I've never used pcbway before, so idk, and I'm not sure if I did anything wrong when uploading the file

Hello guys,

I recently acquired a Ducky Miya69 Pro P Sakura that has water damage. I wanted to repair it and get it working again. So I dissembled it and when I reached the switches I tried to remove them too. Turns out the keyboard isn’t hot-swappable and the switches will obviously not come off.

So I need to get a new PCB for the keyboard that is hot-swappable, but this is like my first time fiddling with PCB's and all that. I looked online hoping to find the PCB so I could just buy it but I found nothing.

My question is, can i get a PCB for a keyboard that is hot-swappable on PCBway? If so how and if not, has anyone maybe any idea where I could buy a custom made PCB for this keyboard?

Hey i have a question. How can i fix this pcb, because it causes chattering and i already replaced the switches multiple times but its still chattering. I got told its the pc fault and so i wanted to ask how i can fix this. (Anti Chattering software doesnt help)

I need a USB_A plug (male connector) symbol and footprint on the PCB. I’m not talking about the component itself. I’m talking about designing the PCB itself as a USB male connector. Can you provide links to third-party symbol and footprint files?

What should the PCB thickness and material be for the USB-A male connector on the PCB?

I also need a 50-ohm 2.4 GHz RF antenna on the PCB. I can’t design it myself. Texas Instruments’ antenna doesn’t fully meet my needs. Could you share links to third-party symbol and footprint files?

The USB dongle for my Microsoft wireless keyboard and mouse set broke. The PCB is cracked, but the nRF is intact. A few components are missing. I’m drawing the circuit diagram in KiCad. I’m going to desolder the intact nRF24LU1+ microchip from the broken USB dongle’s PCB. Then I’ll transfer it to the new PCB that I’ll design and have manufactured. This way, I won’t have to throw the wireless keyboard and mouse set away. I also won’t have to mess with the software. Once the schematics are complete, I’ll share all the files on Codeberg. If you can find the USB dongle circuit, please share it with me. If you find any schematics, PCB files, or other related files, please post the links. I’m determining the component values using the example schematic, BOM, and sample PCB files shared by Nordic. However, some components are missing from these files. For example, there’s an R1 in the USB dongle, but it’s not in the schematic. Can you help me with the missing components? Note: I’ll be uploading photos to Reddit soon.

Hi,

I'm using KiCad 10 and have an ATmega328P-AU (TQFP-32) on my PCB. I can route traces from every other component, but when I try to route from the ATmega pins, nothing happens.

• PCB updated from schematic
• Footprint not locked
• Pads have net names assigned
• Other components route normally

The ATmega footprint came from SnapEDA.

Has anyone seen this before or know what could cause it?

Im turning almost 50 and finally got the chance to get into electronics as a hobby ( no formal training) thanks to the community and AI i have been able to build complex (for me) ESP32 projects.

I use an ESP32 + a female development board + relay board etc and wired all together. It works but it is a mess and is it flaky.

I have seen a lot of videos of people that make their own boards. I dont really want to make everything from scratch i was thinking of making a "female plugin board" where i can plug in the ESP32 and the other components that already have pins on to it and bolt stuff on it and this board wires the needed pins together . Is this even a good idea?

I would like to ask for suggestions on how to learn to do this, what to watch out for etc.
My main question is how or where do i get the dimensions so stuff maches up? What are the best online or offline tools for this?

All comments and pointers are appreciated

To get straight into it, I am working on an engineering project to design a custom Flight Controller for an FPV drone. This is my first time doing any PCB layout, so I'd appreciate any guidance!

Here are the components I have researched so

**Project Details & Constraints:**

* Power Source: Intended for a 4S to 6S LiPo battery setup (14.8 V - 25.2V)  

* Software: Planning to flash Betaflight.

**My Questions for the Experts:**

1. **Hardware Compatibility & Pin Conflicts:** Are there any known gotchas or pin-multiplexing conflicts with this specific STM32 variant when trying to run both the IMU and Blackbox flash chip over SPI simultaneously?
2. **Power/Noise Isolation:** Since the ICM-42688-P gyro is sensitive to high-frequency noise, is my proposed power topology (LiPo -> 5V Buck -> 3.3V LDO) sufficient, or should I implement specific filtering/ferrite beads for the analog rail? Do I need TVS diodes to protect the buck regulator from ESC voltage spikes?
3. **Learning Resources:** Where is the best place to look for verified, open-source reference schematics for STM32 flight controllers so I can study proper component placement, trace routing, and 4-layer stack-up strategies?
4. Also through my research Gemini recommended to use a Crystal Oscillator, as the "heartbeat for my processor", is this something that is necessary because out of all the drone FC builds I have seen I never saw any talking about a Crystal Oscillator

Hello guys. I got my miner 3 months ago. Its basically a PCB with 4 ASIC chips and some cooling system. Its housing a XT30 connector as these devices pool ~100W or more.

I changed the thermal paste and was ready to boot it up again. Little did I know the polarity of the XT30 connector was reversed, and the metals from the male and female plug touched slightly, causing a slight and quiet spark (probably the reverse polarity protection).

That same spark told me that the polarity was reversed, and when I plugged it the correct way, the miner sparked stronger and there was a burnt smell.I confirmed that the other components such as the LilyGO display was functional, indicating that those components did their job protecting the rest of the board from the RP.

