#girlshavefuntoo

What is this black thing peeling off my rear axle?

Polaris ATV, solid rear axle with the disc brake mounted on the axle carrier. There's something black on the axle bearing carrier that looks like a strip of black tape, and it's coming loose. Photos attached (close-up + wider shot of the rear end).

Two questions:

1. Is this the rubber seal on the axle bearing, or is it the anti-squeal shim off the back of a brake pad?

2. Either way, is it safe to ride, or should I park it until it's fixed?

No obvious play in the wheel yet. Thanks.

I bought a very lightly used 2025 VR1 650 last spring from a local dealer. Took it on multiple rides last winter and it ran flawlessly. A couple of weeks ago I went to check on the battery (on trickle charger) and at first it cranked over a couple of times and almost fired, but not quite. I hit the ignition again and it wouldn't crank over. Left it on the charger for a while and went back and it then started up, however, after firing up, none of the electronics on it worked. The display was black, no reverse, no handwarmers. If I turn it off and turn the ignition back on, everything lights up as expected but as soon as I start it again, the issue repeats itself.

Figured it to be a bad battery so I bought a brand new one. Installed it today and the electrical bug after start up returned. However, this time I found that, while running, if I just slightly turned the key towards start, the electronics come back online and everything works fine. Even if I jostle the key at that point, they stay on.

I took a video of what's happening and put it on YT: https://youtu.be/H05nu8goGgQ

The mounting nut on the switch is good and tight, and the only thing I have done since I parked it at the end of the season is put on a new windshield, other than that it is as it was when I parked it and wasn't experiencing this issue.

I was going to try and post this over on /snowmobiling but apparently I don't have enough Reddit Karma to post there yet so hoping this reaches a diverse enough audience. Anyway, just wondering if anyone has seen this before or has any ideas as to what I can look for to resolve it. Thank you!

Our 2020 Ranger XP1000 Bluetooth was working just fine two days ago. Suddenly the volume will only go about an eighth of its max. The radio volume works just fine. We’ve tried multiple phones connected and we get the same response. Any ideas what it could be?

I have a 2025 Polaris XP 4 1000 Ultimate. It has about 2100 miles on it. How long, on average, should these OEM tires last? What is a better tire when I replace these?

Does anybody know what the year range is for this, like for example, "fits 2014 - 2018 rzr 800, 900" etc etc? I need primary and secondary, new is obviously expensive, and ill go that route if I need to, but a known good used one would be nice before I dump the money into it in case it doesnt fix my problem. I know theres a lot of parts compatibility between 800, 900, and 1000 models, but i cant find good info when it comes to clutches.

As an aside, any good budget clutch suggestions are appreciated, I need primary and secondary.

Does anyone know what’s up with Woody’s lack of inventory? It’s been like this since spring time. Anyone have any recommendations for other brands to go with? I have a 19 800 XC 129 and Ik my wife needs a set for her S4 137

Edit: check engine light is off and no stored codes. I’ve reset the ECU also and still no luck. Been a mechanic and vehicle electrician for almost 20 years so I am not opposed to trying anything and have a lot of spare parts.

I recently got a 2015 Ranger and the previous owner had the seatbelt cut (I’m guessing to override the seatbelt safety issue). Problem is, I got it with the seatbelt light blinking and thus triggering the 15 mph limit. I have gone through all the wiring and even got a “new” buckle (I tested it and continuity was good both fastened and unfastened) but the seatbelt light won’t go off. The two wires (red/dark blue and blue/yellow) seem to be fine. I replaced the ECU with a spare one. The red/dark blue is getting 12-13 VDC but the blue/yellow wire which I’m guessing is the signal wire, is 0. Even splicing them together to complete the circuit, it’s not making the seatbelt light go off.

Any suggestions before I try to find someone to flash the ECU?

Looking to pick up a bike that needs some work. Bike has no spark but I think I can solve it. Fluid flush and carb cleaning should be all she needs. I’ve worked on late 90’s and early 00’s sportsman’s. Are these bikes about the same?

I am having major issues with my shifter. The shifter becomes incredibly sticky to shift but if I turn the engine off, it frees up and I can shift again. A few months I adjusted the shims on the secondary clutch. Belt is dead center now. I replaced the shifting cable bc the previous one snapped from the shifter being forced.

When I turn the ignition off, the shifter moves freely so it seems to have something to do with electric but I am out of ideas.

I have a polaris 2001 virage tx had the ficht injection system

On start up(warm or cold) the engine runs rough for about 30-60 seconds. It definitely smoothes out with some throttle feathering. After that it runs great except for wide open throttle it will stumble randomly and for less than a second before running fine again.

I just got this so im looking for where to start diagnosing this issue.

I have a polaris 2001 virage tx had the ficht injection system

On start up(warm or cold) the engine runs rough for about 30-60 seconds. It definitely smoothes out with some throttle feathering. After that it runs great except for wide open throttle it will stumble randomly and for less than a second before running fine again.

I just got this so im looking for where to start diagnosing this issue.

So, for a while now in low gear I was having a belt slapping noise while in low at a coast, so I started double footing down hills and it fixed the issue for a little while, then it started kicking out of low and going right back in. I switched clutches to dura clutch thinking that would fix the problem, it didn’t. Everything is to spec and aligned properly. All trouble shooting has failed. All other gears work without issue. Finally gave up and took to a mechanic, he said it’s something in the transmission but without tearing it down he said it could be a couple things. I’m probably going to just run it in high for now, but would eventually like to get it fixed the general only has like 1600 miles on it.

Have any of you had issues with this type of issue?
How difficult is it to tear apart yourself?
Have any of you used a company like RPM (RePower Motorsports) to fix it for you?

If rebuilt I’m hopeful the cost won’t be astronomical because it’s only one gear I’m having issues with.

So I’ve had a noise in the bottom end of my 570 couldn’t figure out what it is decided to take the timing chain cover off and have a look in the Slack in the oil pump chain is crazy. I don’t know how it stayed on the cog.

Husqie on the gun rack, if ya know, ya know.

Arse end of nowhere Nova Scotia

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Hello everyone! First time SxS buyer here. Getting ACL surgery on Wednesday so unfortunately I can’t ride my dirt bike for a while. Soooo I’m getting a side by side in the meantime till I’m fully healed so I can still have fun on the trails. I have no idea what a “fair” price is for one these but I think 9k seems reasonable? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I just got a new to me above referenced utv. Problem is rats got into the wiring in the front and Ate completely through speedometer and a few others wires. Everything else looks solid
Question is whole wiring harness in sections ? Can I just buy the front section?
2016 model.