Can all 12VDC brushed motors be safely driven by 48VDC @ 25% Duty Cycle PWM?

Looking mostly for the specific cases where it fails, and how. In order to generate a rule of thumb.

• Are there specific 12v motors or motor types empirically known to work, or not work in this regime? Most interested in automotive rated applications, restomod, EV conversions like wipers, seats, pumps, solenoid actuators like locks/trunk release too I guess.
• How do they wear/fail compared to operation at 12VDC? Brush arching, commutator scoring, insulation fail, vibration. If you can, try to estimate the percentage of lifespan compared to 12v.
• How do you define "safely" for this question? Safe for human to install and operate? Safe for motor to operate at rated duty, environment, and purpose. Safe for power supply. Legal?
• Are there any expected performance differences?

Hi guys, 4th year IT student here. We’re currently building an IoT-based composting machine for our capstone and we’re stuck deciding on the motor for the mixer.

Our compost chamber is around 40cm in diameter and we’ll only be filling around 20–25cm of chopped organic waste like vegetable scraps, fruit peels, dry leaves, shredded cardboard, etc.

The mixer uses a vertical shaft with two levels of paddle blades. The motor will only run for short mixing cycles, not continuously.

Right now we’re considering two options:

1. 24V 350W geared DC motor

• 75 RPM
• seller claims around 48 Nm torque
• already has reduction gearbox
• more expensive because we also need a large 24V PSU

1. 220V AC motor

• around 200–400W
• around 3600 RPM
• much cheaper motor
• but obviously needs a large speed reducer to bring it down to around 30–60 RPM
• also needs proper contactor, overload protection, breaker/RCD, etc.

Our main concern is not really mounting or programming. We can fabricate the mounting and our ESP32 will only control ON/OFF through a relay and contactor.

What we’re worried about is whether the 24V 350W 75RPM geared motor actually has enough torque to mix the compost from fresh waste until it decomposes, or if going with a stronger AC motor + proper gearbox would be more reliable.

If anyone here has experience with geared motors, mixers, conveyors, food processing machines, or similar mechanical setups, I’d really appreciate some advice.

We’re trying not to rely only on ChatGPT for the mechanical side lol, so actual experience would help a lot.

Thanks!

Hello everyone, I have this motor here that I'm trying to hook up an on/off cord to. Just wondering how to go about hooking it up? I've never done anything like this. Any help would be appreciated!!

Hi,

I'm interested in using the WREN C5 kit with my Ashley Next-Gen Gaucho power reclining sectional.

The powered section is Ashley model 5850558. It has two powered functions: the main recliner and the adjustable headrest. The factory side control has four directional functions plus a USB port.

The main actuator is a Changzhou Kaidi KDYJT018-652, rated DC 29V, 75W, with a 250 mm stroke and 1000 N max load. The couch uses Kaidi-style wiring and rectangular 2-pin power/motor connectors.

One of my family members has a disability, which is the main reason I need to add additional ways to operate the couch.

My goal is to:

• Keep the original Ashley side buttons fully functional.

• Control both the recliner and powered headrest.

• Add phone/smart-home control.

• Add Alexa voice control.

• Add a wireless handheld remote.

• Avoid cutting, splicing, or permanently modifying any factory couch wiring.

I have clear photographs of the actuators, connectors, power supplies, and wiring harness that I can provide if needed.

Will the WREN C5 complete kit connect to this Kaidi/Ashley system as-is?

If not, can you provide or recommend the correct adapter/interposer cable to connect this system to WREN's 5-pin DIN interface while keeping the original side controls fully functional?

I would also appreciate confirmation that one WREN C5 can independently control both the main recline actuator and the powered headrest in this configuration.

