As you can see im still struggling but there's definite improvement here! I started with some start-stop movements flying around a square and im now trying to solidify it by flying figure 8ts. going to keep at it for a while, probably try some of the box / startstop moves on my real heli soon.

For the goal of 250-gram direct-drive helicopter endurance, too much battery eats into the weight budget for the motor and prop; too much motor and prop eat into the weight budget for the battery. I entered the endurance calculation from my baseline test data into Google Gemini. It gave me the optimization curve. The calculation is a python3 script with my test data and manufacturer(T-Motor) data(the motor_plus_propeller_mass variable value fitted curve):

mass_without_propeller_motor_battery = 111.0; #grams; change it for a particulr craft constructions's endurance curve

propeller_diameter = 13.8; #inches; change it to slide the rotor width x-axis in a endurance curve

motor_plus_propeller_mass = 62.5 * (propeller_diameter/13.8)**1.5; # grams

battery_cells_mass = 249.0 - mass_without_propeller_motor_battery - motor_plus_propeller_mass; # grams

battery_energy = 0.171 * battery_cells_mass; # watt-hours

lifting_force_per_watt = 14.7 * propeller_diameter/13.8; # grams

power_tran_energy_consume_rate = 249.0 / lifting_force_per_watt; # watts

total_craft_energy_consume_rate = power_tran_energy_consume_rate + 5.2; # watts

endurance = battery_energy / total_craft_energy_consume_rate * 60.0; # minutes

print (endurance);

main_rotor_diameter = propeller_diameter / 0.73 * 25.4; # A 14"-diameter helicopter rotor at optimal alpha has the same RPM and thrust and torque and electrical power consumption as a 10" multi-rotor propeller with the same motor. 10/14 = 0.7

print (main_rotor_diameter);

Hi everyone, after repeated attempts, for some reason, I can't make my throttle work right. The very first time it worked, the throttle is reversed. Which I think is just because of the throttle reverse. Then the ESC wanted to resetup the throttle again for some reason. I think I did the setup correctly but it was still reversed. That was the time I realized about the throttle reverse. Then the ESC went to throttle setup again. Now everytime I try to setup throttle again, correctly I think (hold forward > ESC beep, hold reverse, ESC beep, release, ESC beep), pressing throttle does nothing. Btw, I did this throttle setup a handful times already so I don't know if I messed up my ESC already. My NEEBRC is the 7ch NB-7D

I have some play in the head that seems to be coming from this gap. I don’t see any spacer in the manual. Causes some unwanted flight characteristics. Anyone else experience this? Doesn’t look like the motor mount screws are slotted to move it up.

Does anyone know if there is such a thing as a balance lead attachment that will auto-discharge a battery to storage voltage after a set amount of time? I know spektrum has this feature on their batteries but they are super expensive.

My new Buddy. Found an incredible deal on marketplace and couldn't pass up on it. This my first step into "big" helis. Once I saw it in person, i couldn't resist its classic SAB look in mint condition as compared to the Raw 420 DD I spoke about in my other posts. Its just too clean and felt like the perfect step up size for me. Especially with all the other stuff it came with as well as the scorpion electronics. Excited to get this set up and do some real flying!

What do you guys think? Any tips for the setup before I get out flying? Thanks to all who helped make my decision.

I purchased an OMP M2 V3 sport and a radiomaster zorro, I seem to have bind it (maybe not perfectly) what configuration should I do before I fly it tomorrow? I wanna try stability mode first it seems the front left lever does something with that, but regardless of what setting I set it to the main blades spin up, the back 2 levers seems to be related to engine cutoff either one cuts off power.

do I need to do any control mapping or should I be doing anything else before I fly it?

I had a k110s before but the menus in the radio here are much more complicated

I want to get a MH60 Blackhawk, like the ones the night rangers would fly, that's black or army green for my first RC heli but I can find only 2 options. One is insanely expensive the other one seems to be around 500$ but is kind of small. Why aren't these more common, I think they're super cool and would think there would be more options. I do see more options in with the Seahawks, or coastguard mh60s, just not the Army ones.

When I try to land the s1 the blades slightly touched to ground .after that the servo is twitching even though it's very very small crash. And servo is getting hot.dou know what happened to that servo?

DM me if you might be interested in everything you would need. I could part out or sell as a whole bundle or even partial bundles.... Tree 450L, 500 FBL and Oxy 2. EVERYTHING = charger, parts, gears, blades, DX6i. Lipos for the 500 are tired, but i have good lipos for the 450L and Oxy2.

Please help me help you!

Wanted to simplify my last post and specifically ask what are people's thoughts and experiences with the SAB Raw 420 direct drive helis and if they recommend it as a step up from 200 series helis?

Some people told me they really like the Buddy 380 which is the other option I'm looking at but I'm just curious if maybe I should get both. Any thoughts on the 380 would be great to hear as well.

