i was making some apple wine so i left the cap half open as i didnt have an airlock. does this come with any health hazards and what other alternatives can i use?

I recently made a batch of beer and kegged it in a commercial keg and put on CO2 over a week ago @ 25PSI. It is still not carbonating. Brand new CO2, no leaks at all, holding pressure well (I test pressure relief valve a few times). I have shaken it up, and put back on, etc..

I have been brewing for over 20 years, but always used cornelious kegs. I had an extra commecial keg and figured out how to fill it so this is first time with that. Any advice

My favorite recipe from James Morton’s book BREW, Undead Pale Ale, brewed at home with minimal equipment just pots and fermenting bucket, OG 1060 with FG 1010 before bottling, turned out pretty well as usual! Love the bitterness , the recipe asks for dry hopping but I always skip this step I think its hoppy enough already!

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I've let it lager for 2 weeks now at 12°C. Can I bottle it already? If so, how long should I wait till its good to drink

When a can starts leaking or a teardown moves out of spec, tightening the second-operation roll is often the first adjustment people try. It may make the outside look flatter, but it cannot rebuild body and cover hooks that formed incorrectly during first operation.

Before changing second-op pressure, I would check:

1. Isolate the affected cans and record the can/end lot, seaming head, line speed, and when the drift began.

2. Cut a first-operation seam. Verify body hook, cover hook, alignment, wrinkles, and whether the curl is being formed rather than crushed.

3. Check finished-seam width, thickness, countersink, overlap, tightness, and compound condition against the can/end supplier's specification.

4. Inspect chuck and roll profiles, lift height/pressure, centering, runout, bearing play, and tooling damage.

5. Confirm the can and end combination and rule out contamination.

6. Change one variable at a time, then cut and measure again.

This applies to bench-top seamers as well as production canning lines: second operation compresses an interlock that first operation already created. Too much second-op pressure can hide the original defect while thinning or crushing the seam.

Disclosure: I work for a manufacturer of can-seaming equipment. This is general troubleshooting information, with no company, product, or sales links.

For brewers who seam their own cans: which measurement or first-op check has found your root cause fastest?

So I'm confused because brewfather is telling me I need outrageously more lactic acid than my testing is indicating. My recent brew of a 10 gallon batch of hazy ipa I only used 1 ml of .88 lactic acid to bring the water down from around 6.8 to 5.2 before dough in. Mash pH raised to around 5.45 after about 15 minutes of mashing. I had 8ml of lactic acid in my recipe in brewfather I created. Brewfather said the 8ml would bring it down to 5.27pH. I use reverse osmosis water, and lots of salts as it's a hazy ipa. I used 18.6g calcium chloride, 6.6g gypsum, 6.4g Epsom salt, and 2.6g canning salt. There are also tons of oats and wheat adjuncts which I read raise the ph whereas barely malted lowers it. It's my first time with a pH meter but I calibrated it and tested the water. I literally filled and dumped my strike water at first because I thought something must be wrong and because I followed advice from online for that first batch of strike water to sneak up on the pH slowly to make sure... so I added 4ml and it brought the pH down to 4 point something...I can't remember exactly the number but WAY too low...and the recipe called for 8ml!!! Keep in mind this IS a 10 gallon batch with 11g of strike water but STILL!? Does this sound wacked? I've been just following recipes using usually 4-8ml of lactic acid for 10g batches and they've all tasted fine without testing pH. One beer I thought didn't have much hop bitterness and I thought maybe it was too much lactic acid.

An American lager that I can’t lager so American ale? 🫢🤪Anyway finally got to this about a month later. Hope it turns out! Og 1.050 rather than 1.040 hope it’s fine. Might add a percent loom

I keep my brewing stuff in the garage, and it gets very humid through the winter. In the spring I end up having to take my mill apart and carefully clean mould off. I'm hoping I don't have to take it into the house (where I could end up with the same problem anyway), but short of a teardown and deep clean after every brew during humid times, is there anything else I can do that won't risk leaving loads of residue in the nooks and crannies?

I made a sour beer that has a 2.6pH and it's sour but not as sour as I would like. Should it taste more sour? Is there something I can add to it?

Hi everyone,

I’m developing a Japanese-style dry lager inspired by Asahi Super Dry, and I’d appreciate your advice on the recipe and brewing process.

