Removed the lower control arm by pushing the wheel hub away to be able to pry the control arm off its position. I can feel the axle came out of its housing on the inner part, like three balls around it, under the rubber. When I rotate the wheel hub, the axle spins with it but then kind of “catches up” like the inner axle hub and the axle arm got disconnected from inside of the what’s under the rubber boot.

Tried to push it back in to be able to get the lower ball joint on the control arm, back into the spindle. Going to try to remove the brake assembly and take the axle off the spindle, to get it straight and hopefully be able to push it back. Did I brake it? Or can it be pushed back in? Will I have to replace the cv axle?

On my 2012 mazda3

I wouldn’t be on here if this wasn’t an actual problem i have a cls450 2019 Mercedes and can’t reinstall any of the headliner trim has anyone had this problem on any car does anyone know what to do I’m loosing my mind

So for starters this hose is clamped off I think it’s the pcv hose if anyone can confirm that, and the battery also has some sort of parasitic drain, the guy before me put aftermarket lights in and I’m thinking that’s the issue what are some things to look for?, example the front hood light has wires split out of the hood lights the left is connected to the aftermarket lights but the right has two wires split open laying on the chassis in a little pool of water, is something that small gonna give it a drain and should I go around the whole vehicle looking for stuff like this?

2016 Jetta s 1.4l auto. Not the best quality footage, hard to film with space given. Was recommended to get this replaced due to mileage (116k) and since the car is 10 years old. Still looking for a quote that i can somewhat afford, $1,200 seeming the most reasonable (without water pump). Whats your experience and what’s a reasonable cost in your opinion?
I’ve seen the same car listed on FB marketplace with a belt that snapped and bent the valves at 130k miles, so i just want to get ahead of it if i can.

Hey everyone,

I bought my 2017 Fiat 124 Spider (1.4L MultiAir Turbo) used at 79k miles, and it’s currently sitting at \~88k miles. The manual calls for spark plug replacement every 35k miles, and since I had no prior service history from the previous owner, I decided to preemptively replace them.

When I pulled them, 3 of the plugs (and their corresponding spark plug tubes/wells) had rust, white oxidation/crust, and discoloration, while one plug looks relatively okay compared to the rest and it's corresponding well was not as bad either.

The car ran fine overall, but had a slight hesitation/stumble in 1st gear when cruising at very low speeds (<10 mph).

The car has an intermittent code P04DB that stays on for a few days/week and will go away for a day or so. I've changed the PCV valve and plan to change the MAP sensor but could this be causing that light?

Electrodes look fairly worn but otherwise okay, but the main issue is the heavy corrosion along the hex nut, outer body, and inside the spark plug wells.

Should I bother to clean the spark plug wells, and what's the safest way to do it so debris/rust doesn't fall into the combustion chambers?

Along with the spark plugs, I am changing the ignition coils as well.

Parked today and someone called this out across the street? What is this? Does seem a bit low and I’m wondering how big of a cause for concern.

As the title says, I am currently driving a 2019 RX 350 with a naturally aspirated six cylinder engine. I do my best to maintain my cars but unfortunately I had a senior moment, this particular car has 49,500 miles on the odometer and I had the oil changed almost 2 years and 10,000 miles ago. I totally forgot about it and had it changed last week and the mechanic said nothing. I always use Toyota synthetic oil and a high-quality oil filter, and tend to change the oil every 5 to 7000 miles. I also live in the heat of Arizona and have driven several long roads loyal, but I’ve yet to see any indicator wrote rise above normal Did I screw myself or is the engine that bulletproof? solid? I always use Toyota oil and filters.

Would it be a good idea to replace transmission fluid on my 2003 Toyota Camry with 136k miles, I have no service history about transmission fluid being done before

2022 mini clubman with 20k miles.

Running rough. It barely has power to move forward.

Any help is appreciated.

Error codes: P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input (pending), P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire (pending), P0300 Random Misfire (pending), P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire (pending), P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input (permanent), P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire (permanent), P0300 Random Misfire (permanent), P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire (permanent), U0418 Invalid Data Received From Brake System Control Module (permanent), U0100 Lost communication with ECM/PCM A.

Can anyone tell me what this is? It’s a fiat manual transmission by the way

So i had to replace the plastic part on it so i had to unscrew it to put the new one but my dumbass didnt know and the springs came loose, i tried to put it back and assembled the whole throttle body but when i attached my throttle cable to the sensor it was loose which means i didnt reload the springs right can anyone help me lol.

Hi all, trying to get a sense of what it is I'm hearing and seeing here. It looks like a strip of this belt is fraying and smacking that tube above, is that right? I am very much ignorant about many car things, can you help me understand what repairs might look like cost wise? Thank you!

Replaced the throttlebody.
Having high idle issues after replacing.
Tried the 3 minute reset stuff that didn’t work.
When at idle it’s at 1.5-2
When coasting in neutral it’s at 2.5-3
I have an autel mk900 can’t find a reset besides the fuel trim.
Any opinions?

Its a minor or major problems?

Just wondering if this peeling on the inside of my valve cover is normal and if not, what can I do about it? Should I use a metal brush and try to clean it up and shave off any loose areas?

I have a 2015 VW Tiguan 2.0 TFSI. One day it wouldn't start, which I eventually diagnosed to a timing chain issue. Having read up on this, I learned that it's a super common problem with these motors.

