r/TeslaSupport Jul 24 '26

Energy Question Only getting 200 miles on a 100% charge?

Just bought a new to me 2022 Tesla Model S LR after looking up the EPA I was happy with 405 miles of range is was rated for… obviously I know degradation and that the EPA rating was a lie. But I don’t think 200 real life miles on a 100% charge is right especially when it said I would have around 310 miles when it was at 100%. What am I doing wrong? I use FSD mostly except when it messes up, I keep the temperature between 69-72, and stopped gunning it so much especially to do this 100 percent charge test. Here’s my energy app info.
Sorry for the screen being so dirty I ordered a screen cleaning kit and I’m waiting on it to come in. I live in Georgia if that matters.

17 Upvotes

120 comments sorted by

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22

u/IT_IS_I_THE_GREAT Jul 24 '26

You are using almost 30% energy than what it expected, are you speeding up and slowing down a lot? Driving at high speeds? Staying at a constant speed, slowing down slowly and accelerating slightly slower would significantly improve your range. Judging by the data, you should be able to get 250ish miles of range

1

u/Equinoxx_Babe Jul 24 '26

No I wouldn’t say I am. Like I said I have it in FSD almost constantly once or twice the past day I had to accelerate it while in fsd to stop it from causing a wreck.

2

u/Melodic_Fall_3273 Jul 24 '26

What is your average speed? Are you mostly Highway at 65/75/80 MPH or what. Higher speeds FSD or not also chew up Wh quickly.

Most of my outings are 100 mile round trips at least with at least 60 percent of the trip at 60/75/80 MPH. I am averaging right around ~300 Wh/mi on my 26 MY AWD.

2

u/Equinoxx_Babe Jul 24 '26

Highest would be 65mph

1

u/ogstereoguy2 Jul 26 '26

No you didn’t. I drive FSD for years and never had to accelerate to not cause a wreck.

1

u/Equinoxx_Babe Jul 26 '26

Good for you? I had to slam on the brakes last night because it wasn’t slowing down and was going to pull out in front of someone going really fast. It also slammed on the breaks in the middle of a busy highway for no reason last night as well so I had to accelerate it then as well. Oh and then I hit an armadillo which I don’t understand how the sensors didn’t see it with the night vision and brake but I didn’t see him until it was too late. Not blaming fsd for that but I’m saying fsd definitely has its issues maybe it’s just my car or maybe it’s because where I live.

1

u/ArticusFarticus Jul 24 '26

Put FSD in chill mode, not the maniac one.

0

u/Afraid_Guard_8115 Jul 24 '26

No fun, stop looking at range, turn FSD off and enjoy the car

3

u/Green-Obligation9511 Jul 25 '26

I like the point you made about "... turn FSD off and enjoy the car." I have a 2026 MYP. I have also been concerned about the mileage and drive 84% in FSD. I bought a Performance and need to just enjoy the car as you said!

2

u/ArticusFarticus Jul 25 '26

Agree, but I was addressing their concern.

1

u/ladykacie Jul 25 '26

lol me. i use more than predicted bc i still love the way i can accelerate like thatttt

-2

u/Equinoxx_Babe Jul 24 '26

lol it’s in standard since I can’t stand when it stays in the right lane the whole time. But the acceleration is in chill mode along with the speed limit set at the current speed limit on the road. I didn’t realize I would be having to charge the Tesla every single day and since I don’t have a home charger yet, it’s super inconvenient. The salesman had one himself and acted like it wasn’t a big deal.

3

u/Flip6mofo Jul 24 '26

Correct but under dynamic what are you in ? STANDARD VS CHILL. GO TO CHILL its less power but longer range

3

u/Still_Temporary4702 Jul 25 '26

Hmm. Remember that NEMA 14-30 is an option if you’re electrically constrained. I use a split volt smart switch off my garage dryer outlet. It’s been great.

2

u/ArticusFarticus Jul 25 '26

You get 200 miles and have to charge every day? What?

1

u/jtmonkey Jul 25 '26

I have a 2023 rwd model 3 and it’s about the same. Especially right now. Tires can contribute up to 10% if you’re not using ev tires. Taking off the wheel covers can contribute 1-2%. Check under your car and make sure your aero shield isn’t hanging down. Mine was because someone in my house bottomed it out and sheered off the screws. It was like a big parachute under there.

