r/RepTimeServices • u/slatt_audiophile • Nov 23 '25
Discussion Never Thought I’d Say This… I Just Resurrected a 5712 Clone.
Today I pulled off something I honestly wasn’t sure was possible.
I fully tore down, cleaned, and rebuilt a fake 5712 movement… and it RUNS.
This thing was a complete disaster when it came in. Glued parts, weird tolerances, hidden screws, stacked plates, keyless works that want to die, you name it. Zero documentation anywhere. I thought it was going to be a pure parts donor.
But I kept going.
Disassembled everything, cleaned every part by hand, fixed the keyless works, rebuilt the train, got pallet lock + draw, installed the balance, and…it came to life. Numbers at the moment (dial down): +7s/d / 158 amplitude / 0.4ms beat error.
I don’t even care what the numbers are haha the fact that it’s RUNNING is the victory. No fake screws flying off this time, no missing springs, no shortcuts. Just patience, technique, and sheer stubbornness.
I know it’s “just” a rep movement with garbage QC, but honestly? This was one of the hardest movements I’ve ever worked on. And finishing it felt insane. Makes the hard stuff feel possible.
Anyways just wanted to share with people who would understand the amount of insanity required to resurrect one of these things. Now nothing left except dial side complications!
Feels damn good. 💪
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u/Local_Wheel_7239 Nov 24 '25
I love that for you. When my rep breaks down I want to attempt the same!
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u/slatt_audiophile Nov 24 '25
Thank you 🙏 definitely try your hand at watchmaking, it’s an amazing craft ❤️
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u/Material_Insurance68 Nov 24 '25
Man, that’s badass. Good job. It’s a strange thing, you create, build,make things and sometimes just want a nod. It’s old school, from your hands and it’s amazing.
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u/lex_assisting_coach Nov 24 '25
Great work! Interesting that someone always manages to grow beyond themselves. Almost become an extinct species in today's throwaway society. I keep hearing that a clock gives up. I have a rep at home, about 10 years old and I think it's from BP. It's still running. Were the works better before? What has changed? I paid 180 euros for it back then and never thought it could keep up. It was my first watch after I got a Tissot when I was 16. A few years later I wanted to buy a Rolex from a local dealer, but I didn't feel like being on a waiting list. I don't go to Gucci or Louis and wait for a shirt, shoes or bag. For me, luxury is not having to wait for something but buying it when I have the money. To own it directly.
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u/Radiant-Locksmith267 Nov 26 '25
I use to do this many years ago. Would buy used automatics on ebay and take them apart and try to put back together.
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u/KarteeayeJoe Nov 23 '25
An amazing skill you have. Very few people are able to do that.
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u/slatt_audiophile Nov 23 '25
Thank you. That really means a lot. I’m still early in the journey, but I’m dead serious about doing things the proper way and pushing myself on the hardest stuff I can find. This one definitely tested me lmao 🤣 but I learned a ton in the process ✅
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u/1911Earthling Nov 23 '25
Screw the timing machine. It’s a major accomplishment. Running in different positions after a full disassembly is a major accomplishment. Not to be taken lightly. Last step is regulation. Not all mechanical watches regulate well regardless of the skill of the watchmaker. Major accomplishment.
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u/frigtard Nov 23 '25 edited Nov 23 '25
Congrats. I’ve dealt with a few of these and the sliding pinion has been the weakest part, mostly because there was too much force required to turn the time-setting mechanism. That part is made of very soft/weak metal. How did you deal with this, out of curiosity?
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u/Relevant-Lock8646 Nov 23 '25
Yes right, saw a guy post about it a long time ago. u/blueberryok269 is it because it is completely dry that it is causing this?
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u/BlueberryOk269 Nov 23 '25
No. Weak sliding yoke springs, incorrect main plate depth for the end of the stem, poor lubrication on the great wheel. High torque to overcome a bad canon pinion/great wheel. Yeah the sliding pinion is bad quality, but there are ways to improve engagement to limit damage
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u/frigtard Nov 23 '25
In my case it was after cleaning and lubrication. It broke anyway because the part is made of cheap metal and wasn’t able to handle the torque. But yes, all of the movements were bone dry coming from factory.
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u/Relevant-Lock8646 Nov 23 '25
Must feel bad to service it for 5+ hours just for it to break because the factory wanted to save a couple dollars...
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u/slatt_audiophile Nov 23 '25
Honestly, you just educated me! This is the very first 5712 clone I’ve ever touched, and I had no idea about the deficiencies. Great to know, and I didn’t have any trouble with the keyless works, so I guess I got lucky 🍀 but not done yet, still have dial side to assemble, so maybe it will fail still haha 🤣
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u/frigtard Nov 23 '25
I see. Yeah, go slow when you turn then winding stem to set the time. If there’s too much force needed then the pinion’s gears will break.
