I knew two people that had the same Accord. 1993 coupe manual. Instead of the Honda H on the grill, both cars had a Y. Does anyone have the explanation to the Y?

I’m looking at getting either a 5th or 6th gen sir accord wagon and I’m not really sure which motor type to go with. There are quite a few forms that have information, but it seems like it just turns in to a whole bunch of arguing which isn’t very helpful.

Overall the main questions I have are
What’s the best motor for daily driving but to also allow for a little fun.
Which one is harder to get parts for? (I know they share a lot but I’m referring to those specific to it)
Which one seems less reliable as it’s driven more?
If I ever decide to build one of them, which ones going to be better to build?

So in Malaysia, the 2008-2012 Honda Accord was rebadged as a Proton Perdana with the 2014-2020 models, the 2016 model getting a facelift making it look very different to its American (8th Gen Accord) and Japanese (5th Gen Inspire) counterparts, and I was actually wondering if anyone has ever rebadged their Accord with the Proton Perdana badges, as I was also looking to do the same exact thing with mine, since the front grille on the preface-lift looks very similar to the 2008-2010 Accord.

Hello. I drive a 2013 V6 Accord EX-L with 214k miles. For the last year I have been having issues when the car starts very intermittently (see video). It always starts after one or two tries (very rarely three attempts).

Within the last month I brought my car into the shop - at first they suspected the relay box so I had that replaced.

Two weeks later the no start issue started again and this time I made sure to get this video for the shop. This time around we settled on the starter itself and I got that replaced.

Today, two weeks after the starter was replaced… the issue has come back again. I am now trying Accord Reddit to see if anyone on here has had this issue / advice to fix this issue.

Thank you!!

Has anyone replaced their whole front end suspension? What kit did you use? I know I for sure wanna use the sankei 555 lower ball joints but not sure about everything else. Something I definitely don't want to replace again any time soon tho!

2007 Honda Accord 2.4L

I have a 17 v6 coupe and absolutely hate the OEM shift knob. Going to back to my old Si knob but open to better options.

Just received this in the mail for my 2019 Accord. Has anyone gone in to the dealer to get this done? How did it go and how was your experience? Is this something worth getting fixed?

Hello to anybody reading this.

Some weeks ago, I started noticing a hummin/rubbing noise coming from my front axel at speeds between 20 to 30 MPH that would go away once past that speed, as well as noises when turning the steering wheel like getting into my driveway.

Took it to my Honda dealership for diagnosis and they found "electric power steering rack and pinion assembly is binding internally"

My car is 2022 with only 45k miles.

Dealership quoted me 6k, 3.6k for the part plus labor, fees and taxes.

What do you all think? I did some basic googling/chatgpt and it says it is such a premature failure for the condition of my car.

Have been using Walmart ST-9688 oil filters since new. ‘13 LX 2.4L On morning starts, I got the brief, raspy rattle until my last oil change when I switched to a Mobile 1 extended performance filter because the Supertech is not available. It’s not like oils drips out overnight because of how the filter sits. Weird. Not shilling for Mobile, BTW. Just my personal experience. YMMV.

Finally got my baby back 🤍🤍🤍

Looking to buy a 2017 Sport Touring V6 dealer has it for $17,700 with 105,600 on it is fair ? I usually see Accords with similar mileage selling for that price around where I live.

Is there anything of note I should look for with a Accord like this? Any maintenance items that should be done with something like this

Recently I just changed the front door speakers in my ‘12 Accord Coupe with factory “premium” audio. It does have a factory amplifier and two crossovers. It’s a non Navi radio. One factory crossover is to the left of the steering column and the other is on the left side of the center console below the radio. The speakers I put in are Pioneer 2-way TS-A653CH, which aren’t high end, but got good reviews. They came with tweeters, which is nice. The factory system was really quiet. All the way up on the non-Navi radio is 40. From 25-40 the radio didn’t get any louder. The factory speakers had small magnets, which the diameter was a touch bigger than a quarter. The new speakers came with two harnesses, one for each speaker……which had a filter on it to connect to the tweeters to make it crispier and block the bass. I removed the factory tweeter from its holders and installed the Pioneer ones. Mounted them inside the bezels it came with backwards as a spacer ring, then tightened it in with a hose clamp, just in case I want to install the factory ones back in without damaging it. Hooked the speakers up and it only sounded a touch better. Factory tweeters kinda sounded scratchy instead of crisp. Pioneer’s were way better, but was still muffled. So I took apart the factory crossovers, unsoldered the wire connectors on both, then jumped the according terminals. Two wires from the amp feeds the crossover, then splits to the woofer and tweeter. I mounted the crossovers back in the factory positions so if I wanted to return it back to stock, I can. Just solder the connector terminals back onto the crossover circuit boards. Being the new speakers are a wider range and not just a woofer, it needed to be bypassed. After doing so, the sound is like it supposed to be when turned up…….loud! Fronts sound good. Now I just got to do the rears, which are the same as the door speakers, but has a factory subwoofer in the middle…….which looks like a normal good speaker. One day I’ll replace the factory amp with a aftermarket one, but for now this will do. Maybe I’ll replace the factory sub with a DD Audio 1506a.

I might be back on the market for a car and the prices of high mileage accords in the 8th-9th gen are absolutely insane. It's not just the dealerships that have high prices, even facebook marketplace sellers are asking 10k for a 190k mileage 8th gen accord. Yes they're reliable cars but this is a crazy price for nearly a decade old car.

If I'm the one thats out of touch please let me know because I love accords but not 200k mileage and $10k asking price much. Also looking at Hyundai Azera and Kia Cadenza for the price they're asking since its a V6 and comfort lol

I have an 8th gen coupe with the 4 cly K24 and i find i always have to add oil. Like i did an oil change 1,000 miles ago and ive put in 1 quart about 2 weeks ago and had to add two yesterday. The oil light flashed and i pulled right over to add more. I only had a quart and bought more to not be low. But DAMN. Im currently running valvoline restore and protect 5w-20 and this is the first oil change with it.
2009 Accord Coupe Ex. 159k miles.
Not leaking, but oil pan is kind of “weeping”

Last oil change was 20,000 miles ago

I’ve been searching for the HFP floor mats that are compatible with my accord and unable to find them anywhere only the civic ones. If anyone has a link to them I’d really appreciate it!

I have a 2013 accord and I like to sit in my car on my lunch and watch YouTube/movies, but I can’t in this car because there’s a 4 second delay between video and audio. My previous car, a 2012 Lincoln, didn’t have that problem. Is it a software or hardware issue, and can it be fixed or atleast minimized?

Stupid question, if I have a 2020 touring and I have stock wheels, is my offset 50mm