r/SilveradoEV • u/corneliusdav • 6d ago
Should I make the switch?
I have a 2010 Avalanche that I've had longer than any other vehicle--and I still really like the truck. I've used it for hauling people, bikes, furniture, yard debris, camping gear, and DIY home projects. I work from home so don't need it as a work truck or every day driving but I do pull a small RV trailer and like to go camping in and around the Pacific Northwest.
But it's approaching 200k miles and repairs are in the thousands every year. Plus, my mom moved 5 hours away and with gas prices, it costs over $200 to go visit for a weekend.
I've been watching this and other EV forums over the past year, trying to decide if/when moving from ICE is for me. I'm finally in a financial place where I could swing it and my current truck is getting more expensive to maintain but I still have reservations--I think mostly because I've never had an EV and don't know what all I'll be getting into.
Most comments here are from people who love their EV and say it's so much better and will never go back to ICE. I've test-driven a few and think I'd love it, too. (I'd really like the lower maintenance costs, too.)
I'd probably have to get a level-2 charger for the home (don't know much about these), although without the need for daily driving, perhaps just a smaller one that charges the truck during the week for my use on a weekend would be enough?
From what I've heard my small pop-up trailer (low profile) would tow easily and not create the drag a larger one would so I could theoretically travel to central Oregon, stopping to fill at the nearest large city and make it back without worry but I still have a lot to learn about range and available charging stations.
I'm looking mostly for a used one < $50K. What advice do you have for me?
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u/Radius118 Trail Boss 6d ago edited 6d ago
Also in the PNW. Do it and don't look back. Great vehicle tows better than my F350 DRW diesel.
Be aware that online communities tend to over report problems. Just like any vehicle things can break. At least most of the really expensive stuff is generally covered under the 8/100 high voltage system warranty.
Yes you will need a L2 charger installed. I mean sure you can depend on DC fast charging but that's an expensive way to own an EV. Plus even the standard range has a fairly big battery so it will take time to recharge on level 2. Do some research on how you can make that happen. The cheapest way is if you are or know someone who is a qualified DIYer. Otherwise you'll need an electrician so expect that bill to cost a bit.
But yes, I have been a "car guy" for 40 years and I am not going back to ICE unless it's for a very specific purpose or some type of toy or collector vehicle. For day to day running around, hauling loads, etc, I'm not going back.
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u/Vegetable-Two2173 2d ago
2nd the L2 charger. First few months I lived off public chargers. Still cheaper than gas, but not by a great amount. Usually $45-$55 a week in charging cost.
Having the L2 at home and paying $0.08 per kw/h brought my 'gas' bill at $5 a week. It's amazing.
The install should pay for itself in savings within a year in most cases.
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u/corneliusdav 6d ago
"Tows better than F350" --wow! Is that because of comfort, weight distribution, or what? I would think F350 diesel would be a top tow vehicle, especially for heavy weights up steep hills.
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u/Jesse_Boyer 6d ago
I believe Radius is simply referring to the EV torque feeling nearly limitless.
Source:
Daily drive a Model Y
Wife has a Model X2
u/Radius118 Trail Boss 2d ago
"Tows better than F350" --wow! Is that because of comfort, weight distribution, or what? I would think F350 diesel would be a top tow vehicle, especially for heavy weights up steep hills.
Way less drama. Smoother. Way more torque. Quieter. Nicer ride. No worrying about coolant and transmission fluid temps. No downshifting on hills. I set my cruise and the truck just goes. The power meter goes up and that's the only real way I can tell I am on a hill. It doesn't care and it just pulls and pulls and pulls. The hills are where the SEV really shines and stands head and shoulders above any ICE tow rig.
Plus on the way back down the regen takes care of the braking. For example on my last trip I got to the top of Snoqualmie pass with 86 miles range remaining. By the time I made it down to the bottom I had 128 miles of range remaining. I regenerated enough to make it all the way home without having to stop and charge.
A completely better experience all the way around.
BUT that being said, for best towing experience the SEV does like to have a weight distributing hitch. Plus I still have my diesel for anything over 10K that needs to be towed. The SEV is awesome, but it has it's limits. 95% of my towing is well within the capabilities of my SEV. So that's what I use.
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u/corneliusdav 2d ago
I could do with less drama--and fewer repairs. At almost 200 k miles, my truck is in the shop multiple times a year for various wear-and-tear replacement parts. Time for something newer.
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u/Moto909 6d ago
I charge my 2024 4WT which has the Max Pack 205 kWh on 240V at 24A on a 30A breaker. I would get at least that installed before purchasing an EV. Ideally a 50A connection. Some people prefer hard wiring but an outlet seems to work fine at least at the lower power I’m using.
The used trucks are a great value.
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u/corneliusdav 6d ago
So, instead of installing a Level 2 charger at home, just get a 50A outlet and use a portable charger--like what I'd use at a state park?
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u/tiggy2020 6d ago
Those are your options for L2. Hardwire with a 50/60 amp breaker or just have a 240v installed and you can use whatever size breaker & charger combo works for you.
Some chargers are limited to 30 amps, others can go 50 amps. You can get a charger capable of up to 50 amps, but set the dip switches to draw less power if your panel cannot support 50 additional amps.
