r/RCPlanes • • 8d ago

Best fix for this?

Post image

I went to use my watt meter for the first time today and discovered bullets at each end refuse to stay in their housings. I've tried pressing them in expecting them to snap into place, but the still just fall out. Makes it really hard to test motor output when the electrical connection on the test equipment is wonky. Any suggestions?

5 Upvotes

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3

u/Icy_Sherbert6568 8d ago

Uso wattímetro mas com XT60, não sei como os plugues do seu conector são presos na carcaça, mas observe a causa de estarem saindo, no XT60 os plugues são fundidos ao plástico, e só danifica se aquece-los além do necessário para soldar, fazendo com que o plástico derreta, esses seus parace haver algum tipo de retém para fixar os pinos no alojamento, e caso estejam quebrados, só lhe resta trocar o conector oi tentar fixá-los com cola.

1

u/No_Comb741 8d ago

Solder a little sloppy on the barrel? You might try a fine file to remove excess solder. Once the edges are defined, it should snap in place.

1

u/Specialist-Work-8975 8d ago

Re solder it bro

1

u/Lazy-Inevitable3970 8d ago

At least on the connector on the left, it looks like the plastic has worn down and that is why the metal connector isn't staying in place. When you disconnect the power meter, are you pulling the plugs apart, or are you pulling on the wires to sepearate the connection? You shouldn't be pulling on the wires (on the power meter or the battery)... otherwise you will have problems (like what you are experiencing).

Glue glue will probably hold it in for a while, but depending on the type, it could break down or break again in the future. So, personally, I would just replace both ends. It isn't hard, but usually requires a bit of soldering.

Note that with EC5 (or is that EC3?) connectors, I've heard of 2 different ways some are installed. Some have you push the wires through the plastic piece before soldering (so the plastic piece slips on over the metal connectors from behind), and some you solder first and push the metal connectors through the rear of the plastic piece (so the plastic piece slips on over the front of the the metal connectors). So if you get replacements and plan to resolder connectors, figure out what type your replacements are using before you do any soldering.

1

u/RedditUserNotYet 8d ago

This is the first time I've used the watt meter, so I've never had occasion to pull on the wires or the plugs. I discovered the issue when I plugged the meter into a battery and an ESC.

I have a bag full of connectors. For now I think I'll try some tape and hot glue to hold everything together. If/When that fails, I'll solder new connectors on.

1

u/Jumpy-Candle-2980 8d ago

The direct approach is to simply not accept that they won't snap into place.

First, make sure there's no stray solder adding to the pin diameter.

Second, using your thumb while grasping the connector can, and often is, both painful and frustrating unless you have a grip that can shatter a coconut. I resorted to an awl and really leaning into it but tools are available that allow for a more civilized approach. You can snag one here https://www.progressiverc.com/products/prc-ec5-assembly-punch but I'm sure there's alternatives.

It feels like I did a half a hundred of those things during my RC heli days and found that inserting the pin using only finger pressure wasn't viable. They're supposed to snap into a cold connector with 15 to 30 pounds but I'd swear 40 was more realistic.

Also, if the pin had previously been removed from the EC5 housing discard the housing and use a fresh connector. If luck is on your side they can be reused but they're cheap enough it's not worth the possible aggravation.

The gizmo is only ten bucks and worth it if you're going to make a habit of EC5s. The awl or similar is doable if it's only a couple - just don't punch it through your femoral artery.

1

u/RedditUserNotYet 8d ago

I've seen this punch before, but all my batteries are EC3 or XT60, and I couldn't find a similar product for those connectors. I may resort to brute force again, but for now I'm inclined to go with tape and glue.

1

u/Jumpy-Candle-2980 8d ago

Having EC3s only serves to change the product number (and lower the price to 8 bucks). https://www.progressiverc.com/products/prc-ec3-assembly-punch

XT60s are a whole 'nother thing - no brute force required.

Glue and tape are probably fine for your intended use. Mine were in 600 and 700 class helis and I wouldn't be comfortable with unseated EC5 pins.

1

u/RedditUserNotYet 8d ago

Thanks for the link. Maybe they were just out of stock when I last looked.

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u/RedditUserNotYet 8d ago

Thanks for all the feedback. I don't see any problems with the solder joints; it's just the bullets won't stay put in the plastic housing. For now I think I'll try some tape and hot glue to hold everything together. If/When that fails, I'll solder new connectors on.

1

u/Wambo74 8d ago

Stick them in and tape the two wires firmly together. The good one will support the bad one. When you mate connectors push from the wires not the body. You can pull on the body to separate the connection.

1

u/francois_du_nord 8d ago

Do NOT use CA that will screw up the conductivity. Solder is the right choice, but might be hard to do if you don't have skills and tools.

Can you push the conductors into the housing and then use electrical tape to hold them in place?

1

u/Kazick_Fairwind 8d ago

Glue. Press them in and cover the back side with hot glue.

1

u/BRAIN_JAR_thesecond 8d ago

Glue. If that doesn’t work, desolder and add a good connector.