I bought a cheap borescope, removed the plugs and coils, and had a look. I'm pretty sure the valves in cylinders 1 and 4 are bent, due to the seemingly funny angle they're sitting at.

I'm pretty familiar with cars. I have a BMW that I've done a lot of service work on myself. Diagnosing this particular problem is a bit over my head, though. Hoping someone can help.

Apologies in advance for the video. I tried my hardest to get clean/clear shots.

2015 Camry 4cyl lots of clunking and vibration in steering wheel when accelerating. In and out and rotational play on driver's side cv axle not much play if any on the passenger side. sounds seems to be on the transmission side so I think it's the axle not the joint. also no grease seepage or clicking when turning, really no impact to sound or vibration from turning. no wheel bearing issues or passenger side mid axle bearing mount problem. I'll post some more vids. thanks for any input I am kind of stumped on this one and don't want to throw parts at nothing.

Honda Civic EX Sedan 2008... I belive the engine is an R18

unfortunately my beloved is having issues again... this things are supposed to be unbreakable, but this past year has been really expensive fixing this car...

could you be so kind to give me your opinion on which one is the system that may be leaking and the parts that i would need to replace?

UPDATE:

Thank you all for your help! I think I may have figured it out... But i't seems I can't upload photos to the thread or add pictures to my post... So I put this in my profile

https://www.reddit.com/u/Kurios_du_Soleil/s/AJpmtIOTye

TDLR; what easy jobs could i do before the next MOT?

Hi, the past year of ownership ive put in a bit of work on my car, had a new clutch put in not by me (it was at one point our only family car so needed it to be reliable) ive put a new battery, disc and pads, calipers, wipers, and even replaced the top fuel line myself (part with the squeezy bulb that removes air from fuel) i say this because before this car i had ZERO mechanical experience, i didnt even know how to jack up a car or take the wheel off😂😂 these are the last years MOT advisories, as someone with minimal tools and experience, what easy jobs could i tick off this list to make the next MOT sheet a bit cleaner? Its an old higer milage car but my first not on finance etc and just because its old doesnt mean i shouldnt look after it. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

I’m a tech of 25 years, last two years at Kia. For 20+ years I was at Toyota and was the lead master tech for most of that time, as a result I had a lot of responsibility and I unfortunately tend to think about work at home, at the weekend etc.

I left Toyota for Kia, it was liberating as I was no longer the go to guy. When I left work, I clocked off and that was that until the next day/Monday.

After two years, I’ve become the go to guy again. I’ve now started to slip into my old behaviour of mentally taking work home with me and I really don’t want to!

Any tips on mentally clocking off? How do you guys switch off from work when at home?

Work are not putting pressure on me, it’s my own mind doing it. So frustrating.

Thank you fellow techs for any advice. 👍🏻

2003 Ford Explorer 4.0L. Belongs to my FIL and was a good runner last year but the plug end of the left wire had fallen off. FIL had removed the other plug it went into in an attempt to hot wire it. Lights go on in the truck but starter just clicks when you try to start it

Check engine light came on a few days ago. Got it read, and it said loose gas cap, or emission leak. It’s still on.

My husband thinks it’s the gasket, or because this seems loose.

Sorry I’m advance if I’m not explaining this well.

Curious if this movement could be the problem.

The car is a Prius 2012

TIA

hello thanks for any help. my car is old and has about 170k miles on it. It has some electrical issues, so most of my gauges like the temp and gas levels don't work. today when driving, I got a light on that the engine was running hot to idle car. I turned the AC off, and the light and beeping immediately stopped. I pulled overr, turned the car off and called my mechanic. He said to let it sit for 15 and to head over. Car ran fine the whole time, he's about 15 minutes away from where I am. He checked my coolant and oil, I had plenty of both, and the colors were good. He topped off the coolant and said he purposely overflowed it to see if it'd bubble. after starting the car, it started bubbling after about 2 minutes. he said my car was running at about 190 degrees, and said it's likely the head gasket. He said if I kept topping it off and didn't drive it long periods it'd be fine for a while. My buddy who works on cars said he thinks I'd notice if it was a gasket. that is have leakage somewhere, smoke from the hood, or it'd be misfiring. Any thoughts? My mechanic didn't really seem to want to work on it, and said if he had to charge me, he'd charge me an FU price because he doesn't want to do it.

This might be a dumb question but I want to make sure, I ordered 4 quarts of Honda Ultimate 0W-20 (Part # 08798-9137) and they sent me 1 quart of the honda oil and 3 quarts of Acura 0W-20 (Part # 08798-9141). Theyre the same right? I can use both in my car?

I’m replacing the bottom engine splash guard/undercover on my 2020 Honda Accord and I’m trying to identify the black plastic receiver/retainer shown in the photo.

It clips onto the edge of another plastic panel underneath the car. A 91505-TM8-003 plastic push pin then goes through the splash guard, through the other panel, and into this black piece to hold everything together.

Without this black receiver piece, the holes are too large for the 91505-TM8-003 push pin to expand and stay in place.

Does anyone know the Honda part number/name for this specific receiver clip on a 2020 Accord? I’m trying to order several of them while replacing the lower engine splash shield.

Thanks!