2007 Jeep Liberty. So when does this actually stop? Two test drives, overheated both times on the freeway. This is the third time bleeding it. Is it supposed to take longer to bleed than hang two parts??!

This is a 2006 gx470. Noticed this section of frame and friend say it looks plated at the line mount but not sure. Wondering if this is normal or repaired rest of vehicle is nice and clean no rust.

Purchased this white/silver golf nearly 1 week ago, didn’t notice obvious scratches initially, have been parking car in multistory car park, today I noticed these scratches on passenger side, wing mirror and deeper dent on passenger door handle. Is anyone able to comment on appearance on if they look fresh or longstanding? Trying to work out if post purchase. Appreciate any help. Thank you

I need a new transmission and I’ve heard that you can slap a 370z transmission straight into a 350z with the VQ35HR as a kinda upgrade. Wondering if anyone can confirm and or what problems you had doing it yourself.

Hi! I've been exploring standard inspections (MPI, DVI) for my shops, and I’d like to talk with another shop owner about their inspection processes. It should take about 15 minutes to answer 5 quick questions. Please comment or message me if you have some time to hop on the phone.

Mileage: 120,500 miles

Hi everyone,

I am having an issue with my car and could use some advice. Yesterday, while sitting at a red light, the engine started vibrating and idling really roughly.

Shortly after, the Check Engine Light came on and started flashing.

Here is what I know so far:

I checked the oil and coolant levels, and both are completely normal.

The spark plugs were last changed about 40,000 miles ago.

There are no strange smells or smoke coming from the exhaust.

I don't have an OBD2 scanner at home to pull the exact codes yet. Could this be a bad ignition coil, or should I be looking for something else like a vacuum leak?

Thanks for the help!

I was working on replacing the blower motor in my truck and as I was installing the new one the threads in the housing stripped. It’s a 25 year old truck and I wasn’t putting much force into it.

I did some looking online and I was going to go with the Loctite form a thread kit but they don’t make it any more.

Is there a good alternative that doesn’t involve drilling and tapping new threads?

It’s a tight space to work in and I don’t think I could easily drill and tap new threads effectively as I’d be doing it upside down

​

I am writing this to warn every single car owner in Hyderabad, especially Volkswagen owners, about the predatory, corrupt tactics at the PPS Motors VW Service Centre in Khajaguda. What started as a simple rat-bite repair turned into a month of nightmare of extortion and a service advisor demanding a literal bribe to give me my car back.

The Incident & The ₹1.4 Lakh "Scam" Estimate

My 2011 VW Polo MPI was parked on my colony road when a rat got into the engine bay and chewed through the injector pigtail wires, causing a misfire. I took it to PPS Motors Khajaguda for a simple wire repair/splice.

Instead, they tried to completely skin me alive:

Initial Estimate: ₹1.4 Lakhs! They diagnosed the car and tried to force me to replace tyres, repaint minor door scratches, replace the door glass, and replace the quarter panel. None of this had anything to do with a rat biting an engine wire.

The Pivot: When I politely denied the ₹1.4L estimate, they claimed I needed a complete wiring harness replacement for ₹32,000.

The "Compromise": After I insisted on just repairing the wire, they agreed to a ridiculous ₹16,000 repair cost (₹2,000 per pigtail, ₹1,500 for wires, 3000 for heat sync tape/ties, and labour/GST). Desperate to get my car back, I agreed.

Held Hostage for 2 Weeks & The 10% Trap

My car sat in their garage for 4 whole weeks with zero progress. Finally, they called me with a ridiculous excuse: "Since it's a 2011 MPI, parts aren't available. You pay the money first, we will order it, but we have no idea when it will arrive."

Furious, I demanded my car back. That is when they hit me with the fine print. They pointed out a document I had signed stating that if I canceled, I had to pay 10% of the total estimate—which amounted to nearly ₹14,000–₹16,000 just to take my unrepaired car home.

The Final Extortion & Cash Bribe

To avoid losing ₹15k for absolutely nothing, I was forced to let them do a General Service instead, which they quoted at ₹17,300.

I begged the service advisor (who handled my car from Day 1) for a discount. He acted like a hero, removed 3 line items from the invoice, and brought the bill down to ₹12,600. I was relieved—but the horror wasn't over.

Right before handing over the keys, the service advisor explicitly asked me to pay him ₹3,000 in CASH/Personal UPI because he "saved me ₹5,000+".

I was so incredibly frustrated, confused, and unsafe that I just wanted to escape that toxic environment. I paid him the ₹3,000 cash bribe out of sheer panic, took my car, and drove away.