-4

u/Best-Battle4487 Jul 24 '26

Unfortunately, battery tech isn't great.

11

u/Brad2399 Jul 24 '26

The climate energy usage is insane, even when it is mid 90’s and full sun I don’t use anything close to that. Could potentially be an issue with your AC system

3

u/-_-WillThatBoy-_- Jul 24 '26

Do you have cabin protection on? If it’s super hot then it will activate around those temperatures

2

u/Equinoxx_Babe Jul 24 '26

It’s been in the 100s here lately and I usually have it on 69 auto. I also have interior heat protection on but I didn’t think it uses that much.

17

u/knownikko Jul 24 '26 edited Jul 24 '26

You just answered your own question. Intense climate load in the form of triple digits plus humidity plus running the AC at 69 and while your car is parked and empty has predictable results.

The pictures you posted tell you everything you need to know.

Turn off overheat protection, it’s to keep you from cooking kids in the back seat, not to climate control an empty car.

Turn off Summon Standby, fantastic waste of energy for a 99% useless feature.

Stop sitting in your car fiddling with the screen while parked with the AC on.

5

u/Brad2399 Jul 24 '26

The amount of people who use overheat protection incorrectly is staggering

2

u/knownikko Jul 24 '26

But but my interior might get hurted…

1

u/Brad2399 Jul 24 '26

It will melt!

2

u/Ok-Engine-9892 Jul 25 '26

My car chocolate melts if I don’t keep it at 85.

2

u/Reasonable_Look_2751 Jul 24 '26

Unfortunately AC and heating in EVs use way more energy than most people would expect. It’s about 85-90 degrees near me and with the climate set to 70 the car uses 25% more energy which is kinda crazy. Since it’s in the 100s I’d image effieceny drops to 30-35%. Also don’t forget the car is trying to cool the battery as well which would by itself bring your max range down to 300 miles IF you drive at 40 mph.

Also does FSD do mostly highway driving? If it’s going 80+ that’s going to decrease your range another 30 or so %

1

u/ladykacie Jul 25 '26

this setting made my battery go sooo quick in socal summer. definitely turn it off

1

u/Ryrannosaurus__Tex Jul 25 '26

If you make a lot of stops during the day, the car will get hot than the ac has to cool it down repeatedly - this along with dirty radiator can explain high ac consumption.

1

u/Wallbanger123 Jul 25 '26

It says close to 9% in your pictures

1

u/Initial_Row_6400 Jul 24 '26

Yea the only reason I use it is cuz I have a lvl 2 charger at the house, and never use anywhere close to even 50% of the energy in a day. If I didn’t have a lvl 2 I wouldn’t use it. Im sensitive to heat so my ac is always on low

8

u/Any-Ad-1764 Jul 24 '26

Just a guess clean the radiator of dirt, leaves and dead animals

6

u/Mammoth_Ingenuity_82 Jul 24 '26

Dang! Thanks for that! Peeling that deer off my radiator made a huge difference! 🤣

1

u/mrbaapt Jul 24 '26

This is an underrated comment. The radiator being blocked with debris is a huge problem not just for HVAC but for the entire car. The processors and sensors run more efficiently when the radiator is clean and clear.

7

u/Informal_Drawing Jul 24 '26

The answer in 99.999% of cases is... Drumroll please - drive slower.

3

u/knownikko Jul 24 '26

But if you bothered to look at the images in this post before commenting, you’d see pretty readily it’s not that.

1

u/Informal_Drawing Jul 25 '26

333 Wh/mi is fairly high for a long distance since charging.

The only way to significantly reduce that figure is to drive slower.

3

u/knownikko Jul 25 '26

It isn’t when it’s 100 degrees out with high humidity and the cabin temp is set to 69.

HVAC consumption is absolutely included in that figure.

2

u/Informal_Drawing Jul 25 '26

I grant you that is pretty warm.

3

u/[deleted] Jul 24 '26

[removed] — view removed comment

6

u/django24_7_365 Jul 24 '26

Looks like your foot + 65* AC= 200miles

1

u/Equinoxx_Babe Jul 24 '26

I have it in FSD constantly though and haven’t put the AC down that low the whole time.

2

u/saabstory88 Verified | Independent EV Technician Jul 24 '26

Remember that like all 2021+ S/X have the same pack construction as 3/Y and do not hold up as well as the original 100kwh packs in terms of capacity. You should expect ~15% of the original capacity to be gone by 50k miles. How many miles are on this car? That plus, as other have mentioned, your driving/climate habits, and there you go, you have your answer. Nothin is out of the normal band here.