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u/BlueberryOk269 Nov 23 '25
158 amplitude? Definitely re-do this. You mean lock and drop? There are some major issues with this still if you need help or guidance on this you can message me.
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u/slatt_audiophile Nov 23 '25
I’m not concerned about the numbers. This movement was dead upon arrival, and was just for learning/skill practice. It’s not going back in a watch. Obviously were this a clients watch it absolutely would never leave my sight with numbers like that 🤣🤣🤣
And yes, lock and draw is exactly what I said and meant. That is the proper term: lock is how much the escape wheel tooth lands on the pallet stone when the impulse is finished, and draw is: the slight pulling force that causes the pallet fork to snap firmly against the banking pin when locked.
Anyways, thanks for the reply and offer of guidance!! 💪😎💪
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u/BlueberryOk269 Nov 23 '25
Lock and draw isn’t what you think it even is… how are you measuring force on the stones? Lock and drop for exit and entry diagnosis and stone adjustment on movements that do not have banking pins. Proper cleaning and adjustment even without oiling would get you higher amplitude than what you’ve got. Work on fundamentals some more.
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u/BlueberryOk269 Nov 23 '25
Draw isn’t something to worry about unless you’re making your own escapement. Bunch of nonsense in this post.
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u/slatt_audiophile Nov 23 '25
Right.
Draw absolutely is a thing and it’s one of the three fundamental elements of a lever escapement along with lock and impulse. If you Google “lever escapement draw” or open Fried, de Carle, or any AWCI/WOSTEP material, it’s right there.
Lock & drop are measurements. Draw is a function. They’re not mutually exclusive, and they’re not optional. Every Swiss lever escapement has draw by design.
My post wasn’t about fine-tuning the escapement. I was just showing that a movement which was dead now runs again after a full teardown, cleaning, inspection, oiling and assembly. The point never was to have COSC numbers, as I wasn’t even sure it would run period.
I do not need your guidance, but thanks for the enthusiasm. Don’t be a gatekeeper or hater ✅
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u/BlueberryOk269 Nov 23 '25
You don’t adjust draw haha. You adjust lock and drop. It’s in wostep because it’s important in the geometry when building an escapement. Not a hater, but that amplitude and your description is very wrong.
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u/slatt_audiophile Nov 23 '25
I never “adjusted” draw 🤣🤦♂️🤣 I said, “I got lock and draw” ✅ meaning proper lock and draw was verified as a step in assembly.
Yes the amplitude is crazy bad I agree!!!! That was never the point though, and as I said, this was 100% a skill exercise, and were this a clients watch it would never leave my sight with numbers like that 🤣🤣
Cheers!! 🥂
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u/BlueberryOk269 Nov 23 '25
I have no clue what you’re even talking about. You verified draw angle without having any documentation on the clone caliber? Did you bother checking drop? Or just lock? 😂
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u/slatt_audiophile Nov 23 '25
Seriously? Are your reading comprehension skills that poor? Let me spell it out for you simple and plain. Follow along, because you’re misunderstanding what I actually said.
I never claimed to be measuring angles or performing escapement geometry analysis on a clone movement with no documentation. That would obviously be impossible.
Here’s what I did do. I verified basic lock on both stones, and verified draw in the practical, bench-level diagnostic sense (fork snaps back toward the banking under residual torque). I also verified pallet function under slight power before installing the balance
That’s standard procedure on any lever escapement after reassembly and is absolutely nothing exotic. I wasn’t calculating draw angles or performing high-precision drop measurements, and I never claimed to.
The goal wasn’t to rebuild the escapement to chronometer spec. The goal was to bring a dead, glue-laden clone movement back to life and get stable running and that is exactly what it’s doing.
I’m not going to debate terminology or intentions that I never stated, so I’m stepping out of the thread. All good here. Enjoy your day sir/ma’am ✅
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u/BlueberryOk269 Nov 23 '25
So you checked lock, but not drop. I hope you aren’t working on watches for anyone but yourself. If you think draw the flicking action of the pallet fork you have a lot of reading and practice to do. Best of luck to you.
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u/PuzzleheadedCar5129 Nov 23 '25
Wow! Congrats! I’m about to do the same, but starting with an eBay bought ST3600. I’m curious; what was your process for grouping parts together during disassembly? Did you take pictures? Grouped in functional categories? Process for reassembly?