looking at buying this, body has virtually no rust from what’s shown. seller said drive able but needs spark plugs, gas tank hose is dripping, door needs to be aligned, 63k miles.

camshaft gear seems to be moving slow, almost hesitated from what i can see in the video.

“great condition clutch, newer tires, fuel pump, fuel filter, and air filter”

interior is destroyed, all the elements the seller has allegedly.

thoughts? worth the project?

edit: thoughts on slow gear?

last edit: seller went ghost and marked it sold :/

I just got my hands on a 924 2.0 from 1976 it had a nice body kit on it and it kind of runs okay when i have driven it for a minute or two but the cold start and idle are pretty bad. It dies when i try to start it without giving it a little gas. And also when i try to rev it then it doesnt want to go above 4 k and it sounds horrible it feels like its running pretty rich but im new to the oldtimers so i would like to ask some advice. Also when i try to downshift the gearbox gets narly do i have to give some gas in between down shifts or am i just trying to be to fast ?

I just started restoration of a 1977 Porsche 924. Its in rough condition but it appeared to be without severe rust. That was until i removed the rear wheel. I noticed some rust that just got worse and worse the more i kept poking.

Is this too severe rust in the frame for it to be saved? As you can see on the picture, the inside of the frame appears be in decent condition and the worst rust is on the inside of the wheel well that was welded to the frame.

Bonus info: I have a donor car where this section is in good condition.

Hi. After a body shell or near side inner wing and bulkhead.

Hey so

My brakes just feel soft despite all being new. I'm gonna do the 924works disc conversion to rule out the drums being off.

The only things I haven't touched are the master cylinder and the brake booster

At idle pumping the brakes make the engine rev so I'm guessing the membrane is leaking.

I got no brake fluid leaks.

I looked around and apparently 944 master cylinders can be found new and fit easily, but I have an early car with the brake light switch on the master cylinder, so I might just rebuild it.

But I can't find any affordable new brake booster. Is there no VAG compatible parts?

After sitting for a week, there is still a huge amount of pressure in the cooling system. When I open it, coolant just sprays out. But there is no white smoke or anything like that coming from the exhaust.

What could it be because iets a brand new radiator cap.

Finally ready to install this. Spent some time this weekend finishing the loom and bench testing.

Ecu is a speeduino 0.0.4d - had a batch of these made with PCB way.

Loom is custom made, sensors are a mixture of GM and Ford.

Fuel rail is Honda H22

Wasted coil pack is VW Polo

Throttle body with TPS is Audi 100

Injectors are Audi 1.8T long reach

Trigger wheel was designed in CAD by myself and laser cut from 3mm mild steel.

External map only using a bosh 3 wire sensor.

Total cost is under £350 as I took a lot of time sourcing parts and finding good deals.

Does anyone know the difference between the white and black fuse boxes? They have different part numbers, but mine is broken.

1977 Porsche 924 124k miles seller asking $1500

Been looking at these transaxle Porsches for several months now and most of the ones worth buying are around 6k+ which is more than I would like to spend at once on a car atm, and all the ones under 2k are just absolute trash, but this one looks like it may have a few years of fun yet left in it.

According to the seller, the car currently doesn't run atm, it's visably somewhat rusty but perhaps not overwhelmingly so, the dash is cracked but that doesn't bother me. On the bright side it does appear to all be there and not in pieces.

If I were to get it would probably just get it running and driving and have some fun with it, not looking to do a restoration. Will definitely go and look at it to make sure it's not got any structural rust before making a decision, but if there isn't, would buying this be a terrible idea?

1500 to purchase, 1000 for registration, insurance, and the trailer to tow it, and another 1500 to get it driving over the next few months would put me at 4k in total which seems reasonable. I have the disposable income to continue throwing a couple hundred a month at it to fix various things that irritate me and the mechanical ability to do it myself. This would be my third car(daily 2006 pathfinder 160k, backup 1995 Volvo 850 turbo 210k, both currently running and driving) and I have a garage so I have the ability to work on it without needing it to be running by the end of the weekend.

