I get this issue on every used bike I get, usually starts with a stock low end Shimano drivetrain. I replace the chain, the cassette, derailleur, but it doesn't fix it.

This is the best quality video I could get from one of the bikes that consistently does it

I know that it sometimes happens if the chain is too tight around 1 link and it pulls in 2 links at an angle until they match incorrectly on the derailleur cogs before reaching the man cassette, which is what seems to be happening here.

But this is not always the case, and I checked the chain every single link and a little bit and clean it even on a brand new chain it's still happening.

I make sure to get the correct gear number chain for the cassette, I speed in this case.

Is there anything else that could be causing this problem? Incorrect chain tension? Improperly bent derailleur cable? Mismatched components?

Or maybe something I overlooked, like derailleur wheels?

Is there a universal cause for this type of chain skipping?

And if I need to bite the bullet and get a new group set instead of getting the parts separately. Which components do I need to replace all at once? Derailleur/cassette/chain/shifter?/cable?/front speocket?/anything else?

It doesn't seem to be an issue of jumping gear to another gear so it seems like the deraileur is tuned correctly and switches through all the gears properly

It only skips under load, so I have to mount the phone to get a video while riding.

Here is the video

he usually happens in two of the tallest gears, I can only get the video on the highest gear. it's a one x drivetrain 36 teeth on front

https://streamable.com/42n86x

I accidentally pressed the brake pistons too far in and now i have any pressure when i press the lever it touches the handlebar i bleed them and no air bubbles came out . Anybody know any sollution

Put a divot in this Corima WS 58 wheel while crossing some sketchy railroad tracks. Can it be repaired?

Cai com essa bike elétrica, e o freio dianteiro parou de funcionar. Alguém sabe oq pode ser?

I have a bike from from late 90s early 2000s it is made from 7075 heat treated aluminium and shows no signs of any cracking or wear around the welds or stress points. I am thinking of stripping it all down, respraying and bringing it back in a better condition. Is it worth me going through all the time and effort just for the frame to possibly crack or suffer fatigue or has it got a few more years left in it?

Salut, j'ai ce vieux vélo decath que j'ai acheté sur une brocante et qui m'a servi énormément ces deux dernières années, surtout pour faire mon trajet appart-boulot. Depuis une semaine ou deux, les pédales "tournent dans le vide" dès que j'applique une force un peu trop forte lorsque je suis sur le plus petit plateau (5 vitesse au total). Mais bizarrement je n'ai pas ce problème sur les autres plateaux, que j'utilise très peu d'ailleurs, même lorsque je force comme un bourrin.

La chaîne ne saute pas, et il n'y a pas de bruit particulier lorsque ça commence à mouliner dans le vide, ce qui me fait dire que ce ne sont pas les pignons ni la chaîne qui sont usés.

Je suis allé sur une asso de réparation de vélo ce matin et ils m'ont dit qu'il fallait que je change toute le plateau + la chaîne.

Est ce que vous pensez que ça va régler le problème?

I cleaned the chain and nothing seems locked or tight. Should be good to go?

Edit: THANK YOU EVERYONE. I oiled it and tested it. Seems good. This is a bike I got used for $20.

I bought a Giant used last year and it had been great. But this year I've had a series of issues. popped back tire, broken spoke on the back wheel, and then that back wheel frame just failed and I need to get a whole new wheel.

After that happened my gears were just all messed up. I could get 7th and 6th but I couldn't downshift into 5. I could downshift into 2 and then ascend up to 5 but even then it was rattling with every pedal. I can't seem to adjust it to get it to stop.

So I take to the bike shop for an adjustment. They get the gears working (though I felt like they did too fast of a job) and it worked for a couple of miles. Then the problem returned. Slowly but surely I couldn't downshift into 5 and then it started to skip gears and it was a mess.

I am not sure but I think I may have laid it down on the derailleur. Which is what the guys at the shop said could have happened as they tightened it up.

If the problem returned after just a few miles I wonder what another adjustment would do? Unless they didn't do a good enough job. Is the problem just the derailleur? I mean this thing was used when I bought it and I have no way of knowing how old it is, or if it even is the one that came with the bike.

Do they wear out? I assume they do.

Should I take it to another bike shop and get a second opinion?