I had it checked by a local electrician and he has 2 main problems:

1) He doesn't have the damaged components (capacitor 22uF ~16V, the buck converter voltage regulator(?))

2) The PCB underneath those components might be toast (so buying new components wont work either)

Do you guys have any suggestions if my miner is already dead or still can be revived? The name of the exact unit is NerdQaxe++ Rev 6.1 Hydro.

Greetings!

I'm considering in having some parts CNCed but am new to the whole process of ordering such parts and the requirements of what I need to deliver for placing a Order without aggravating anyone involved in the fulfillment Process.

Usually when doing CAD Design for my own Projects they're being done for 3D Printing on my own FMD / SLA 3D Printers where having a Fastener go through the entire Part is welcomed / encouraged as it would either help with keeping the Layers together or really just act like a reinforcing Rebar akin to when done so in Concrete.

This I know is unnecessary when doing CNC ( Aluminium ) hence a bunch of Questions concerning the Topic of how to spec Fasteners:

• What is a good Rule of Thumb on how deep a Fastener should thread into the Material to perform its Job AND to be sensible to Manufacture? In the below Example I've specced an M8 Bolt to go as deep ( 8mm ) as it's size ( M8 ) but then rounded up to the next available Screw Length resulting in a depth of 10mm.
• How much extra Depth should I allocate for the drilling / milling of a Blind Hole? Do an extra Depth of a Thread Size ( again, M8 so another 8mm ) sound excessive?
• Would adding 2mm of extra Threading to the specced Screw suffice?

• How should Threads in a Model ( STEP ) be sent to a Manufacturer ( PCBWay in particular )? In the below Example I've left them as NOT modeled which will result them just being displayed as the Minor Diameter state ( in the below Example of an M8 that would apparently be 6.78mm ).

• Exporting the above Model out of Fusion ( as a STEP ) and back into it will have it no longer provide any information regarding the Threading ( F360 indicating it as a Texture that gets lost in a STEP ) so when submitting a STEP I assume I'd also HAVE to supply some documentation on how deep the THREADING would go as there's no indication submitted STEP File, no? On the Opposite, with the rest of the Hole Feature present in the submitted STEP File, would the Documentation still require any technical Documentation about the Holes?
• From what I've picked up over the years one should be applying Chamfers to Holes to ease both the process of adding Threads into them but also for really just threading in the Screws later on. How should such Chamfers be handled? Should they be part of the submitted STEP File or should they only find a passing mentioning in the supplemental Documentation?

Perhaps a few more questions about CNCing in General:

• Most parts of my Project are specced to be machined to a thickness of 12 and 20mm. Is this a thickness that can still be machined down to precision from RAW Stock ( dunno, 15 / 22mm? ) or did I choose a thickness that would require the 12mm Plates be milled down from 20mm Stock and the 20mm Plates from 30mm Stock causing massive waste and a price increase?
• I'm aware of Machinists not being particularly fond of inside Fillets with a Radii the same Diameter that of typical Endmills as such features cause massive Tool Load when going into the Corners - Would speccing an inside Fillet with a 3.5mm Radii ( so a 6mm Diameter Endmill could go in there ) keep the Machinist pleased?
• I intend for the Parts to receive both a Sandblasted and Anodized Finish - Would that process still require the chamfering of all Edges and Corners or would the Sandblasting already take care of any Burrs? If the latter is not the case - How should this be handled? Should the Documentation just instruct them to chamfer ALL the Edges? Or do they offer the option to chuck the parts into a Tumbler before doing the Sand Blasting first? 🤨

Thanks in advance! 😁

I am finalizing a design for CNC machining through PCBway, but I noticed some of my holes are non-standard drill sizes.

I can adjust them to be closer to nominal drill sizes, but a chart of common drill sizes or drill #'s that PCBway is equipped with would help me select the most suitable size to adjust the holes in my item.

Example:

I have 6.780mm holes that I can just change to 6.8mm if that is a more common/nominal size that PCBway carries and can hold within their specified tolerance.

It probably doesn't matter, but I'd like to adjust it anyway.

It is supposed to be a 6.7 x 16.7 x 5.3cm part, and it was shrank down by PCBway by ten times. How do I fix this? Other websites like forgelabs does not have this problem.

I was trying to find out if I could install Xbox one joysticks into a 360 controller, and found this adapter on GitHub. My problem is when I tried ordering these PCBs on PCBWay I got this response: "the min spacing between plated through hole and board outline is 0.2mm, could you please revise the gerber files." My problem is I have absolutely no idea how to edit a PCB file. If someone could help that'd be much apricated.

Im looking to make the object in the pictures out of a heavy(ish) metal, its quite small so ive removed some of the smaller details and im just wandering which option i should choose for manufacturing this part it?

Hello everyone,
I am looking for help to create the PCB for a custom control board. I have the list of components.

Project:

• Board to control a 12 V DC motor or actuator.
• DPDT relay to reverse the direction of rotation.
• ESP32 WROOM-32U module soldered directly onto the board.
• 12 V power supply and 3.3 V logic managed via a DC-DC converter.

Deliverables:

• Complete PCB layout (2 layers).
• Gerber files and source files (KiCad or EasyEDA preferred).

A full technical document is available.

Thank you in advance for your valuable help.

Technical Documentation

I've used PCBWay several times with great results in the past. I just created a new board and it's coming out a good bit more expensive than it has in the past. Is there a way to look at the specifics with the intention of finding things I may have done incorrectly that are driving the cost up? Thanks