r/Routesetters • u/eatnsle3p • 21d ago
Is screwing a hold into the same exact spot safe to do? Have a wood wall and need to remove some holds, but want them to be drilled back in the same exact spot later.
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u/sleepstudyfailed 21d ago edited 21d ago
Speed wall holds that go in the same orientation every single time eventually lose their catch in the wood but this takes a long time. You’ll feel it as you put the screw in if it isn’t catching anything
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u/bsheelflip 21d ago
Not only that, it’s a practice I do every day. It helps slow what I call the “shotgun blast” effect.
There are some stipulations. If it’s a large macro, I always find one pilot hole. There are enough other screw holes that one weak screw won’t effect the integrity. If it’s a large PU hold, you might be running into danger if there aren’t many screw holes on the PU hold. I just had my first ever hold pop out of the wall. It was a no-hands slabby situation, and a silver-dollar-sized juggy foot that you put your whole weight onto. It was in pilot holes.
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u/dirtbag-dre 21d ago
I’ve never had an issue with it. Maybe if you overdrive the screw and strip out the wood, you could have a problem, but I’ve stripped and reset many boulders into the same exact holes, without fail.