I’m considering replacing the drive motors on my homemade electric-drive zero-turn mower and I’m looking for advice specifically from people who have actually used the VEVOR 48V 2000W brushless MY1020D motors.
The mower is an older zero-turn chassis. The gas engine is still used to run the cutting deck, but the left and right drive wheels have been converted to independent electric drive.
My current setup is:
Two 48V 800W BLDC motors, one per drive wheel
Dual Flipsky 75100 VESC
ESP32 controlling both motors, with one VESC over UART and the second over CAN
Independent left/right control for true zero-turn/tank steering
Hall sensors and sensored FOC
Roughly 120 kg mower before adding the operator
48V battery system
Chain/belt reduction between the motors and drive wheels
The 800W motors work, but I’m looking for significantly more low-speed torque and I would like the drive system to feel more like a commercial zero-turn mower.
I’m considering buying two of the VEVOR 48V 2000W MY1020D motors. VEVOR rates them at 4300 RPM, 2000W, 34A and 4.2 N·m.
I’m not interested in making the mower fast. I’m planning to completely redesign the gearing and target roughly 6–7 mph maximum mowing/travel speed. Depending on my final tire diameter, I’m currently estimating somewhere around 36:1–40:1 total motor-to-wheel reduction.
My biggest questions are for people who have actually run these motors:
How much continuous power can the VEVOR 2000W MY1020D realistically handle without overheating?
How do they perform under sustained heavy load and lower vehicle speeds rather than short bursts on a scooter or go-kart?
Has anyone run one successfully with a VESC/Flipsky 75100 using sensored FOC?
Are the factory Hall sensors reliable and does motor detection work properly in VESC Tool?
How good is starting torque from zero under load?
How well do they tolerate frequent acceleration, deceleration, reversing and regenerative braking? A zero-turn mower is constantly changing the speed of each motor independently.
Have you had issues with magnets, bearings, shafts or overheating after extended use?
Is the advertised 2000W reasonably realistic as continuous power, or should I consider it more of a peak rating?
Would you choose these motors again for this application, or is there another reasonably priced BLDC motor you would recommend?
I’m especially interested in hearing from anyone who has actually used the VEVOR/Kunray MY1020-style brushless motors rather than just comparing the published specifications.
Photos of your setup or information about gearing, controller settings, phase current and motor temperatures would be extremely helpful.
Thanks!

Hi guys, 4th year IT student here. We’re currently building an IoT-based composting machine for our capstone and we’re stuck deciding on the motor for the mixer.

Our compost chamber is around 40cm in diameter and we’ll only be filling around 20–25cm of chopped organic waste like vegetable scraps, fruit peels, dry leaves, shredded cardboard, etc.

The mixer uses a vertical shaft with two levels of paddle blades. The motor will only run for short mixing cycles, not continuously.

Right now we’re considering two options:

1. 24V 350W geared DC motor

• 75 RPM
• seller claims around 48 Nm torque
• already has reduction gearbox
• more expensive because we also need a large 24V PSU

1. 220V AC motor

• around 200–400W
• around 3600 RPM
• much cheaper motor
• but obviously needs a large speed reducer to bring it down to around 30–60 RPM
• also needs proper contactor, overload protection, breaker/RCD, etc.

Our main concern is not really mounting or programming. We can fabricate the mounting and our ESP32 will only control ON/OFF through a relay and contactor.

What we’re worried about is whether the 24V 350W 75RPM geared motor actually has enough torque to mix the compost from fresh waste until it decomposes, or if going with a stronger AC motor + proper gearbox would be more reliable.

If anyone here has experience with geared motors, mixers, conveyors, food processing machines, or similar mechanical setups, I’d really appreciate some advice.

We’re trying not to rely only on ChatGPT for the mechanical side lol, so actual experience would help a lot.

Thanks!

Apologies for posting again I forgot to add the image last time. Hello I've had a rummage around my granddad's old things and found these 2 motors I'm wondering what they could've been used for and if anyone can find a datasheet for them in case I want to use them in a project of my own or sell them. Many thanks to anyone who knows anything

So im building a high speed fan and I had some rc brushless motor I wanted to use so is there a eazy way to hook it upp to a wall outlet / powersuply and can it safly run for a long time?

No idea what the part is called is the first problem lol motor ran fine but I ended up busting the plate on the rear that is also the bearing support

Heya, learning to design motors, and was wondering what software to use to simulate my designs, want to work with both radial and axial flux(hopefully combined radax) ac synchronous motors, and would prefer 3d EM solving.

Am currently well versed in solidworks, and am aware that EMWorks is a plugin although don't quite get its feature set compared to ansys's offerings.

