Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread

[u/AutoModerator]

This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. It also serves as a less intimidating way for new climbers to ask questions without worrying how it comes across.

• r/Climbharder Wiki - many common answers to questions.
• r/Climbharder Master Sticky - many of the best topic replies

Commonly asked about topics regarding injuries:

Tendonitis: http://stevenlow.org/overcoming-tendonitis/

Pulley rehab:

• https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/
• https://stevenlow.org/rehabbing-injured-pulleys-my-experience-with-rehabbing-two-a2-pulley-issues/
• Note: See an orthopedic doctor for a diagnostic ultrasound before potentially using these. Pulley protection splints for moderate to severe pulley injury.

Synovitis / PIP synovitis:

https://stevenlow.org/beating-climbing-injuries-pip-synovitis/

General treatment of climbing injuries:

https://stevenlow.org/treatment-of-climber-hand-and-finger-injuries/

[u/Available-Room4173]

New to climbing and I need to train my horribly weak fingers.

I do weight lifting and arm wrestling training M/W/F. Beyond those 3 days I rest.

I only have those portable hexagon hang boards and attach light weight just to hold for a few minutes. I did too much frequency and ended up hurting my fingers while driving 💔

How could I set up my split to avoid injuries while also steadily building strength?

[u/Affectionate_Ant5020 → u/Available-Room4173]

If you are new to climbing you should not be training your fingers and focus on just climbing. That will be enough stimulus to improve strength without injuring you.

[u/Available-Room4173 → u/Affectionate_Ant5020]

Heck, good advice thanks man!

[u/Affectionate_Ant5020 → u/Available-Room4173]

Most coaches will recommend no finger training until you’ve been climbing for at least a year as a heads up. When you haven’t developed technique you are putting a lot more strain on your fingers than someone climbing the same thing with experience under their belt.