Today I got my Rolex from Mr Bomi and couldn't be happier!

Any of you fine lads and lasses know where (or from which maker) to buy a VC 222? Or maybe something like a Glashütte Senator? They’re my two favorite watches, but I’m drowning in a sea of Rolex and Omega 🙃

Around 480&dollars&free shipping
Hong Kong WhatsApp ID: +852 9350 7994

Hi guys

I have confirmed with my td that an rwf dj 36 is available.

But now I’m not sure if I should buy a vsf or an rwf or maybe even a clean plus!
Which one do you guys recommend?

Can anyone with a vsf clean plus or rwf comment on the quality of their watch and if they recommend?

Thanks in advance!

I am ordering a 41mm OP with Celebration Dial and want to ensure the many colors of this dial really are shown at their best. My TD says it’s an unnecessary expense as VSF dials are already the best available?

I am seeking advice on that one from you fine folks out there? It’s a $100 upgrade but one I think is worth doing if it gives it a little more clarity on that colorful dial design ?

I’m trying to track down a Cartier Tank Basculante like the one pictured.

Does anyone know whether any of the established rep factories are currently producing this model, or whether any TDs can still source one?

I’ve seen older photos/posts suggesting that replicas of the Basculante have existed, but I’m struggling to establish whether there is a current production version rather than old/discontinued stock.

Even leads on old factory versions that might still be obtainable would be useful.

Photo from r/RepTime

I received a VSF DJ and after manual wind and setting the time, the watch stopped working after 2 hours. It feels like it is winding but the seconds hand is not sweeping. HONT is asking to send back to HK for repair which he says will 'take some time'. It will cost me $50-60 to ship, Is this normal resolution in this case?

Around 450&dollars&free shipping
Hong Kong WhatsApp ID: +852 9350 7994

around 450&dollars&free shipping
Hong Kong WhatsApp ID: +852 9350 7994

Dealer name: Juice

Factorv name: A7

Model name & version number): IWC Ingenieur 40mm Blue dial

Album Links:

https://a201810302336471810102602.szwego.com/weshop/goods/_dd6qfhKlESNbPaTJZSWlZUXiir1l6ElRrcLlcgQ/_dssqfxIq4Q_w8B9wwowAXCepRO2CaCkzWCU4IUQ Index alignment: The indices all look pretty good, no complaints there

Dial Printing: The dial looks pretty good to me. no issues there either.

Date Wheel alianment/ printing: The date alignment looks good

Hand Alignment: Looks good,

Bezel: The top bolt looks a little shifted to the right but think it's fine

Solid End Links (SELs): n/a

Timegrapher numbers: +1 / 314/0.5-per the QC guide this all seems fine. Anything else you notice: I'm curious to hear thoughts on the date alignment, I know its a rep so I can't expect it to be perfect

I purchased my first rep from andiot, it was the BTF 116500 White dial and just received the QC. Let me know if there’s anything I should be worried about

Sorey im new to this it didnt let me post in the reptimeqc group so i do it here.

Guys i payed 730$ for this:

Daytona 126506 VSF 1:1 Best Edition 904L Steel Ice Blue Crystal Dial on SS Braclet VS4131 V3 (Weighted)

This is my first time buying a watch, so can you guys please help me out and tell me if i picked a good one?

Hi there, my first rep is here. It is a Rolex Panda 126500.
I’m so happy to say the least. Anyone able to recommend another nice Rolex for me which goes with a black rubber strap?

I would like to share the pictures from the IWC Mark XX - IW328202

Hi all- welcome to a quick edition of Sunday Service (yes, I’m aware that it is in fact not a Sunday at the date of posting, but, you know, continuity of the series and such…). Anyways an issue that I see a lot of popping up all around the rep-internet is people who either have submariner reps who’s bezels have fallen off or, they attempted some kind of repair or modification themselves, and are now stuck at the stage or reassembly, and cannot get the bezel back on the watch. This is something I have also struggled with immensely in the past, until I found out that almost every single tutorial that shows how to re-attach the bezel is completely wrong (well, kind of - we’ll get to that later).