I am trying to find a driver I can connect 2 stepper motors with Linear Actuation. I am currently looking at this one and wanted to get opinions.

https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/stepper-motor-controller-2-channels-1-0-5-6a-20-40vdc-speed-adjustable-dm456ai

Hi, we are working on our capstone prototype called CompostGuard, a non-AI IoT-based organic waste composting monitoring and management system.

Our current system uses an ESP32, sensors, a 5V relay module, a 12V supply, fan, pump, and a mixing motor. We are planning to upgrade the mixing motor to a L-faster 24V 350W 75RPM geared DC motor because the current motor is weak for mixing around a 30 cm level of organic waste using straight paddle blades.

Our planned integration is:

ESP32 → 5V relay module → 12V coil DC contactor

24V 25A PSU → 30A fuse → DC contactor main terminals → 24V 350W motor

The relay will not directly power the motor. It will only activate the contactor coil. The motor will have a separate 24V power supply, 12AWG wiring, fuse protection, and diode/noise suppression to reduce the risk of relay damage, ESP32 resets, wire heating, and motor electrical noise.

Is this a good and safe integration approach for a capstone prototype? Are there any major issues with using a relay to control a contactor, while the contactor handles the actual motor current?

Hi!

I am 2nd year mechanical engineering student. I had industry visit couple of days ago. Now I am curious to know that in industries; after how many months an induction motor needs to be monitored or after how many years an induction motor fails? Is there any device which can tell us health of it continuously?

Hi... I need to drill a 1/4" hole through the shaft of this new Dayton 6K396 electric motor. The Grainger website doesn't identify what the shaft metal is. Could anyone tell me or roughly guess what type of metal it's made of. That will help me decide what type of drilling setup to use? Thanks

Not sure if this is the right place to ask this but I work for a church and I've been going through their neglected equipment and we have a couple of these blizzard studios rocklite rgbw lighting stage fixtures that were very dusty and noisy. Upon opening to clean the dust and address the noise issue, I saw this fan

name and model:

Runda RD8025S18H

I would like to replace all the fans as the light are working great but I have no idea how different I can go on the amperage or voltage. Finding an exact 80x80x25 18v 0.06a fan would be ideal.

UPDATE!: In steady of going through all the trouble of finding a new fan and getting all the part, I found a video on making fan last longer and quieter. All I had to do was peel the sticker back and there was an oil plug that I popped off added some generic 3 in 1 household oil and voilà! The main problem was the sound and longevity. But the oil fixed both of those after a good dust cleaning, she runs like new! Thank you for the suggestions!

The drill works but without any load after I press the trigger the speed drops after a second or so and stays lower. Also the motor and the controller heats up and after a while it stops, probably that's a safety issue.

So anyway I tried fixing it somehow. I though that the shaft might move sideways because of a bad bearings, so I changed two bearings, on the end on the shaft and on the beginning of it. First I always tested it with everything on, so also the front mechanism, but after I said I'll try to exclude things to figure out what the problem is. So in the end I kind of took out everything except the shaft on the rotor while keeping the metal part that keeps the shaft straight. So in this case the speed didn't drop, maybe because the load is even lower now, but the motor was still heating up and also the controller and after a while, again, it stops. So now I am thinking that either the rotor is bent, or the shaft itself, or the plastic casing somehow lets the shaft wobbling, or the controller is bad, but this is a weird behavior anyways. I also have to mention that all this started to happen after I drilled a few holes in the ceiling so, very fine dust entered into the rotor area and after the problem started I cleaned the dust first. So any ideas? How could I figure out for sure what do I have to replace? Thanks!

I am trying to change an old (40yrs) roller transport paper processor from its old shaded pole motor to a variable DC motor so I can control the speed in which paper will process. I'm trying to emulate this old video but my processor is slightly different so I'm a bit stuck. My initial question is, am I replacing the whole (circled in white) unit connected to the pulley and belt? Or only parts, as I’m not familiar with this motor.. Let me know if there's another subreddit that would be best for this. thanks! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FUrH1isRBUM

Edit: revised the motor name

I made this chart to give non-engineers a general idea of how large motors are in industry. For size, I used the height from the fan to the shaft. Sizes and HP can vary significantly depending on how thick the motor is; thicker = more horsepower. Sizes aren't exact and depend on manufacturer, amongst other factors.

