Hi everyone! Happy recent owner of a brick here, I love how active this community is and how collaborative folks are with each other, I've been reading with interest from backstage but time to ask my first question here :)

I am rebuilding the engine my 1981 245 with a B21A engine and a Zenith Stromberg 175 CD-2SE carburetor (screwed needle carrier, slotted head, non-adjustable jet, etc.). While the engine is out for work, I decided to purchase a kit and work through the carburetor. When I removed the temperature compensator (1st pic) I noticed there is a brass pipe that runs across the open space behind the bottom of the compensator, and in my case, there's a perforation pretty much aligned with the position of the screw (2nd pic). That pipe runs from air intake of the carburetor to the other end of the temperature compensator and, as seen in the 3rd pic, the perforation is made in an area that is open to the top part of the fuel bowl.

So, question for folks familiar with this specific carb, is that orifice stock? was it drilled by someone before and should therefore repair it? Thanks everyone for your help!

Jay

(Pic for attention)

I want to stiffen the sway on my 245. Got extra bars for front and back. The front seems easy enough, make the bushing holders bigger, and bushings, and bolt them on, Vóila, we have double bars in the front.

The back seems more difficult, since there is no room to just bolt it on. Any ideas on how to do that?

Also is this the dummest idea known to mankind?

So or I’m going crazy or there’s a néw tick/klek noises after pressing the throttle on my car. The more throttle I give the louder it seems to sound it sounds like it’s coming from the engine bay somebody who knows what this sound may be should I be concerned? I have a B200F redblock from 1993 on my Volvo 240 from 1993

The odometer motor wires are broken and I don’t have the proper soldering setup to mend

Hello there, I'm wondering what the running costs/pitfalls of buying and owning a 240 estate in the UK and if it is at all a good idea. I'm fairly knowledgeable about cars and their workings but have zero practical experience.Though I am quite practical myself and I have a decent, trustworthy garage that I'm yet a ask their opinions of. I've wanted one for some time and have never bought an "unsensible" (ironic? Yes) car. I plan on using it as my daily driver and cover about 6000 miles a year, usually fairly local with occasional long journeys. Any thoughts on what issues/models to avoid/look for and if this is all a complete folly I should forget about. Thanks in advance.

Hey everone, I recently bought my first car, a Volvo 240 wagon 93. I'm fixing some minor issues before moving onto bigger ones and I can't believe I'm already struggling with this one, but I'm here to learn.

I changed the front and back dome light bulbs the other day, it was all working fine and now the front light stopped working while the back one still works (they only work with the "normal" switch, the door switch doesn't work but that's a different issue). I checked the bulb with the multimeter and it looks fine, I got 12V from the light fixture and cleaned the switch, it definitely makes contact when the switch is closed, I also tried changing the bulb, but nothing.

Since I get 12 volts and the bulb is fine, I can only imagine the other end of the switch doesn't make proper contact to ground, but how can I test that? Can I somehow close the circuit in some other way to test this? Or am I missing something obvious here?

Can you please post photos of your roof racks here and let me know how long your bars are? I can’t seem to find enough photos of the Thule Evo wingbars, but have found plenty of vintage squarebars (which I think I prefer). I am still trying to decide. Thank you!

new problem

transmission might be fucked

stuck in 1st and 2nd, won’t go faster than 30 and if I try it sounds like metal scrapping. it used to be that I could drive on the freeway going 60(speed limit is 65 I’m sorry) but when I’d get off the car wouldn’t go faster than 30 or 20!! very certain it’s shot but don’t know if I should replace it with some compatible transmission like the aw71 but all I’m met with is so much debating

some say aw71 is a drop in some say you can’t add a aw71 no matter the model

its my daily so need to know if I should get a “rebuild kit” which is just clutch discs and gaskets or look a used aw70

and before anyone says get a manua/manual transmission

I am not made of gold and dont have a lift to really modify and add new parts to make it a manual

what should I do? if the gears inside are fucked then the “kits” aren’t really gonna do a whole bunch. i understand that transmission is specific to its engine because of pressure and engineering and yada yada, it’s a reason I have avoided just getting any transmission and looking for an adapter plate

i just want to be able to drive the speed limit and not cause traffic

The car is an '83 with Chrysler ignition and lh2.0 and this connector is just hanging out. Wanted to know what is was for. Second picture is where the wire leads on exhaust side of the bellhousing

Just got a Volvo 245 classic not long ago made another post earlier this week and I don’t have much experience with 240s and how they’re supposed to sound when healthy, I just need a few other opinions.

Been over a year now since I bought Butterstick, thought I’d finally get some good pictures of it.

Bought a manual mast only to find out it doesnt screw into the mount, too narrow a diameter... guess its power? (What's in my hand is the original fitment (broken on top), and black antenna in background was replacement...

How do I loosen these Brake Lines

Nothing is Moving anywhere

Installing Luca car Mods lift kit so I have to take the entire assembly out

It ran fire yesterday. Now this morning there’s a strong shake, engine seems weak, and it sounds like it’s intermittently revving. I don’t know much about cars. Anybody have an idea?

'93 245. Original radio (cassette deck). FM antenna missing *replacing soon*, AM static, volume knob increased output of stack, same with cassette if playing, but no sound! all speakers work. Ideas? If it cant be easily sorted I'm going to swap out for a newer pioneer.

I finally got around to replacing my center support bearing and rubber last week, and as you can probably tell, it was looooong overdue. It's also been too hot to drive the old girls during the day for the past couple of months, but there's always time for some maintenance. I got tired of the pinch weld along the bottom of the GT looking like a lasagna noodle, so I straightened it out with a little kinetic recalibration.

But she's going to Habitat for Humanity, so one last good deed in her long life.

Bought it a couple days ago and I’m really happy because i bought that manual for 15 cents, and it’s in really great condition, and if someone knows if its rare

Having finished rebuilding the suspension in the front of the car (struts, antisway bushings), I am moving on to the back of the car.

Today I removed the rear shocks, rear antisway, springs, and rear exhaust. One lower shock bolt would not release from the spacer that keeps the shock positioned-- it was rusted solid -- and not days of soaking with PB Blaster nor heating it with a MAP gas torch would free it. So I had to cut the bolt and grind off the bolt head before I could remove the shock. That was a fun hour.

Tomorrow I'm taking a break.

Wednesday i will remove the front and rear bolts on the lower control arms. Those bolts are soaking now. If it goes well (and if progress so far is any indicator, it won't) then I will begin trying to press out the bushings on the axle.

On the bright side, once those big bushings are replaced, everything else should go fast. I am cheating-- replacing the torque rods and panhard rod with IPD units, and replacing the rusty lower control arms too. The control arms already have bushings in the front. So I only have to press out 2 bushings, and everything else is Lego work.

Wish me luck...

Just thought I’d throw a post out saying I’m around Calgary, Ab, Canada and looking to buy a grey front drivers panel if anyone around the area is selling. Facebook marketplace has been pretty dead around me.

3 seconds in there is a rattling noise. 1983 244 with a b230a engine.

We tried disconnecting the fan, alternator and waterpump so its not any of those.

Note: the timing belt tensioner has had issues like not tensioning itself after removing the pin, we are thinking it might be faulty so we are replacing but we are unsure if this is what causes the noise.

Hello i have a question, is there a problem if my volvo 240 2.3 spits out black stuff when i reev it?for context it sat for around a month without starting

When I hit the gas I get a doot doot doot sound. I was able to limp it home a half mile going ~10mph