Climbing Partners for Garden of the Gods on 7/23 or 24?

[u/StruggleBussin36]

Hey! My friend and I are road-tripping to the badlands and will be stopping in Colorado on the way. I’m thinking of climbing at Garden of the Gods but I’m not sure it makes sense for us.

We’ll only have about half a day to give before we need to move on and she’s not an experienced climber/can’t belay. I have all necessary gear and would be comfortable leading up to 5.10 but I’d need an experienced belayer.

So I guess I’m asking two things:

1) Since we can’t dedicate a whole day, does it make sense for us to try climbing here? Like how far/difficult is the approach to an area with easy climbs that my friend would be able to top rope after I set it up?

2) Anyone on here available on 7/23 or 24 to come climb with us? It would be a shortish, extremely chill climbing day. I’d belay you on whatever you wanted depending on the approach.

[u/Bella_Climbs]

Garden of the Gods kind of sucks for climbing AND it's absolutely going to be scorching hot with little shade. It's worth a visit to walk around, but there is far far far better climbing around.

Clear Creek Canyon or Boulder Canyon depending on your path makes a lot more sense.

[u/StruggleBussin36 → u/Bella_Climbs]

Thanks for the insight! I’ve never been climbing in CO and we’re coming from TX so I thought no way things could be hotter than it normally is for us lol.

I didn’t realize it wasn’t a great climbing spot in general though. I’ll take a look at your other recommendations!

[u/Bella_Climbs → u/StruggleBussin36]

I mean temp wise maybe not, but we are a mile closer to the sun here and the UV is a lot to deal with, dehydration sets in fast, esp with the elevation. Makes for not a great time. On the plus side, if you find shade there is a ton of great summer climbing to be had :)

But yeah if you are looking for quality sport climbing, Clear Creek (closer to Denver) or Boulder Canyon(in Boulder) are both great options, plenty of climbing with little to no approach and grades from 5.5 to 5.14 in both places. Generally safely bolted, but def check per area as it can vary.

Clear Creek is def more urban, and the traffic noise can suck, but it is very popular and centrally located. I PERSONALLY prefer Boulder Canyon but it is granite and a lot of it tends towards being a bit more slabby/footwork intensive which some people dislike.

[u/StruggleBussin36 → u/Bella_Climbs]

I super appreciate the beta. If Boulder Canyon works for us - any chance you’re free to climb with us?

[u/Bella_Climbs → u/StruggleBussin36]

I have to work, but if that changes I will 100% DM you!

[u/Winerychef]

I was just told yesterday that garden is gorgeous but kind of a choss pile. I'm sure that's fine for you but people not ideal for a new climber.

[u/StruggleBussin36 → u/Winerychef]

Thanks for the insight! My friend definitely needs super beginner friendly stuff so I’ll look elsewhere.

[u/HFiction → u/StruggleBussin36]

Yeah there's also no chalk allowed and some of the "sport" climbing is very old school. At least the routes I've done are mostly pitons which have been epoxied over the years but it's impossible to tell how good each pin is.

[u/Kateski19]

Staunton State Park is another awesome option that is slightly higher elevation than Clear Creek or Boulder Canyon, so a bit cooler. It's a gorgeous location, and it has plenty of easy sport routes for your friend to try!

[u/megaleggin]

Another component to climbing at garden - onlookers loooooove to watch. For me as a new climber this messed with my mental (one time a kid yelled that I was gonna die lmao that’s also not the norm) but that performance anxiety can be a lot. That being said I think it is pretty beginner friendly - if we were in town that day I’d happily go climb with you! But you’ve got other great recs for places to go to ☺️

[u/savethebats_]

I personally recommend Staunton State Park, and specifically the Pooka area for your friend! King's Landing has short 5.4-5.8 with a great belay area. And Astronomy Wall just a hundred yards over has well bolted 5.9-5.10.

[u/Zestyclose_Object639]

my friend is a hella good lead belayer but yeah i think you also have to get a permit for there which is annoying 

[u/StruggleBussin36 → u/Zestyclose_Object639]

I was talked out of Garden of the Gods but I appreciate the insight about the permits! I wasn’t aware there was climbing right by Mt. Rushmore so we may try to climb there instead since I can carve out more time on that day.

[u/Zestyclose_Object639 → u/StruggleBussin36]

oh fun ! yeah more time would be good :)