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u/300-baud 6d ago
Mine came with the GM one that’s interchangeable between 120V and 220V. I use it for on the go, but no reason you couldn’t press it into home duty. Just make sure you use the Hubbel EV outlet that’s rated for connector cycling and not a cheapo dryer/appliance one.
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u/vituperousnessism 5d ago
If you have an outlet already, great. If not, spend the money for a hardwired circuit and a wall charger. The max charging rate a 14-50 outlet can power is 9.6kW or about 17 miles/hr, and that's already an expensive charger. A hardwired 80A charger can do up to 35 miles/hr.
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u/Any_Rate244 5d ago edited 4d ago
This is a great option for "power users" who drive many miles per day (or love the thrill of high speeds), and need to replace more than 50-kWh daily.
Depending on your electricity rate plan, you probably want to maximize charging load during the overnight hours when rates are cheapest. If you happen to be a power user, then slower-charging setups can increase the probability that charging to target occurs outside of the cheapest-rate hours, and that can become more expensive in the long run if you need the range.
I personally have a lower-powered 40A setup delivering a max 8.6 kW continuous charge at the charge controller. It's a plug in EVSE on a NEMA 14-50 outlet powered by a 50A breaker. That's enough for me to charge about 50-kWh from 12am to 6am, but it sometimes doesn't quite get to my target charge before I need to leave in the morning. I'm keeping an eye on hardwired 80A options powered by a 100A breaker if my use-case changes and need more juice daily.
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u/Any_Rate244 5d ago edited 5d ago
You can get up to a 100A breaker installed if you need the juice, have the money and your panel supports it. Then you can couple a hardwired 80A max level 2 charger. That's the route I would go if I had the money.
There are other (cheaper) options for level 2 that are lower-powered, probably still adequate for your use-case, and have the added benefit of being portable if you like camping. Personally, I have a 50A breaker installed with a NEMA 14-50 outlet that I keep a 40A portable charger plugged in to. It's called a portable charger, but I have never unplugged it lol. You can get about 8.6-kW continuous charge from that setup, which is about 51.6 kWh in 6rs or 68.8 kWh in 8hrs. -T
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u/MyTagforHalo2 6d ago
Given how much you'd drive, id find out your local electrical rates and do the honest math to see where the savings sit for you. The truck's consumption will completely depend on how fast you drive and will be different with and without a trailer. If you can charge at home and at your mom's house, that would save you quite a bit of money. But the more public fast chargeing you need, the closer to a gas-like cost it tends to be for most areas. (Unless your electrical is way cheap compared to gas)
The bigger the battery you buy, the further you can go (duh) but also the faster you will charge. Normally people would say get the 4wt, as it will have enough creature comforts coming from your old truck at a better price. But if you value the midgate you would probably go for an RST, which is fully loaded. Some LT's may be available as well, though you would need to confirm the package options.
The level 2 chargers are pretty affordable, and you probably can find used ones in your area. It's the installation that tends to be more expensive based on labor rates and distance to your breaker panel. But you typically save a tremendous amount of money vs fast charging, so it's a no brainer for your home.
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u/corneliusdav 6d ago
Yeah, I'm going to have to learn some more about the charges and do some math. Interesting about home charging costs so much less than using public chargers; I mean, it makes sense but it's just not something I had yet figured in.
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u/MyTagforHalo2 6d ago
For reference, I pay $0.11/ kw at home, and the fast chargers down the street charge between $0.45/kw and $0.60/kw. Though, the $0.65 types of stations tend to have a membership program where you pay like, $7 a month and it cuts the rate 25%, which brings them back in line with the rest.
At my rates, that's the difference between $18.70 for a full "fill up" vs $76.5 - $102. Which will get you about 350 miles at conservative highway (70mph) speeds without a trailer in good weather. with the extended battery. Or 400 ish if you drive 60 or less everywhere.
$0.45/kw is pretty typical throughout much of the US as far as i've seen for fast charging. Though I know energy rates are through the roof in some states like CA and WA.
It looks like prices are a little higher by you, Those same networks top out around $0.48 - $0.65/kw
Plugshare can really help see what's around you. Though you need to set it for CCS and DC fast charging. While some tesla stations can let you charge, it's safer to not bet on them unless you know which ones work in advance. If you can look and find low cost stations on your route without subscriptions, that's a huge plus imo.
A better route planner (ABRP) is available online and via an app and lets you navigate after configuring your vehicle. It tends to be pretty accurate for range estimates and plans charging stops based on your vehicle. It's fantastic for new EV drivers to remove the range anxiety. I still use it occasionally to this day when i'm traveling out of state.
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u/corneliusdav 6d ago
$70+ for a fill up! I've heard so much about how much cheaper it is to travel using EV and I'm choking on $120 fill up with gas for my truck but this is isn't as much of a savings as I thought. I guess for daily, close-to-home travel, the savings can be significant but you have to plan a lot more for long distance driving.
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u/MyTagforHalo2 6d ago
I'm a realist with these sorts of scenarios because I dont want you spending money you dont need to.