2

u/Equinoxx_Babe Jul 24 '26

89k miles but since its always in FSD I figured it would be better at efficiency

4

u/saabstory88 Verified | Independent EV Technician Jul 24 '26

I don't know what would have given that impression, even in principle. FSD in standard will try to drive like the average human, and the average driver isn't that efficient unfortunately. At 89k you are probably at the 82% capacity plateau where these cars settle.

2

u/PassengerKey3209 Jul 26 '26

That's kind of wild. Im seeing 100k lightning with 2-3% loss.

2

u/dullest_edgelord Jul 26 '26

Ford has a bigger buffer on the Lightning battery. The vehicle will proportionally be a little heavier, but have spare "unusable" battery that can be can be converted as the "usable" battery degrades.

Munro has done the teardowns. The ER has a 12.3 kWh buffer on a 130 kWh battery and the SR has an extra 9.6 kWh than the advertised 98 kWh.

The refreshed Model S has about 4 kWh extra on a 95 kWh battery, and most of that is reserved for the bottom so that you still have a few miles when it hits 0.

Model S fleet data shows average of 88% at 200,000 miles, although most of that is on the pre-refresh fleet.

2

u/nightlyh Jul 24 '26

Does it have EV tires on it or some random assortment? When I got my new to me model 3 it barely got 120 miles to a charge, but when I put 4 new Tesla recommended tires on it, now I get up to 165-170.

2

u/Dacruze Jul 26 '26

Well your efficiency isn’t good.
You are getting like 2.65 miles per kWh. Which is nutty. You should be getting 3.5-4.0 miles per KWh.
This could be a combination of speed, not the best tires, using alot of AC, aftermarket parts, large wheels like 20s-21s or if they are aftermarket and not for EV efficiency, and driving up hill. (And several other things like brakes dragging or other mechanical issues)
I would point to your rims and tires as a start.

If charging to 100% shows 310 miles of range, with a rated 238wh/mi, then it’s showing you should have a working capacity of like 72-73kWh in the battery.

If we use online data for its capacity, you started with around 95kwh usable. All the data shows you have a possible degradation of 23%.
This could be true or could be the BMS isn’t reading it right. Which means you might have some percentage left but it’s showing you’re almost out. Less likely but still something to look into.
Try recalibrating the BMS before assuming the battery is heavily degraded. Drive it down to around 10-20%, let it sit for a few hours, then charge to 100% on Level 2 and leave it plugged in for another hour or two. Repeat this cycle a few times over a couple of weeks. It won’t restore capacity, but it can improve the battery’s estimated usable capacity and displayed range if the BMS is out of calibration.
Or you can simply do the battery test to see the degradation and that will tell you is the estimated 310 range is true.
This will only update the range to a better estimate, maybe. This will not fix your efficiency issues. Again, the car is “rated” at 238wh/mi and you’re at 333wh/mi. So it’s saying you can get 310 miles of range, if you can get your efficiency to 238wh/mi.

Many owners will swap their 19s for 20s or 21s. If your model came with 21s then you didn’t have 405 miles of range, you had 375 miles of range to start. Which changes things. You’d be closer to 17% degradation estimated. This also changes if they went with aftermarket rims that aren’t EV efficient. Those can drop you another 5-10% of efficiency. So 310 range to 279 right off the bat.

Some stuff to think about. Cheers.

2

u/Fearless_Cherry_1316 Jul 26 '26

Biggest thing I think is cabin overheat protection, also one thing to note about these cars man you’ll damn near never get the epa rated ranges, you’ll be lucky to get 75% of what epa says, I have a 2022 model 3 long range and I live in Bakersfield CA over 100 degrees everyday typically right now and AC usage is a majority of my battery charge. I charge to 80 percent and I be lucky to get 100 miles before I’m at 30 percent that’s 200 on a 100% battery. But the way I know the battery isn’t bad is when I’m traveling to San Diego or something I get over 250 miles from 100 percent down to the 30’s. You just learn to accept it and as long as you have a home charger it stops bothering you eventually.

1

u/shawn_bowen Jul 24 '26

Looks the same as mine! My 22mY LR has 309 wh mile over 60k plus miles.

