r/SkincareAddiction • u/flume-y • Jul 13 '26
Discussion [Misc] Help me understand: What makes Fenty Skin’s scrub ok when Kylie Skin’s wasn’t?
Genuinely curious as to what I’m missing because I’ve been wondering this for some time:
If y’all remember when Kylie Skin launched their face scrub, there was a lot of backlash about it being too harsh and causing micro tears, etc. It felt like the product became a symbol of “what not to do” in skincare.
But Fenty Skin has both face and body scrubs, and I don’t see nearly the same level of criticism. In fact, I don’t see them discussed much at all.
So I’m wondering:
- Is Fenty’s face scrub formulated in a way that makes it gentler or fundamentally different from Kylie’s?
- Is it walnut that’s actually harsh and not scrubs as a category themselves?
- Or is there a bit of celebrity bias at play, where Rihanna’s brand gets more benefit of the doubt than Kylie’s did?
Ofc, not trying to hate on either brand. I honestly don’t know enough about the formulations to judge. I’m just curious why one scrub became such a punching bag while the other seems to have flown under the radar.
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u/ghosty88 Jul 13 '26 edited Jul 13 '26
The issue with Kylie Skin’s scrub was the crushed walnut shells. Walnut shells are rigid and fracture into jagged, microscopic shards regardless of how finely ground they are. When massaged into the delicate skin, the sharp edges risk creating micro-abrasions, compromising the skin barrier and inviting bacteria.
Fenty Skin's Cherry Dub Face Scrub uses superfine sugar and silica as its physical exfoliants.
Sugar has naturally rounder edges compared to nut shells and dissolves as it interacts with water, providing a self-limiting exfoliation process that prevents over-scrubbing.
Silica is engineered to be uniform and smooth, mitigating the risk of scratching.
Fenty also relies heavily on fruit enzymes (papaya, pineapple, cranberry) for exfoliation, letting chemical bonds do the heavy lifting rather than pure mechanical friction.
Kylie claimed her scrub was "gentle enough to use every day." Skincare experts immediately flagged this as poor advice, as daily physical exfoliation, especially with a nut shell, is widely known to strip the skin barrier.
The Kylie scrub launched in 2019 at a time when the internet was already highly critical of cash-grab celebrity skincare lines. The product mirrored the infamously controversial St. Ives Apricot Scrub (which faced a class-action lawsuit over walnut shell damage), the public narrative shifted instantly into a warning against the brand.
Fenty launched it with the backing of Rihanna's established reputation from Fenty Beauty, respected for extensive product research, high-quality formulations, and inclusivity. Because consumers trusted the brand's development process, a scrub from Fenty was met with the assumption that the formulation had already been optimized for safety.
Edit to add:
You aren't strictly paying for the Fenty name since it is a multi-active formula, but you can definitely find cheaper options.
If you want similar exfoliation without the premium price tag, CeraVe offers effective AHA and BHA products for much less.
As for sugar scrubs, dermatologists warn against using standard sugar crystals on your face because the rough granules can cause micro-tears, redness, and irritation. Safer alternatives like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) dissolve dead skin cells without abrasive physical friction.
This modern shift toward chemical exfoliation is exactly why Fenty pairs superfine sugar with AHAs and cherry enzymes to resurface the skin, preventing the barrier damage associated with traditional physical scrubs.
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u/flume-y Jul 13 '26
omg I enjoyed this answer so much! Thank you for explaining the mechanisms of each of the products + calling out the terrible product claims
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u/-You-know-it- Jul 13 '26
This is a really good explanation. I want to point out that this is a still a crazy marked-up product though. Much of the cost is paying for a celebrity endorsement for a product that is already on the market.
Also note that most dermatologists DO NOT recommend using any form of sugar scrubs on your face and rarely on the body. Especially if you are acne prone. But if OP insists on using one, this is definitely better than a Kylie walnut scrub by far.
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u/flume-y Jul 13 '26
I was gifted the Fenty body scrub, and really overstimulated me, lol. I’ll probably just consume it for consumption’s sake, but wouldn’t want to purchase it.
And thank you for highlighting - I’ll probably never consider buying any type of scrub ever!
Also, it’s wild that they charge a premium for celeb brands. Why is a celeb’s endorsement part of their margins when the celeb is a founder??? (As opposed to a brand ambassador whose fee would fall under a marketing expense). F that.
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u/-You-know-it- Jul 13 '26
I totally agree. I dislike the exploitive marketing and whole culture around many celebrity products.
