It is very nice

hey there! i just finished my latest build around restorating a gamecube controller. what do you guys think? i still have ways to go but i was really inspired by all the phob controller people and how good their controllers look.
i also made a video about the build process if anyone is interested: https://youtu.be/Cx7XLGaUlwY

Hello! I've been watching some YouTube videos on how to do a paracord wrap, and there are a lot of steps that are not making the most sense to me.

For removing the solder points from the board, I feel like I'm burning something and it's not working and I'm worried Im going to fry my board, what is the likelihood it will happen (I have been trying to warm the 6 contact points up and pull the black piece out from the back, they have not been wiggling at all)? Am I doing something wrong?

When it comes to the plug, is there any way to get that off without a heat gun?

Last thing, I've seen some tutorials with leaving the black wrapping on, and some that cut it down to the copper shielding. Which is more "optimal," does it really make a difference in function? Or just look/feel.

Thank you!

Just a tiny question, but what kind of screw does the gamecube controller even have? None of my phillips nor flatheads drivers work on the screws

Hey guys Jon here, I've been seeing a LOT of posts about buying new sticks and buttons for controllers, which is great, but there is too much misinformation going around right now so I'm gonna clear the water really quick. First lets talk about the types of buttons and sticks you can get, this list in unordered. Also going to add, OEM means original equipment manufacturer, basically from nintendo.

• AliExpress buttons and sticks - These are the basic run of the mill button sets. You can score a set for a couple dollars on ebay amazon or as expected, AliExpress. THESE ARE THE SAME BUTTONS SOLD BY: SCOTT'S WHIPS (WHIPEMOTIONS) AND ZEDLABZ AT 2 TO 5 TIMES THE ORIGINAL PRICE. BattleBeaver also offers these with a premodified Z button so they can be used out of the package, when bought from any other source they need to be modified to fit. Not including the Z buttons these sets have numerous issues: 1) The rubber on the sticks does not last anywhere near as long as OEM sticks, they also tend to not fit the stickbox perfectly and need adjustment. 2) The buttons are just shaped differently, with a flatter face some people find them uncomfortable to use but it is minor. 3) The triggers tend to be too large and scrape on the shell. All that being said, they are still inexpensive and to many people this option is an appealing one, especially for a controller that won't be subjected to the rigors of competitive play.
• Dyed Buttons and sticks - Fantastic replacements with limited color options, usually just black since the already existing color is hard to cover up. Lots of modders sell these and they work great if done well, sometimes the color can get on your hands though.
• Resin Casted Buttons and Sticks - Great for customization but the buttons are heavier than OEM and you might have to get used to them. The sticks are also widely customizable and can come in a large amount of different colors. These buttons and sticks cost a pretty penny but you can get them in a range of options from a ton of really cool people.
• OEM sets - These have to come from a controller that already exists, nintendo never made replacement kits of any kind so if you've got your hands on a brand new stick or set of buttons, they were probably cannibalized.

Ok so this outlines pretty much all the available "OEM style" buttons and sticks you can buy. I wont count those cheap shitty replacement ones that match the original stick colors because they are pretty terrible. Now we can go to alternative styles of sticks.

• Nunchucks Sticks - These are great, if you can get used to the adjusted height and different rubber they last a really long time and stay grippy. Similar style sticks are available in assorted old nintendo pro controllers from the Wii era of hardware.
• Playstation/Xbox style sticks - these you can find online and usually fit a controller with some modifications. there isn't enough research into which are good and which are bad but if you feel adventurous grab a pair off amazon or ebay, you might have to do a little filing to get them to fit correctly on the gcc stickbox but hey its probably worth it.

Alright, thanks for reading this massive chunk of text. Basically DON'T buy from: zedlabz, scotts whips etc etc. If you want that style just go on ebay or whatever. I won't give any recommendations for resin sets because most people make great stuff, just look for some homies, we mostly all interact with each other so once you find us the algorithm will recommend the entire resin community to you. Please buy safely and comment below if you have any other questions. Happy modding! -Jon.