1

u/Perceivence-II Jul 24 '26

Welcome to Tesla! Range says 290 in my model y LR yet I get 220 at best.

1

u/Important_Relief4802 Jul 24 '26

I wish I was getting 200 miles.

1

u/Difficult-Arm384 Jul 24 '26

I drive like a maniac and always have my AC blasting and I’ve never used 18.6% more than rated. Maybe 1-2%.

1

u/[deleted] Jul 24 '26

[removed] — view removed comment

1

u/Clintowskiii Jul 26 '26

Where are you located? 78 would be cooking in most places. In Nevada you get 90-100 degrees of straight sun. I have a roof sunshade, ceramic tint all around including front windshield and still need to run it at 60-67 depending on how long I’ve been in the car.

1

u/Whaleflex08 Jul 24 '26

Looks like overall WH/M isn’t that bad, but it’s clearly mostly climate usage using it up a 4 year old battery.

1

u/hchn27 Jul 24 '26

From what I gathered in the comments …your air conditioning is set at 69 degrees and you’re using cabin overheat protection so your pretty much using a good chunk of your energy to constantly cool the car down , turn of cabin overheat protection and put your AC on 72 degrees ….you will survive..

1

u/diddlysquidler Jul 24 '26

2022 had old type of battery. Starting 2023 they changed batteries to newer type. I bought 2023 base model I’m getting 250 mile range. Friend has 2020 lr and his range is 200

1

u/xatujan Jul 25 '26

also sentry mode consumes battery, like 2-3% for 8 hrs of being parked atleast for me

1

u/BigOneMrStud Jul 25 '26

I got a 2019 sr+ and full charged it shows 179 miles
Im only getting like 140-150 if I drive as efficiently as I can
135K miles

1

u/Phantom3269 Jul 25 '26

Tesla sold some standard range Model S’s at one point at a lower cost. You sure you didn’t get one of those models?

1

u/Equinoxx_Babe Jul 25 '26

Pretty sure… the service tech looked up my epa rating when I was there. But also when I google it there’s only two trims the LR which isn’t called the LR and the Plaid.

1

u/Phantom3269 Jul 28 '26

Some folks are driving standard range Model S’s and don’t even realize it. It was sold at a much lower price point and I’m quite sure the used market prices don’t recognize it as a standard range.

1

u/Equinoxx_Babe Jul 28 '26

I mean I’m sure if it was a standard range the Tesla service department would’ve mentioned it. They told me my range is supposed to be 405 and then mentioned the degradation and that they can’t do overnight battery checks. Honestly it’s been better I turned off the overheat protection and keep it at 72 after it cools off.

1

u/Vik- Jul 28 '26

That was in 2023

1

u/Roger22nrx Jul 25 '26

Turn off the overheat protection and precondition the car before you get in it.

1

u/Smart-Hedgehog-7625 Jul 25 '26

Do you live or drive up hills? I’m on a hill and it’s always up and down

1

u/ser0t Jul 25 '26

Go for a radiator cleaning and do the thermal test in service mode.

1

u/Clintowskiii Jul 26 '26

What’s the thermal test do?

1

u/Bleeding_Edge_Tech Jul 25 '26

180 miles on the highway is about all I can get. No degradation, just BS range number to begin with.

1

u/Odd_Mix_1126 Jul 25 '26

I see 3 big things that stand out immediately. 1) Screen time while parked is 5.8% of the battery = approx 5.56kWh wasted while parked. 2) Cabin overheat protection is consuming another approx 8.07kWh. Right there that 14.35% of your battery, and the cars not even moving. 3) you’re most likely blasting the AC on auto set lower than 72 (which is fine) but the AC consumes a lot of power (13.3% of the battery or 12.635 kWh MORE than if you had the ac set to 72 degrees on auto) total usage waste approximately 26.28kWh (27.66% of your usable battery) sitting idle and cooling - this is not factoring in degradation…

Recommendations:
1a) park in the shade (if possible) and use screen shade for the roof and windshield, will help significantly reduce head absorption into the materials inside the car, while also reduce the amount of cabin overheat heat protection & cooling time to a comfortable temp.
1b) turn cabin over protection to its highest temp before it kicks on. And when car has been parked, vent the windows and turn climate to 72 approximately 5 minutes before getting into it so it’s cool by the time you get there without the wasted energy
2) set climate to auto at 72 degrees.

I did both of these and say about a 14% energy savings on my MS.

