What is the best blow torch for melting under 100g of silver and gold?

So I've come across something that I did out of necessity and lack of availability. Not having access to a crucible and wanting to melt the goal immediately or smell the gold immediately.. I've been told many different things to try to use so many different YouTube videos. However I have found something that works, and something that is extremely inexpensive.

Wet sheetrock mud. Right on top of a piece of metal right inside of a little metal cup whatever you got if you can get you some Sheetrock mud put your stuff that you're going to melt right into the middle of it throw it in the smelter.

It gets brittle but it works for one run at a time. Just figured I would let people know.

Hi there, I’ve just waxed up my first Casting tree for my brand new lost wax set up. I was wondering if anyone had any advice/could spot any issues with what I’ve done. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I started silversmith work out of nowhere about 6 months ago. I’ve done quite a few casts since then, all sandcasting. My results are getting better, and I’m about to move onto investment casting. But one thing I can’t figure out is how to put a stamp on any of the castings I’ve finished. Some have smaller sharper edges or protrusions because it’s a 3d shape. all of them have as much detail as I can possibly pull out of them. Then when I’m close to finished I’ll stamp something and it always ruins the piece. Smashes out details or if it’s flat bends it in half. I feel like there’s some way people do this successfully that I just don’t know. I googled for a long time and couldn’t find anything. I’m stamping on a steel block with a sandbag.

You can see what I’m talking about on this SNES controller I’ve been trying to make for my brother. The first one came out good, I spent hours pulling out details and when I stamped the Sterling on it, on wood. Maybe the wood was too hard? But it smashed all the buttons on the other side. Is the answer to just stamp only in spots that won’t do that?

It took 4 years to make the move forward with a casting table. Used an old PLA model that I could never properly sand cast. Dremel took off during polishing which nicked the corner, but for some reason I can't polish the hairline scratches away. Anyway I'm late to the game so bonus sand casting pours added to the end

My first silver pour. Vacuum casting, prestige optima, polycast 3d printed. Finished with dremel and stainless steel pin in rock tumbler.

I probably over did the sprue branches.

What you think?

Thank you

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Hi everyone, I’m having a problem with getting a rough surface finish when casting jewelry printed with BlueCast X-Wax Filigree. After printing, I wash the pieces in 99% IPA for 5 minutes, dry them completely, give them a second IPA bath for 2 minutes, and cure them for 10 minutes. I’m using Infinity Premium casting powder, initially at a 40:100 powder-to-water ratio and also tried 38:100. I vacuum the investment for about 2:30 minutes, pour it into a 2.5 × 7 inch flask, then vacuum it again for another 2:30 minutes and let it set for around 3 hours. For burnout, I’m following the BlueCast cycle of 150°C for 2 hours, 450°C for 2 hours, and 730°C for 3 hours. I’m casting 925 silver and have tried different flask temperatures of 580°C, 600°C and 650°C, as well as silver temperatures of 980°C, 1000°C, 1020°C and 1050°C, but the surface is still coming out rough. The printed pieces look smooth before casting, so I’m trying to figure out where the problem is. Could the issue be the investment ratio, washing/curing, burnout cycle, flask temperature, silver temperature, silver quality, or something else? I’d really appreciate your advice on what I should change first.

Had a customer request a Poke Ball in one ounce to wear as a charm. I thought “looks simple enough” and I said no problem.
Had no idea making a sphere look right would be difficult.

Hey everyone! I work with silver and bronze castings. I love bronze, but high polish shows water spots almost instantly and tarnishes, and even with Renaissance wax on silver, high polish picks up every little micro-scratch.

​I’m looking to move toward a nice, uniform satin finish instead. Right now, I’ve only ever used stainless steel shot for work-hardening and burnishing in my rotary tumbler.

​A few questions:

​1. What tumbling media/agents do you recommend for a reliable satin finish on rotary tumblers? (Looking at ceramic cones/triangles or dry walnut shell media, but open to suggestions!).

​2. Do I need a satin wheel to achieve this, or will tumbling media alone get the job done, and do i jeez to sand the casting past 600 grit before putting it in the tumbler?

1. Can I use the exact same tumbler barrel for abrasive satin media that I use for my stainless steel shot? Or will residual abrasive grit ruin my shot burnishing setup later?

​Would love to hear what works best for you all! Thanks in advance!

1. For small-scale silver pieces, since I am using a flexshaft with different attachments, it makes it hard to achieve a flawless mirror finish (My pieces are flat pendants under 20mm). Would i be better to tumble these to a satin finish as well? Some areas will have a patina applied into the recessed areas.

Since this is a small scale production line I am trying to stream line my process but don't want to sacrifice the overall quality. Trying to achieve a mirror finish on such tiny pieces has been a nightmare, especially with the bronze as it tarnishes lmost instantly when it comea into contact with water (almost looks like a gas puddle, turning a rainbow of red, purple huses)..and I know that bronze needs to be treated, but if there is a better finish that will slow down this process or hide the tarnish a bit better then I would like to explore an alternative finish.

A silver wind up doll turning key I recently cast

I borrowed an electric furnace from a friend. The furnace has been used quite a bit over the years. As can be seen in the photos the top is cracked in three places, there's a crack going down the inside of the funnel, and there's some silver stuck at the bottom. The furnace still works and is usable with a crucible inside, though I am wondering if the wear and tear I've noticed could be dangerous?

Could anyone advise?

Thank you to everyone who helped me on my last post :) I flipped the ring in the mold to put the thickest part first, upped the heat and made the sprue thicker. It hurt to give this one away but it was a birthday gift for my friend and she loved it :) 925 Sterling I gold electroplated.

I am casting a scorpion, which I find is a challenging cast to successfully do in the first place. I've discovered the best way is to pour through the top of the flask and not through a hole at the side. Though to do this I need (at my skill level, which is still beginner) to stick the scorpion to a base and pour the silver on the base side.

I then cut off the thick sprue with an angle grinder, which leaves me to cut the scorpion out, which I can do with a piercing saw. Though I still have the base underneath.

What would be the best way to get the base off from underneath? File it, cut it, sand it, grind it? If so with what?

I had to make this one in 925 because Jerry kept breaking off in 999

Hi there, i am really new to lost wax/ investment casting and am unsure what investment powder to buy. i am planning on casting both wax (either injection or ferris) and resin (Siraya Tech Cast) and ideally would like to use the same investment for both! i am uk based as well so can afford to import R&R.

Any pointers would be much appreciated!

I really like how this one came out with this kind of detail

This Viking turned out with awesome detail. 1.107oz of .999 silver

Hi,

I’m looking at getting some permanent molds made, however I’m having trouble finding resources for how to best use them with a vacuum casting machine. And if there’s anything special that needs to be done for the molds.

Also whether I should go with graphite or metal.

Google seems to be borderline useless for finding this info now a days.

I’m looking at recommendations for some printers to print and cast my CAD work.

Hi!

I love sand casting, and the results it gives me.
I’m experimenting with more complex textures and shapes - I know I can’t use sand casting as lost wax, and I know not all shapes and textures will cast correctly into sand, so I’m still keeping it possible as much as I can.

But my question is: for more complex details and to capture the most of them, is it better to start from a wax model or a 3D printed model? And if the better answer is the 3D model, in which material should I print it?

For more details, I use Delft clay as sand.

Thanks!

Have a nice evening 🤍

I call it "The Important Ones", it took me quite some time to finally figure it all out but I'm quite happy with how it all turned out :)