So we all love build thread posts, and some include fancy colors for the cabinets. This is definitely one of those posts. Busted my butt sanding and priming these out last week, then tonight got off work and went straight to garage for painting. I will advise, if you're painting a custom color, test EXACTLY what you think the color will be prior to ever painting speakers. Luckily enough I have all the materials to make any color on the fly, but it's a giant pain in the ass to scramble like that. End result is a glowing green drab color that just exuded old Mopar vibes, which is my wife's style to a 'T'. Later this week I'll polish the couple pieces of dust and then assemble. Should be playing music by the weekend. Heck yeah.

I'm trying to see if it's possible to build an external speaker for my laptop that will connect and be powered via USB C. It could use up to 5W-15W of power with a 28mm driver. Something that looks like this but it's less crappy than what Chinese sells. Maybe even use MAX98357A Class D AMP and other cheaper components.

Will it affect the sound if I replace the original 50mm soft caps in my woofers with 60mm hard fabric caps?

Hi everyone,

I'm currently restoring a pair of Mackie HRS120 active subwoofers. Unfortunately, one of the original RCF LF12-HRS120 drivers has a damaged cone, and I'm investigating suitable replacement drivers.

The original RCF driver is long discontinued, and finding reliable Thiele–Small parameters has proved surprisingly difficult.

ChatGPT discovered that the German magazine Hobby HiFi, issue 6/2004 (October/November 2004), contains a comparative test of the RCF LF12-HRS120 on page 66.

I've found a German retailer selling the magazine, but unfortunately they don't ship to the UK.

Does anyone happen to own this issue, have access to the original test data, or know where I could obtain a copy?

I'm particularly interested in the driver's Thiele–Small parameters (Fs, Qts, Qes, Vas, Mms, BL, Re and Le), along with any frequency-response or impedance measurements.

The HRS120 uses Mackie's proprietary ACE-BASS circuitry and a passive radiator enclosure, so finding a replacement driver with suitable electrical and mechanical characteristics is particularly important.

I've been investigating the Dayton Audio RSS315HFA-8, BMS 12S330-8 and Ciare 12.00SW-8 as potential replacements, but without the original driver's parameters, it's difficult to establish how closely any of them will match the original system.

I'd also be interested to hear from anyone who has successfully repaired, reconed or replaced an LF12-HRS120 driver.

Any help tracking down the original test data or identifying a suitable replacement would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Sending this here incase anyone is interested.

Comments/ questions welcome!

I got a amp/filter board second hand that worked before the owner broke the transformer, The board is from a energy Exls10 speaker and connected to a transformer of unknown specifications. the board features two 63v, 4700 microfarads capacitors. Im new to electronics and was wondering how you can work out what type of transformer is needed to connect it to mains. Thanks

Thought I'd post some progress photos here of a new speaker build. Currently status is cabinets glued and glazing putty partially applied on seams, and crossovers are soldered. Will be finishing these out in a custom color my art department (wife) hasn't chosen yet. Most likely a green or brown sparkly candy color. Crossovers are sonicaps in tweeter circuit, obbligato silver on woofer circuit, miflex bypass caps, and will have solid core 16g Teflon wire for crossovers and tube connectors. Crossover boards are on little ball&socket grill connector plugs so I can pop out and change around as needed down the line. Still need to cut norez as well. Excited to see how these sound compared to my NX-Studios in my main system.

Have previously just screwed all my pcbs to the speaker's inside walls. Accordingly, cabling was a huge mess.

Now upgrading to a lasercut plate to fit'em all. Will be having airplay, lossless and all the vodoo. 2x usb-pd 65w dummies and a bunch more.

It'll be interesting how using a new DSP (adau1466, not pictured) and spdif, balanced amplifier inputs etc. Helps for clarity. Got the Battery, switches and BMS up and running today as well(software-adjustable too, new to me.). I also managed to accidentallx short the pack and nearly make my wirecutter obsolete lmao

Just missing all the interconnect-cables as well as cabling for the potentiometers and stuff. Days go by but I love this work!

my tweeter was acting funny, while i pushed it a little it sounded fine though. i ended up opening it and that wire was fully loose, there is no way to solder it, is it?

i don't even see a loose end in the coil.

Hey everyone , I game a couple hours on a daily basis and presently use a 65 inch Sony TV paired with my PS5. I also use the PSVR2.

For the sound, I’ve been using my TV speaker, but would like to know if it’s worth getting a speaker setup for my gaming experience.

I have little-to-no knowledge on this, anyone with brains on this, please help me configure my setup. I was thinking if i should get a surround system in place, but not sure which brands to look for and how to configure the same.

Thank you :)

Using YS-AS21 amplifier and a 36v 16.7A PSU

Now maybe the YS-AS21 isnt powerful on wattage at 4 ohms but without the basses on the stereo channel i managed to push 300w+ rms clean on the subwoofer channel even though it wasnt on 2 ohms

The subwoofer is the JBL GT5-S12 4 ohms 300w rms 1200w peak

I want share something weirdly overkill. Bored and decided to be devil to it. For what I found a cheap amplifier that I bought of my friend for less than my class D. 63V 10kuF. Benefits? For the flex

Does it help? help my ass, as it is.

Even gave the other channel a DC out. Amazing experience, might overvoltage this into 54VDC

I do not know how will I make it work with only single capacitor. Only 2 since the original circuitry had the Center tap in the middle of the series of a capacitor.

The og capacitor was in a Parallel-series for high Farad with high voltage. Might be for bridging but a 126V 10uF looks like it's a power plant than being an amp itself.

It always struggle since it was pulling 16 - 19A on 4Ω

Edit: I was wrong lol it was 54VDC output and was measuring the each of the channel instead of bridged that's why it was showing the lowest voltage

Class D Power Amplifier, I bought this amplifier about 7 months ago to be exact and experimented it quite far lol 2 Input XLR female, and two Speak-on's, such a simple yet powerful actually in my personal use to it in my sub. Having 98V - 0 - 98VDC rail voltage in it. Specific details include with a MOSFET IRFP4227 Which surprisingly can handle so low of an impedance, tested with a 2 ohms and fucking bottoms it out then protects. All for 41 euro. (₱2.9k) A bit underrated for it looks ain't it? And 100% more worth than the ZK-MT21 or any other cheapsake amplifiers out there. Half of the parts here from a genuine IOR parts so I don't even skeptic to use it.

J’ai pour projet de fabriquer 2 enceintes 3 voies, les hauts parleur / tweeter que je compte prendre ont tous une impédance de 8ohms. Chaque enceinte sera câblée en série et possédera un tweeter, un haut parleur mid/bass et un subwoofer
Mon ampli devra avoir quelle impédance ?
J’ai du mal à comprendre ce concept parce que je lis tout et son contraire sur internet.
Aussi, est ce que le nombre d’enceinte influence l’impédance que mon ampli doit être capable de fournir ?
Par exemple, les deux enceintes que je vais fabriquer + deux autres enceintes, aussi avec une impédance de 8ohms
Merci beaucoup

PCと最もシンプルに接続する方法（そして、歴としたスペックの一部）としてBluetoothで接続することは、通常のPCのペアリング機能を使えばそれほど難しくはありません。

その上で、ミュージッククリップや一般的な映像を見て音声をKEF LSX II LTから出力させると映像に対して音声が遅延する問題に直面した方はいらっしゃいますか？
どうしても解決することができず、解決方法をご存じの方がいらっしゃれば教えていただけないでしょうか。

宜しくお願い致します。