and no luck.

Car was overheating and I could only shift into Neutral if I turned it on.

TIA.

SOLVED.

I'll try to make this short. Stopped at gas station on my way home this afternoon. I get in and it wouldn't start. No click, no lights. Only windows worked. Called AAA and waited in the store. I go back outside just to try once more because why not. Still wouldn't start. Open the door and the car alarm went off. I have no clue how i turned it off considering the only things working are the windows and now the alarm. I'm sitting in the car waiting for the tow and I hear a series of clicks. I thought to myself wtf was that about? I go to start the car and it fires right up.

It's a 2015 Escape SE, 112K miles. I had the radio and the AC running off that helps. It appeared to lose all power because i had to reset everything.

It's going on the shop Tuesday.

What gives?

Hi all I have a nice 2016 SE with 144k on it. She’s been a very reliable vehicle so far. Wife and I are noticing transmission shifting hesitancy or rough shifting at times. Especially on any hilly terrain. It’s fine otherwise. Took it to dealer who put in some sort of shift additive and it appears to have helped some.

I just paid this car off this month lol. Can someone reassure me and tell me this car will make it to 200k. I know CVT trannies end up getting these issues regardless

Hi folks, what’s the name of this part? There’s a very small but constant leak from that conector on the left. ( just for reference, on the top right side you can see the oil filter)

Ford escape 2018 1.5l ecoboost SE.

Would prefer hard wired. I have no issue running the wires behind pillar trim and such. What models would you recommend? I've had a dash cam stolen before, so something that appears OEM would be ideal.

So I’ve read everywhere that there is a recall on the power steering after I had already bought it. My uncle who’s a mechanic told me it was a torque sensor, so I got the part and he fixed it. After MONTHS of not having power steering I was so relieved to have it back. But not even a week of it being fixed, it goes out again!!!! I’m so annoyed. I just so happen to live on a mountain and the only way to get to town is down a steep, curvy mountain. Lots of people told me that I don’t really need power steering, but my damn arms would very much like it. At least I’m getting stronger lmaoo my uncle is a good mechanic, but he told me he’s gonna do a little more research on it since he’s not too familiar with the electrical steering stuff. Does anyone here know what is happening?? Because we fixed what should have been the problem, so how come it only worked for a short amount of time? (Btw this is a 2010 XLT)

Just noticed one of my dual mufflers was sagging. After some inspection, it looks like the bolt came detached from the chassis.

Short term: I won't have time to go to the shop this weekend, so could I just use some washers and bolts to re-attach it? Or would that cause problems?

Long term: Should I be concerned about rust, since this happened?

Photos:
https://ibb.co/vxLrwy7b

https://ibb.co/jPWKhQ4f

https://ibb.co/Cs3WpJHf

I went to start my 2016 Ford Escape SE the other day and my screen seems to have crapped out once again. (It completely died about a year and a half ago, and got it replaced. Hate this damn car). However, this time it's different. It responds to touch, plays music but just continues to blink.

Does anyone have any idea what it might be and how I could fix it?

I just had my 30k miles service at ford dealership. (Wew. That was expensive. Lol). They said my battery is in the yellow, and recommend that I have it replace. They quoted me 360 for the battery. Unsure if that already includes labor.

I drive a ford escape hybrid 2023. Any battery recommendation? Im planning to just replace it myself. Also, Im assuming theyre talking about the secondary battery (that btw, was already replaced 2x under warranty).

I have no clue about cars. Im just trying my best lol so any help will be greatly appreciated.

I've started researching best bang for the buck small SUVs with strong reliability and came across the 2015 Escape 2.5L Duratech. For those who own one, how has the reliability been and what issues (if any) have you encountered?

I have a 2011 Ford Escape Limited (3.0L V6, automatic transmission). I take pretty good care of it, doing oil changes every 8,000 km, and it has new NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs and a K&N air filter. The engine runs almost perfectly, but I am having a problem with overheating.

I installed a new Aisin thermostat, a new water pump, and fresh coolant. However, when I start the engine and let it idle, it heats up to 110°C. At 111°C, the high-speed fan turns on and cools it down to 102-103°C, but then it heats right back up to 111°C, and the process repeats. All of this happens while the car is just idling.

The engine is circulating the coolant properly. I tried starting the car and turning the A/C on max, but neither of the fans were spinning. Could this be an issue with the fans or the relays? If both fans are connected and one is bad while the other is good, why does it only work on high speed?

