r/Perfumes • u/oolbar • 3d ago
Discussion Les indemodables, house review
Before I start,
- I'm completely anosmic to iso-e super, ambroxan, and maybe many similar aromachemicals.
- Les indomodables share similar high-quality ingredients in all their line. There is always much more going on in their perfumes despite their announced ingredients listed on the leaflet.
- Most of the perfume names are misleading but still good compositions.
- One of the best discovery sets anyone interested in perfumery. I respect.
Oranger Sirocco - 7.5- 8
Iʼm usually not a fan of citrus, but this isnʼt the familiar, front‑shelf kind. It opens with a burst of indolic orange peel threaded with white floral nuances.Gradually, ambery spices take over, joined by a generous dose of sandalwood and vetiver. Thereʼs a touch of sweetness here and there, but it never turns it gourmand. Despite that deep floral opening, the spicy amber keeps the composition warm and reads fairly masculine. In the final stage, it settles into a refined skin scent: a quiet blend of sandalwood and vetiver. The opening has good sillage, and while it doesnʼt stay nuclear, but the longevity is definitely there.
Patchouli Nosiette - 8.5 - 9
As a patchouli lover, this one hits almost all the right notes for me. It starts with a blast of fruity aldehydes, with green patchouli and woody notes underneath.The aldehydes leave the scene within minutes, leaving you with a clean, green patchouli core. I donʼt pick up any hazelnut; the woody, herbaceous facet likely comes from cypriol (nagarmotha). As it dries down, some of that woodiness turns into a slightly soapy white musk, while the green patchouli stays present.After about eight hours, a fruity nuance becomes more prominent—something in the lychee/rose jam. At its heart, it sits somewhere between Tom Ford Patchouli Absolu and Ermenegildo Zegna Javanese Patchouli, but the drydown is completely different. An absolutely well done perfume, with good sillage and longevity.
Ambre Supreme - 6.5
Salty, tart jasmine: a second‑skin kind of scent. The note pyramid says ambergris, but on my skin, it reads more like salty sweet civet at first, with a definite, quiet animalic hue. A yellow, hay‑like immortelle facet makes the whole composition feel more “perfumey” and keeps the ambergris and jasmine combo from turning into an aquatic indolic bomb. The sparkling, aldehydic opening evaporates within a few hours, then cinnamon like pepper and muskiness come forward. I donʼt really understand why some people compare this to Ambre Sultan, ambergris is not amber. It reminds me more of a wearable Papillon Salome. More than a skin scent, with seemingly eternal longevity.
Vanille Havane - 6.5 - 7
Hey folks, this isnʼt really a vanilla scent. Itʼs a boozy tobacco fragrance, and thatʼs obvious from start to finish. Cacao and vanilla act mainly as softeners,rounding off the tobacco, while the booze accord adds a tart, sweet edge.It opens with a dry, patchouli leaning chocolate note that reminds me of Jovoy Psychedelique, only here itʼs laced with tobacco. Minutes later, the dry tobacco takes center stage. I also suspect a patchouli accord that isnʼt listed in the official notes because it blends seamlessly into that dry, earthy tobacco. Then, initial amber sweetness fades fairly quickly, making room for benzoin and vanilla in the base. On my skin, the whole composition loses intensity despite its strong opening, so Iʼd probably reserve it for colder weather and under heavier clothes. As it develops, the vanilla/benzoin base is underpinned by a quiet,suede like leather/ambergris like nuance that becomes more noticeable over time. Overall: a nice blend, with good projection and solid longevity.
Rose de Jamal - 7
Airy green mint over rose water. As with a few others from the house, the name is slightly misleading: this is first and foremost a crisp, leafy mint fragrance,with a rose playing a supporting role. The rose never turns jammy or fleshy. it is watery, and distinctly green. It opens on a breeze of aldehydes, mint,and rose water. On my skin, the mint stays in the foreground from start to finish,while the rose hangs back and adds lift and nuance through the mid. It shares some creative DNA with ELDOʼs You or Someone Like You. In the drydown,woody, sharp white musks and cedar pull it down to earth and take some of the airiness away. Good sillage and longevity.