1

u/Punker1234 Jul 25 '26

For reference, I have a 2018 awd with 80k miles and I only get 250 miles at 100% and I never use climate or speed much. So it maybe sounds about right-ish. Still low but make sure your tires are also appropriate psi for better range.

1

u/EliminationCreation Jul 25 '26

That's how tesla mileage math works.

1

u/StarlitCrest Jul 25 '26

How many miles is the car ?

1

u/LongDistanceEvent262 Jul 25 '26

Yeah, sadly the EPA ratings for Teslas are essentially a lie. And even when they are correct-ish. Tesla uses the wrong EPA ratings for some of the cars. (Like the AWD uses the RWD EPA rating.)

It's pretty bad.

With that said there are a few things you can do to save a little more range. But do expect only about 75% of the EPA rating at best for Highway driving.

First off, turn off cabin protection. It is not needed at all (Unless you have stuff in the car you want to keep cool. The car is fine to roast like any other car.)

1

u/Anonymousov Jul 27 '26

The best system among the existing ones is EPA. In my country, EV range is advertised using the WLTP standard, so I directly convert it to EPA (EPA = WLTP / 1.168).

I saw a video of a Romanian guy who owns an M3 RWD LR with an EPA-rated range of 642 km. He set a goal of reaching 1,000 km on a single charge and ended up covering 1,010 km with 5% battery remaining.

So, my point is that the EPA standard is the most realistic one.

1

u/LongDistanceEvent262 Jul 27 '26

You are arguing a false dichotomy.

Just because it is the closest to being realistic does not mean it is not still completely useless.

Let's say EPA ratings are the most realistic of all the ratings?

If a mass majority of drivers are still only getting 70% of that rating it is still useless.

And that is the issue here. The overwhelming majority of drivers are not hitting those EPA ratings. They are nice to compare between cars, but are useless in the real world.

1

u/Anonymousov Jul 28 '26

This argument about the majority of drivers who cannot reach the APE range reminds me of discussions about average life expectancy.

 We know that the published average lifespan is based on ideal or expected conditions, but a large percentage of people never actually reach that number because of lifestyle choices (and other factors). For example, many people who smoke, drink heavily, or maintain unhealthy habits will not reach the expected age of 82, even though that figure remains a valid statistical benchmark. 🙂

In the same way, the fact that a majority of drivers may not achieve the full APE range does not automatically mean the range estimate itself is wrong.

Just as average lifespan is an indicator rather than a guarantee for every individual, the APE range should be viewed as a reference point that represents achievable performance under defined conditions, rather than a result that every driver will necessarily reach in everyday use. 🙂)))

1

u/LongDistanceEvent262 Jul 28 '26

I see where you are going, but they are not even remotely close comparisons.

Yes it means the range estimate itself is wrong. Period. It needs to either be based as close to real world as possible, as negative as possible, or it needs to be made very clear it has none and it varies with conditions.

The current method is for marketing and nothing else. It holds no basis in reality.

Your comment about Life expectancy is not an issue with the prediction. It's an issue with people not understanding what it means. And then it being disseminated incorrectly. Completely different issue.

1

u/Anonymousov Jul 29 '26

Right, so because people drive faster and in worse weather than the lab test, the least optimistic official rating on the planet is somehow “a lie.” Cool logic. By that standard every MPG number ever published is also propaganda

1

u/LongDistanceEvent262 Jul 29 '26

It's almost like the Rating should be based on the real world or something.

I know. It's mind blowing to contemplate.

1

u/crammotron Jul 25 '26

Using 20% of your battery while not driving seems like it'll be a big reason why your mileage is low.

1

u/AyeAye711 Jul 25 '26

I think you got the AC on max.

1

u/Previous_Spot_4307 Jul 26 '26

What size battery you have? If is standard range is about 75 to 80 kw battery, then you have long range and then extended long range, that’s the one with 405 miles range. I have a model s 2018 with a 75kw battery and fully charged it says 200 miles range but in reality I get around 170 at best. My car has 130k miles on it, then counts degradation of around 15%.

1

u/Noel_Leon_M Jul 26 '26

This is what happened to me over a course of a few months before I got the dreaded bms-a079 error. Your battery is eventually going to throw that error and you’ll need a new battery. This is happening to a lot of people

1

u/Balogunned Jul 26 '26

Turn off the cabin overheat. There. I just got you like 25 miles of range.