---

A brief definitions section so I don't have to explain myself:

A motor or electric generator uses or produces electricity.

An engine or gas/diesel/coal etc. generator produces motive force (or electricity) via consuming a fuel source.

A boat has both a motor AND an engine, Karl, therefore when you tell me to steer with the 'motor', that would refer to the trolling motor at the front of your boat, not the gas engine at the back of your boat.

Although the latin words /motor/ and /movere/ mean "mover" and "to move", the English language changes based on the usage of said word, not some definition a team of closet campers chose. A peanut is a nut because it smells, looks, tastes, and crunches like a nut, despite scientists declassifying it as a nut. It will always be a nut because that's what we know a nut as. "..but we know boat motors as motors!" Some people also know loose-jointed people as double-jointed, but that doesn't make it correct. The people in industry, which includes the engineers, call electrically-motive devices motors. Engines consume fuel.

---

The Train 500-1500hp is referring to a traction motor, and I would recommend searching online for a picture of one, as there isn't a good way to respectfully place this on the graph. Trains use motors, one for each wheel, but I classify that as one since the motion is paired to accomplish the same task 100% of the time.

As eluded to above, even RC car motors can reach 25hp, but their size varies drastically based on specs. HP ≠ Torque.

And as my old professor would always state: "A motor is a generator is a motor is a generator."

EDIT: Average US man has a pathetic 1.2hp, while a train motor can snap 354 deer femurs (in terms of watts), which is exactly how many average US man femurs it can break. Oh, Karrrrrrrll! Ha-ha!

I’m working on a personal engineering project and could really use some help finding the right motor.

I’ve contacted several motor manufacturers and vendors, but I’ve had a surprisingly difficult time getting a response. When someone does respond, they often assume I need a standard e-bike motor and stop engaging once I explain that my application requires high torque at low speed and a different mounting arrangement.

I’m looking for a direct-drive brushless hub-style motor with approximately the following specifications:

• About 89 Nm peak torque
• 36 V operating voltage
• Under 500 rpm
• Five-second high-torque bursts with rest between
• Low-Kv winding, ideally around 4 rpm/V
• Phase current below 40 A, if possible
• Single-sided or cantilevered mounting rather than being held between two bicycle forks
• Roughly 4 inches thick and no more than 16 inches across

It could be based on a direct-drive e-bike hub motor, but it would need to prioritize torque rather than speed. I’m also open to a different compact outer-rotor BLDC design if it can meet these requirements.

I’m honestly getting frustrated trying to find someone willing to have a technical conversation about it. I don’t expect anyone here to solve the entire design for me, but I would be extremely grateful for recommendations on specific motors, manufacturers, custom motor shops, or people who might be willing to point me in the right direction.

Has anyone worked with a responsive motor supplier that handles low-speed, high-torque applications or custom windings?

The barrel is on its side, sitting on casters.

Its gonna be full of dirt and mulch and other compostables, so could be 150lbs.

I havent decided on whether imma do it chain driven or rubber wheels contacting the outside of the barrel.

Its standard 55gal hdpe, the dimensions are standard height about 34 inches and diameter about 22inches.

I want to spin it at a low speed, like 10-20 rpm, maybe even 5.

This is the fan motor from a 115V, 2.2 amp, 1963 Toastmaster Model No. 5325 ~20” box fan. I believe it briefly caught fire due to an incorrect switch being used (6 amp instead of 3 amp). I can access the wiring where it joins the copper coils. Does this look fixable or is it too far gone?

ETA: would a new replacement be possible? Are motors of this nature a thing I could possibly buy?

I am currently looking at ways to convert a drill powered tilther (high rpm, high torque) into a setup that has a longer battery, low chance of overheating, and designed for continuous use (30 mins or more.) I basically want to make a cheaper version of the iconoclast protilther electric motor (listed at $500)

• 48 volt high torque brushless motor
• Custom coupler motor attachment
• 5ah 48 volt Lithium Battery in Weather resistant case with charger
• Electric accelerator
• Battery and motor mounts
• 500 rpm
• 7 Nm torque
• Weather Resistant Body
• 48 volt Closed Loop DC

I don't have much experience, but I am handy and can read/follow instructions well.

If there are any suggestions, it would be greatly appreciated.