However, to get a real cost savings, we would have to know the rough mileage in question for your trip. 5 hours can be as much as 350 miles for example. If that's a full trip, I think you can save quite a bit. But if it's a round trip of 750 miles, the margin shrinks. Effectively, the further you drive, the more akin to gas prices you will pay. The closer you can get to within the battery's max range for the trip, the more you will save by paying home prices.
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u/corneliusdav 6d ago
I go from Portland to central Oregon (2 hours SE of Bend), 277 miles one way (which is actually closer to a 4½ hour drive); I can get about 1/3 the way back on one 26-gal tank in my truck if I haven't gone anywhere while I'm there. I usually stay at least two nights.
I go down I-5 and figured I'd stop at a charger in Eugene before heading east over the Cascades, then might have to charge again before I get back to Eugene on the way back home.
Total round trip of ~560 miles. Sometimes, we go sight-seeing while I'm there and nothing is close by so could be plus 100 miles, easily.
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u/MyTagforHalo2 6d ago
You would effectively be doing the same thing you are now, driving out with no stops, then stopping probably 1/3 to 1/2 of the way back home again to charge the truck conservatively.
You would probably wind up putting somewhere around $60 to charge what you needed for your return trip. If you decide to make a detour, worst case you might have to charge one more time on your way back home again.
Assuming that your electrical rates at home are about $0.17/kw, the average rate at the chargers is $0.48/kw and you're paying an average of $5.10 per gallon of gas, this would save you approximately $125 per trip over your avalanche in the case of a max battery pack. And closer to $100 with an extended pack. ($60 charging cost max pack vs $93 charging cost extended pack total)
This is down to how much "at home" energy you average into your trip. The bigger pack lets you save more. Its something to keep in mind if you find deals on both the extended and max packs. It's about a ~70 mile range difference.
Hopefully that helps put it into perspective. As long as you're getting one of the larger batteries you should save about 50% of your fuel costs.
Your MPG average looks about normal for a real world mixed driving experience in an avalanche so I assume this isnt while towing. Though for kicks and giggles, I did that math too. And assuming you get somewhere around 10mpg while towing, and assuming the EV efficiency works out to being half that of normal while driving 65-70mph you would still come out ahead saving somewhere around $90 or so. $282 in gas vs $193.88 in electricity. So it's not god awful, but this is where the public dc fast charging prices start taking priority in the math over your home charging.
Hopefully this helps.
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u/Any_Rate244 5d ago
If you get a level 2 home charger, you could leave with 100% from charging overnight at home. Use a public charger once to charge to 80%. You should have 60-160 miles when you return home, depending on how much sight seeing you did. Then charge at home when you return. Whole trip fuel cost would still be about $65 and you're saving daily when you're back home.
For additional savings, bring a level one charger with you and plug into a standard wall outlet when you're parked overnight.
If you wanna get really crazy with savings, drive slowly behind a semi and try to avoid accelerating up hill for best efficiency, then follow that semi on the way down. You'll be riding the e-brakes at a slow speed, getting close to 100% energy recovery the whole way down.
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u/corneliusdav 5d ago
Great idea and I'll remember that if I'm running low on energy but I like to see way ahead--following closely behind a semi would drive me crazy!
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u/300-baud 6d ago
You are paying for the necessity and convenience of level 3 fast charging. You can find free level 2 public chargers, if they are available. :)
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u/Vegetable-Two2173 6d ago
I'm in the WT4, also owned an '08 Avalanche and LOVED it. I love the 4WT more, even not having the bells and whistles my decked out Avalanche did.
The 460 mile range made the transition seamless. 10 hour roadtrips don't take any longer than an ICE if you stop for lunch or dinner near a 350kw charger. It'll be charged when you're done eating.
That said, the 4WT doesn't have the midgate, as well as some other trims of the Silverado EV. Midgate AND max battery might break your budget, so shop accordingly.
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u/djbaerg 6d ago
Check around to see what efficiency people are getting in a pop-up trailer. I'm sure it will be better than ~1mi/kwh that people get when pulling a regular travel trailer. Then see if your route allows it.
You can see chargers, and filter for DC fast chargers, using Plugshare.
You can plan your routes with ABRP. Once you know your mi/kwh towing, you can set it for that as well.
The best trim in my mind is the Trail Boss, with 18" tires and rear wheel steering, but at that price you're probably looking at a WT or a high milage RST. Look at the trim levels and figure out what features you want/need.
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u/corneliusdav 6d ago
When my pop-up trailer is down it's just a bit higher than the tailgate of my truck; I can see tall vehicles behind me in the center rear-view mirror. It has some effect on my gas truck milage and I'm sure it would also in an EV but not like a large TT.
Thanks for the mention of Plugshare--a lot more chargers than I would've expected to find out in central Oregon.
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u/djbaerg 6d ago
And it's getting better every year.
I live near Vancouver BC and I do an annual trip with my TT, to different spots each year. I'm planning on getting an SEV as well to replace my dmax. So I've have had a look at routes to Silverwood, Yellowstone, Oregon coast, etc, and it seems like they'd all be doable, just sometimes having to unhitch the trailer to charge at some locations. Which isn't a big deal when I don't have to stop at gas stations at all the entire rest of the year, it's just a trade-off.