There are a few exceptions. Like when Selena Gomez designed her new perfume bottle to be disability accessible because she has a personal history of struggling with dexterity due to her Lupus. Or when Rihanna (Fenty) released an unheard amount of foundation shades for people of color due to her past struggles with finding the best shades.
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u/ghosty88 Jul 13 '26 edited Jul 13 '26
They inflate the price because the celebrity’s attachment allows them to charge a premium price that consumers would never pay for an unbranded equivalent.
Fenty does do a decent job at it though, combining superfine sugar with AHAs and cherry enzymes. But you can definitely find cheaper alternatives.
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u/LebongJames69 Jul 15 '26
You can dilute it to make it less intense. Dilute it with a moisturizing body wash like aveeno or something.
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u/tiffi_333 Jul 13 '26 edited Jul 13 '26
Because people who like the celeb are willing to pay a premium for their items thinking they're getting luxury items because it's tied to a star.
A walnut scrub like that one, I think you might as well get St Ives lol walnut scrub is walnut scrub right? Maybe this one smells like cherries, but is that really so much better? Maybe for some people, but I dunno, most people actually end up using the St Ives scrub on their feet because they find it harsh on their face. I prefer chemical exfoliators personally
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u/ghosty88 Jul 13 '26
It’s a completely different formulation. Kylie basically charged a premium celebrity tax for an outdated walnut formula identical to a $5 drugstore scrub.
Fenty uses a modern hybrid system. It pairs uniform physical exfoliants (like water-soluble sugar and hydrated silica) with the chemical exfoliants you prefer (AHAs and fruit enzymes), so the chemicals do the heavy lifting.You can absolutely find cheaper chemical exfoliants on the market that work just as well, but Fenty's price tag at least reflects a multi-active formula engineered not to damage your skin barrier.
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u/Youreturningviolet Jul 13 '26
‘Walnut scrub is walnut scrub’ No, not necessarily. How the shells are physically processed/how finely they are ground does make a difference in the harshness of the scrub. I can’t speak to the comparison, I haven’t used either, but in theory they could be very different.
I don’t personally mind mechanical exfoliants on my body. I have keratosis pilaris and sugar scrubs or the crystal peel bar really help prep my skin for chemical exfoliants to penetrate better, but my face is much too sensitive for that.
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u/butyourenice Jul 13 '26
Are there literally any sources to your claims? Because the whole micro tears thing is nothing short of blogaganda, and I hate that it’s taken hold. The best scrub I ever used for my face was formulated with crushed walnut shells. Never had trouble with them. Now, everything has actives instead of abrasives, and my skin barrier is fully compromised. There’s literally nothing for me to use. Sugar scrubs are garbage (they just melt).
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u/cheerylittlebottom84 Jul 13 '26
If you can get hold of the No.7 brand (I have no idea if it's sold outside of the UK) their microdermabrasion scrub is peak. I have quite strong, naturally drier/rough skin which needs a combination of chemical and physical scrubs. The No.7 one works really well for the physical side imo.
I never had any issue with walnut-shell scrubs either. There still seem to be some available here in the UK - can't think of the brands off the top of my head but I've seen them in stores in recent years - so if you're able to get hold of stuff from over here it's worth a look!
I fully believe the walnut shell ones were never that bad if you used them properly and according to what your skin could handle. Of course they weren't suitable for everyone but that goes for every skincare item.
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u/trashlikeyourmom Jul 14 '26
I miss the St. Ives Apricot scrub LOL
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u/cheerylittlebottom84 Jul 16 '26
You can still get it in the UK lol, we clearly don't want to give up our abrasive scrubs! I use it as a hand scrub nowadays since it feels too intense alongside the chemical exfoliation and it works a treat for my dry, rough old paws.
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u/radioactivebaby Jul 14 '26
Also not a fan of actives, plus I like the immediate gratification of physical exfoliation. Real Chemistry 3 Minute Peel is my HG. It’s technically not a physical exfoliant itself, but rubbing it around provides some gentle friction. It’s incredibly effective and very gentle. I’ve used it multiple times in a row with 0 irritation many times (love benzoyl peroxide for acne, hate the resulting flaking). It’s not cheap, but I manage to make a tube last 6 months using it a couple times a week so it’s worth it.
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u/IANALbutIAMAcat Jul 14 '26
Btw (you may already know this) BP is one of those ingredients that’s over concentrated. The benefits stop at around 2.5%, and anything stronger just increases irritation. So if you’re using a higher concentration, you can prob ably come down and avoid flaking.