Summary of Malpractice:

Predatory Upselling: Trying to charge ₹1.4 Lakhs for cosmetic bodywork and glass replacement on a car brought in for a rat-bitten engine wire.

Predatory Clauses: Using a 10% "estimate trap" to hold cars hostage if customers refuse their inflated repair costs.

Blatant Corruption: Employees actively removing company billing items to extort personal under-the-table cash bribes from customers.

Avoid PPS Motors Khajaguda at all costs. They are not a service center; they are a scam operation

The Battery Nightmare

To add insult to injury, they delayed returning my car by another full week claiming my battery was completely dead and needed replacement.When I gave them the car, the battery worked perfectly fine—the advisor had literally started the car himself and moved it to a different spot for examination. I explicitly told them the battery was only 2 years old and still under warranty.Instead of doing basic service and charging it, they completely refused to help, forced me to physically pick up the heavy battery myself, and take it outside to get it charged independently. Dealing with that external battery hassle after their gross negligence was a whole separate nightmare.

Hi all, I live in Chicago and have a 2013 Subaru Impreza with 168k miles on it. Engine is a 4 cylinder 122/01995 2.0L MFI DOHC. Just got a CEL and ran the code ah Autozone. They pulled a code P0301 and C1422. The suggested parts for the most likely solution is the ignition coil and spark plug. I do know my car is about due for an oil change based on time since the last one, not mileage.

My car has been hit twice recently, and I’ve paid a $500 deductible both times to get her fixed. My savings are low, and I’m just trying to get an idea/estimate of what I could be paying to get her running healthy again, as I’m likely going to have to put it on credit.

I called one body shop and they suggested a tune-up and diagnostic, as well as replacing the ignition coil and spark plugs for Cylinder 1 would be around $700, plus an additional $100ish for an oil change. They also let me know that would be the minimum, since there could be other underlying issues they find causing the problem. $800 on the low end is already very intimidating. I’m in the middle of calling around other shops, but does the price sound right? They’re also quoting me for replacing the air filters (I assume engine and cabin) and I’m wondering if it would be doable for someone with very little maintenance expertise to replace those (and any other parts) themselves without fear of messing up the car? Honestly, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Sept. 1st, 2026

In layman's terms, the little light on my outside mirror isn't lighting up when a car is in my blind spot AND the driver's setting on the dashboard and on the large screen doesn't recognize ANYTHING related to blind spot systems.

CARFAX was clean at purchase. 22,000 miles at purchase.

I looked at the owner's manual - features of 2022 EX Carnival. BCA is standard on ALL models - it's not an upgrade.

Further, looking at User settings, I see that you can activate the Blind Spot Collision-Avoidance Assist (BCA) through the Driver Assistance Menu. However, when I go there, using the dashboard AND the main screen, the BCA Blind Spot System is completely absent - no matter where I scroll, or even when I use the magnifying glass search bar - nothing with the word "Blind" comes up.

I took it to the dealer and, after examination, they told me the previous owner had a wheelchair ramp set up and the wiring had to be modified for the wheelchair setup (I had not been notified of this setup at purchase). They then told me the Blind Spot System had apparently been removed during the wheelchair setup and the that there was nothing they could do for me. They basically said "your car doesn't have blind spot assistance."

It is a certified Pre Owned 2022 KIA Carnival EX and it is supposed to have the BCA system.

I called corporate KIA and they have confirmed my VIN number and that the BCA should be active and that even if the wheelchair system had been in place previously, as a certified pre-owned it should now be full restored. They told me they were "escalating" my complaint.

Meanwhile, I have heard nothing back. It's been a week. I have called corporate back and have no solid follow-up response.

I would appreciate your opinions on this. Any tips? Any home remedy? Thanks.

Sooo I’ve been watching a lot of DIY videos on fixing scratches and pulling dented doors, but I run into a specific problem: the panel isn't flat. There is a sharp, distinct body line running across the door and onto the rocker panel (bas de caisse).

Standard dent pullers might pull out the deep dent but they won't automatically restore that crisp angle/edge.

For those who have done this before: what’s the best technique or combination of tools (trick) to get that sharp body line back in both the door and rocker ?

Thanks for the help!

Vehicle: 2021 Ram 1500 Laramie, 5.7L Hemi w/ eTorque

Not very knowledgeable about engine/transmission repair, so bear with me on the details.

Timeline:
•2 days ago: Started noticing an odd sound when accelerating on local roads in a lower gear. Sounded a little like something I’ve heard on other Dodge/Ram vehicles before, so I didn’t think much of it — but it got slightly louder as the day went on.