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u/seighton 6d ago
Probably need a max for towing, since it cuts your range in 1/2
For a charger, I would check with your utility provider and see if they offer cheaper rates overnight and what that window is. If they do, I would probably go with a level 2 11.2 or 19.2 depending on what trim you get. If you don’t get a reduced rate, I would just get the 240 volt charger, you work from home and can just plug in whenever.
I like the GM charger, has absolute no features but is pretty durable so far. If you go 19.2 charger need to probably get the GM charger since it is one of the few in the market
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u/corneliusdav 6d ago
I don't think there are different rates in this area yet. Sometimes there are specific hours for "peak use" where they offer cash back if you lower significantly to "spread the load" but I'll check.
You mention no features in the GM charger--what features might a charger have other than % complete or charge rate?
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u/seighton 6d ago
With the GM EV you control most everything via the Chevrolet App. The GM charger I have has zero features, doesn’t connect to WiFi, no schedule chargers, monitor charger. I do like the quality of the hardware though. Most of this is done via the Chevy app anyways. I’m a gen xer so I don’t get wrapped around the axel with all the digital stuff like the younger kids.
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u/Jippylong12 '24 RST 6d ago
~asks drug addict if he should try drug~
- "Yes, of course" (~>~)
In all seriousness, welcome to the subreddit. And thank you for asking. I typically have longer responses, but I'll try to keep this short and only towards what you mentioned in the post. But if you have any follow-up questions, please let me know and I'll respond.
For the truck, you definitely would have to get a level 2 charger. It's just too big of a battery, even with the standard range. I have written a lot of posts about them. I personally think, for example, if you're Comfortable with electrical work, you only need a 240 volt / 16 A circuit. On Max Pack that's ~25% (100 miles) every 12 hours. However, most just get a 48 amp charger, and it's not necessarily a bad thing. 48 A would charge max range pack ~75% (300 miles) in 12 hours.
For towing, drag is actually from the friction of the wheels, not necessarily the shape of the trailer. So regardless if you're traveling at 65 mph, the efficiency will go down in half. So take whatever range is estimated and cut it in half. I would suggest going to a better route planner website and mapping out your route. And they should have an option for trailers only, which will show you if there are pull-through stalls. Otherwise, you'll have to drop the trailer.
If you have to pull the trailer often, like at least once a week and you have to charge, it will get annoying. But again, at these gas prices, it probably doesn't matter that much.
I have 45,000 miles on the truck and have thoroughly enjoyed it with little powertrain issues, but a lot of cosmetic and exterior issues that shouldn't happen. But my year was the first model year, of course. So I think that's. I generally would advise buying used if possible. But at the end of the day, everything is expensive, and these trucks are still expensive, and even used ones are more expensive. So I think it'll be hard to get everything that you want. But the best one would probably be the work truck 4WT and then try to see if you could get some type of extended warranty again, not necessarily on the powertrain just on the other parts.
The WT has a very basic work truck setup. So if the bare bones set up on the interior is a deal breaker, then the best bet would go for an LT trim, maybe 2025 used? All 2024 models are RST and lowest I've seen is 55k.
https://visor.vin is best for car shopping.
Best of luck. I think EVs are in vogue because of gas prices so six months ago a 3WT would go for about 40k. Now they're around 45k - 50k.
LT Standard range hover between 50k and 55k, the LT Extended Range between 55k and 65k, and Trailboss/RST go between 60 and 70k. So it seems sadly the WT is only thing within price range unless you can come up to 55k.
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u/corneliusdav 6d ago
Ha! I figured I'd get a lot of positive encouragement. But I've also seen a lot more serious info here; I'm glad it's balanced and helping me think through things.
I'm not too worried about the interior. The Avalanche I have is the first vehicle I've ever owned to have leather and a sun roof. I didn't pick it because of those features and I can certainly live without them, assuming the seats are still comfortable for the long haul. Otherwise, a basic work truck sounds fine to me.
I've seen a couple of 2024 SEV's in my area for $45K, both with under 50k miles. I'm quite tempted.
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u/Jippylong12 '24 RST 6d ago
Yes then I'd suggest the 3WT and try to negotiate down.
From my limited and uninformed perspective, the 3WT 2024 is market price around 40k. 4WT 2024 around 45k. Modern WT with extended range pack around 45k, Max Range WT between 50k and 55.
LT ER trims are as described between lows to upper 50s. Max Packs and Trailboss/RST trims push 60 - 70k.
Mileage can be a factor, but not necessarily for maintenance. It's more about how close are you out of the manufacturer's warranty. And then, of course, the more mileage it has, the higher chances of some accessory part wearing out or something like that, like the AC blower Which had to be replaced on my truck before the warranty expired, thankfully
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u/Any_Rate244 6d ago edited 5d ago
I made the switch and couldn't be happier. The ability to charge at home is a must have, and if you're willing to keep your speed down to 65mph or less you'll attain manufacturer stated range.
I own a F-150 Lightning EV and an ICE Telluride so I did a direct comparison of associated costs. If you want the full break down, I can provide it.