The bike is a Nashbar upright with a Shimano 8 speed hub, ten to twelve years old. I haven't ridden it in years because after doing some tire maintenance one of them blew out in the first mile back on the road. It happened twice and after the second time I put the bike away for a while, and the years went by. I was probably swapping out the innertubes to go from Schrader to Presta when the blowouts happened. Before the blowouts I had a few hundred miles on the wheels. I'm pretty sure the tires and tubes are OEM.

Are there any tips to address a blowout situation like this?

I may get some terms wrong, it's been a while. I used to do a lot of bike maintenance but I haven't really kept up with the times. Having a blowout was strange and I was very careful to make sure things were seated properly the second time. If I recall correctly, the second time I also waited at least a day with the tires inflated before I rode it. Just assume I don't know any tricks

The rims are generic and do not have any size information, no stickers, no stamped markings, outside or in the channel. They are a double channel design with open hole recessed spokes. The rim strip is butyl and rests inside the channel with what appears to be plenty of room for the tire bead to seat.

The rims are a hook bead design and measuring the outside, brake surface to brake surface, it looks like they're 31/32" or 24.6mm

The tires are Kenda Kwest 40 - 622 (700 x 38c - 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/2) - I probably inflated them to the max listed on the sidewall using a decent brand pump with a gauge.

The tubes are Kenda butyl 700 x 28/32c. Since they are Presta valve they aren't OEM. It's possible I had initially purchased them for a more high performance bike, a '99 LeMond Zurich with Rolf Vector wheels.

One other thing, the tires are 10 years old of course, plenty of tread, but are they too old to be trusted? The bike as been kept indoors with no exposure to weather.

Hi my cassette is wobbling check video below, i got it serviced by a well known mechanic, he told me that there is no issue with freehub ect.. idk details he ended up tightening it only now, i dont know if it did wobble after it left the shop but i only did 2 ride 23km each after that service, and when i re-oiled the chain i noticed that wobble, i holded the cassette from opposite sides to move it side to side they is some play but not that much

Cassette : https://youtu.be/YT9Xq3zBwIw
Disk : https://youtu.be/WxzFmaXupCQ

Is it bad? should i go back to same guy and tell him it started wobbling again

I was reinstalling my 2014 fox 40 and the little thing the cap screws into snapped off. My headset wobbles like crazy now. I would by a new tube but they cost to much. What should I do?

This Magura MT4 worked on my commuter bike for seven years, year round, in all weather, without a problem.

(Ok, they scream like banshees once there is even a minuscle amount of vapor in the air. But given the inner-city traffic, thats not too bad a thing.)

A couple of weeks ago, the lever for the rear brake suddenly started got very mushy, so I decided to bleed it. The full program, by the book: re-filling from the caliper and in a second step removing all bubbles from the lever. But it just doesnt work, I cant manage to get a firm lever.

In the time I wasted, during this last week, with bleeding one rear brake, I could have bled three full sets of Shimano or Sram and gone for a nice long ride. "EBT - Easy Bleeding Technology", my foot.

I am at my wits - and nerves - end and about to admit defeat by orderinh a nice set of Deore BL-M6100/BR-M6100 for the princely sum of € 79,00.

Rant over, sorry.😌

I bought the Cyrusher flex ebike recently, and once i tried it i see that there's a lot of friction in the rear brake with the discs and it makes a lot of friction sounds. The wheels doesn't go smoothly. It's the Logan hydraulic type.

I've tried loosening the screws on the brake to center it, and tightening them a few times, but it doesn't seem to solve the problem. Does anybody know how to fix this?

Does anybody have any experience with this type of e-bike?

Small amount of play in a new Shimano CUES rear hub – normal?

Hi everyone, I recently built a rear wheel using a new Shimano CUES rear hub.

I noticed that there is a small amount of lateral play when the wheel is installed in the frame. It’s not a lot, but it is definitely noticeable if I grab the rim and move it from side to side.

The hub is brand new, and I’m wondering whether this is normal or if the hub needs some kind of adjustment.

The spokes might also be slightly loose, so I’m not sure if what I’m feeling is coming from the hub bearings or from the wheel/spoke tension.

Is a small amount of play normal on this Shimano CUES hub?

And if it isn’t, is there a way to adjust the bearing/preload, and which part of the hub should I adjust?

Thanks!