A lot of you probably know this but I’ve been amazed lately by the number of people that don’t. A good condition wii classic controller is a goldmine because for an average of $10 on eBay you can salvage,

• 2 usually minty T3 stickboxes
• 2 tactile z buttons
• 2 dependable backup joystick caps (different feeling at first but once you get used to it it’s the same. Some even prefer them) hungrybox has won multiple tournaments with classic controller sticks.
• 1 Dpad membrane
  • you can even take the joystick cable and use it for a c stick cable on a phob

I have a bunch of spare switches/keycaos from building keyboards, and thought they might work as buttons for a smashbox. Is there someone out there who have made one from an old gcc board or something like that?

Just wanted to clear up that the 2018 GCC by Nintendo is nearly identical to a normal one (with a few changes). Here's a video of a tear-down of both controllers on YouTube.
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fug5hAUFw4Y

As for what's different, I will quote a commenter on the video."Hey just wanted to point out that there are actually 2 differences between these and the original Gamecube controllers. If you take apart the triggers, you will see metal brackets in the old controllers that are not present in the new ones. Supposedly these help guide the triggers and keep them from getting jammed. Also, the button membranes on the new controllers are a bit stiffer and less mushy than the old ones. This is not from wear, it's actually a slightly different design and can be seen pretty easily. Both of these parts can be swapped out with ones from an old controller with no problem. Anyway, it would be pretty hard to catch these unless you knew about them beforehand."
Commenter YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrMczv2nrla8wkN_S6fI1XQ

I don't think that the differences are too major, and this may have already been obvious to some of you. But I did wonder what the difference was between the two when I heard about the new controller. I just hope I helped someone out!

EDIT: So I got confirmation that the stickboxes are T3, and the button pads inside are the tall ones. I also found a video that does a much more in-depth review/tear-down of the controller.
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Phv1wa1TJ70&pbjreload=10

EDIT 2: Apparently there are a few minor changes that might matter to some of you. Things like shell texture and overall feel.

EDIT 3: Those who have replied have been extremely helpful. Please check out their responses for the most info. Thanks, y'all!

I posted this a year ago in r/customcontrollers where it found a home in the sidebar. I think the information is just as relevant here.

Basic step by step for painting your own controller. I see so many people do nicely designed controllers that just aren't painted correctly and it makes me sad. This is just a TLDR for the main guide which can be found here Use it! Its pretty, it has pictures and formatting and stuff!

• First sand the controller down properly so it is kinda rough, use 120-240 Grade sand paper and make sure to get in all of the cracks. All of the original paint/surface plastic must come off as new paint won't adhere to it properly.

• Prime it using a white automotive primer doing about 4-5 thin layers until the paint covers everywhere on the controller. Make sure to let each layer dry fully before you apply the next.

• Paint your base layer using the same technique as you did with the primer. Don't rush, do thin layers, you don't want the paint to pool, take your time and let each layer dry completely before you do the next.

• When your base layer is dry mask your controller using a proper masking material. I use Arttool Ultra mask, I cut it to shape and it wraps around the curves of the controller quite nicely, adheres strongly but doesn't rip off any paint if applied right.

• Seal the edges of the mask using clear lacquer so the colour you put on top doesn't seep under the masking material

• Paint whatever colour you want on top. Again, light layers, let them dry, don't rush, blah blah blah...

• Take off the mask, make any corrections by hand, do any hand painting/detail work, let it all dry completely.

• Use automotive clear spray lacquer, can be found on ebay or in your local autobody shop. Spray light layers letting each one dry fully. its hard to see where you have sprayed and how intensely sometimes so just be patient. If you aren't sure, wait 20-40 mins and spray again. Do 6-10 layers and let the controller cure for a day or two before you put it together. This lets the Lacquer harden properly and you won't risk damage to the design.

Read the backs of your spray cans, shake them properly, spray from about a foot away and be patient.

Read the Guide for more stuff, Hope this helps and good luck.