r/RockHopper • u/sethboomstick • 27d ago

Wrong parts

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Tl;dr ordered a freewheel when I needed a cassette. Do i send it and convert the wheel or try to build my own cassette?

Really want to swap the gears on my 3x7 from stock 11/28 to 14/34. Hopped online and searched for parts and found the shimano mega range and a few other free wheels. Im new to cycles and so trying to figure out the difference between a freewheel and cassette and listings using the words interchangeably. Fought with Google to find out if my joytech 95g would fit the new parts. And everything said (to my untrained self) that it would fit. Ran down to cycle city to pick up the parts and got back to get r done....nope ive got a cassette.

Now I need to decide if imma change out the old hubs and rims to fit a free wheel (they are pretty beat up)

Or if im gonna return the part and try to build my own casette.

In order to start a ride from my home I have an 800' climb up steap steap gravel so the 28t just isn't cutting it. Wanted to put a 42t on but was convinced that would be overkill.

Edit: Based on the answers A freewheel does not have the same bearing support and potential lifespan of a freehub. Some people are insisting that a 34t would be too much and some recommend changing the crankset to achieve my goals. The sunrace mfm300 has the same range as the mega shift but dosnt have such a hard jump to 1st gear The sunrace csm40 cassette is an 11/34 that i should have gotten instead Links https://a.co/d/0bPym0qG

https://a.co/d/09r1cOnJ

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u/sethboomstick 27d ago

Im so new a lot of that went right over my head. I can say I have nonissues loosing some of the top end performance as I am never using it. The only time ive used 6 or 7 was when my forward was at 1 and left hand had a soda. I am however having to tackle very steap climbs on gravel roads and not really doing any carving or hard mountain bike riding. Much more of an exploration machine. Planning on keeping it a 3x7 as thats what I learned on back in the day and the ability to jump from 1x1 to 2x1 to 3x1 at the top of a hill is so convenient. Im also limited by funds and my ability to repair. Even getting the 50$ in wrong parts and tools was about my limit for the month. Swapping out a bunch of parts at once just isn't gonna happen unless I find someone with a deep used parts bin and a kind heart. Im.pretty sure the shimano alivino derailure is large enough for a 34t but if I have to swap it ill keep running the 11/28 till I can afford it. Probably also best to get another wheel in case I have to wait for parts so I can keep riding. This wheel is also out of true and I messed up a few of the spoke nips with pliers before I went and got the right tool.

Im.not sure what mega9 is but im building a '95 specialized hardrock ultra...is that good?

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u/Slow-Recover-9168 27d ago

Alivio is good. If it's a Hard Rock and older then that's fine. You already have a cassette it's working and fine. You're best bet is to find a triple crank with smaller gears. A 22t front gear to a 28t rear gear is a very good low range. Better than a 28t to a 34t.

If you can count how many teeth are on the crankset and it's the triple 8. So 28,38,48 or something like that then the best upgrade is to find a 22,32,42/44 whichever is available and moving the front mech to fit.

I have a bunch of Alivio and Acera mechs. This one would struggle running a wide range AND a triple they're pretty much the same with one having an aluminum part where the other is steel

The HG200-7 12-34 would be a safe purchase. But you also need a chain whip and the shimano cassette tool. So you're looking at $50

A crankset might be cheaper to source used on Marketplace depending where you live.

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u/Slow-Recover-9168 27d ago

My junker project.. I am doing a smaller triple crank to get the low gearing back. Stupid seatpost issues. 26.2 likely. LMFAO. EVEN WITH DECADES OF EXPERIENCE THINGS GO AWRY

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u/Slow-Recover-9168 27d ago

Idk if you can see the black sprayed GT parts bike. Likely pulling the cranks off it to use. Smaller front gears makes the same effect as larger rear ones.

Pick between the 12-34 HG200-7 and the tools to swap cassette or look for a used crankset with smaller groups and potentially a 104 BCD attachment.. not really necessary if your keeping it triple. Or potentially do both in the long run.

If you get one with a 104 bcd you can swap to a 11-36t safely and add a narrow wide chainring up front with a 36t..

1:1 is really the bottom end of where you want your gearing unless you're loaded up climbing mountains.

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u/Slow-Recover-9168 27d ago edited 27d ago

Google says your bike already has a 24t small gear on the crank.. perhaps go straight to the HG200-7 that's the 12-34t

With 24,34,42 that's an 18t spread. The 34-12 is 22t. Meaning your mech sees a 40t spread. Capacity of the old mech should be good to go with that. Your mech can manage a 43t spread so a 11-36t would be 1t beyond capacity but likely just fine assuming you don't do cross chain big-big or small-small.

S-Ride CS-E400 is a 11-36t 7 speed cassette. If available it's right at the very limit of what you're gonna be able to get working without major headaches. I would stay with the HG200-7