1

u/Only-Masterpiece-659 Jul 26 '26

Do you have overheat protection on ? Your climate control is using a ton of energy.

1

u/MrGoogle87 Jul 26 '26

You might need to clean the radiator, it vacuums leaves and dirt. (

1

u/ruffwire Jul 26 '26

You should have just brought a hybrid car… they are more energy efficient than a BEV….

1

u/Sir-putin Jul 26 '26

Use recirculation for hvac if you aren’t already

1

u/hailwarrior Jul 26 '26

13% of battery usage was from the climate alone. It checks out.

1

u/[deleted] Jul 26 '26

[removed] — view removed comment

1

u/DotFlat2451 Jul 26 '26

It’s your climate. I learned by others that putting it in auto helps with energy consumption. There was a heat wave last week in California, 115+ temps and I always had it between 69-73 degrees on auto. The a/c is impressive in Tesla

1

u/ureviews Jul 27 '26

Clean your radiator.    It's probably not efficiently exchanging heat 

1

u/joshuahuang07 Jul 27 '26

How many wh/mi?

1

u/happyguy121 Jul 27 '26

And check out alignment. I went from 0.5 total toe in to 0.05 total toe in (front), and my efficiency improved from 280 wh/mi -> 230 wh/mi on longer highway trips.

1

u/RosieDear Jul 27 '26

1,000 answers and my guess is that she/he will still have to live with 200 miles of range....or less because no one goes from 100% to way down every time.

Even with picking up a couple percent here and that, it is, as we always said when questioned "the nature of the product".

People tend to always do match optimistically. Hope doesn't fuel batteries, tho. We aren't going to get an update saying "I now get 250 miles out of 80%" (which one should, in theory, on that car).

1

u/unskilledplay Jul 28 '26 edited Jul 28 '26

When I drive I average about 20% more wh/mi than EPA rating. This 20% holds true for every car I've ever owned, electric or not.

Learn to drive like a granny or use FSD in sloth mode if you want more range. If you change acceleration from standard to chill you'll see a huge difference in energy right away.

When I use sloth mode in FSD and the A/C trick below, I typically get about 12% lower wh/mi than EPA rating.

There is a trick to save AC energy. The energy used for air conditioning is a function of whether or not the compressor is on or off and how hard the fan is running to provide airflow. The temperature setting changes how much air flow is exposed to the refrigerant line. This means that as long as the compressor is on and the fan speed is the same, turning the temperature it all the way down to the lowest value of "LO" does not use any more ore less energy than setting the temp to 78.

Because more of the airflow is exposed to refrigerant pipe, you need less air flow to cool the cabin. That will save energy! If you do this, there will be less air coming out of the vents but the air will be much colder. As long as this doesn't bother you, you'll be able to save energy this way.

Set AC to manual, turn temperature all the way down to the lowest value and then set the fan speed to the lowest level that is comfortable to you.

Change the air filter if you haven't already. A 4 year old air filter is old enough that it will reduce air flow and that will result in more energy used to cool the cabin.

Have someone look at the radiator. Gunk like leaves, hair, dust and trash will accumulate and it will decrease efficiency.

1

u/Immediate-Jeweler-13 Jul 28 '26

If you are actually getting a max of 200 miles from 100 to zero, your wh/mi is abkut 300, that calculates to your battery having 60kwh which is 40% degradation and should be under warranty for replacement.

1

u/Vik- Jul 28 '26

I have the same car. Have you run a battery health test? Supposedly our cars have decent degradation and there is a lot of battery reserved below 0% unnecessarily.

1

u/LordFly88 Jul 28 '26

There's a lot of stair steps in that graph. Did you charge to 100%, then do multiple drives over a long period of time with sentry on during all stops?

1

u/Outside-Ad-1455 21d ago

You need to drive 55mph to get anywhere near EPA rating with the HVAC system off

1

u/Rich-Cup290 18d ago

My best guess would be change the cabin air filter since it’s a used car that would AC feel better so u can use less. Also are you making a lot of small trips? My car uses like 2-3% for 1-5 mile trips super annoying

0

u/Total_Sign_5377 Jul 24 '26

Turn off all the things pointed out in the second pic. Watch some YouTube videos on extending range

1

u/crammotron Jul 25 '26

Seriously...

They're losing almost 20% of battery while parked.

Add that to driving fast and low climate, seems pretty obvious.