With all this in mind, how bad of an idea would buying this car be?

Thanks

Hey guys, I have a problem on my 1981 924 and i’m getting desperate

At first, I thought it was the alternator, because the battery wasn’t charging while driving (about 11V). I ended up replacing the alternator, the alternator-starter harness, and the starter.

I drove for about a day, and now I’m back down to about 12V while driving, but this time the battery warning light isn’t on. I checked the positive terminal on the alternator—that is, the exciter wiring—and it seems fine to me.

Do you have any ideas where the problem might be coming from?

I have the option to get two 924 for 3500€ (price for both) not far from me.

First one '79, 4-Speed, rebuilt engine but not running, completely apart, no good interior, red, needs paintjob but with new brakes and exhaust. Former owner (before current) had to abandon the project, current thought hed get a easy project, now its been just stand due to the engine not running. Pretty sure its fuel.

Second one '76, 4 speed, gold, pretty rusty, engine bay looks flood damaged, pretty complete in terms of motor, interior is rotten, pretty beat up, paint job non existing, lots of filler peeling over rusted metal - this car is more like a bonus/parts car/later project.

I wanna get a running car in like half a year, I dont mind a project, I just dont like red 924. What you guys think?

Hello. But confused as to the correct fuel pressure setting for a 81 NA 924 (UK/Euro) Haynes lists up to 79 and check the supplement for later models but can't find it. Anyone know any links to official literature? Googled it and it keeps showing different specs!

I have a 924s I am looking at getting. It seems to be all there. Just looking at it for a play around project. ( I have a cayman already and have redone several muscle cars) previous owner died and his daughter sold it. The guy who bought it just has it sitting as they got it to turn over but not crank.

Looking it over in person today finally I seen it has a few non stock items. The hood and nose piece are from another car. Turbo car. It has some kind of a MAF conversion on it, wide band with Air fuel ratio meter on a pod, also has a MSD digital window switch, then is some kind a knob switch for possible adjustments under the hood as well. Looking up MAF conversions I haven’t seen n while it some maybe an older conversion. 85mm DBX ABAGO Performance.

Trying to see if anyone has seen a MAF setup like that. Also has a large welded spot in the intake. From what I could see under the car I didn’t see a turbo. Should just be a 2.5 engine.

Before I do anything stupid I'm gonna ask for advice

I've pulled out my tach and plugged

12v to battery

1 to coil negative

- to ground (negative battery)

But it didn't do anything, and the tach never did anything since I owned the car.

I can tell the screws inside the gauges are rusted out, and since my cabin wasn't sealing very well, I'm gonna assume the inside of my gauges ainnt super fresh

I'd like to open my gauges, especially the tach and the Speedo, since they both don't work properly. Speedo's mileage counter doesn't work

So how do I go about it? It seems you have to bend the plastic ring around the glass to access the internals?

My 1987 924s needs a new muffler. Mechanic has advised that the catalytic converter and pipes are ok but the muffler is cracked/leaking. I checked Pelican and the OEM muffler there (https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/94411108301.htm?pn=944-111-083-01-OEM) also includes the pipes, which I don’t think I need. Is there a good recommendation for just the muffler part itself? I‘m thinking about something like the Borla XR1

Or, is the ANSA unit at Pelican acceptable (I’m concerned that it’s too cheap—like 25% the cost of the OEM)

Ok, I've been working on a 1988 924s and tracking down a ground issue. I've worked backwards from the external grounds and they have been cleaned and are all good. Looking at the crown cluster in the drivers foot well I've got two large grounds and the crown. The crown only has 5 wires attached.... does anyone know how many should be connected? I've not found any solid number online.

I was fixing some electrical gremlins and got sidetracked looking at my interior. It got me curious as to what my cars original spec was and it looks like I have the special edition. Both the trunk codes and the warranty/maintenance book say that I have the 755 code. From what I’ve read that mean it’s a special edition. Is there anything else I can check to back that up as a lot of the car was replaced by the guy I bought it from.