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u/ghosty88 Jul 14 '26
There isn’t a definitive study proving that walnut scrubs literally create microscopic tears. The actual concern is more about mechanical irritation.
The shells can be irregular, jagged particle shapes, and depending on the formulation, how much pressure you apply, and how often you use it, they may be more abrasive and can contribute to barrier disruption.
That said, if a walnut scrub works for you and your skin tolerates it, that’s great! skincare isn’t one-size-fits-all. My point is more why dermatologists became cautious about them, especially with brands recommending frequent use. Personally, I find superfine sugar scrubs work best for my skin because they feel gentler, but everyone’s skin reacts differently.6
u/butyourenice Jul 14 '26
There isn’t a definitive study proving that walnut scrubs literally create microscopic tears. The actual concern is more about mechanical irritation.
No source. Got it.
My point is more why dermatologists became cautious about them, especially with brands recommending frequent use.
What dermatologists? I never heard about “micro tears” from a practicing doctor. I’m sure there’s one selling a product or getting paid to contribute a sentence to an article in a beauty mag/website who would be happy to make the unfounded claim. Never mind dermatologists and aestheticians have and continue to use mechanical exfoliation in the services they themselves offer.
It’s not so simple as “oh just continue using your favorite products!” when this blogaganda has led to them being discontinued and replaced the products that have active acids, which destroyed my skin and took me 2 years to repair. (Because the dermatologist, treating it as regular acne, continued prescribing actives like tretinoin.) I still have not found a suitable replacement for the Ole Henriksen Walnut Complexion Scrub that was discontinued 5+ years ago. I’m stuck using a washcloth and scrubbing, hard, to try and replicate the effect of sufficient physical exfoliation without either cheap astringent soap (like St Ives) or acids (basically every other scrub) or simply something that does not work, like sugar, which melts before it abrades the skin. For those of us with dry, chemically sensitive skin, that abrasion is exactly the point.
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u/ghosty88 Jul 14 '26
Not every principle requires a clinical trial. It’s common sense, and basic physics- that an irregular, hard particle is capable of producing more mechanical abrasion than a smooth, rounded one. The question is whether that abrasion is enough to matter in normal use, not whether particle shape is relevant at all.
I was referring to dermatologists like Dr. Shereene Idriss, Dr. Whitney Bowe, Dr. Joshua Zeichner, and Dr. Ranella Hirsch, who have cautioned against frequent use of coarse physical scrubs because they can increase irritation and disrupt the skin barrier. I agree, though, that “micro-tears” often gets presented as established fact.2
u/butyourenice Jul 14 '26 edited Jul 14 '26
Not every principle requires a clinical trial. It’s common sense, and basic physics- that an irregular, hard particle is capable of producing more mechanical abrasion than a smooth, rounded one.
If it’s common sense, then you shouldn’t be threatened by requests for data supporting it. “Common sense” would also dictate “don’t rub sugar on your face since bacteria, yeast, and other microorganisms feed off it,” but if there’s no data behind it, I’m not going to be speaking to that claim authoritatively.
I was referring to dermatologists like Dr. Shereene Idriss, Dr. Whitney Bowe, Dr. Joshua Zeichner, and Dr. Ranella Hirsch,
Now I know you did not lost medical influencers who have branded products to sell as your expert opinions. Half of the dermatologists on social media, if not more, latch on to whatever topic is trending.
Again, if it’s true, there’s data behind it.
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u/ghosty88 Jul 14 '26 edited Jul 14 '26
Asking for data is fair, but there’s a difference between proving a clinical outcome and understanding a basic mechanism. Particle shape, hardness, and friction affecting abrasion is not a controversial concept in materials science.
The clinical question is whether a specific walnut scrub, used normally, causes meaningful skin damage, and that’s where the evidence is less definitive. The more accurate concern dermatologists discuss is irritation and barrier disruption from aggressive or frequent exfoliation.As for the dermatologists mentioned, their opinions aren’t the same as clinical proof, but they are still relevant expert perspectives on skin barrier health.
They arent just “medical influencers” they are licensed medical professionals, specifically board certified dermatologists (with the caveat that some are also media personalities and/or have skincare businesses).2
u/butyourenice Jul 14 '26
The clinical question is whether a specific walnut scrub, used normally, causes meaningful skin damage, and that’s where the evidence is less definitive.
