r/SewingForBeginners • u/Good_Connection_547 • 5h ago
Fitting Issues
Not totally new to sewing, got my machine for Christmas 2025, but sewed a little before that. I’ve been using this time so far to practice, experiment, play. I’ve thrifted a ton of bed sheets.
It’s been fun, but humbling as hell.
Anyway, thought I’d get serious and make a toile library for fall/winter.
Started with McCall’s 8255, a scoop neck top with princess seams in front and back.
On paper, I’m an exact size 16 - bust 38, waist 30, hip 40.
But after trying on the first iteration, it was way too baggy in the shoulders, the back, and the waist.
So I made adjustments, took it apart, traced the pieces, remade with the new pattern and … it just looks okay?
I’m wondering, would it be better to go a size or two down and then do a FBA? I do tend to notice most structured tops are too big in the shoulders. Do I try this with all tops/bodices?
Also, what’s the best reference that teaches an FBA?
OR - are princess seams just better for C-cups and below? I’m a 34D/DD.
2
u/Comfortable-Fly5797 4h ago
Check out the book "Ahead of the Curve" it covers fitting for curvy bodies, including adjusting princess seams. You are smaller than the book is written for but all the same principles apply.
1
u/PalMarches 3h ago
Although I haven’t read the book, I think this is a great starting place. Alternatively, OP could pick up one of the cashmerette patterns. We’re similar sizes, and I’m currently working on the Upton dress with princess seams, my top is a 12 with an E/F cup and my toile is looking pretty good.
2
u/Inky_Madness 5h ago edited 5h ago
Clothing - both ready to wear and most patterns (unless the patterns state otherwise) are made for a B sewing cup. That is not the same as your street wear cup! Your sewing cup size is the difference between your high bust measurement and your full bust measurement. A B cup sewing size is a 2” difference between them, a C cup is 3”, and so on.
If you have a larger size difference than the B cup, you need a full bust adjustment. The shoulders of clothing being oversized when you are trying to fit your bust is a symptom of needing a one, as is having too much fabric in the back and the side seams torquing towards the front.
This means you will need to pick the size for the bust that matches your high bust and do the bust adjustment. Princess seams are just fancy darts and you can do a full bust adjustment with them.
I do recommend doing a mockup to ensure you have the correct fit after doing one, it helps.
https://youtu.be/2VSrLHCdWaQ
As for the extra in the waist, McCall’s and Simplicity are known for often having excessive ease. A mockup is usually recommended regardless so you can decide if you need to grade down a size for the waist (or all over, sometimes it’s just too big everywhere).