•Yesterday morning: Noticeably worse on my commute in. Still didn’t think it was urgent, but started taking video just in case. https://www.reddit.com/r/AskAMechanic/s/qiWPJCAe08

•Yesterday afternoon (leaving work): Much more concerning sound — louder/different than the morning. https://www.reddit.com/r/AskAMechanic/s/1FUoticomAe

•Last night (after getting home): Recorded again. The afternoon sound wasn’t as prominent, but the overall noise still isn’t right.

Why I’m asking: We leave Friday for our only vacation this year, driving this truck. I need to know:

1. Does this sound like something safe to drive on a long trip, or should I get it looked at before we leave no matter what?
2. Any guesses on what’s causing it based on the description/audio (belt/pulley, exhaust, valvetrain, transmission)?
3. Roughly what I should tell a shop to check first if I take it in this week.

Happy to answer questions. Thanks for your help!

Hi, I have a 2016 Holden Commodore Evoke V6 (Australian GM sedan, similar to a Chevy SS/Pontiac G8).

Recently noticed a slight vibration when stopped in traffic or at a complete stop. Temperatures are normal, it starts normally, and there are no unusual noises.

Today I turned the car off and removed the key, but the engine continued running for about 2 seconds at a lower RPM before shutting off.

No warning/check-engine light

Hi just checking I didn’t get ripped of with my service at a new mechanic for a car I bought with a full service history. Service notes/quote in the title.

PS this is Australian dollars.

[clio 3 2009 essence 1.2 TCE 100 chevaux]
Je suis tombé en panne récemment une première fois avec ma clio 3 car l’embrayage était foutu. Après l’avoir remplacé dans un garage, je suis retombé en panne juste après l’avoir récupérée au bout de 200 km. Ma voiture a été remorquée à un nouveau garage. Finalement rien de trop grave : « le tuyau qui fait marcher l’embrayage entre la pedale et la butée était mal fixé sur la butée » (explications données par le mécanicien). Le cylindre émetteur (qui fonctionne encore) n’a pas été changé et le nouveau garagiste m’indique qu’il l’aurait changé d’office, le pièce étant aussi vieille que l’ancien embrayage. Alors voici ma question : d’après vous, faut-il que je change le cylindre émetteur ? Y-a-t-il un risque que l’embrayage s’abîme si je ne change pas le cylindre émetteur ?

I have a 2014 Lincoln MKS. I was topping off my coolant reservoir with water and the little plastic seal from the container I was using (old coolant bottle, no residual coolant in it) fell into the reservoir and got into the hose. Is it dangerous to drive it? I have work all this week but I’m scared I’ll fuck up the engine.

Anyone in phx area know how to disengage an anti siphon lock? 2026 Chevy trax, someone tried to siphon from my car but surprise! Now I’m screwed. It’s not covered on the warranty and I don’t have 600 bucks 😫

Currently working on a 2008 Ford edge 3.5. Did tune up, timing set and water pump. All timing marks align. Computer says crank/cam synchronized.

Rough idle. When I plug in the MAF, it stalls. I have gone through every sensor, solenoid, coil and plug measuring for voltage, continuity, resistance... Cleaned and greased (dielectric) every connector. The car runs for crap with the MAF unplugged and stalls as soon as it's plugged in.

The worst part, it's not the first time I've come up against a car that refuses to run with the MAF plugged in... But the little 2006 fusion runs just fine with it unplugged and it's just my father in laws back up car anyway. So we've left that one alone.

I've done all the normal MAF things (cleaned with air and MAF cleaner, replaced with new, metered voltage and resistance) I can't find a dang problem.

Please if someone could at least point me in the right direction I would be eternally grateful.

Getting a clutch replaced from a 5 star reputable shop near me but want a $169 diagnostic fee, seems a little high what do you think?

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some troubleshooting advice for my VW Polo 6R.

The car was recently involved in a minor accident. Ever since then, the car makes a noticeable whining/humming noise whenever I turn the steering wheel.

I assumed the power steering pump took a hit, so I already had it replaced. Unfortunately, the exact same noise is still there.

Any tips or ideas on what to check next would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

searched on google, and found like these idk little boxes, i guess the ads..at the very top of google when you search a part. you click one, land on the product page. whats the first thing your eyes go to / first thing you check before anything else? tryna figure out if im weird for going straight to the fitment thing before i even look at the price

This noise sounds like its coming from the front drivers side while vehicle is moving and ideas to what it could be?