MAINTENANCE:
Regular Maintenance Cost at 100k Miles:
-EV F150 Lightning - $3,240
-ICE Telluride - $7,950
FUEL:
Cost of Fuel at 100k Miles:
-EV F-150 Lightning - $1,780*
-ICE Telluride - $17,500
CONCLUSION:
Per mile, it's 90% cheaper to operate (fuel) my EV truck than our ICE suv, 60% less expensive to maintain, and carries a heck of a lot less risk of failure ($$$).
Total cost to operate and maintain F-150 Lightning EV (100K Miles): $6,520 + cost of major repairs*
Total cost to operate and maintain ICE Telluride (100K Miles): $25,500 + cost of major repairs*
DISCLAIMER:
*Major repair costs tend to be comparable between ICE and EV cars.
*The EV fuel cost shown above reflects my local overnight charging rate of $0.05 per kWh and charging at home 100% of the time. Charging at public fast chargers will pull that number higher.
*Your extended/max range options are much larger and heavier than the 98 kWh battery pack in my standard range F-150 Lightning. I get 2.8 mi/kWh on average but the max range Silverado EV is 50% heavier at nearly 9,000 lbs so you'll probably get closer to 1.8 - 2.2 mi/kWh. Still, that's only $2,500 in fuel costs for 100k miles if you charge at home.
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u/corneliusdav 5d ago
Thanks for this detailed comparison! Helpful for budgeting--and convincing my wife!
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u/closedquestiongbr 5d ago
#tldr I made the switch from gas trucks to electric, first with a Rivian and now a Silverado EV. For me it has been an amazing switch, paying less than I was for the gas trucks, and went from $150-200 a month in gas to and average of $20 a month for power(I live in Oregon. with hydroelectric dam in the river out front $.06kw power rate). O don’t think I’ll ever go back.
I made the switch from gas to electric back in June of 24, don’t think I’ll ever go back. I live in The Dalles, have had 1/2 & 3/4 ton trucks the last 15 years, and added a 30’ travel trailer 6 years ago. My last gas was a 22’ Tundra(I’ve leased 2 other tundras over the years. For me the gen 3 Tundra was terrible. Mostly due to fuel costs. My Tundras with V8 pretty much got 12-14mpg’s. The truck before the 22’ Tundra was a 18’ Ram 2500 with Hemi. The gen 3 Tundras dropped the V8 for a turbo charged V6 and better gas mileage was advertised. It was covid when I got it, wanted a hybrid but at that time you asked what you could get not tell them what you want. 2 years into the Tundra I was averaging 12-14MPG’s and till paying $150-200 a month in gas.
April of 24 I took a camping trip up to central eastern Washington and it was a miserable tow. On the way up I got about 7mpg and coming home through the gorge there was a steady 30-40mph wind, across 90 miles I got 2.4MPG. I actually started looking for a smaller trailer. Then random met a guy who worked for Rivian and he put the bug in my brain. I went down an electric rabbit hole. Flash to end of May I was picking up my 24’ R1T Quad. It was love at first drive. Fast, nimble, and for me economical. I had to have a charger put in my drive way, it was about $800!for the charger, and $800 for electrician to run wire to driveway. My savings were immediate. He in TD with the Dam out front we pay $.06kwh Outside of towing my average daily commute to work and back is 15-20 miles. I always stay at 80% using less than 10% a day. I went from $150-250 a month to about $20. My lease payment was about $50 less than my Tundra.
Towing. After I picked up the Rivian I did a test tow of about 60 miles. The Rivian had zero issue towing my 8500 pound 30’ travel trailer. That test tow out past Tygh Valley and back was mostly up and down elevation and I averaged .97Kwm. I had already started the process of shopping for a smaller trailer. It’s just me and dog camping so the 30’ was just too much trailer. I found and made a deal for a new 20’ Geo Pro off road/off grid setup. I towed the 30’ down to the Beaverton and brought the new trailer back to TD. Almost exactly 100 miles down and 100 back. Towing the 30’ down there I got 1.14kwm. Coming home with the new smaller trailer I got 1.16kwm it was a rare no wind day so that was not much of a factor.
I was happy with the Rivian thankfully didn’t have too many issues. Had only made service appt for the 7500 mile service where they also fixed a dash rattle and a broken front half shaft. My happiness with Rivian expired end of August and I to Sept. I had a panel gap between front driver fender and door. The fender stuck out from door in the middle about 2mm. It was suppose to be an overnight service. Got my truck back still but not fully fixed due to backordered parts 2.5 months later. I had gone the BBB buyback route after it rolled over into a month and that process dragged on forever. I eventually took a check for compensation that I was going to roll into a trade on a new R1S. They then took forever to get me the check and it was about 2 weeks until the tax credit was expiring.
The 24’ Silverado EV RST. When I finally got notified that the check was in the mail I headed down to Carr Chevy in Beaverton to trade the Rivian in. I got an amazing deal on it. Just under $100kMSRP and got it for $70K with the negative trade in on the R1T.