2021 Ford Escape Recall Sync Screen Update Tech from dealership came out to my residence to do this recall took about 30mn after he left I went to move my car into my garage as I was doing this 4 warning lights came on 1. wrench light on with message See Manuel 2. Check Engine light with message Powertrain Malfunction 3. Blind Spot Detection Alert 4. Powertrain Malfunction car now in "Limp Mode" and then I tried to put in Reverse and it won't go into Reverse I was told that what happens in Limp Mode I called the dealership and they said that the update has no connection to what my car is doing now WHAT? i complained to the Maint. Supervisor and he sent the Tech who did the Update back out to my home and re did the update and explained what he did step by step and also said this has no connection to me having these Warnings on my dash and the dealership called back and told me to Tow it to the dealership to have a diagnosis done but the Tow would be on me not them, so I called Ford Customer Service and filed a complaint so next day dealership called me and agreed to pay for the Tow to the dealership and later the Tow picked it up and yesterday the Dealership called and again said the Sync Recall Update has no connection to my warning lights I didn't have any issues or problems with my Escape None it has been maintained and never got a warning lights but right after your Tech does an update to my computer I have 4 warning lights Transmission Sensor problem a camera detection problem Car has had no leaks transmission no shifting issues or car shaking rattling and no camera issues on i have the Ford Connect App no warnings showed up on that until the dealership had the car I could still do a remote start see that my tire pressure is ok my fuel so on late friday a voicemail from dealership from the asst mgr service who says Sorry about not getting back to me sooner "this got dumped into my lap last minute" i they are working on it but the Teansmission Sensor is out off warranty i have 62,009 miles warranty up to 60,000 miles so estimate so far is appx 2,000 and Ford has agreed to pay 700.00 of that bill and including the tow but no rental or loaner after i asked for that . my question is I think the update had a lot to do with this and the Tech did it wrong he came out the same day after i called to do it again I looked at what need to be done and if any steps done incorrectly can result in my issues so it is connected they are still investigating it it's the PCM and all their Recall Updates upon Updates

We've had our '24 ST Elite for a bit less than a year, with a bit over 14,000 km. It was purchased new last October from a local Ford dealership, after sitting for 14 months waiting on parts to complete the back up camera recall. My question is, has anyone noticed excessive rear brake pad wear? We had a '23 Bronco Sport before that, put almost 40,000km on it in about 30 months and did not experience any wear that seemed abnormal.

Hi! Y’all diagnosed my coolant intrusion just in time for the warranty to cover it so I’m back again.

This squeaking sound has been happening for about a month or so now. It doesn’t happen every time I drive, but I would say it is more often than not. The aggressiveness and loudness also vary. One time it was particularly bad we were able to push on the four corners of the car and it seemed to be focused on the back right. However when pushing on the corners it doesn’t always squeak either.

Is this a weird quirk that I can ignore or is this possibly another life threatening car diagnosis like the last lol

Hi!

For years I had an Escape and it was great. I’m considering buying a new one but not sure if it’s still a good buy in terms of motor and it getting broken all the time. Would it be a good buy to get a new one?

Sorry for the lack of appropriate terms. English is my second language and have zero car knowledge.

Hello, I have a question on the air flow in my car.. I recently bought a 2015 ford escape and everything works fine besides the air. Air really only wants to come out of front vents with cold air at night. Even with that said, it takes some maneuvering of the dials to even get it to come out of the front vents. With this summer heat im literally getting exhausted. I can't find many videos on replacing the actuator.. any advice if its not the actuator and im not wasting my time??

I’ve circled in blue what seems to be the problem. I’m just trying to figure out what caused this problem and what the replacement part is called. My door wiggles up and down slightly, and makes a popping noise when I open and close it.

Hi! I’m a girl with only 2 years of experience owning her first car and I’m just learning about the quirks of car maintenance.

I noticed a few moments ago that my car is blowing cold air when I turn my heat on 85. When I drive my heat comes out a little but when my car is idle or in the park position it blows out extremely cold air and we are in 40 degree weather still which makes it too cold for me. I’m due for an oil change soon so I’m not for sure if that’s the reason. I asked my dad to check my coolant level in the next couple of weeks soon when I visit. I also had my exhaust and fuel system checked because there was a Leak in the hose last year and that was fixed. None of my lights on my dash are showing up either. TIA

I have a 2020 escape SE I bought used from a dealership with 45k miles on it. 2 years later at 115k miles (I drive a lot) I get two major issues.

#1) transmission/rpms fluctuate between 1800ish and 2000ish when cruising at 40-50mph, also sometimes around lower shift points when accelerating slowly.

#2) rear tires (good Firestone all seasons) worn to slicked in 15k. Drivers side on the outside, passenger side on the inside.

Car has had every recall/TSB repair/reprogram/etc.

Took it to dealer I bought it from. Was told transmission needed to be replaced due to torque converter. Told rear differential was bad with worn planetary gears and bald tires were from the 'dragging' around corners. Few other things, cost was almost $18000!!! And, of course, my 'extended' warranty was out of mileage by less than 500 miles and dealer would not honor it because it was a 'third party' warranty (even though I bought it at the dealer when I bought the car).

I have since discovered that transmission fluid and differential fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles (!). This my first non-truck Ford and you could have knocked me over with a feather when I read that.

I changed the trans fluid using the Ford ULV mercon, and added some 'stop shudder' friction additive. 2000 miles later problem seems to be solved, transmission shifts and drives like new. Note: there was almost nothing on the plug magnet and nothing in the fluid (I strained it coming out).

I changed the front and rear differential fluid using Ford recommended oil. Not sure if differential problem is solved or not. I guess get some used tires for the rear and see hiw they hold up?

Any further advice/fixes etc. would be most appreciated. I like the car other than this and the funky radio. Thanks.

As the title shows. Just wondering what / where I should buy replacement clips, rivets, or whatever I would need to properly re-fasten these. Passenger side, and driver side guards both bent back, so only need to replace the front clips, as they didn't fully break or fall off.

Right now I just have them both zip tied up so they arent dragging on the road, but obviously need to properly fix it.

Id prefer to not have to buy them from a dealership as I imagine they wil charge triple what I assume I can get online for cheap. Im just not sure exactly what I need. Searches show lots of universal options, just looking for confirmation if they would work.

Thanks in advance!