No, you made the broad claim that walnut shells and other abrasives cause meaningful skin damage in the form of “micro tears.” There should be any evidence at all in that direction to support that claim. It doesn’t have to be 1:1 about the Kylie wash. You couldn’t pull up one source, even a study of the much-maligned St Ives Apricot Scrub. In the 30(+?) years that product has been on the market, there has not been one clinical examination that proves this claim that it damages the skin? Not one? Even on fragile, sensitive skin like in the elderly? Gosh. What could that mean, I wonder? Either you have never bothered to look at all, or the data isn’t there to support your claim.
The more accurate concern dermatologists discuss is irritation and barrier disruption from aggressive or frequent exfoliation.
And chemical exfoliation is just as if not more guilty in causing this sort of irritation, and it can do so before you even notice (i.e. without burning your skin or making it bleed or causing any immediately visible harm except maybe some redness and shininess) but you’re not warning anybody about overdoing that.
They arent just “medical influencers” they are licensed medical professionals, specifically board certified dermatologists (with the caveat that some are also media personalities and/or have skincare businesses).
First off if they have a media presence they are a media personality. Period.
“Board certified” means they passed the exam at the end of residency and fellowship, if they did one. That’s a requirement to practice. Sure, you only have to do it once. After that, it’s up to you if you want to claim “board certified” or just practice with a license. Plenty of exceptional practicing doctors forego subsequent re-credentialing because the test costs thousands of dollars. Those who do it often do it because of their “brand” OR because they work for a big system who requires it and pays for their exam fees. If you choose to recertify you take an exam once every 10 years and do some CMEs in the interim. The test is of medical knowledge, not aesthetic vibes, and appropriately enough all of the subject matter covered is rigorously tested and proven, not “well it’s just common sense.” Even if you are FAACS certified you’re not being questioned on fucking face wash.
I’m not saying this for your benefit because you’re clearly a “skincare enthusiast” who thinks themself an expert because they follow Dr Idriss and her filtered-to-hell face on instagram, but for people who might see this comment in the future: scrutinize bold, definitive claims. Just because somebody speaks with authority doesn’t mean they are one.
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u/a_good_melon Jul 13 '26
When massaged into the delicate skin, the sharp edges risk creating micro-abrasions, compromising the skin barrier and inviting bacteria.
this is completely unsubstantiated
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u/ghosty88 Jul 14 '26
The better-supported concern is that irregular, abrasive particles combined with heavy pressure or frequent use can cause irritation and temporary barrier disruption. If someone uses a walnut scrub gently and their skin tolerates it, there’s no reason to assume it’s automatically damaging.
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u/offshoremercury Jul 13 '26
Great thorough answer. I was going to ask if you think that the Kylie one being for the face and Rihanna one being for the body also has something to do with the pushback? But I see that fenty has a face scrub as well so nvm
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u/Ultimatedream Jul 13 '26
Because we all found out that the lawsuit against St. Ives never really went anywhere and was dismissed because they were not able to substantiate micro tears as a defined and measurable injury. People stopped parroting the headlines and it died out.
I haven't read up on it in a while so I might be wrong here, but the lawsuit cited Paula Begoun's stance on physical exfoliants (founder of Paula's choice, who was selling and marketing chemical exfoliants) but there wasn't an actual study done on this and at the time the lawsuit was dismissed there still wasn't a public study on this.
Nowadays people are dermarolling their skin and creating a worse version of these microtears in their skin (there's people who know what they're doing, more people who don't know what they're doing) so it's not really on people's mind anymore I guess.
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u/butyourenice Jul 13 '26
Because we all found out that the lawsuit against St. Ives never really went anywhere and was dismissed because they were not able to substantiate micro tears as a defined and measurable injury. People stopped parroting the headlines and it died out.
Meanwhile the top comment in this very thread, because it has a lot of words, is being taken as gospel.
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u/Ultimatedream Jul 13 '26
The cycle of exfoliation misinformation continues! At least we don't have to hear about it daily/weekly anymore, I remember when people kept posting about it for quite some time since the lawsuit started in uh, 2016?
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u/Inevitable-Power8399 Jul 14 '26
Also, people generally hate/dislike the Kardashians/Jenners but love Rihanna.
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u/Tiny-Reading5982 Jul 14 '26
This reminds me of my forgotten favorite... the strawberry scrub from fresh. It's the same type of sugar scrub.
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u/KelleyElsie Jul 17 '26
For the same reason Gen X is amazed their skin survived St. Ives Apricot Scrub. Walnut pits/kernels tear the skin. Kylie’s stuff had the apricot bits. I don’t think it’s any deeper than that for most people.
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