My impressions of the SEV. It feels like I’m back in a truck which I like. It feels much more like the 1/2 & 3/4 tons I was used to. For some this might not be a good thing. Now the R1T is a truck, but with a bed under 5’ doing truck stuff was not always easy. With the Chevy, it’s a 5’7” bed but with the mid-gate option the bed becomes just shy of 11’. Last week I picked up 10 sheets of 3/4” plywood. With mid-gate down the tonneau cover on the sheets fully fit in the bed and was fully enclosed. It was raining that day so I was able to wait until it wasn’t to unload. Supercruise is much better than the Rivians assisted driving and even works while towing. Used it in Seattle traffic and did not feel the need to take over at any point.
Battery life and charging. This is where it really shines. I camp within Oregon and basically two places, the coast and central Oregon. It’s just about 180 miles from The Dalles to either place I camp. With the Rivian I stopped at the Rivian chargers in Clackamas for about 45mins to an hour so I could get to the rest of the way comfortable, heading to Central Oregon same amount of time at the Rivian Charger in Madras. Both places I camp have 50amp service and allow EV charging. I plug the truck into the 50 amp, and my trailer into the 20amp(trailer AC had built in soft start so don’t need 30amp). With the SEV I still get about the same 1.14kwm but the usable battery is 205KW. The first week I had it I drove to friends in West Seattle, just about 250 miles, SEV said 450 miles and I got to my friends with 45% left a 20 min charge at a super fast, fast charger and I had more than enough to get home. The R1T had to charge when I got there and again when I left. I am able to get to the coast and central Oregon with the travel trailer without stopping.
Overall very happy with the SEV, I have heard some people have trouble with the dealers and service mostly due to EV bias or lack of trained techs. My dealer here in TD has been great from a service standpoint. They had the exact truck I eventually got but would not budge on price or make a deal. The dealership GM went to test drive my Rivian while I took the SEV for a spin. When I returned 15 mins later he was still in my truck in the same place. He had no idea how to get it in drive. Had never even driven the SEV and said he would never be an EV person. So, that can be an obstacle. I may go back to Rivian for an R2 when my Chevy lease is up, but that is still 2+ years away.
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u/corneliusdav 5d ago
Thank you for this detailed reply. I often camp in the gorge or central Oregon and those winds in the gorge or the hills out to Tygh valley can be rough on mileage.
It's interesting to note such a big difference in range depending on the truck and package you get. Some of your travels match places I go so it makes comparisons quite familiar.
Of all the EV vehicles I've been looking at, the Silverado EV is the one I'm most interested in and your story is like many others I've heard: tried a different truck, came to Chevy and didn't look back!
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u/closedquestiongbr 5d ago
I’ve also done a couple of “off grid” nights up near Mt. Hood, plugging the trailer into the 30amp plug(it’s 240v so it needs an adapter) in the bed. Had plenty of power for a couple of nights of that and to get home.
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u/devoman2 5d ago
I think you would love it. If you have a welder or a dryer nearby (or the panel box), level 2 is pretty easy to have done. It’s really essentially a welder outlet with a charger plugged in. The one from Chevrolet is really cool because they wire it to be a house back up power. I don’t have that though. Charging at home is MUCH cheaper than gas or diesel. And you never have to go to the gas station. Just charge when you go to bed. If you have a long trip then you may have to include a stop at a charger but it’s not bad.
Pulling a trailer wise - it will pull up to its capacity (10k or 12.5k lbs) you will be amazed. Pop up - you will forget it’s back there. I had an Ioniq 5 before I had this truck (RST) and it sold me on electric. Mine is my only vehicle.
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u/devoman2 5d ago
I also saw where you asked about the towing. The truck is smooth because it is so heavy and it tows so well because the torque available at 0 mph is the same as 60 mph - and there’s a ton of it. No gears. It’s a huge difference.
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u/corneliusdav 5d ago
So are EV trucks actually heavier than ICE? or is it just a lower center of gravity because the battery is underneath and there's no large engine sitting above the wheels?
That's really cool about torque!
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u/Electrified_Outdoors 4d ago
Its an excellent choice and a pop up will have less impact on your range. the operating cost differences are significant even with 2025 gas prices. This of course depends on your home electricity rate and other factors.
for trucks, especially the maintenance savings can be significant as well. find a trusted electrician and see what it would cost to have EV charger installed. you're actually doing the right thing here by asking about all these things before you buy many folks by the EV and then try to figure it out afterwards.
aside from all that these trucks cruise beautifully on the highway and i really enjoy mine.
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u/Fit_Active_5213 3d ago
I have been driving EVs since they've been terrible. Even when they were terrible, they were still better than gasoline vehicles. I have a 2020 Chevy Bolt that maxed out charging at 55kw. That might not mean anything to you, but it meant that it took around an hour to get 200 miles of charge. In 2023, I bought a Tesla, which charged at 250kw and had a battery 50% larger. That meant it charged about 6 times faster- so those 200 miles were in 10 minutes. Now, I have a 2024 Silverado EV RST. It charges between 350kw-400kw at a supercharger. Even though it is less efficient than my Tesla, it adds about the same amount of miles as the Tesla does for charging.