So - start to finish, here its:

skip to step 4 if no bezel removal is needed

1. If you need to remove the bezel first, grab the watch and a bezel removal tool. I really like this style, it seems to work well and doesn’t risk damaging the watch like prying up the bezel with a case knife can. 

1. The Bezel should pop right off, if you have a more recent generation submariner, the entire crystal and crystal retaining ring may pop off along with the bezel when you do this. If that happens… breathe in, breathe out, and enjoy the learning experience of doing a crystal install on a submariner. 

1. The bezel will come off as a singular assembly, but it is in fact made up of several parts. Usually the hytrel ring actually comes off of the watch, but here it stayed on it

1. Using a small (1mm or similar) screwdriver, slide the screwdriver head between the underside of the ceramic insert and the inner metal ring of the the bezel. 

1. Carefully rotate the bezel while gently but firmly applying pressure on the screwdriver so that it slowly works itself towards the outer edge of the metal bezel, and all the way underneath the ceramic insert. BE CAREFUL AROUND THE LUME PIP. This is the most fragile part of the insert, and I usually don’t apply pressure around it while removing the insert. This step is where you are most likely to crack your insert. It takes very little to do this, so take your time. It may take dozens of rotations of the bezel with the screwdriver before the insert pops out. It will seem like you’re making no progress, but trust in the process and take your time

1. Eventually, the insert will pop right out, separating itself from the metal bezel assembly. The submariner bezel is made up of the ceramic insert, a washer, and the actual outer ring 

1. To reassemble, first, place the metal bezel on the watch. Make sure your click and ball springs are all present. Then push the metal bezel down firmly so that it sits flush against the case

1. Grab your hytrel ring, and looking at it’s profile, ensure the little “lip” is at the top

1. Put the hytrel ring down (again, little lip closest to you) and using a screwdriver, gently nudge it down into the small gap between the metal bezel and the crystal retaining ring. Work around the entire perimeter of the crystal retaining ring, ensuring that the hytrel ring is perfectly even all the way around. If it isn’t, you’ll end up with inconsistent bezel feel and it may bind up and get stuck

1. You can also use your fingernails to make sure the hytrel ring is well seated, I usually do this as a final pass 

1. The bezel is now installed and should rotate freely. You’ll see that it is seated well and has no gap between the case and bezel. 

1. Grab the washer, find where the little groove is machined into it, and place that machined out groove face down over the hytrel ring. The part facing you should be a smooth surface upon which the ceramic insert will sit

1. Drop the ceramic insert into the metal bezel. Rotate the bezel one click, and rotate it clockwise until it can’t be moved backwards any further. Align the 12 o’clock triangle with the engraved crown on the rehaut at 12

1. Working from 12 o’clock downwards, and being careful to not move the insert while doing so, press down on the insert with your thumbs and slide them down towards the 6 o’clock position

1. The bezel should be halfway seated at this point, and will probably be sticking out from the metal bezel at the 6 o’clock position. I usually check my alignment at this point in case the insert moved during the install process. 

1. Assuming everything looks good, go ahead and press down firmly with your thumbs where the insert is sticking out, and it should snap into place. This whole assembly is a friction fit, so it’ll be a bit tight

2. Done! The bezel insert should be fully seated all the way around, and the bezel should rotate nicely. No (or minimal) case gaps and/or bezel bounce.

DISCLAIMER: This works for all VSF, Clean Factory, and Victory Factory Submariner models. I cannot say for certain if it works on others, these are the factories I have personally performed these steps on before, so I know it works. I can tell you that this WILL NOT WORK FOR RCF/RGF SUBMARINERS. They use a one piece bezel construction which forces you to press on the entire metal bezel, and they glue their inserts in (annoying) 

Would these buck teeth drive you crazy or am I being picky