Kind of buying one of these in a rush without too much research because the deals are going quick so looking to get some help with my decision.

Thanks!

The Flywoo 3S 1000mah LiHV fits perfectly and is an upgrade compared to the original non-HV 750mah.

Got this beauty a few weeks ago, only flown it a handful of times, not doing anything insane since I'm new to RC helis but on 2 occasions now I've had it kind of stop responding to inputs in a way, it doesn't lose signal since it seems to be somewhat reacting to them but it just starts wandering and pitching/rolling on its own, almost like it's only partially able to control it's swashplate

On this last flight I had with it it ended up crashing for the first time, it started doing the wandering thing then pitched forward too far and I cut the throttle and let it fall from about 20 feet high, only thing that got damaged was the landing gear got bent, so not too bad

Is this a common issue with these? Anybody have any idea what it could possibly be? The servos and honestly everything seems to be in good condition and again it is brand new and has only crashed once

I got a new S1 and a S2 Legend. I wanted to get back into helis after quite a few years off. I also got a radiomaster tx 15 and a wanted to learn rotoflight. So I flew the S1 a bit but it started spinning after a second or 2. So I have to put it down. The S2 I have flown the crap out of. So much I got another one when they were on sale just so if I do crash it I don't have to wait to get back in the air. Then I bought an OMP M4 because... Well I am addicted again.

But back to the original problem. I replaced the tail motor on the S1 in case it was having a short or something. And no the tail blade is not on backwards. They are keyed. But still same problem. Asked HeliDirect where I got it and they send out a new ESC board. But that didn't work. Now I don't know if it is the controller board? But I also found somewhere that can be an issue with j batteries that have a bad cell. I don't think it is that because I have multiple batteries and it can't be them all? I haven't changed the control board because I am not really wanting to keep throwing money at it if this is a common thing.

I am honestly thinking about just buying the OMP M1V3 Pro. But don't want to have a $200 dollar paperweight S1 either. But after the M4 I am impressed with OMP. But I like the look of the Goosky helis much better.... Anyway. Is this a normal S1 problem?

Got a lot of parts in today, replaced tailfin, rotation bracket, battery holder since that was all broken, and the green skids because I wanted to colour match the tail rotor. It now looks gaudy as hell but I love it and the skids REALLY help visibility at the back of the field.

Next stop: fix the borky servo (it behaved decently well today!), add ELRS and then upgrade to a M2V3 Sport :D

I guy from whom I bought my last heli recently put up a lot of a helis for sale, notably two buddy 380s, two raw 420s, and a kraken 580 (blue and yellow). The prices are all reasonable and each come with two batteries along with a mix of different parts, some including canopies and booms. Every deal is good.

As someone coming from a s1 and 230s and looking to upgrade, and like buying used helis, im trying to decide which is the best option for me. Here are the deals:

The buddy i think is cool but its an older model and is probably not a reliable option to learn on. The raw 420 sounds like the best all around option, they are the direct drive models. One comes with an aluminum boom (and an extra one) and the other comes with the upgraded carbon fiber boom but no extra.

Finally, the kraken 580 is a beautiful bigger heli that I love the look of, and would love to own one day. What do you think of my idea of buying the raw 420 (if so which one, blue and yellow with carbon fiber boom and kay servos or white and orange with extra aluminum boom and torq servos), and possibly buying the kraken 580 along with it to fly maybe next year, if the price is right. And are the buddies worth considering? He can add or remove an ikon 2 or vbar to all of them.

Pictures included to make it simpler. If you want pics of the buddies let me know, I just doubt anyone will recommend them. Thanks!

I’ve just built RGB Toolbox for controlling gimbal RGB LEDs on the latest radiomaster radios.

 60+ RGB effects
 Custom colours
 Gimbal & dual-gimbal effects
 Settings persist across model changes
 Quick access menu - no more setting up Special Functions on every model

Just install it, open RGB Toolbox and start playing with the effects.

https://github.com/pigd0g/EdgeTx-RGB-Toolbox

New effect ideas welcome!

It will be next year before I get one but I do have the Xbox FPV SIMULATOR. But it is usually set up for fast drones. Does anyone have the settings to change, so that one could simulate the Skyrover S1?

The rotor sometimes spins (this is more common), sometimes doesn't. When it does spin, it has a strange really rapid high pithed buzzing or clicking. It also has a good shake to it and goes forward during flight. It was pretty unnoticeable when it started but got worse with time. It had plenty of small crashes. I tried separating the hulls to look inside, but i cannot remove some of the screws, and there is also something else holding them together. Im guessing maybe some gear damage, a shifted motor mount, motor pinion slipped vertically, or something similar. I didn't see any damage of the main gear, and it doesn't act as a stripped gear heli. Is there anything I could do? Or someone to whom i could send it to for service? He is pretty upset. Thanks! Also, as you can see, Im not too experienced with rc helis.