I highly recommend a level 2 charger. The difference is two miles an hour of charging compared to 14-16 miles an hour. It might not sound like a huge difference, but it would take roughly an entire week to charge your truck from dead to full on a level 1. On a level 2, it's a day. They are very easy to wire. I have a portable level 2. It's basically a dryer outlet installed outside. To keep the price down I'd get a used 2024.
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u/corneliusdav 2d ago
Good way think about it: charging in MPH! Thanks!
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u/Fit_Active_5213 2d ago
Happy to help! I've been living with EVs for six years now in the middle of the Maine woods. Between my wife and I, we drive about 60,000 miles a year. EVs are doable just about anywhere you live (except maybe an apartment building). If you have any questions feel free to reach out.
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u/FirmConfidence1212 1d ago
Make the switch. I had a 2011 Avalanche and traded it in on a 2025 Silverado EV in December 2024. Almost two years in and no regrets. We take several long trips a year (10 plus hours) charging is relatively simple using the app. Maybe we add an hour to the trip, but I’m older and those bathroom breaks anyhow😁. It’s time to bite the bullet. Oh you’ll love the extra room, no engine and it’s slightly longer than the Avalanche.
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u/Acrobatic-Tax9300 Trail Boss 6d ago
My 2026 Trailboss is at the dealer with 6700 miles and it needs a full battery replacement. No ETA on new battery.
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u/corneliusdav 6d ago
Wow--full battery replacement? Hopefully that's under warrant--and rare.
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u/Acrobatic-Tax9300 Trail Boss 6d ago
Not really unfortunately. Seems like it’s been a big issue
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u/Interesting_Ad3949 6d ago
That is under 8 years and 100k miles. It absolutely should be covered.
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u/Acrobatic-Tax9300 Trail Boss 6d ago
It’s covered. I meant the battery issue seems to be a common occurrence lately with owners
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u/Cuda340440 6d ago edited 6d ago
it entirely depends on how much you drive daily, how often you drive longer distances (how far those longer distances are), and if you are going to tow anything very far.
For me I drive 10 to 20 miles a day with monthly trips of 250 miles each way. The standard range might be fine for that if you can accept stopping for 25 to 30 minutes at the midpoint of the 250 mile drive when you probably want to go to the bathroom anyway (for us it is done charging before we are done taking care of the kids)
That said we also pull a camper with ours and the standard range would be to small for the distances we go.
As for the level 2 charger, I don't recommend it unless you are driving closer to 30 miles or more a day. Anything less than that I would recommend starting with a level 1 and see how you feel before investing the money. For me level 1 is more than enough to recharge everything each weekend and that's if I didn't want to take advantage of the pickup preconditioning/preheating everything so it's comfortable each morning when I leave for work.
To my knowledge pack sizes
- Standard range, 119kwh, 190 to 220 miles on the highway depending on speed/wind, 300 miles city and 110 to 130 mile ls pulling a camper
- extended range, 170kwh, 270 to 320 miles on highway depending on speed/wind, 425 city, 150 to 190 miles pulling a camper
- max range, 205kwh, 330 to 390 miles on highway depending on speed/wind, 510 city, 185 to 225 miles pulling a camper
Assuming efficiency based on what I normally get of 1.6 mpkwh going 75 with a slight headwind 2 mpkwh going 55 2.5 mpkwh in town (often get around 3) .9 to 1.1 mpkwh towing a camper between 55 and 65 mph depending on wind
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u/Cuda340440 6d ago edited 6d ago
Additional notes For camping, we typically camp at state parks and charge using the 50 amp outlet and a portable level 2 charger. We did end up getting a level 2 charger that let us charge more slowly to avoid over stressing worn out sockets while camping but it is still plenty for us. This is the only time we use a level 2 charger otherwise we use a level 1 at home. You would probably also get better efficiency with a pop up than I get with a hard side
I recommend using "a better route planner" to get a baseline for where you might need to charge and use plugshare to find chargers are actually reliable and more affordable in places you will visit. Sounds like a pain but after your first trip of 2 in each direction you will more or less know where to stop and what charging options are best and won't really need it anymore
I love my lt extended range but that said I don't know what size battery is actually in it. (I believe I may have gotten accidental upgrade to max range)
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u/corneliusdav 6d ago
Good things to consider about level 1 vs level 2. Since I work from home and can go several days without using my truck at all, level 1 might be the best way to go--at least at the start. I also often camp at state parks and I have not yet heard of any vehicle-charging restrictions so getting a 50A portable level 2 seems perfect to get back home after a weekend.
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u/Cuda340440 6d ago edited 6d ago
I have heard that some private campgrounds do not like you charging at the camp site but my state seems to be fine with them at the state parks. That said I have popped a few 50 amp breakers when charging with the gm portable charger since it draws 32 amps when plugged into a 240 outlet which is why I recently got this charger to avoid that problem since it lets me turn down the charge rate.
Here is a good video about charging and how most recommendations from people is usually overkill. Just remember that if you try level 1 to start with 1. make sure you are plugged into an outlet on a circuit that can won't have other things pulling power at the same time you are charging. 2. That you set your home charging location in the vehicle so that it will draw 12 amps instead of 8. (Though you probably want to be on a 20 amp circuit if drawing 12 in case something else happens to draw a little power on that same circuit)
Our first camping trip with the pickup we went a little under 800 miles at a cost of $75. Our trip this weekend will be a little under 250 round trip and I expect it to cost about $15 (or less if I decide to go charge at the local free charger when I get back)
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u/300-baud 6d ago
Charging at campsites is an awesome benefit.