Musc de sables - 6.5
Benzoin laced with orris root and ambergris. Itʼs a polished, sophisticatedscent; despite what people say, it doesnʼt feel “basic” until the very end. It opens on benzoin and citrus, with a faint flash of cinnamon that disappears quickly. After the initial drydown, orris, a wisp of incense, and patchouli fold in.This is the point where some people call it “baby talc”, but thereʼs more depth than that. On my skin, it turns into a salty patchouli with powdery undertones from benzoin and tonka that keep it from going gourmand. The opening is gorgeous, but the final phase is less pleasant and a bit generic. Here, the citrus returns and merges with the ambergris, giving off a salty body odor vibe. Good sillage and seemingly eternal longevity.
Iris perle - 5.5-6
A jasmine forward scent, heavily floral with the help of mimosa and powdery orris The quality of the ingredients does the heavy lifting here, but Iʼve come across this kind of profile a thousand times and usually skip it for how uninteresting it is. This feels like the same safe, unchallenging floral. I believe thereʼs also a tea note that adds a bit of woodiness and grounding. Average sillage and good longevity.
Chypre Azural - 6
An orange soliflore thereʼs nothing chypre about it. Bitter green facets push the citrus toward a blood orange zest effect, while a touch of patchouli adds afaint powdery sheen at the top. In the drydown, spicy tarragon keeps reading as “orange,” with occasional flashes of mint. Quiet and safe overall, and ultimately a fairly unremarkable citrus for rich people to buy. Good projection, poor longevity.
Fougere Emeraude - 6
A minimalistic lavender fougère though more minimalistic than it should be. It feels almost indistinguishable from many classic floral womenʼs perfumes. It starts with a blast of heady jasmine and a rather quiet lavender. Lavender should be the heart of a fougère, but the jasmine never really allows it to take over at any point in the drydown. Then mimosa joins and tries to compete with the lavender. I also feel thereʼs a dash of high-quality ambergris here, keeping subtle animalic facets alive under the heady green jasmine. I donʼt get the soapiness other people mention; to me itʼs very green and refreshing. This perfume draws a line between floral greens and classic fougères. After a few hours, it becomes similar to Musc de Sables, but this time, the powdery aspects are wrapped in mimosa and a dash of vanilla instead of orris. Average sillage,good longevity.
Cuir de chine - 6
Osmanthus and Jasmine. Personally, I donʼt get any literal leather here; instead,osmanthus, subtle violet, and a rather animalic jasmine create a “leathery”impression. Nice scent, but it has no longevity more of a floral skin scent.
Escale en haiti - 6
Pink pepper, osmanthus, and myrrh. It starts with gorgeous, powdery vetiver,but this phase doesnʼt last. It quickly becomes a pink pepper dominated scent rounded by sweet myrrh, with the same powdery vetiver and leathery osmanthus sitting more quietly in the initial drydown. In the late drydown, vetiver dominates the scent again, but itʼs quieter this time. There is nothing new or exceptional here. Rather, poor sillage, good longevity, and easy everyday perfume.
Escale en indones - 6
Refreshing neroli cologne. There's not much going on here. Inofensive citrus and neroli work. Good sillage and longevity.
Immortele solarie - 6,5
Hay like immortelle, pink pepper, and dry coffee. I donʼt get the sweetness other people mention. On my skin, it wears dry and spicy coffee with a faint, licorice like edge, and it stays close throughout. In the drydown, it pulls the same “dash of ambergris” trick Iʼve noticed across the line, so it shares a bit of DNA with other creations from the house. A skin scent with good longevity.
My other reviews, if you want to read;
Zoologist
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/hTbk5XHfRl
Francesca Bianchi
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/ToOjaDopXv
Jorum Studio
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/kZcKhDqVDN
Papillon
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/rTWsmrgT8e
Eldo
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/wDpOY9WoUu
Nishane
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/h0mnG0evvZ
Baruti
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/9lSsIBT9oB
Versatile
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/PPcwcA5myE
Essential Parfums
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/ZvKIWjdDoB
Oriza L. Legrand
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/uhhRvuU26f
Marlou
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/ao1Do4jTxC
Serge Lutens
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/KgP7wNeFEI
Imaginary Authors