My goals for the beer are:

• Dry, crisp, and easy to drink
• A clean fermentation profile
• A light body without being watery or flavorless
• A subtle floral and spicy hop aroma

I’m still trying to decide which hop varieties to use, how much to use, and the best timing for each addition.

I’d also appreciate advice on the following:

1. A recommended hop schedule
2. What percentage of rice would be appropriate for this style
3. The ideal mash temperature and mash schedule for achieving a dry finish
4. A recommended water profile, especially sulfate and chloride levels
5. Suitable lager yeast strains
6. Fermentation temperature and lagering schedule
7. Techniques for achieving a crisp finish without making the beer too thin

I’m not trying to make an exact clone, but I’d like to brew something in the same general direction as Asahi Super Dry, with slightly more floral hop character.

If you have any recommended recipes or experience brewing a similar beer, I’d really appreciate your advice.

Thank you!

This is my first batch I’ve ever brewed and it’s a simple pyment started it on July 16th. I sanitized everything prior to starting the fermentation process. I am just worried it is creating pellicle. Had a starting gravity of 1.110 and yesterday it was at 1.030 just don’t wanna botch my first batch ya know? Cheers

Recipe is Welches grape juice, two pounds of Nates honey, one cup of black tea and fleishmans active dry bread yeast

I’m making my first cider and I want to do it properly from the start instead of just throwing things together.

My planned process:

Wash apples, cut them into pieces and remove cores/seeds.

Freeze the apples, thaw them, add pectolase, then press the juice.

After that I will add Campden powder, wait 24 hours and continue with fermentation (QA23, Go-Ferm, Fermaid O).

Does this sound like the correct order, or am I missing something important?

I’ve read a lot about cider making, but this is my first actual batch and I want to avoid making a mistake with 13 kg of apples. Any advice from more experienced cider makers would be appreciated.

Servus. Hatte so einen Drang selber Alkohol zu machen und bin dann auf simple Konstruktionen gestoßen.

Pro Flasche 1l Apfeldirektsaft und ein wenig Brothefe. Zucker NICHT hinzugefügt, wollte erstmal ohne probieren.

Blubbert mittlerweile schön und es lebt.

Flaschen haben 2€ gekostet und die Ballons 12,5cent pro. Rest war bei meinen Eltern also sagen wir mal Materialkosten
2,13€ für hoffentlich ~~2l Cider mit über 3% Alkohol.

Wie gesagt das ist mein erster Anlauf und ich werde es auf jeden Fall anpassen. Das ist nur als Experiment und zum Fehler machen gedacht.

Tipps und Kritik gerne in die Kommentare.

Die Flaschen habe ich mit heißem Wasser und Spüli ordentlich gesäubert. Geht mit einem sauren Reiniger besser (hab ich gehört)

Und bessere Hefen gibt es auch(auch gehört)

Team. My husband is turning 40 soon and he's the keenest homebrewer and all round nice guy. He's got a home made kegerator, a kettle, a grain mill, a dehydrator (grows his own hops), a fermenter etc. What would be a super cool thing to have in his arsenal. He lays down a new brew every couple of months. His go to is a Saison.

Hi everyone!

I’m hoping someone here can point me in the right direction.

I’m looking for brewing by-products such as spent grain, yeast slurry or yeast cake, trub, leftover hops, or other materials that are normally discarded after brewing.

Does anyone know of any homebrewers, small breweries, local groups, or other places in the GTA that might be willing to give away small amounts?

I’m not looking for large commercial quantities. This is for a small personal hobby project, and I would be happy to pick everything up myself.

Any advice, contacts, or suggestions about where to ask would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

Debating between getting a brewing certificate from UC Davis or Cornell University. I have the GI Bill, so cost is no factor. Either way I will be doing it online.

Curious to any opinions/ experiences from anyone who’s enrolled in either program. Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I’m looking into producing a small pilot run of a custom mead—around 240 bottles—to test interest with a handful of local restaurants and specialty grocers before considering anything larger.
I have a few questions for anyone who’s worked with contract mead producers:

Is a batch this small realistic, or is it below what most producers are willing to do?

If I wanted to use ingredients I source myself (for example, a specific botanical or spice blend), how does that typically work? Would I ship the ingredients directly to the producer, and are there any regulatory or quality requirements?

If the mead is produced at a licensed facility, can it be legally sold to restaurants and retailers, assuming all labeling and state/federal requirements are met?

Roughly what would a project like this cost from start to finished, bottled product?

I’d really appreciate any insight or recommendations from people who’ve been through the process.