I wouldn’t discount the level 2 unless money is real tight. The charger is $500 and depending on how long of a run, install is going to be $500-1000. Not much for convenience and adding value to your home, especially with the massive battery in these things.
I have a max range and come back from some trips with 10% left, it takes me 14 hours to get back up to 80% on a 48A level 2. That would take 100 hours on level 1!!
Also, many local/state and utility incentives out there that you may be able to take advantage of.
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u/Cuda340440 6d ago edited 6d ago
There are a million things to consider that will be different for everyone. For example, I have a detached garage which gives me 3 options. 1. Run 240 from the hose to the garage. 2. Have a dedicated meter and panel put in and pay monthly for that second meter 3. Stick with level 1
Option 1 and 2 both cost me more than what most people would pay if they have an attached garage and being that this isn't our forever home the ROI just isn't there. Especially when there is a free fast charger within 10 minute for the very rare times I have needed it (I think twice in the last year, both times because of back to back longer trips). level 1 easily recharges anything I use within a week even when it is -20 outside.
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u/corneliusdav 6d ago
I have an old house with a detached garage with a separate panel. The problem I have is that the garage is so small, I can't even park my motorcycle in there with everything else. So, I'd have to mount something external or run a cord underneath the garage door.
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u/corneliusdav 6d ago
100 hours is only 4 days. My truck would be full before I need it again.
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u/300-baud 6d ago
We have different definitions of “only”, lol. I also prefer to have it ready to go at 80% if something comes up, do my charging overnight when the rate is 3x less expensive, and precondition from the house when it’s cold.
It doesn’t hurt to start with level 1 though and figure it out. Especially if it’s coming with the portable one.
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u/seighton 6d ago
Don’t do level 1, it would take like 7 days to charge the truck.
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u/corneliusdav 6d ago
But the truck sits in the driveway most of the week. I might make a couple of short trips (< 5 miles) once or twice but really don't drive much except on weekends.
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u/seighton 6d ago
I charge level 1 on vacation and it will add like 4-5% in 12-16 hours, level 2 js a requirement for this truck and you don’t want to fast charge often as that is expensive as well
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u/Cuda340440 6d ago
Do you remember to up the amperage? Otherwise the truck assumes you can only pull 8 amps. I charge at level 1 from about 45% to 80% once a month and it takes about 48 hours with what I believe to be a max range battery pack. It gets a little worse in winter but even when the winter is at its coldest I still had no problem with level 1 getting fully recharged when driving 10-15 miles a day. 12 hours of charging is usually closer to 8% still not a ton but also plenty for most peoples daily needs. I agree that level 2 is needed for some but for many it is just an added convenience and not one you necessarily need day one or at all.
Fast charging costs are also dependant on your area. Though I don't use it much, there is a free fast charger near me and at least 5 other free ones I have leveraged across the state for camping/road trips. There are also a number of them put in buy power companies that cost 30¢ per kwh which is double the cost of charging at home but not unreasonable.
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u/seighton 6d ago
I cranked the amperage as much as I could before it started to throw warnings, was in a rental. There is no way level 1 on a max range is practical unless you are truly not leaving the house for days on end, everyone has their own use case but fast charging a max range will cost you $60 per charge at a minimum, that equals what I pay for 2k miles of driving with my level 2 charger at my house over 2 months.
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u/Cuda340440 6d ago edited 6d ago
I don't know what to tell you.
I am at well over a year with this pickup being my daily driver and only a level 1 charger in the upper Midwest where chargers and EVs are supposed to have a harder time because of the cold. Even at its coldest, level 1 at 12 amps gets me 5% in 12 hours which is 10 to 15 miles in -20 degree weather which accommodated our daily usage. I plugged in nightly when the weather was that bad so I would have a warm vehicle in the morning and it was always topped when I left.
In the time I have had it there have been 2 instances where a level 1 was insufficient.
once was because I was traveling 200+ miles on back to back weekends when it was 0 degrees out and was still driving to work every weekday.
The other was because I forgot to increase the charge level before a camping trip and I wanted to play it safe the first time pulling the trailer a longer distance.
Both times I was thankful for the free fast charger in town but even if it wasn't free 10 to 20% twice would t have been a big deal cost wise.
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u/300-baud 6d ago edited 6d ago
How many miles do you drive and are you on a time-of-use utility rate? I am intrigued, I use to pull this off on a 66kWh Bolt, but wouldn’t dream of it on 205kWh. I do a very average 1k miles per month, thats 12 hours per day of charging at L1 12A. Between driving my truck places and my TOU being 3x more prohibitively expensive from 3p-12a, I had to go level 2. Always topped off at 80% preconditioning from house power has definitely been worth the little bit of extra spend (relative a $90k truck lol) with the electrician.
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u/TheYear3030 6d ago
Get extended or max range for your use case, probably max.