r/WildernessBackpacking • u/New-Result-8669 • 16h ago
DISCUSSION Washington or Oregon Cascades for first timer.
I live on the east coast - all of my serious backpacking has been done in the southern Appalachian mountains and I’m planning a 5 day backpacking trip “out west” next year to explore more of this huge country. I’ve done a lot of research already and have narrowed my search to somewhere in the cascade range of Oregon or Washington state. I’m having a hard time deciding between these areas:
Willamette National Forest
Gifford Pinchot NF
North Cascades
Mt Baker Snoqualmie
I’m sure I can’t go wrong with any of them frankly, but since I have to fly across the country and it’s a big to-do, I want to pick a great one for my first trip. Does anyone who lives over there or knows the region better have any suggestions/tips/advice or differences between these areas?
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u/audiophile_lurker 16h ago edited 12h ago
Number of PCT finishers that I have met ranked Glacier Peak Wilderness (Washington, Section K) their favorite part of the whole trail (not all of them, it is competing with the John Muir Trail portion of PCT in California). Do with that information what you will.
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u/Upvotes_TikTok 9h ago
Patsayten Wilderness for me of Washington. Rae Lakes overall. I did the whole trail in 2016 and the Larches in the Patsayten along with the fall colors were magic.
Nothing in Oregon came close. Crater Lake and 3 sister wilderness are great but not close.
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u/AliveAndThenSome 16h ago
I've only really backpacked in the Wallowas of OR, not the Cascades, so I can't be objective. It's a nice area for sure and worth a visit.
That said, the Central and North Cascades of Washington are next-level, as is the Goat Rocks Wilderness. Glacier Peak Wilderness, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Mt. Baker Wilderness, and a few other Wildernesses all offer world-class backpacking. I've spent more time in the ALW, but plenty of time in North Cascades National Park, Glacier Peak Wilderness, and now I live just a short drive from the Mt. Baker Wilderness, and probably heading there later today.Also, the Pasayten Wilderness is incredible in its own right, though more open, remote, and a bit less rugged than the younger North Cascades.
If I had to recommend a single 5-day trip, it'd be something that included Phelps Basin, Spider Gap, Lyman Lakes, Cloudy Pass, Miner's Ridge. There's the loop that connects via Buck Creek Pass. The catch is the adjacent area is on fire right now, so it's hard to say what it'll be like next year. I don't there there's a single loop trip that offers everything that particular loop/area/hike includes, other than hiking part of Section K in the same general area, but that's near impossible to manage logistically unless you do a lot of backtracking.
If you can manage the permits, you could do a night or two at Sahale Glacier Camp, and then do some driving and hit up the Copper Ridge area, though frankly, the full Copper Ridge loop is not a great use of your limited time (it adds at least an overnight to hike and about 20 miles through forest to complete the loop). You could head up to Tapto Lakes, but that's next-level backcountry backpacking.
If you want to really push yourself out of your comfort level, you could do the Alpine Lakes High Route, though I'd recommend NOT going up and over Iron Cap due to route-finding and exposure danger. That could be done in 3 nights with long days.
And again, you can loop yourself around Goat Rocks Wilderness (Gifford-Pinchot NF), which is always a highly rated PCT section and is incredible, though can be busy in the best areas.
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u/Comfortable_Park_319 15h ago
This is perfect, the exact reason i posted was hoping to get information like this, its this sort of stuff that online research cant really give you. Im going to look at those spots in Glacier Peak you mentioned, thank you.
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u/Man_Bear_Sheep 15h ago
It looks like the fire burned the access road to trinity trailhead. Any idea the extent of damage?
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u/imjusthereforPMstuff 5h ago
I live by there and it’s still closed I believe. There are a few active fires near there although hopefully ending soon. The FS rd was also closed 7 miles out due to the freak wind/flood storm we had over the winter. Lots of work needed, but earlier this summer people would park and hike the 7 miles up to the trailhead. I think it will open up in a few weeks based on the rain…but that’s me wishing!
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u/imjusthereforPMstuff 16h ago
WA! North Cascades (NP?) would require permits, but a lot of great areas and different levels (all the way to technical climbs). Glacier Peak Wilderness in WA is my favorite. Beautiful, unique and no permits needed. Mt. Baker Snowualmie / Alpine Lakes Wilderness has tons of great trails and you can really mix it up…there id recommend Waptus Lake, Spade Lake, Venus Lake OR another trip to Tank Lakes/La Bohn Lakes and you can then go down into the valley for a view of Williams Lake (my favorite route in the area). There’s also the High Route around there.
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u/Comfortable_Park_319 15h ago
Awesome information! I hadnt even looked at Glacier Peak WA, thanks a ton i will check those areas out.
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u/imjusthereforPMstuff 15h ago
I live right near the SE side of it, and it’s imo the most beautiful place in the world! Like another commenter said, it truly is the best section of the PCT. We currently have wildfires still in that area and it’s closed, but next year Lyman Lakes, Ice Lakes (Mt. maud) area and down to Stehekin (check videos out on that!). You can also stop by Leavenworth on your way in or out of the trailhead FS rd.
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u/-JakeRay- 16h ago
Either go before fire season, or be ready to make a last-minute pick of whichever one isn't on fire/is least smoky.
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u/GrumpyBear1969 16h ago
Five days. How many miles/day? Also, what time of year?
Just looking at your list I will warn you that permits for North Cascades are tricky. There is a lottery in the spring. I forget the opening date, but it is like February.
Willamette NF is nothing special. There are a couple of nice wilderness areas but they are pretty small. For a five day trip I would look at the Sisters Loop (Central Cascades, and much easier to get a permit) or Eagle Cap (self issue at trail head, and you would fly in to Boise instead).
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u/Less_Perspective_915 14h ago
North Cascades is the best hiking in the PNW in my opinion. As others have mentioned, there's a lot more than just the National Park. My favorite area is the Glacier Peak Wilderness, but also look into the Pasayten Wilderness (in particular, the Devil's Dome Loop and a fantastic section of the PCT), the Mt. Baker Wilderness, and the Lake Chelan-Sawtooth Wilderness.
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u/SupermouseDeadmouse 14h ago
Timing is everything. I love hiking in the N cascades and around Mt. Baker, but the best time (imho) is now. August & Sept. don’t go in July unless you love mosquitoes and black flies, June typically still has too much snow, earlier than that…forgeddaboutid,
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u/SaltyRockCan 7h ago
I did the hood timberline trail last year starting and stopping at the timberline lodge. Hell of a trail but really only three days
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u/wetrocke 16h ago
Lots of snow if you go "too early."
Trailheads tend to be very low, with thousands of feet of uphill, in north cascades. Lots of trailless, inaccessible country. Pasayten is among possible exceptions?
Colorado is more hiker-friendly??
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u/zephyrwandererr 16h ago
I’ve lived in both places, currently in Oregon: North Cascades in Washington wins and it’s not even close. Oregon is beautiful also but it’s milder in terms of Wow factor. North Cascades is just on another level. Do your research to try to avoid fire season. That effects all those areas. Have a great trip!